Table saw

[RAS61]

In my 40+ years as a professional woodworker I have never used a splitter, riving knife or blade guard.

Ditto - I find blade guards more dangerous. If this is an issue just pay up for a Sawstop

 

[850xpeps]

Ditto - I find blade guards more dangerous. If this is an issue just pay up for a Sawstop

Ya I don’t like them either. They can be dangerous in my mind. Maybe good for someone not so confident.

 

[Unruh]

I have the Delta 36-725? from Lowes. It's in between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Much larger table area, heavy, yet able to be moved around the garage with the mobile base. I have built a router table into one side as well as a storage box in the other side.

What are your plans for the saw? Will it ever leave the garage/shop or do you want it to be mobile and go from site to site?

I have this saw as well, just got it. I couldn’t be happier. I had a Ryobi RTS21G from Home Depot, and found it too small and light. I also had a Makita 2705, that was a good saw, but nothing compared to the Delta. The Delta is smooth and powerful. I feel much safer cutting larger lumber. I also found jigs like table saw sled and tenoning jigs worked so much better. The only difference I found to the next higher priced Delta is the cast iron base table. The rest is the same. Great saw.

 

[RAYJAY]

Everyone I know has a DW745 and is in love with it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I will likely buy one as well in the near future.

i bought the DEWALT DWE7491RS best table saw i ever used cuts like butter
and 32-1/2 inch Rip capacity also


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F2CGXGG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[850xpeps]

https://www.mississaugahardware.com/product/bosch-4100-09-table-saw


Can’t beat the Bosch table saw.

 

[derosa]

I think we're talking apples and oranges with contractor saws, and giving too much credit to hybrid saws. Your Hitachi is probably a direct drive table top model. My Delta 2000 Series Contractor saw has a 1 1/2 hp belt drive motor (same hp as hybrid saws), can use a dado no problem, runs smooth as silk, can cut thick hardwoods (just a little slower than cabinet saws, and the same as hybrids, but how often does this really happen, and what's the rush?), and with my upgraded fence is a joy to use. Would I trade it in on a quality cabinet saw(?) - in a minute, provided I had the cash and room for it. But I wouldn't bother with the more expensive and not significantly better hybrid saw - better to spend a couple hundred more for the saw you really want, and will eventually buy, than this no better middle of the road compromise.

Again, a really good contractor saw is 90% of a cabinet saw, and the equal of a hybrid saw with cash in your pocket - my 2 cents.

Looking back at my post I wasn't clear enough, I chucked the contractor saw once it stopped smoking for the Hitachi. I'd agree that at the upper end there isn't a lot of difference between a hybrid and a contractor saw but then there isn't much price difference either. Nor are the bigger ones like the delta 2000 all that portable vs something like the dewalt with its folding support stand that lets you roll it away. Though having spent time in a professional cabinet maker's shop I think you're underestimating the difference between a higher level contractor/hybrid saw and a true cabinet saw.
I don't recall the OP's intended uses, personally I've sliced through plenty of 2" thick purpleheart, maple, cherry, oak, apple, padauk and others and I'm just a hobbiest. I'm starting a new coffee table this week that will be using probably only 1.5" wood but once its done I start the dining room table, last one of those I did required cutting through 2" thick oak at a 45* bevel to get the figure on all sides of the leg. A decent saw shouldn't have too much trouble but in many ways a hobbiest who plays around might run some more difficult wood through, then bigger does help.

 

[derosa]

Ditto - I find blade guards more dangerous. If this is an issue just pay up for a Sawstop

I tried the blade guard on mine and it just seemed to get in the way, the riving knife I found especially useful when I needed to rip about 50 2x4 to space old walls out for installing r19. Modern 2x4s **** and seem very prone to twisting and warping and the riving knife helps to keep the blade from getting pinched and jamming. Very rare I've had a hardwood board do that as you can often see a twisted board ahead of time and just don't buy it.

 

[Jimithing616]

I think we're talking apples and oranges with contractor saws, and giving too much credit to hybrid saws. Your Hitachi is probably a direct drive table top model. My Delta 2000 Series Contractor saw has a 1 1/2 hp belt drive motor (same hp as hybrid saws), can use a dado no problem, runs smooth as silk, can cut thick hardwoods (just a little slower than cabinet saws, and the same as hybrids, but how often does this really happen, and what's the rush?), and with my upgraded fence is a joy to use. Would I trade it in on a quality cabinet saw(?) - in a minute, provided I had the cash and room for it. But I wouldn't bother with the more expensive and not significantly better hybrid saw - better to spend a couple hundred more for the saw you really want, and will eventually buy, than this no better middle of the road compromise.

Again, a really good contractor saw is 90% of a cabinet saw, and the equal of a hybrid saw with cash in your pocket - my 2 cents.

While I agree no one should trade a contractor saw for a hybrid... when just starting out, if given the choice of contractor or hybrid for a similar price or even a little more, it’s WELL worth it... you might have got lucky with your delta, but after owning nearly 10 contractor saws. I can tell you squaring the blade and trunnion to the table on a hybrid vs a contractor is worth the upgrade without the consideration of dust collection....

On at least 3 of my contractor saws the trunnions bolt holes didn’t have enough play to adequately square the blade up to the miter slots... so at that point you either tear down the saw and ream out the holes or buy the PALS kit... which is a pain to install... no thanks....

In my opinion you cannot underestimate having the motor and trunnion mounted to the cabinet as opposed to the bottom of the table...

I also owned a delta 2000 and while it was perfect in ALMOST every regard, it did require reaming out the holes in the trunnion to get it aligned perfectly... however, I am **** and I do require perfection in my work, if your not that **** or aren’t building small boxes or other furniture that requires it like mitered cabinets and such... then it’s likely a non issue! Oh, and the dust collection was abysmal, it had a sloped tray on the bottom of the saw as it’s dust collection... great idea delta

I agree with most of what you said though... if you can find a good deal on a contractor saw on Craigslist with a great fence... especially a 2000 series delta with a real beisemeyer and extension tables for like $500 which is what I paid for mine... you probably can’t beat it... the new delta from lowes definitely doesn’t beat it, even though it has a riving knife, I’ve read way too many issues about the two piece front fence rail and other issues with runout I believe to go for that saw....

To the OP, you could find a lot of info on this subject on other forums specific to woodworking too if you haven’t looked... on those forums there are like 12 reviews for every popular table saw out there should you narrow it down to a few choices....

Everyone here had great info though... great opinions. But, you’ll need to decide which of those opinions fits your style of work and go with that.

Deciding which of the pros/cons pertaining to fence, dust collection, riving knife, blade stop safety, high accuracy, etc etc etc matters MOST to you and then let us know and we could likely help narrow down which saw is best for YOU

 

[RAYJAY]

I think DW745 has 20 ich but it is quite durable

the DEWALT DWE7491RS has 32 1/2 inch rip

 

[Jimithing616]

See the sloped tray.... that’s what they called dust collection haha .... still, a good saw in a lot of ways though... mine had a killer full size beisemeyer fence as I mentioned and after 15 saws it’s still my favorite fence hands down....

 

[Rarified27]

i bought the DEWALT DWE7491RS best table saw i ever used cuts like butter
and 32-1/2 inch Rip capacity also


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F2CGXGG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

For almost double the price I would hope so!

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[bubinga]

Ask and you shall receive grasshopper...

Starting in 1939 the unisaw models have been a benchmark in the woodworking cabinet saws, so much so that the Chinese copy them 24/7.

The newer saws starting in 2009 have a larger 31" x 40" cast iron table top including cast iron wings; making it easier to cut long pieces of wood.

Standard biesemeyer fence system, (The gold standard of modern fence systems).

Single cast one piece trunion system.

Dual front cranks make it a easy to adjust the blade height.

Dust collection system options.

You can buy and find parts on these saws 24/7.

Simple put you can not go wrong buying a used working model.

Yes, l have the"10 year anniversary" Uni-Saw.......................a 1947
No, just double checked two years newer, ......LOL
Had the "jet-Loc fence, took that off, up-graded to a Beismier fence.
got the fence when Lows was blowing them out for $80.00, about 12 years ago.
You'd be happy with one of those saws.

 

[woody 73]

Any used Delta unisaw goes very fast on my local CL.

One of the GJ members was telling how great the contractor type saws are; I find the only drawback is how to collect all that flying sawdust, sure it can be done but if you have an enclosed cabinet it makes it a joy to collect all that dust.

One other thing I don't think was ever talked about (or maybe it was and I missed it), but you can buy a mobile base kit on wheels and move the saw all over your shop; just not able to move it from floor to floor upstairs or downstairs.

So op did we answer all your questions?????

 

[BeachBoy]

Thanks for all the inputs, likely useful for other members too!

I see two types of guides.

One is the "square" type Biesmeyer
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-outils-electriques/levis/banc-de-scie-delta-10/1324113984

The other is called unifence like this one
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-autres-outils/longueuil-rive-sud/banc-de-scie-delta/1298231934

Any comments on those?

Also, most are right tilt and I found one left-tilt (the one with the Biesmeyer fence above), internet seems to have heated discussions on that. I don't think it matters that much as it would not be a day to day tool.

Finally, some are branded Delta x5 which seems never but google seems to have debates if they are cheaper or not...

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

 

[My Old Tools]

A do like the safety of the Sawstop but a few things I like better about the current Delta Cabinet saw (3HP or 5HP) over the others:
- More table in front of the blade
- Blade height and bevel adjustment both on front of cabinet saw
- Mass - The Delta is a beast ...much heavier than others

PM 66 out weighs the Unisaw by a considerable margin. A rivng knife is nice but a simple splitter is just as good for ripping. You can add one to the throat plate easily. The only things you can't do with it are tilt and dado. And while those hybrids are fine for casual use, there are good reasons you don't see them in cabinet shops.

 

[sr71]

PM 66 out weighs the Unisaw by a considerable margin. A rivng knife is nice but a simple splitter is just as good for ripping. You can add one to the throat plate easily. The only things you can't do with it are tilt and dado. And while those hybrids are fine for casual use, there are good reasons you don't see them in cabinet shops.

hmmm....what does the PM66 weight? Unisaw is approx 600lbs.

 

[My Old Tools]

Unisaw is around 300#.

No. 1448-10" Tilting Arbor Unisaw for 25 and 50 cycle service with Micro-Set RipFence and Guide Bars, 10" Combination Blade, Auto·Set Miter Gage, Motor Pulley, 3-V-Belts, without Guard, Splitter, Motor or Switch, 290 lbs.
No. 1450-10" Tilting Arbor Unisaw for 60 cycle service with Micro-Set Rip-Fence and Guide Bars, 10" Combination Blade, Auto-Set Miter Gage, Motor Pulley, 3-V·Belts, without Guard, Splitter, Motor or Switch, 290 lbs.

PM66 is closer to 600#.

Specifications

Model number........................................................................................................................................66 Maximum motor size.........................................................................................................5HP, 3600 RPM Table size with standard extensions (L x W)(in.)....................................................................... 37-1/2 x 28 Table size without extension (L x W)(in.).................................................................................. 21-1/2 x 28 Rip fence (L x W x H)(in.)................................................................................................41-3/4 x 4 x 2-1/2 Arbor diameter (in.)...............................................................................................................................5/8 Saw blade diameter (in.)........................................................................................................................10 Maximum speed of 10” saw blade (SFM) ........................................................................................ 11,000 Blade tilt maximum (deg.) ......................................................................................................................45 Maximum depth of cut (in.).......................................................... 3-1/8 at 90-degrees; 2-1/8 at 45-degrees Maximum cut to right of saw blade with standard extension (in.).............................................................25 Maximum width of cutoff in front of saw in 1” stock (in.)..........................................................................15 Maximum width of cutoff in front of saw in 3-1/8” stock (in.)..............................................................12-1/4 Maximum diameter of dado (in.)...............................................................................................................8 Maximum width of dado cut (in.)........................................................................................................13/16 Drive belts ....................................................................................................................3VX (two required) Table height to floor (in.)........................................................................................................................34 Dust port diameter (in.)............................................................................................................................4 Shipping weight with motor, fence and rails (lbs.).................................................................................614

 

[woody 73]

I never talked about a PM saw because the OP asked about the Delta saw; I own a 66 model and love it but a delta unisaw is also a top notch model.

Beach boy find a local wood working brick and mortar store near you area, or as close as possible and stop in, they would be more then happy to show you all the different fence set-ups and answer all your questions.

But keep in mind the better units will set you back some coin, making your used saw even more expensive, but well worth the cost.

 

[JMLangford]

......Also, most are right tilt and I found one left-tilt (the one with the Biesmeyer fence above), internet seems to have heated discussions on that. I don't think it matters that much as it would not be a day to day tool....

The discussions are, that if you have a right hand tilt saw, and you do angle cuts on it, you're risking a kickback because the material is captured between the blade and the fence.....easy enough fix.....I just simply remove my fence from the right side of the blade to the left side! (makes it a moot point)

Don't know why they make such a fuss....


.

 

[sr71]

Delta 3HP Cabinet saw "Unisaw" is 624lbs

http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/table-saws/36-L336-unisaw

 

[ez-duzit]

Unisaw is around 300#...
PM66 is closer to 600#...

Would you be intentionally trying to mislead? Unisaw is over 600 lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YQDKM8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[My Old Tools]

That's a new Model made in Asia. Might as well buy the Grizzly. The data I posted is for the original USA made Unisaw as it was made from 1939 until 200x or so. The data is from the manufacturers catalog. Worst case SHIPPING weight from the 1991 catalog is 469#.

 

[derosa]

The discussions are, that if you have a right hand tilt saw, and you do angle cuts on it, you're risking a kickback because the material is captured between the blade and the fence.....easy enough fix.....I just simply remove my fence from the right side of the blade to the left side! (makes it a moot point)

Don't know why they make such a fuss....


.

I find its actually a comfort thing, being right handed I can stand slightly off to the side and see how the piece is sliding against the fence if it is trying to move, while I don't stand as naturally offside when the fence is on the left side. I've had to make a number of cuts with the fence there but it isn't as natural to me; my left hand uses the push stick while the right is keeping the board steady and it is awkward. To a lefty or someone who is ambidextrous it probably makes no difference. My saw came with an equal length rail to either side of the blade and I'm completely self taught so this is based on natural feel for me and not learned behaviour.

 

[wood02]

When I ordered my PM66, I ordered the "left" tilt blade.

 

[My Old Tools]

PM 66 has always been left tilt, at least the original USA made one was.

 

[Hytekrednek]

the Delta 3hp unisaw i have, from the mid 90's, has been as reliable as the sun rising. I got it used but in excellent condition. I have trued it up and used the snot out of it. Best $800 I ever spent in the shop. It has the 52'' uni-fence which is very useful and well made. A new "and expensive" saw stop table saw would be a sweet buy too if you can afford it.
I have worked on Powermatic saw for years in the past and they are excellent too, but I prefer the unisaw.

 

[Hytekrednek]

This...






Start with the PM66...get stuff as you can, extended table, crosscut rig, outfeed table.

Buy a good blade...no ****.

Put a safety stop paddle switch on it.

Nice setup! Can you tell me more about the mobile base you have. My delta mobile base only rolls 1 direction easily. I wish it had swivel casters like yours. Sweet outfeed table too. Who made it?

 

[buildyourown]

The only advantages to a contractor saw are price, and portability. If you never have to move it, spend a couple hundred more and get a real saw. Contractor saws are for ripping construction materials. Cabinet saws are for woodworking.

I have a very old Unisaw. Its on a pallet and I tuck it in the corner with the pallet jack when not in use. This also means I can take it outside and keep my shop cleaner when doing a big job. I lack dust collection. Works great.

I too dont use blade guard much unless cutting aluminum. I would recommend the splitter from Microjig. Cheapish and never gets in the way

 

[StreetRage320]

I inherited my father's 10" cast iron Grizzly 3hp table saw 18 years ago. I love it's power, accuracy and durability. The challenge is moving it. Even with the shop fox portable base, moving it up a ramp is very tough. Therefore, I also purchased a DW745 a few years ago for work that is done outside of my garage. Both are solid, but my Grizzly will outwork any portable saw in feet per minute.

 

[tarmy]

Nice setup! Can you tell me more about the mobile base you have. My delta mobile base only rolls 1 direction easily. I wish it had swivel casters like yours. Sweet outfeed table too. Who made it?

I took the cheap version they sell with it...and welded up a beefy frame of angle iron around it...and framed to attach the castors to. Very heavy and stable. The castors are about 800 lbs capacity each...no flat...about 50 each on Amazon. Do not get **** castors...good ones will roll smooth and are greasable. Get the largest diameter you can fit...these are 5" x2".

The out feed is from tool crib...no sticker..was about 300 about 10 years ago. The crosscut is Excalibur...

 

[bubinga]

Watching.

Sent from my G80 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[seber]

There are many options when looking at Unisaws and depending on floorspace/ power available older saws likely wont have the beismier fence and the fence is worth as much as the saw if you buy one without it and want to upgrade also many unisaws are 3 phase so check what you are buying unless you have 3 phase power . There are also 3 and 5 hp options, and 30 or 52 inch fences and also outfeed tables depending on what you need and have space for. I find the mobile base to be very useful on mine

I've owned saws with both the Beismeyer and the Unifence. In my opinion the Unifence is a far better system. Both types are very rigid and accurate but the Unifence adjusts far more easily. The Beisemeyer requires moving the fence, locking it and then moving it again. This is due to the sloppy fit on the guide rail. It can be made tight but then it becomes difficult to move. The Unifence literally glides on the rail. Where it stops it is where it will lock.