Taping before Epoxy Application?

[lespaul64]

I'm finally ready to lay down my garage floor coating after all of the prep work. Would anyone recommend taping off the foundation walls where it meets the slab to speed up the cutting in process and make it a little cleaner? I think the answer will be "no" because I'm not sure when the tape could be removed and I could see it causing problems. Conversely, I know time is an issue when applying and thought it might makes things go quicker.

Thanks again folks -
LP

 

[Zmw]

I need to tape off my water heater as it lays directly on the floor. From what I heard, if you tape you need to remove asap while its still wet. I am going to epoxy my sidewalls so everything matches, I think that will look better.

I am 1-2 weeks out from laying everything down, still stuck in prep

 

[lespaul64]

That's what I was thinking too (the tape would have to be removed quickly). I painted my sidewalls white with a concrete paint (kind of looks like giant moulding now) because I didn't know if the floor coat would set correctly vertically and I was squared about having enough square footage in the kit.

 

[Edger]

You could always touch up the walls again if you were not accurate, and then touch up the floor again after touching up the walls etc. ha, ha.

Seriously, it does take time to cut in the edges and you need to mix small amounts of epoxy for this which is a pain. If you masked first and pulled it off while wet it will be OK.

Watch out for the wet masking which can make a mess, make sure it does not touch anything and cut it at the corners so you do not have to rip off all of the masking at the same time.

The way we used to do it (without masking) was to cut some of the side walls and the back wall, roll out the epoxy to those points, cut in some more edges, roll some more and so on. That way you keep using fresh epoxy. Much better with two people, hard with one.

 

[pauls_workshop]

That's what I was thinking too (the tape would have to be removed quickly). I painted my sidewalls white with a concrete paint (kind of looks like giant moulding now) because I didn't know if the floor coat would set correctly vertically and I was squared about having enough square footage in the kit.

Couple pointers: I had to do tape on my job because I did it in two sections weeks apart. You can tape. I recommend strongly Gorilla Tape for this. Good stuff. Real gorillas are used in the product development for this tape and are on the front of the packaging! Ok, just kidding, but it is good stuff. Put it down tight.

Once you mix your epoxy you will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour max to take that tape off. Use spiked shoes for sure. Once you are done with the job and the chips, walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped. Don't wait too long or your spikes will start to show or the tape won't want to come off. 45 minutes is about right. I would only do a 10x10 section of floor at a time (per batch) if you are alone or else time can be a real problem. For cutting in, I just used a big 24" squeegee and didn't use a brush or anything else to cut in. I just used the squeegee and let the edge of it do the cutting in needed for the edges! Much faster this way and then plenty of relaxed time to get the job done without stress for time. Turned out great. The roller will make it perfect; the spreading is just to get it out on the floor fast. Don't let it sit on the floor en masse long at all. Get it spread out a little fast, then you have more time before it all hardens. Go back and spread it more perfectly after spreading it out a little bit fast first all over your line of poured epoxy. Once the epoxy sits together long, it heats up and then starts to harden. Spreading it out a little fast might give you 10 or 20 more minutes for that section by not letting it heat up as fast to start with. No problems at all for me, but if you try to do 20x10 or 30x10 alone for a section at a time, you had better be really good. Pointers above might help for those larger sections to work out. I would only do 10x10 at a time alone myself. Then it is low stress and piece of cake for do it yourselfers to do this. - Paul

 

[AlphaGarage]

Generally speaking I don't tape the walls. Usually these coatings are more viscous than typical wall paint, so they don't splatter if you roll slowly. Plus there's a small "bow wave" of epoxy that forms next to the roller, and if you roll parallel to the wall, but just a 1/4 inch or so away from it, that wave will coat right next to the wall. It's easier to do than it is to explain.

 

[fstbusa]

I taped off the threshold to my garage door because I didn't want the epoxy under the door seal. It worked fine and was easy to remove.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Don't tape the perimeter, along the walls. Easier to touch up the walls post treatment than playing with tape during the process.

Too easy to forget a piece of tape that is now part of your floor or you pull up some flooring that is still in the curing phase.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Another thought is to tape wherever you want to. Mix a small batch only and use that to do the cutting in only along the walls with the tape. Then mix the bigger batch after all that is done. By the time that is spread and rolled, the cut in part will be dry enough to pull off the tape. Taping whatever you want can work just fine, but you do only have so much time and have to be careful how you do it. - Paul

 

[lespaul64]

When to continue applying epoxy?

Thanks for all the advice. I ended up taping but doing a small batch for the cut-in and then pulling the tape right away. Worked out great. However, the coverage of the product I used was terrible. About 1/2 of their claims. So now I am stuck with 1/2 a finished garage. Tomorrow is about 80 deg and 65 percent humidty. And then it just keeps getting warmer all week and more humid. I really want to finish this puppy up tomorrow. I have some concerns though.

1) Can I wrap up tomorrow, or do I now have to wait until the 1/2 finished floor totally cures? E.g, is it going to start pulling pieces of partially cure product?

2) Assuming there isn't any issue with 1), is it an issue that later in the week it's going to be crazy hot and humid? I have no rush getting back into the garage.

Thx again.

 

[pauls_workshop]

Re: When to continue applying epoxy?

Hi again lespaul (by the way I would like one of your famous guitars if you have a spare one). I have a fender strat I'm trying to learn to play on in my spare time as another hobby...

Maybe need a little more info, but did you finish off a section completely or did you end up partially finishing one off? If you finished off a section, that is fine. All you have to do is get more epoxy and start on the new section at the edge of where you left off. If it isn't a great edge, you could rough up just slightly the edge transition last couple inches or so of it with a random orbit sander, maybe 60 or 80 grit paper, just for the new epoxy to stick to it. If you were fast enough with the new coat within the chemical bonding time for your particular epoxy, you would not have to do any sanding at all. Check your product/manufacturer for what that time is. Most 100% solid types are around 24 hours for the chemical bond or you have to scuff it up a little. Anyway, then apply over that edge area and it should all blend in well with the old. If you ended up really botching the first go on the floor, you could also scuff up the whole floor and apply new epoxy right on top of whatever you did and start over. That is an option too. Good luck! - Paul

 

[lespaul64]

Re: When to continue applying epoxy?

Hi again lespaul (by the way I would like one of your famous guitars if you have a spare one). I have a fender strat I'm trying to learn to play on in my spare time as another hobby...

Maybe need a little more info, but did you finish off a section completely or did you end up partially finishing one off? If you finished off a section, that is fine. All you have to do is get more epoxy and start on the new section at the edge of where you left off. If it isn't a great edge, you could rough up just slightly the edge transition last couple inches or so of it with a random orbit sander, maybe 60 or 80 grit paper, just for the new epoxy to stick to it. If you were fast enough with the new coat within the chemical bonding time for your particular epoxy, you would not have to do any sanding at all. Check your product/manufacturer for what that time is. Most 100% solid types are around 24 hours for the chemical bond or you have to scuff it up a little. Anyway, then apply over that edge area and it should all blend in well with the old. If you ended up really botching the first go on the floor, you could also scuff up the whole floor and apply new epoxy right on top of whatever you did and start over. That is an option too. Good luck! - Paul

Haha. I do have a nice les paul 64' reissue but it's not looking for a new home Keep practicing though, guitar can be tough starting out once you get it, it becomes very easy.

I stop in the middle of a section. The entire section is complete except the inner closest edge needs a second coat. I'm using Valspar stuff from Lowes. Generally a long pot life. Seems I shouldn't haven issue? I was planning on starting on the edge that needs the second coat (with or without scuffing i guess depending on it's hardness).

 

[pauls_workshop]

Re: When to continue applying epoxy?

yes, probably just start right at that edge and keep going. I think the Valspar has more than a 24 hour recoat window but check that first. Either scuff or not a few inches into where you left off and recoat from there or just recoat if within your chemical recoat window. The epoxy is pretty thin when dry, so probably will blend in ok with where you left off (couple sheets of paper thick). The 100% solids type (which you do not have) is much thicker, maybe a sheet of thin cardboard thick when done. They are all pretty thin though.

 

[lespaul64]

Thanks again folks. Finally wrapped up No issues with the continuation and was even able to add a second coat in areas that looked a little thin. Looks awesome, although I went a little chip happy. Clear coat next but it looks like the pot life on that is much more forgiving, along with the coverage.

 

[jhelrey]

Why not tape and then before you pull it up, score it with a knife?!?!

 

[neuropac]

Lookn forward to some pics

 

[lespaul64]

I'll post some in a day or two. Hopefully it's just wet paint, but all of the areas I did today look like a lighter shade tonight. It could well be that though because the color I used is like a powder blue (really light). the second coat in areas may have made a richer color...which in turn looks lighter. crapola

 

[tanujn]

Couple pointers: I had to do tape on my job because I did it in two sections weeks apart. You can tape. I recommend strongly Gorilla Tape for this. Good stuff. Real gorillas are used in the product development for this tape and are on the front of the packaging! Ok, just kidding, but it is good stuff. Put it down tight.

Once you mix your epoxy you will have around 45 minutes to maybe 1 hour max to take that tape off. Use spiked shoes for sure. Once you are done with the job and the chips, walk across quickly (but carefully) and pull the tape slowly from each end all the way across where it is taped. Don't wait too long or your spikes will start to show or the tape won't want to come off. 45 minutes is about right. I would only do a 10x10 section of floor at a time (per batch) if you are alone or else time can be a real problem. For cutting in, I just used a big 24" squeegee and didn't use a brush or anything else to cut in. I just used the squeegee and let the edge of it do the cutting in needed for the edges! Much faster this way and then plenty of relaxed time to get the job done without stress for time. Turned out great. The roller will make it perfect; the spreading is just to get it out on the floor fast. Don't let it sit on the floor en masse long at all. Get it spread out a little fast, then you have more time before it all hardens. Go back and spread it more perfectly after spreading it out a little bit fast first all over your line of poured epoxy. Once the epoxy sits together long, it heats up and then starts to harden. Spreading it out a little fast might give you 10 or 20 more minutes for that section by not letting it heat up as fast to start with. No problems at all for me, but if you try to do 20x10 or 30x10 alone for a section at a time, you had better be really good. Pointers above might help for those larger sections to work out. I would only do 10x10 at a time alone myself. Then it is low stress and piece of cake for do it yourselfers to do this. - Paul

thanks for all the tips you provide, real deal for all upcoming DIY'ers.