Tack evertying or finish weld as i go?

[cspcrx]

I am about to start building my new work bench. Frame will all by 2x2x.120 steel. I have been watching a tone of videos and it seems some tack the entire structure together then go back and weld it all up. Others tack a section and finish weld it before adding another section.

So for those more experience fabricators than I is there an advantage one way or the other. To me, because I am less skilled, it seems tacking everything then coming back would be the best way just incase I screw something up and need to take it apart.

 

[Arkansas COB]

I am about to start building my new work bench. Frame will all by 2x2x.120 steel. I have been watching a tone of videos and it seems some tack the entire structure together then go back and weld it all up. Others tack a section and finish weld it before adding another section.

So for those more experience fabricators than I is there an advantage one way or the other. To me, because I am less skilled, it seems tacking everything then coming back would be the best way just incase I screw something up and need to take it apart.

this answers your question plain and simple

 

[fos373]

just don't make any mistakes. you'll be fine!!!

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

You can also break it down to sub assemblies. If you tack everything you may have a hard time getting back to concealed areas. Tack it all together but plan to cut apart sections to make it easy to finish weld. Each set of legs a sub, shelf a sub and a top.

 

[cspcrx]

Thanks guys. I wish I could guarantee no mistakes will be made but I have to be realistic with myself.

I was looking at the idea of breaking it up into sections as well, tacking those up and finishing them. Like the top, leg assemblies, etc. then connecting them up.

I appreciate your help and incite on this.

 

[Old Man Roger]

It's also easier to keep everything square if you tack it all first.

 

[cspcrx]

That is what the videos said that seemed to promote tacking everything up then going around and finishing up the project.

 

[Muggzy]

Controlling distortion due to heat from your welds will be much easier if you tack things first. You can be strategic about this and do it in sections as proposed. For example; doing two legs and the members between them to keep those square. Then do the opposite end/side etc.

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[kazlx]

Tack everything first. Unless you have sub-assemblies like Hot Rod said. Then you can tack all that, weld it out after alignment, then put all your pieces. You will just give yourself a headache if you don't tack first.

 

[bad_idea]

As you weld, the steel will move around. It's what steel does. By tacking the entire bench together (good, meaty tacks) it will keep everything square. If you weld as you go then things will move around and you will have to straighten things back out. Keep in mind the bench doesn't need to be 100% welded. It is not a warship, it's a work bench. I put my weld table through hell, throw transmissions and axles up there, and it is still standing. It is ~80% welded. I'm not going to bother with the hard to get to joints.

 

[matt_i]

As said, tack all over. Its much easier to slice thru a few tacks with a Metabo & cutoff disk then trying to slice 6" of weld out in case you don't like the fit etc.

A tack has some ductility so you can use clamps and hammers and leverage up to a point to tweak the parts as you go.

 

[sqznby]

Tack everything, then weld.

 

[Robert Haas]

just as you build and tack it together, you should weld it in the same discipline. Weld on one piece then move to the other end and run a bead there. keep moving around. When you are done you will have a better chance all 4 feet are still pretty close to being on the ground.

 

[bad_idea]

Adjustable feet will solve the out of square legs. Even if you make it dead square, your floor will not be. Typically a wooden table will twist to meet the floor. The steel table will not, it will rock. You can shim the legs, or you can use adjustable feet.

Easy adjustable legs - Weld a piece of 1/4" plate to the bottom of the leg, drill a 1/2" hole in that, weld a 1/2-13 nut to the topside of the plate, thread a 1/2-13 bolt into the bottom side, weld a heavy fender washer to the bolt head (larger foot). Weld the washer on in such a way that you can still get a wrench on the bolt head. Makes it much easier to adjust leg length if you move the table a lot. If your table is heavier, step up to thicker plate and larger bolts.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Recheck some things after you weld them out, so you get a feel for how much they moved, it takes awhile to get a handle on. Its easier to deal with some distortion as expected than as a surprise each time.

 

[readhead]

Tack then weld but more importantly be mindful of where you tack. Don't tack in a corner that you can't get a grinder to to cut it. If you think you might have to pull something tack on the side you will pull. These are all common sense tricks that you will learn with experience.

 

[bimmer1980]

As you weld, the steel will move around. It's what steel does. By tacking the entire bench together (good, meaty tacks) it will keep everything square. If you weld as you go then things will move around and you will have to straighten things back out. Keep in mind the bench doesn't need to be 100% welded. It is not a warship, it's a work bench. I put my weld table through hell, throw transmissions and axles up there, and it is still standing. It is ~80% welded. I'm not going to bother with the hard to get to joints.

Nice!! I agree. While a joint fully welded out looks clean, it really is over kill for so many projects. Depending on how the joint is set up, a person is better off welding the two sides that will distort less and completely skip the welds that will add the most distortion.

A rough rule of thumb is that a 1" long 1/4" weld bead is good for at least 1000 lbs... (disclaimer...just a rough estimate..YMMV).

Tube structures have a tendency to really move out of square if you are not mindful of the order in which you weld. I find that the T welds have the most tendency to pull it out of square. I usually weld the T-joints after the flat welds.

Depending on the project, I have left things with good tack welds for quite some time. Much easier to grind a tack weld out with a cut off wheel than a full 3" length of weld 1/4" thick....

 

[koditten]

Tack everything first. you don't have to use your helmet. you can just cover the weld up with your hand to prevent flash burn. saves a lot of time and effort with the helmet.

 

[pi_guy]

Tack everything first. you don't have to use your helmet. you can just cover the weld up with your hand to prevent flash burn. saves a lot of time and effort with the helmet.

Do not wear gloves either this way you can get a good tan.
There is a reason for safety equipment it is not only the eyes that can get burned, ever heard of skin cancer?

 

[cspcrx]

Thanks so much everyone. I do plan on using adjustable feet, like the ones Steevo used in his build. It's going to be and L shaped bench the short leg is actually going to be on a header slab so adjustable feet are a must.

You also answered another question, on the fully welding it. I noticed on some benches they had 1in welds but not fully welded. This will save a tone of time as well and reduce the risk of warping. I also watched several videos showing the best place to put a tack to avoid warping, those were very interesting seeing how weld placement pulled it out of square more.

I am a safety profession, that's my day job, so I am all about PPE. Always wear it!

 

[bigguns69]

Mistakes repair and holding square is the reason for tacking everything up first, at least the main structure.

 

[bad_idea]

Do not wear gloves either this way you can get a good tan.
There is a reason for safety equipment it is not only the eyes that can get burned, ever heard of skin cancer?

You've gotta be shitting me. This is a garage project, not a professional weld shop. Occasional exposure won't hurt you, day in and day out in a shop is when it becomes an issue.

 

[tarmy]

I make sub assemlies as much as possible...tack then weld and grind the sections. Then as I assemble the pieces...tack...check...weld up.

 

[koditten]

You've gotta be shitting me. This is a garage project, not a professional weld shop. Occasional exposure won't hurt you, day in and day out in a shop is when it becomes an issue.

I don't think they read the part about my shielding the weld with my free hand.

 

[BD1]

Tack up and then weld. Adding gussets helps welds from pulling too when added from legs to frame top. Remember, the top only needs to be tacked . Too much weld will distort and won't be flat.