Table Saw Wiring (cord, plug, switching, not motor wiring)

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Old Delta machine.

is a picture of similar model. Motor is 3/4hp Westinghouse. Plate says 115V @ 10.2A or 230 @ 5.1A. I got it in pieces and it didn't come with any wires or an on/off switch.

Motor will run 230V so I think I could probably cheat down to 12 gauge. No clue what inrush is (not listed on motor plate). Is it called 12/3 extension cord wire (green, white, black = /3)? Should I bump up to 10ga? I need roughly 25 feet.

Where is best to get cables? Is by-the-foot at a big-box fine or should I buy an extension cord and clip the ends?

What do I want to do for a switch? I don't need a $100 magnetic switch but don't want a light switch. I'd like something with a key or pin I can pull for on/off lockout. Any suggestions?

Do I need to worry about 25 feet of SJOOW with 12/2 running 230v?

Thanks.

 

[sberry]

It will run 14, either voltage. 12 is way good. Any switch will work, unplug to lock it out. I run this stuff on 120v, can move it, can use it with a common cord. Mine is 1 hp,,, yours being 3/4 will run even easier.

 

[Bert_]

It draws 5.1 amps...

#16 cord won't cause issues at those distances.

Like sberry said it would be more practical on 120v. It will run on a standard circuit and #14 cord would cover it. If you're going 100'+ I might look at #12.

 

[Stuart in MN]

If it's set up for 120vac now, there's no particularly good reason to change it to 240vac. Buy the cord by the foot at the store, I'd look for #14 SO type - it has a heavy duty rubber insulation and stays flexible in cold weather.

 

[Norcal]

A switch should be rated for at least 3/4 HP for that motor, and 14 AWG will do quite well, too large of conductors are like trying to stuff 10 pounds of manure in a 5 pound bag.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

It will run 14, either voltage. 12 is way good. Any switch will work, unplug to lock it out. I run this stuff on 120v, can move it, can use it with a common cord. Mine is 1 hp,,, yours being 3/4 will run even easier.

Thanks. I'm trying to avoid 120 so I can put the table saw, radial saw and dust collector on same circuit. I guess if I run the cord across the floor I'll pick up some 12ga soow, if I end up running it up to the ceiling I'll get some 12ga sj.

sberry, do you have one of these old delta saws? I've never messed with one of these. Here's a good picture of a similar motor.

http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=17488

The one in the picture is a 1/2hp, frame 186. Mine is a frame D186 3/4hp. My motor is missing the metal toggle switch and there's two wires sticking out of that toggle switch box. Both show 0 ohms back to everything inside the motor's main wire box. Should I wire nut those together then run line in from wall to a 2-pole switch then directly into the motor's wire box?

What do I do with ground? Do I ground the TS metal stand/base as well as the outside of the motor housing?

Thanks.

edit: I have a similar motor from Delta machine of same vintage except it is made by Marathon and 1/2hp. The metal toggle switch is a stdp (single throw, dual pole) switch. It is wired for 115v. Green is attached to motor frame inside the switch box then line hot goes to black lead in motor switch box and line neutral goes to the green lead inside motor switch box.

I can't tell any difference in color on the two wires in the Westinghouse switch box. In the photo I linked above (vintage machinery) it looks like one is red and one is yellow. Can I just cap those two leads off individually and then run switched power into the motor wire box on the pulley side? Wired for 220 does it matter which leg I put on which line-in lead? Thanks.

 

[The Cobbler]

couple choices of switches here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPEFL2I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HWRVPRR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Norcal]

couple choices of switches here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPEFL2I/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HWRVPRR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

H
Just a bunch of ChiCom ****.

 

[The Cobbler]

yes, and they work for the most part .
what do you think comes on most tools now a days? not the most expensive, north american made product
sad I know, but it's reality

 

[Stuart in MN]

Thanks. I'm trying to avoid 120 so I can put the table saw, radial saw and dust collector on same circuit.

You won't be running both saws at the same time, but what's the amp rating on the dust collector? You may be able to run it and one saw on the same 120vac circuit.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

You all seem to really be pushing the 120V circuits. I have the circuits already wired so it doesn't much matter to me, just that if I go 120V I'll probably have to run a few more since these motors are so big I'd need dedicated circuits.

DC motor plate says 8A @ 230V. There is no 120V option, it's a JET 230v DC. Motor plate on the radial saw says 17A/8.5A. I think it needs new bearings (or something) because I can't use it on a 120V 20A circuit, it just trips breakers.

Radial saw plus DC at same time on 20A 230v would be close but probably fine if staggered start. TS is 5.1A at 230v so TS + DC would be fine. All three would be an issue but it's usually just me. Worst case if I have someone else over I could always cheat and plug something into the compressor or welder circuits.


Could someone put a set of eyes on these pictures please? First pic on left is how I got the motor. I assume that was correct for 115v per the motor plate. Second pic (with motor plate next to it) is wired for 230v per the motor plate. Did I do that correctly? Third pic is the two conductors sticking out of the motor's switch box. Am I going to break anything if I hook up one leg to each lead and switch it on? Does it matter which leg goes to which lead?

Thanks.

 

[sberry]

No foul if wired for 240, lots more breaker headroom that's for sure. If you have it wired already it's fine. Also can use lighter cord if you want.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

No foul if wired for 240, lots more breaker headroom that's for sure. If you have it wired already it's fine. Also can use lighter cord if you want.

Thanks. Does it matter which leg I attach to which wire in the motor's switch box? I can't tell which wire is supposed to be yellow and which should be red. I just don't want to make sparks or blow up the start cap.

It says on the motor plate "to reverse, interchange red and yellow leads". I don't know anything about cap start induction motors. There's a centrifugal switch inside one of the endbells. Does that mean that the cap is there to make a differential between the windings on start (I assume this is how the motor starts)?? So one of the leads must pass through the cap until the motor winds up and the centrifugal switch then balances out the legs? Does any of that have anything to do with the direction the motor spins?

I'm hesitant to put power to the motor (120 or 208) because when I got it everything was in pieces with no plugs, cords or switches.

Last night I bought 25ft of sjeoow, a powertec green/red switch and a 6-15P. $35 Prime was much cheaper than buying a decent extension cord and clipping the ends. It'll be here by 8pm tomorrow.