To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Tapcon screw problems

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

peterl

Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2012
Messages
17
I Have had to touch the sides of the carbide bit tip to a grinder before to get a properly sized hole for Tapcons. Makes a custom size hole... Good luck.
 

gml1998

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Messages
201
make sure hole is clean. I've had dust from drilling in bottom of hole which will cause screw to bottom out .
 

Justind97

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 6, 2014
Messages
691
Location
Ottawa, Canada
I've put in well over 1000 tapcons.

Each and every time, I always go 1/2-3/4" deeper using a hammer drill and the bit Tapcon provides. Vacuum out if I can/ blow out with air.

Following this, I turn my hammer drill to drill only and use the torque to put the screw in. I'm reading through this thread and a lot of guys are using cordless impacts which hammers down on the threads and may actually be the cause of why the screws fail.

An electric hammer drill has what, roughly 1000lbs of torque, that's a lot for those screws to take - especially being driven into concrete. A hammer drill set on drill has far less torque.

Food for thought
 

bwringer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
10,242
Location
Indianapolis
I hate Tapcon screws.
In old, hard concrete they snap going in. (a third of the time)
In soft or crumbly old concrete they strip out. ( a third of the time)
In relatively new 4000# concrete, under perfect atmospheric and metrological conditions, using a brand new bit and driver, wearing your favorite shirt, eating a nutritious breakfast beforehand and holding your mouth just right while coaxing them in, they work as intended. (about a third of the time)

If they do strip out, you can often get them to "bite" if you put a short piece of #14 or #16 copper wire in the hole before you re-tighten up the screw.

Good luck!

I'm gonna join this me too movement.

Bill


Me three. Hate these buggers. They tend to be very picky about the concrete's exact laboratory properties.
 

exranger06

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
1,686
Location
CT
I've only installed Tapcons a couple of times, but I've had great luck doing it this way: I drilled a hole according to the Tapcon's directions (correct size bit and depth) using a hammer drill. I didn't use any power tools to install the Tapcons. They were hex-head, so I used a 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. There were times when the screw felt like it was going to snap, so I backed it out a few turns, and continued tightening and they went in fine the second time.
 

strutaeng

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
2,240
Location
Dallas, TX
Dang, this thread is crazy. I have had problems installing Tapcons too many times too. My problem is that they usually snap off.

They should rename them to "SNAP OFF CONCRETE ANCHORS!" LOL

The last time I had to use them I drilled deeper than I thought I needed to and drilled out several times to clear the dust. That seemed to help a lot. But if you are stripping the concrete, then you need to use longer screws to get more treads into the concrete. The concrete may be too soft in this area.

OP, for a door threshold I have used plastic anchors with regular stainless steel screws. Tapcons (or anything blue) is not too pretty in a threshold anyways. Tapcon does make S.S., but THD doesn't carry them.
 

maxpat82

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
275
1/2" deeper can be enough..but you need to clean the hole.

I don't use air to clean the hole: just the drill that I get in and out a couple of time and screw in right after.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

66cj225

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2011
Messages
332
Location
NH
It only takes one rock to make a hole go sideways so the nature of the aggregate in the concrete is a factor no matter how careful you are about wollowing. As the fastener dia increases, this is less of a factor; the drill bit is stiffer.
 

LX-Markham

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2013
Messages
2,929
Location
Markham, Ont.
There were times when the screw felt like it was going to snap, so I backed it out a few turns, and continued tightening and they went in fine the second time.
Like a tap.
Makes sense.

Me, I drill the hole, ream it a few times with the drill, then the anchor seems to go in okay.
 
OP
M

Marctrees

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
6,265
Location
TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
OK, job done.

Not at all happy, I try my best to do good clean work, but good enough.

I will NOT be using these again, but another method depending on use.

You Guys were pretty much in agreement..

I am not a stupid man, very detail oriented, a reader and good logical study, ..but these things are just way toooo fussy.

Thank you all for your help.

Marc
 

fsae0607

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
2,290
Location
San Fernando Valley, CA
I've only installed Tapcons a couple of times, but I've had great luck doing it this way: I drilled a hole according to the Tapcon's directions (correct size bit and depth) using a hammer drill. I didn't use any power tools to install the Tapcons. They were hex-head, so I used a 3/8" drive ratchet and socket. There were times when the screw felt like it was going to snap, so I backed it out a few turns, and continued tightening and they went in fine the second time.

Ha same here!

I used Tapcons a few times around the house and I just hate my *** puckering every time I use one. I've had a couple almost snap on me.

I stick with Redheads for the big stuff, lag shields for medium stuff and plastic anchors for light stuff. Much better :thumbup:
 

ColoMid

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2013
Messages
22
Location
Canton, Ga
A fix I have used a few times on stripped holes, mostly in CMU, is to drop
a length of large size plastic grass whip in the hole and drive in the screw.
Never a failure yet. Always use a high torque drill. No hammer action.
RichD
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom