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Tablesaw coving technique

MarkG

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May 23, 2012
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Elgin, IL
Any of you woodworkers----I've read about (and maybe even tried once years ago) a technique involving clamping an angle fence across the saw blade and taking very small bites feeding the stock across at an angle to create a 'cove', raising the blade a bit between each pass.

I want to try this in HDPE for a job coming up and wondered how it machines in comparison to wood? My first thought is that it should cut like butter, so hopefully, I can create the coves I need using this technique! I know you can't take very big bites and know this isn't ideal, but I don't have a shaper and am not about to job this out.

Thanks!
 
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gasgas17

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Nov 7, 2009
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Nova Scotia, Canada
I have done it with wood a few times, but no HPDE. I would recommend using a finger board or 2 to ensure its not moving around on you. As well as a blade lubricant to help prevent the plastic from sticking to the blade. How thick is the stock your using?
 

readhead

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Durango, Co.
I have done it to make wood gutters on a restoration project. Took a few times to get it right but worked pretty well. I used a rip blade to hog out material and finished with a fine blade. A little sanding and was all done.
 

Toolfool

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Done it many times with wood and MDF. Best way is to clamp 2 parallel fences that you can run your material between. I would imagine the HDPE would gum up the blade pretty quickly at table saw RPM's.
 

galute

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Jun 28, 2010
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Bald Knob AR
I don't know what coving is? But I can help with the lube. We cut HDPE a lot with chain saws and just fill the oiler with dishwashing liquid. Works great and no gumming up.
 

kkroger

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Apr 21, 2013
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Done it when I was a Sophomore in High School on a Rockwell Tablesaw took 3 passes to get the depth I wanted. Featherboard and Paddles!
 

McFarmer

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Aug 29, 2009
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I tilt the blade to get a different profile. Tilt towards the work of course.

Use different diameter blades, 8 inch blade will make a small radius curve.

Use a board in either side of the work, make a push block that fits nicely between them and a cleat in the back you can push right through the cut.

Never done anything but solid wood.
 

Divcod

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Pacific Northwest
Used a dado set up to duplicate siding on a 80 year old chicken coup. Actually went full depth on one pass and would think plastic would be about the same. Depth of cut maybe a function of the saw horse power, good luck.
 
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bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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Jersey
I think your thinking correctly.

I've machined a lot of it, I've table sawed it to size, but don't really remember it being anything to remember. It was a long time ago.

Usually static cling is worse on plastic than it gumming up. The chips cling to everything.
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
I tilt the blade to get a different profile. Tilt towards the work of course.

Use different diameter blades, 8 inch blade will make a small radius curve.

Use a board in either side of the work, make a push block that fits nicely between them and a cleat in the back you can push right through the cut.

Never done anything but solid wood.

Angling the fence will also yield a smaller radius, though it isn't really a radius since it isn't constant.
 

whateg01

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doo dah, kansas, usa
The only real concern I have about this is that it can be difficult to "get a grip" on HDPE. So, make sure you are using push sticks and fingerboards. And be prepared for it to slip if you don't have a good hold on it.
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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Dorset. England.
The only real concern I have about this is that it can be difficult to "get a grip" on HDPE. So, make sure you are using push sticks and fingerboards. And be prepared for it to slip if you don't have a good hold on it.

I think I would be making the angle fixture so the work piece can only move forward or backward and then just push it though with a stick
 
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