Tandom air compressor tanks

[N8]

I have a 60 gallon belt drive compressor in my shop. I have the possibility of getting three more tanks, w/ old broken unrepairable motors.
Does anyone have any suggestions on removing the old motors and plumbing the tanks into a tandom configuration?
My biggest concern is the pressure shut off switch. Which tank should that go in and would it read all three (in theory). Should it stay in the main tank with the motor?


Thanks,
Nate

 

[ZRX61]

Thats the way I would do it. I'd also join them via a manifold set up so you could isolate any of the tanks from the other 3. I'd also make a point of isolating them from each other after you're done working so if one leaks it doesn't drain the others.

 

[nadogail]

One pressure switch, but three safety reliefs (one on each tank) and isolation valves too.

 

[Torque1st]

Don't forget you will still need to drain moisture out of all three tanks.

The pressure switch will read all three tanks if the are connected together. I would use 3/4 or 1" line for the manifold.

The isolation valves will also help if your system is drained and you need quick pressure. It will be a lot easier for the compressor to fill one tank than three of them.

Each of the old tanks should have a pressure relief.

 

[Dragster Racer]

What is the point of pressure reliefs on all three? Not saying I disagree, just asking. If one tank is over pressure, all will be.

 

[Torque1st]

A tank could be heated by something while isolated. Not very likely, but it is just easier to leave the pressure reliefs on all the tanks.

 

[Dragster Racer]

I see what you are getting at. Even if, that tank would back feed the pressure to the others. But if the reliefs are there, may as well use them. Thanks for the explanation.

A tank could be heated by something while isolated. Not very likely, but it is just easier to leave the pressure reliefs on all the tanks.

 

[LWW]

I have 3 tanks connected to my 60 gallon IR "main" tank/pump.

I have two 10 gallon "portable" air tanks that I picked up for almost no money and are mounted in the corners above each side of my garage door and plumbed into the air line's that feed my hose reels on each side of the door.

I also have my oil-less Craftsman 33 gallon upright plumbed in parallel with the compressor turned off when it's not doing duty at the race track giving me a total of 113 gallons of capacity, not including the lines.

Since it gets used independently, I do have the pressure switch on the Craftsman active in addition to the one on my main tank, but I have a shut-off valve and a quick disconnect on it for easy isolation and removal from the distribution system when it needs to go to the track by itself.

I put the 10 gallon tanks by the hose reels to ensure there's plenty of volume available as close as possible to high consumption air tools. This saves some work on the pump for short use high volume tools.

If my main pump starts to fall behind, I just kick the compressor on the Craftsman to the "ON" position and it'll back-up the main pump. Of course, I have to get my ear plugs out at that point too...

Adding cheap tanks either in-line or in parallel to your main compressor tank is a cheap and easy way to add capacity for little cost.

 

[Torque1st]

I see what you are getting at. Even if, that tank would back feed the pressure to the others. But if the reliefs are there, may as well use them. Thanks for the explanation.

If the tank is isolated by it's shut off valve then the heated air would not get back to the other relief valves. It is just a cheap safety thing since the relief valves are already there.

LWW- that sounds like a very flexible system!

 

[Dragster Racer]

Ah ha! Sure. That is the right way to do it.

 

[Torque1st]

With isolation valves he can keep all those reservoir tanks pressurized for quick air pressure even if he has those pesky leaks in couplers and air hoses etc.

 

[N8]

Thanks guys. Still working on getting the tanks so i will let you know how it goes together.