Tablesaw storage help

[cyberdyke]

Hi,

This is my first post to this great site. I've been lurking for awhile and find the information most helpful.

I want to get a new tablesaw - a nice commercial one. But the only place I have to keep it is the garage. Which is unheated, uninsulated and very damp, that comes from living in Oregon.

Question: Is there a way I can "enclose" the saw in something to keep the damp away from it while it lives in the garage? I joked with a friend about putting it in one of those "space bags" you know the ones where you hook up the vacuum to it and **** out the air?

thanks!

 

[Mandres]

vacuum sealing actually works really well for things like that, but of course the saw's not doing you much good if you can't get to it and use it.

I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you keep a coat of paste wax or something similar on the cast iron then it won't rust. If it does all it takes is a little scotch brite scrubbing to bring it back to good.

 

[brownbagg]

just do it like everybody else, park it in the center of your garage and pile alot of **** on top of it

 

[bad_idea]

just do it like everybody else, park it in the center of your garage and pile alot of **** on top of it

I prefer to put mine on a shelf. Use a winch to raise and lower it. Setup takes 10 minutes or so. Do more metal fab than wood, so the setup time inconvenience isn't too bad.

 

[240sxguy]

There are a lot of products such as boeshield that you can use. My garage is partially underground and gets ridiculously humid sometimes where the concrete floor sweats and my unisaw isn't getting rusty.

 

[kbs2244]

I think the only thing you have to worry about is the table itself.
Everything else is pretty basic machine design and use.
If the top gets rusty it is hard to slide the wood across them.

Mine is on 4 way swivel castors so I can put it away tightly.
I don’t use it a lot, so I find myself spraying some WD40 before use to clean up any rust, and the doing it again after using to prevent any rust.

But, even parked back in a hole of it’s own, the tabletop seem to collect all kinds of stuff.

 

[jlckmj]

I have the same situation right now.

You need to put some good car wax (carnuba sp?) on the top, use a couple of coats. That will keep the most moisture from getting to the cast iron, plus it will not contaminate the wood you cut, in fact, it makes it slide much easier.

PLUS, I made a cover for the saw, I cut a piece of plywood the size of the saw top, then I wrapped that in a plastic table cloth. Between the cover and the wax, you will not have a problem unless you have a son like mine that leaves it uncovered with a wet rag on top.

Even if you do have a son like that, it is not the end of the wold, just take your DA sander and sand the whole top in progressively smaller grit until you get the sheen you like. Then wax it again and if you have a kid like mine, warn him about the chances of loosing a life or limb if he does it again.

Jim

 

[bhalv]

as long as you keep you top properly waxed you shouldn't have any problems.

 

[porphyre]

You need to put some good car wax (carnuba sp?) on the top, use a couple of coats. That will keep the most moisture from getting to the cast iron, plus it will not contaminate the wood you cut, in fact, it makes it slide much easier.

Jim

Absolutely wrong. Most car waxes contain silicone which absolutely does contaminate the wood and will cause problems when applying finish to your project. Never, ever, use automotive polishes on your woodworking cast iron (band saw, jointer, scroll saw, drill press, etc etc etc)

Use Johnson's Paste Wax. It's 100% silicone free. Found in the cleaning section @ HD w/ the floor waxes, probably same place at Lowes also. And it's cheap - less than $10 for a big tin of it.

 

[DYNA BILL]

As someone already said, spray it down with WD-40. For extra protection, you may want to wrap it in plastic and duct tape the heck out of it.

 

[kruzin]

Do not wrap it in plastic. Best bet is to leave it open so it can breath. Wrapping in plastic will trap condensation and cause rust for sure. Other option is to find a breathable cover such as a motorcycle cover or such.

 

[bhalv]

As someone already said, spray it down with WD-40. For extra protection, you may want to wrap it in plastic and duct tape the heck out of it.

Do not wrap it in plastic. Best bet is to leave it open so it can breath. Wrapping in plastic will trap condensation and cause rust for sure. Other option is to find a breathable cover such as a motorcycle cover or such.

Holy conflicting opinions batman!

 

[gahrajmahal]

To keep welding rods dry at my old job we re-purposed an old refrigerator by putting a ceramic lamp socket inside with a long cord. We then put in a 60 watt bulb and left it on continuously. It worked well here in the humid Ohio summers. You could duplicate the fridge by building an insulated box with caulked corners. Put a nice gasketed door on it so it would be easy to get out when you wanted to put it to work. Oh, and do all that wax stuff the other folks mentioned too.

 

[cyberdyke]

WOW!
Can I just say what great information! Thanks so much for all of your help!

 

[rieferman]

+1 on Johnson's Paste Wax as noted above. Any woodworking site you visit will give you this advice. I wouldn't cover it as it will trap moisture. If you apply the wax before rust ever occurs, and keep it waxed every couple months, you should not have an issue (I know I don't).

 

[DYNA BILL]

As someone already said, spray it down with WD-40. For extra protection, you may want to wrap it in plastic and duct tape the heck out of it.

Do not wrap it in plastic. Best bet is to leave it open so it can breath. Wrapping in plastic will trap condensation and cause rust for sure. Other option is to find a breathable cover such as a motorcycle cover or such.

Yeah, have to admit that I wasn't real sure about the plastic thing. I just thought the WD40 would keep it from rusting and the plastic would keep dirt and dust off it. Didn't think about condensation, but doesn't WD40 displace moisture?

 

[Falcon67]

Yeah, have to admit that I wasn't real sure about the plastic thing. I just thought the WD40 would keep it from rusting and the plastic would keep dirt and dust off it. Didn't think about condensation, but doesn't WD40 displace moisture?

Yes it does displace moisture but WD-40 is a solvent, not a rust protector. It cuts that chinese grease right off those Harbor Freight machines. And will remove the surface protection on the table saw. Johnsons paste wax is the way to go.

I have one of the semi-portable Craftsman table saws. In the old shop, I just built a cantilevered bench on the wall that was a little bigger than the saw in width and depth and set high enough to clear the table. Removed and stored the fence and guide, then slid the saw under the bench. **** collects on the bench, not the saw.

 

[DYNA BILL]

Yes it does displace moisture but WD-40 is a solvent, not a rust protector. It cuts that chinese grease right off those Harbor Freight machines. And will remove the surface protection on the table saw. Johnsons paste wax is the way to go.

I have one of the semi-portable Craftsman table saws. In the old shop, I just built a cantilevered bench on the wall that was a little bigger than the saw in width and depth and set high enough to clear the table. Removed and stored the fence and guide, then slid the saw under the bench. **** collects on the bench, not the saw.

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[On1Wheel]

Just a thought, but couldn't you put an opened bag of kitty litter in there when you wrap it in plastic? That should absorb what little moisture it will collect, assuming you will use it at least a couple times a year. That, combined with proper waxing, and you should be good, I'd think.

 

[cglasgow]

I prefer to put mine on a shelf. Use a winch to raise and lower it. Setup takes 10 minutes or so. Do more metal fab than wood, so the setup time inconvenience isn't too bad.

Not to derail the thread, but mind posting a picture of that winch setup? I've got a saw that I'd love to get out of my way!

 

[rlitman]

The point about automotive wax is very true. Silicones in them will affect a finish applied to wood, and are known to transfer to wood.

But here's two points of my own.
1) why are you so worried about rust? A couple of drops of oil sprayed on the rust, and rub the surface down with steel wool at the first sign of orange. The table will eventually turn an even brown (like an old shotgun), and will not pit. You can even accelerate this yourself. Look up "browning"

2) If you're that nuts about not having rust on your tablesaw, and you're buying a commercial saw, just get one with a granite table. Well, that was easy, wasn't it.

 

[rsanter]

Buy one of the newer table saws with the granite top
Steel city makes them and then also labels them rigid or cman
Granite don't rust....

Bob

 

[jlckmj]

I stand corrected!

PERPHYRE is correct about the cheaper car waxes. That is why I mentioned the carnuba (sp?) car wax, because it does not contain silicone, it is pure wax, i forgot to mention that part. Sorry.

I do feel that placing the 1/4 in plywood, or cardboard on the table with a plastic table cloth, (the type with the cloth backing does help keep moisture off the top

Jim

 

[bww_mnm]

Not all tops are created equal, so get a good quality saw. I had the 3HP/220V/1p Griz and I had to clean up / shine up every once in a while, but no issues keeping in my MN garage. I used topcoat. Same is true for my DeWALT planer and Jet BS. My Ridgid planer though ... one day after I clean it, it's starts to get a coat of rust. And, i'm lazy with it, so i'm sure it'll start pitting one of these days.

good luck.

 

[Slupie]

Like someone else said Johnsons Paste Floor wax. Do not use car waxes or WD-40, it will be absorbed by the wood and you will have blotches and other finising issues.

Between uses I put a sheet of cardboard on top of the saw and that keeps the moisture of my PM66

Pew pics of the mobile base that I welded for my PM 66

 

[Burl]

+1 on the pastewax, not bottled wax, and throw an old shower curtain over it to protect it from any water spills. I used to store mine between the car bays of my under-house garage, wife used to set groceries, flower pots, etc. on it, not knowing that a few drops of water can do a lot of damage.

 

[Shadowdog500]

+1 on the Johnson's paste wax. Go to a hardware store and get a tub for around $6 or $7.

It is my understanding that WD-40 and other types of waxes can cause problems when you go to finish the wood.

I picked up a slightly rusty Shop smith Mark5 from a friend earlier this year. I did a little research on woodworking forums on cleaning the surfase rust off of the Jointer and table saw surfaces. The best recommendation I could find was to put a green scotch brite pad on the table, Pour some mineral spirits on the pad, then set your jitterbug sander on the pad and start moving it around. Both tables looked beautiful and rust free in a few minutes. Wipe with acetone followed by a coat of Johnson floor wax when done.

Last weekend I cleaned the rust off of the tube on my old chinese drill press using schotchbrite and mineral spirits. I bead blasted the table because I ran out of schotchbrite.
It got so rusty that I had trouble moving the table. A coat of way was applied to everything when done.
Chris

 

[Jackfre]

I have a 1948, same vintage as me, Delta Unisaw. I have over the years re-built it with new motor, arbor and modern electricals, fence, dust collection, etc. I like this saw. Over the years I've used Boeshield, Top-Cote and paste wax. Once when I was having to store the saw for a couple years I painted the top and took an angle grinder to it to remove. Mine was in an unconditioned basement or garge in a humid environment for 17 yrs. I like the saw, but don't worry to much about it. I know I'm going to take a wire wheel to it followed by a Scotchbrite pad and wax at least annually. I usually do this type of tune-up prior to any big project, both for the saw and to get my head into it. Unless you make the saw your hobby, it is going to get stained, blemished etc. if you have it long enough those blemishes will talk to you

 

[dirttracker18]

Ok the proper method is as follows:

Apply automotive wax followed by Johnsons paste wax and a liberal coat of WD 40. You then empty a bag of kitty litter on top of the unit and cover with a large garbage bag. The bag is to be cut open at the top though and allowed to breath.
You then must winch the unit up to the ceiling partially disassembled. It must be winched directly above where your car is parked so that if it falls it will no damage the concrete below.

Ok I have no idea but this has been a fun read that actually contained some good ideas!

 

[smschriefer]

Paste wax is okay, but if you want a better product, that is easier to apply - use Boeshield T-9 (http://boeshield.com/). It was developed by Boeing due to their need to treat all their machines. To me it is the cat's meow regarding tool maintenance. It lubricates and protects parts. They even have a nice product you spray on and wipe off to take care of any surface rust if you go too long between treatments. I promise you, this stuff works. You can get it at Sears and the website lists other locations.

 

[Mandres]

pics of the mobile base that I welded for my PM 66

Nice job on the base, that thing is beast.

 

[camarotoolman]

My unisaw is 33 years old, I have never done a thing to it and I live in damp as h!@# Fl. Boards slide across it just fine. If I cared, I would just hit it with a DA and wax or oil it with what ever. You would sand a project before you finish it, so oil wouldn't matter.

 

[smschriefer]

Oil would matter depending on the porosity of the wood and the type of stain being applied. You can indeed use oil to protect against rust, but you would need to wipe the table down with solvent before using it to prevent contamination. It works, but it does require additional steps. Really it is a case of personal preference and how often a person wants to prepare the surface. The one thing I can say is do not use a plastic bag, even with a slit as it will cause condensation issues.

 

[clkimmel]

I barely find time to wax my cars and now you're telling me I have to wax my table saw?

 

[Slupie]

Nice job on the base, that thing is beast.

Thank you.

Yes the PM66 weighs in around 500 pounds. The 3 hp motor with the motor bracket weighs about 120 pounds. My saw is fairly new, circa 1986.

I can post a drawing for the mobile base once I find it.

One more picture

 

[Firefyter-Emt]

What you want to do is to give the saw a good coat of Johnson's Paste wax, and buy one of the covers that Woodcraft sells. They make one that is designed for covering shop tools in order to prevent rust. The one I am talking about will keep moisture from entering through the cover, but still allow it to breathe in order to stop moisture build up.

 

[Jackfre]

Thank you.

Yes the PM66 weighs in around 500 pounds. The 3 hp motor with the motor bracket weighs about 120 pounds. My saw is fairly new, circa 1986.

I can post a drawing for the mobile base once I find it.

One more picture

I like that base on your PM. Anyone building one for their saw has to look out for one thing for sure. My old Unisaw has the motor on the rt side. This is where the fence and table extension sit as well. That leaves a very small overhang on the left side of the saw. As a result you can trip on it when moving around the saw. I've figured out how to modify it to reduce that problem but unless I can get a longer table extension on the left side will not be able to totally eliminate it. In the new garage, I'll have a woodshop adjoining so may forgo the rolling base all together. Hmmm!!!

How does your dust collection work on your saw? I readd an article in one of the woodworking mags a few years ago and the fellow put 1/4" masonite ramps along the sides in the base to funnel the dust down to the collector port. It substantially improved the performance of my DC on the table saw. Great mod.

 

[Slupie]

I like that base on your PM. Anyone building one for their saw has to look out for one thing for sure. My old Unisaw has the motor on the rt side. This is where the fence and table extension sit as well. That leaves a very small overhang on the left side of the saw. As a result you can trip on it when moving around the saw. I've figured out how to modify it to reduce that problem but unless I can get a longer table extension on the left side will not be able to totally eliminate it. In the new garage, I'll have a woodshop adjoining so may forgo the rolling base all together. Hmmm!!!

How does your dust collection work on your saw? I readd an article in one of the woodworking mags a few years ago and the fellow put 1/4" masonite ramps along the sides in the base to funnel the dust down to the collector port. It substantially improved the performance of my DC on the table saw. Great mod.

It works OK with the 2-1/2 hp dust collector. The port is close to the floor so it picks up most of the saw dust.

There are legs to support the extension on the right side once the saw is in place. I just set them in place for now, but eventually they will be hinged to swing up for moving the table saw.

 

[Firefyter-Emt]

BTW... I was just looking for something else and saw those covers. They also have some magnet's to keep it against the saw.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2004382/8345/Large-Power-Tool-Machine-Cover-56-x-72.aspx

 

[Dave88LX]

Struggling where to put my Ridgid TS3650. It is deep with the motor and wide with the rails. I think the best solution is probably to put it up against the wall in the corner and build a bench over the top of it. It's the most out-of-the-way area I can think of.

Glad I read about the paste, mine needs some love in that department.

I'm reading up on how others feel about Boeshield T-9.