Tape measures
- Thread starter fordkid88
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marineman
Well-known member
That's the entire purpose of a tip that moves, it's not for a saw blade it's the thickness of the tip of the tape measure.
Skiff Builder
Well-known member
Ford,
When you do an inside measurement push the tip firmly against the work.
On an outside measurement,pull on it firmly. The hook will slide the way it's supposed to , to account for tips thickness.
Check it out once in a while. They can jam due to bending- that's when you'll have a diff in values.
When you do an inside measurement push the tip firmly against the work.
On an outside measurement,pull on it firmly. The hook will slide the way it's supposed to , to account for tips thickness.
Check it out once in a while. They can jam due to bending- that's when you'll have a diff in values.
davethorik
Well-known member
Inside measurement, **** the end of the tape up against your "Point A", and measure to "Point B." This pushes the hook back on the rivets to make the outer face of the hook zero.
Outside measurement, put the hook on "Point A" and measure to "Point B." This pulls the hook forward on the rivets and makes the inside face of the hook zero.
Outside measurement, put the hook on "Point A" and measure to "Point B." This pulls the hook forward on the rivets and makes the inside face of the hook zero.
rlitman
Well-known member
Precisely. The amount the hook slides should be exactly the thickness of the hook itself.
If it didn't slide, then an inside and outside measurements would always be different, because the hook has more than a zero thickness.
There are hook rules you can get with fixed hooks. I believe that the Fastcap flatback rule is like this. But it is ONLY made to use for outside dimensions.
stonesg
Well-known member
The purpose of the hook being loose is to subtract the hook thickness on an inside measurement.
Look at the end as you push it in and out and you will see that the inch ends on the outside if it's pushed in and the inside if it's pulled out.
Really the proper way to use it is to just not pay any attention to it... either hook your piece or push against it.
TG
Look at the end as you push it in and out and you will see that the inch ends on the outside if it's pushed in and the inside if it's pulled out.
Really the proper way to use it is to just not pay any attention to it... either hook your piece or push against it.
TG
gahrajmahal
Well-known member
Let's calibrate your tape measure. Do you have a combination square? No? Then time to get one. And spend a little money on one with very crisp 1/64" markings. Next, locate a nice crisp edge item that is flat. A metal table top or finished piece of hardwood trim like oak. Set your combination square for a nice even number like 6 inches. Use a very sharp pencil and mark the flat surface with the square held firmly on the edge. Next, hook your tape measure over the edge, pulling tight, your tape should read precisely 6". Next, remove the rigid ruler from your combination square. You will use the right angle part next. Push the vertical side against the crisp edge. Push the end of your tape measure against the vertical side of the combination square. It should read again exactly 6". If it doesn't, then your tape measure end is damaged or just such poor quality that the scaled lines are inaccurate.
This.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
No, keep one around to remind you how nice your good tape is when you accientally pick up the bad one.
I got good laugh out of that one. Ill keep one and start pawning the rest off on my enemies...I'm gonna have to make some more enemies to unload these things.
bseant
Well-known member
im on the market for a new tape measure. Ive always used stanley 16' no frills tape. Any suggestions?
Distrophe
Well-known member
I use the 25FT Stanley Fatmax. 2pk of Milwaukee is a few $ more & has a magnet on some, could be handy.
Wish I had a mag on the end sometimes. Plain jane 16FT goes for $4-7.
The 25FT x 1 1/4in might be bulky for ya. 2pk $18.25 Amazon link just in case:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MWVV4R/?tag=atomicindus08-20
7ft standout 16FT x 3/4in - $4.63 addon so $25 total order.
11ft standout 25FT x 1in - $6.89 addon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVRA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
matt_i
Well-known member
Ive always relied on the 25' Stanley as my go-to measurement device (outside of precision .001" measurements).
Bondo
Well-known member
Ayuh,... Simple fix, if that's what ya really want,.....
Just take a hammer, 'n tighten the rivets holdin' the tip on,....
I carried a 16ft Stanley Fax Max 95% of the time unless we were framing, then I'd break out the 25 footer. I'm a fan of the Fat Max line, but they are on the bulky side. Hence carrying the smaller unless the extra length is really needed. JMO.
bseant
Well-known member
yea i always thought they were a little on the bulky side. but ive never heard anything bad about them. I mainly need them for cabinet making that's why i always used the standard stanley's. I was just in a hurry and didn't wait for the blade to fully stop on my table saw and of course it touched.
davethorik
Well-known member
The FatMax are nice tapes but i don't care for the bulk. All the concrete guys I know, that is the only thing they use. I think that says something.
My favorite Stanleys are the slightly older USA made LeverLocks. I don't like the current models you find at HD. I have 3 of the older style, 2 different sized black 12' and a neon green 30'. I will buy more whenever I see them.
My edc tape is a modern chrome 25' PowerLock. It's not perfect but not bad.
My favorite Stanleys are the slightly older USA made LeverLocks. I don't like the current models you find at HD. I have 3 of the older style, 2 different sized black 12' and a neon green 30'. I will buy more whenever I see them.
My edc tape is a modern chrome 25' PowerLock. It's not perfect but not bad.
I got tired of freakin' blood blisters decades ago, won't use ANYTHING but a lever lock - and the terms "accuracy" and "harbor freight" should NEVER appear in the same sentence, unless it ALSO includes "OR" :=) Steve