Tapcon screw problems

[Marctrees]

Tapcon screw stripping problem

Trying to fasten an actual 1" thick board to concrete slab.

Treated 1" actual radius edge common Decking board.

Bought 2 1/2" Tapcon ( actually Hillman from the bin clone).

So I have 1 1/2" of screw biting in the concrete slab.

Using SDS 3/16 bit.. carefully drilled....NOT reamed out... TOTALLY removed all dust in hole w tiny plastic tube w compressor blow nozzle... hole 1/2" deeper than length of screw... double checked hole is free of dust.

Problem is... screw strips out (hole, AND some screw threads)before it countersinks the flat head flush in the Pine/ Fir board.

It's like a door sill board w three screws... 2 of 3 stripped.

Gonna get longer drill bit and longer screws for more thread engagement tommorow... gonna try that.


What am I doing wrong ?

I'm not a Newbie, well with THESE I am, but built a helluva lot of stuff in my years, and it almost always works out.

But, these Tapcon type things are frustrating me.

I have read and complying w this...

https://www.tapcon.com/getattachmen...con_installation_instructions_3-16and1-4.aspx

Marc

 

[rjn2649]

You know in the past I've had the same issue. My answer (right or wrong) is to use the next size smaller bit than they say to use. And drill clearance holes in the wood first.

 

[Marctrees]

Yes.. I did drill 5/16 holes in the wood... but in the concrete... it is not like fractional or # bits that are available... it's just 3/16 the normal smallest, then 1/4"

So, I dunno past that.

I'm just gonna try a deeper depth of engagement tomorrow... I have no better possible solution.

And yes.. I am bearing down w heavy direct inline pressure as I drive the screws, they still strip before the tighten down fully to countersink in the soft wood.. even w a 5/16" clarance hole in the wood.

Marc

 

[Mustang1167]

I’ve also had problems with tap cons. When I do I just switch to redhead concrete anchors.

 

[firebirdparts]

Countersink the board holes. Then you can just gently kiss the wood with them. They really don't cut into concrete and you can't really generate the kind of force required, as you see. So cheat.

 

[BillK]

Re: Tapcon screw stripping problem

( actually Hillman from the bin clone).

Maybe this is the problem ??

Problem is... screw strips out (hole, AND some screw threads)before it countersinks the flat head flush in the Pine/ Fir board.

Might need to countersink the holes in the wood too ?

I have never had that problem with Tapcons. If anything they always seem way too tight in the hole.

 

[BillK]

And I always buy the actual Tapcon drill bits

 

[DieselNut88]

Make sure you are using a quality bit. I like bosch. That makes a big difference. I would pre drill a countersink in the board. Dont just try to pull the screw head into the board. I have had problems like you describe but in really hard concrete and only the screw threads stripped. I only use TapCon brand screws. You can also drill a larger hole for a plastic anchor. They hold well in concrete and block.

 

[Black hawk]

Pull tapcon insert plastic straw reinstall tapcon.

 

[Marctrees]

Ya, it's a Bosch 3/16 bit.

Living rural, not many choices.

Will see if they have 5/32 tommorow.

Re "countersinking"... the 5/16 clearance hole is pretty darn close to an actual countersink being in soft wood and all considered.

The Hillman Drawers are the only option at this lumber yard.

Marc

 

[ItsNemo]

Drill deeper...1/2" is never enough. The only time I've ever had problems with tapcons is when there's not enough depth and/or still **** in the hole (when I don't have access to compressed air).

3/16" drill bit for the 1/4" tapcons and 5/32" drill bit for 3/16" tapcons.

 

[Marctrees]

I am using "1/4"" screws w a 3/16 bit.

They go in awfully easy.. in a carefully NOT reamed out hole.

I check the depth after cleanout VERY carefully.. It is NOT a bottoming out issue... AFAIK.

Marc

 

[The Cobbler]

might be soft concrete, plus 1-1/2 isin't that much depth (IMO) also tapcons are usually 2-1/4 , 2-3/4 so is it possible you have 2-1/4"?

 

[Musicinabottle]

Marc, they do make 5/32 bits. I have a few of them, and they work great!

 

[Marctrees]

Ya, thank you, I know, question is if I can get it locally in the woods here tomorrow.

Otherwise, may do Amazon.

And I will get longer ones anyway also Cobbler.

Marc

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If this isn't exposed to view, I use a tie wire folded in half and stuffed in the hole. I've done this with galvanized nails too and the board will break before the nail lets loose. Another option is an expanding hammer in plug. I use those on metal threshold repairs.

 

[Marctrees]

I actually did try a 2" long piece of #14 Copper, kind of worked, the screw did grab.. but then hit a dead end 1/4" before seating.

Good idea though.

Marc

 

[jtbinvalrico]

Consider lag shields....I use these all the time where i could’ve messed around trying to make tapcons work. Many sizes available. Added bonus is that you can use your preferred screw type: hex, Phillips, etc.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-4-in-Short-Lag-Shield-3-per-Pack-10386/202971877


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[Max]

Read the tapcon web site carefully. There is both a minimum and a maximum depth the screw shoukd go into the concrete. If you go too deep into the concrete either the threads get chewed off or the bolt snaps. I found this out hard way...

If the screw seems to go in correct initially and then seems to get bad in the last 1/4 or 1/2 inch this is likely the problem. In that case I'd go to a 2" screw. Otherwise ir's a drill or concrete issue as others noted.

Max

PS. Tapcon specifies that the hole only needs to be 1/4" deeper, so with 1/2" you are fine there.

 

[MushCreek]

I have the opposite problem with my concrete. It's VERY hard to drill, and the Tapcons won't go in. I've snapped them off trying to get them all the way down. In my case, it's the aggregate- the stones are extremely hard.

 

[ItsNemo]

Read the tapcon web site carefully. There is both a minimum and a maximum depth the screw shoukd go into the concrete. If you go too deep into the concrete either the threads get chewed off or the bolt snaps. I found this out hard way...

If the screw seems to go in correct initially and then seems to get bad in the last 1/4 or 1/2 inch this is likely the problem. In that case I'd go to a 2" screw. Otherwise ir's a drill or concrete issue as others noted.

Max

PS. Tapcon specifies that the hole only needs to be 1/4" deeper, so with 1/2" you are fine there.

Disagree, the 1/2" has never proven to be enough in use.

Also, I drive them with an impact wrench...don't know what you're using but I find the impact works best.

I typically use 3 1/4" tapcons on 2x4's (so 1 3/4" embedded)...I wouldn't bother going shorter than what he is already using.

 

[Max]

You're welcome to disagree all you like. However, Tapcon (the guys that designed, tested, and manufactured the fasteners) says 1/4". Maybe they're wrong, but it doesn't seem likely to me. They have extensive tables for shear, etc. that had to come from extensive testing.

Installation instructions are here:
https://www.tapcon.com/getattachmen...con_installation_instructions_3-16and1-4.aspx

I also use impact drivers as well - FWIW 18V Milwaukee Fuel. But I don't see how that's relevant to the OPs issue, which is that the screws either seem to be loosing their threads or binding.

Max

 

[toplessHO]

5/32 is for a 3/16 tapcon
mail order if you cant get locally but use only tapcon
agree the bosch bit is better tapcon bits are poop

 

[OccupantRJ]

5/32 is for a 3/16 tapcon
mail order if you cant get locally but use only tapcon
agree the bosch bit is better tapcon bits are poop

This, and I use a bar of soap to strike the threads across before driving them with an impact tool. Countersink the wood first.

 

[theoldwizard1]

So you are just attaching a 5/4 deck board to a slab. Flat horizontal, no big loads (nothing hanging on it) correct ? Tapcons are overkill for such light duty.

I use Red Head Poly Set Anchors.

Fast and easy to install. They will hold reasonable loads on a vertical wall. for insurance, space them closer together.

If you think they look like a hollow wall anchor, they are, but they are over sized. #12 screws required. There is one problem. The screws they give you are NOT going to be long enough to properly secure that 5/4", plus they are standard zinc plated and the PT boards will eat through those screws. Measure the screws they give you and add 1 to 1-1/4" and buy stainless screws. Make sure they are Phillips or Robertson (square) drive. Countersunk screws are fine with 5/4 lumber.

For light loads, even on a vertical wall (mail box), just use a standard plastic hollow wall anchor.

 

[fnsane]

We use concrete anchors of different breeds quite a lot. One thing I've noticed is Tapcons do better with a hole drilled with a hammer drill instead of a rotary hammer. You said you're using SDS bits? Normally a rotary hammer bit. Try the Bosch hammerdrill bits and see if it helps

 

[sixty4]

Doh, always snap tapcons. Even when using the bit they supply.

 

[RustyJunk]

Every time I come across something that was installed with Tapcons half of them would be either loose or falling out, the good thing though was if you had to pull something apart just a wack of a hammer and they would come loose.

 

[snickers muncher]

I use 3/16 and drive by hand. The few times I've had problems I just follow up with a 1/4. I use clearance holes and countersink first.

 

[Kevin54]

DO NOT use a carbide spade bit to drill the concrete. They will walk and enlarge the hole. Use a solid carbide twist drill. Plus if you don't have an impact driver, soap them up and run them fast.

 

[wssix99]

Yes.. I did drill 5/16 holes in the wood... but in the concrete... it is not like fractional or # bits that are available... it's just 3/16 the normal smallest, then 1/4"

I've had this problem before and had success by setting the tapcons without the wood, taking them out, then sinking them again with the wood. Even if you drill out the wood larger, the threads can still bite a little and add resistance to the drive.

 

[Marctrees]

OK Guys.. Read all the posts.. Thank you all !!

Will try again tommorow... new 5/32 bit, longer new screws...will drill extra deep.

I'll be back...

Marc

 

[jack stand]

Did you guy's pick up in the above posted Tapcon instructions that it said to DRIVE the scerws in with a hammer drill?
That's a new one on me but it makes sense.

 

[Marctrees]

I am using a regular cordless Bosch impact driver w the 1/4 hex chuck.

Marc

 

[theoldwizard1]

Go rent/buy a powder actuated driver and by done with it.

The footer on the back wall of my garage rotted out and so did all the bolts. The carpenter replaced the footer with PT and used about twice as many powder driven stainless nails.

 

[Marctrees]

Rain delay here today, hopefully try tomorrow.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

I have two diff powder guns, but this is an appearance issue.. door threshold.

Marc

 

[egdede]

I often had problems with Tap-Cons as described above. Properly drilled and evacuated, etc. Tried these, and I have never looked back:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Walldog-6-...n-All-Purpose-Anchors-Screws-Included/3343778

 

[the gypsy]

In my experience I have used Tapcon on a jobsite and installed like 100 tapcon with 10 percent either breaking or not grabbing properly or not being to drive all the way. So when I went to buy another box of "Tapcon" I discovered Cobra Fasteners a darker bleu than tapcon. So I tried it and I must say in the 100 I drove in none snapped none stripped.
So now I will buy only Cobra fastener brand unless I am stuck up **** creek. At which point I will buy what is available.

 

[PugetDude]

I hate Tapcon screws.
In old, hard concrete they snap going in. (a third of the time)
In soft or crumbly old concrete they strip out. ( a third of the time)
In relatively new 4000# concrete, under perfect atmospheric and metrological conditions, using a brand new bit and driver, wearing your favorite shirt, eating a nutritious breakfast beforehand and holding your mouth just right while coaxing them in, they work as intended. (about a third of the time)

If they do strip out, you can often get them to "bite" if you put a short piece of #14 or #16 copper wire in the hole before you re-tighten up the screw.

Good luck!