Table Saw

[mangorockfish]

Does anyone have any experience with HF's Chicago Electric 10" 13amp table saw that is on sale for $117? I was thinking about one and the wife told me to get the opinions of the garage journal guys. What about it guys, good, bad, indifferent? I'll be using it quite a bit. If its not so good now, would replacing the motor make good? Thanks

 

[turbowoodworker]

With the TS, as other tools, you get what you pay for. That is likely the cheapest thing on the market. Add ten bucks and you are ten bucks better off.
Your range is $117 to likely over $6000 with the majority in the $300, $700, $1400, $3000 price breaks. It all depends on your needs and devotion to the hobby (and safety). Just my opinion, but cheap tools with cheap guards and spinning blades add up to expensive medical bills.

 

[turbowoodworker]

BTW, use the search function. On any given day there are probably 3 active TS threads with more than a couple of opinions.

 

[shoot summ]

Around here(NE OK) there are really decent full size Craftsman table saws on Craigslist for $100-$175 all the time. That would be a much better option IMO. While the HF saw may be decent, I would bet the fence is a POS...

 

[bczygan]

http://memphis.craigslist.org/tls/5907938701.html

 

[TomB19]

While the HF saw may be decent, I would bet the fence is a POS...

Agreed but it will depend on what he is doing with it.

For furniture... no.

For construction, probably a workable saw.

 

[Shootinok]

I'm going to agree with the previous posts.
An old craftsman can be had for that price and is a great saw.

 

[wildbill23c]

My HF table saw died with very little use. Bearings in the motor failed. I now have a Skil Table Saw which was on sale for $200 around Christmas time. Still a portable saw but came with a nice stand.

I have a Ridgid Contractor's 10" belt driven table saw and it works great and if I recall was about $550 and I've had it for over 10 years now and it still works great.

You can find some good deals on Craigslist as others have mentioned. I'd just avoid those HF saws if you can. I'm not saying they are total garbage but with the very light seldom use mine had and it failed so quickly I'd take that money and put it towards at least the Skil brand portable table saw.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Razor sharp spinning blade, cheap construction equals questionable outcome. Years ago I had a harbor freight chop saw shatter, the arm separated from the base. Luckily the chain was attached to the base, which prevented me from being hurt. Since then, any tool that cuts or spins fast is a name brand. One trip to the hospital will be multiples more than the temporary savings of a cheap tool. If we are talking hand tools then different story. But if the tool spins fast and can hurt you quick, better to save for a better tool.

 

[JRC3]

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...4451081219-c-9082.htm?tid=1013414471789428215

I'd rather have this for $100. That is if you have a Menards. If not check shipping cost.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I recently picked up a Ridgid jobsite table saw for $199 on sale at HD. I made a rolling stand for it. Decent saw for the money, it's the R4516 I believe.

The HF saw would probably be ok for rough ripping of construction lumber. I would avoid it if you plan to do any precision woodworking.

 

[Marctrees]

By far best bang for buck for accurate work - 1970's+ Craftsman cast iron table and extensions w remote motor.

Usually $150- 250 Craigslist.

Next upgrade if wanted - Biesemeyer fence.

Further upgrade, With 52" extension if you do any sheet work.

You CAN get as accurate without it, but you have to perfectly re align (check and jiggle parralelness) your stock fence every time you reset it. Marc

 

[tonyx]

I just went through this myself. The answer depends on what you're trying to do with your saw. Like it was said, no furniture making with the plastic body table saws; you just don't have the accuracy and repeatability.

And if you are looking to rip 4x8 sheet or the length of 2x4 stud into two halfs - no go.

However if you need to have on site a saw that can trim smaller pieces into semi-precise parts then a cast iron table saw that sits in your workshop is far less desirable than the plastic bodied portable table saws.

Barring the need for portability, I too would recommend looking for cast iron craftsman table saw for around $100 on CL. First thing is to check or upgrade the blade and drive belt(link belt recommended). Then replace the pulleys if they don't run true. You'll get better cut and lower vibration.

Then check the blade arbor run out and sand out the high spots. Then square and parallel the miter slots and blade vertical angles.

 

[rlitman]

I just went through this myself. The answer depends on what you're trying to do with your saw. Like it was said, no furniture making with the plastic body table saws; you just don't have the accuracy and repeatability.

And if you are looking to rip 4x8 sheet or the length of 2x4 stud into two halfs - no go.

However if you need to have on site a saw that can trim smaller pieces into semi-precise parts then a cast iron table saw that sits in your workshop is far less desirable than the plastic bodied portable table saws.

Barring the need for portability, I too would recommend looking for cast iron craftsman table saw for around $100 on CL. First thing is to check or upgrade the blade and drive belt(link belt recommended). Then replace the pulleys if they don't run true. You'll get better cut and lower vibration.

Then check the blade arbor run out and sand out the high spots. Then square and parallel the miter slots and blade vertical angles.

All good advice.

Just a comment on the link belt. A link belt is a good upgrade for a fractional (sub 1hp) table saw, such as the venerable cast iron Craftsman. And for those who weren't aware, Harbor Freight carries quality USA made link belts.

But link belts will be eaten up quickly by motors above 1hp, and would be a disaster in cabinet saws that run multiple parallel V belts. In my 3hp cabinet saw, I upgraded from standard V belts to cogged (X series) V belts. You get a similar reduction in vibration from that switch.