Taping Split Bolts ??

[Marctrees]

I have no other type of Tape on hand other than numerous fresh rolls of #88.

Basic #2 split bolts, 120 v, up high inside weather tight pull box.

I know how to tape well, and am not shy with the amount.

Any problem w numerous properly applied laps of only #88 ??

If you were out in the field, and that's all you had, any reason you would not do it ?

Marc

 

[intimidator782]

I wouldnt be too shy IF there is a definitve way to keep all three taped split bolts from possibly touching eachother. maybe step the splices 2 or 3 inches away from eachother? obviously needs to be on a breaker...

 

[Marctrees]

They will end up with a minimum of probably 8 layers at the most shy spots.

Outhanging protruding edges, like the bolt end, probably 12 wraps minimum.

Possibly max pulled to like 70% of the original unstretched mil thickness.

I've taped many split bolts years ago, just don't have all the materials I had available then.

Pattern of taping will minimize any creep of adhesive.

I think 88 will be fine, just asking old guys opinions.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Bueller ?

 

[alfredeneuman]

Are there no hardware stores in your area?
Most of them carry the materials do do it properly.

 

[rlitman]

Are there no hardware stores in your area?
Most of them carry the materials do do it properly.

Scotch 88 is perfectly fine to tape split bolts "properly".

On that note, Scotch 88 is superior in just about all regards to any other tape you could use. It is less likely to tear when stretched over a sharp corner (a problem with self fusing rubber tape), is rated with enough dielectric strength to cover your needs in just one wrap (friction tape is no longer rated for dielectric strength and so it cannot be used by itself), and has superior abrasion resistance to both of these alternatives (self fusing rubber tape should have a cover wrap). The adhesive in 88 is also more resistant to heat than friction tape (which turns to goo over time).

For my own purposes, I prefer to cover any sharp parts with whatever cheap vinyl tape is on hand, wrap with properly stretched self fusing rubber tape (because it builds up shape better, and holds together better over valleys), and then cover in 88, but 88 is perfectly permissible to use from bottom to top.

 

[Jim greengo]

I'd wrap them with the 88 1st,then get a roll of good rubber splicing tape,not the cheap stuff.
Give it 3-4 wraps with the rubber tape,then go over it all with the super 88 again.

 

[Marctrees]

OK Guys...

I may use a bit of Duct Tape to soften the sharper edges, then the #88 applied as I described.

I do recall using the self vulcanizing paper liner rubber tape years ago, topped w copious 88..

And the ?Varnished Cambric ? also.

PIA to cut the rubber taped ones open..

For that matter any taped Split Bolt.

We mainly used them for ?480 ?V motor stuffing boxes.

We also had 4160 Volt motors but I don't recall ever having to do one of those.

Shafts like 12" + dia.

Fun stuff !

That part of my work was about very early 1980's.

Thank you.

Marc

 

[Git]

I was going to mention the varnished cambric tape. I came across some in Amazon Warehouse and ended up buying it because it looked like it could be usefully

Here is a video I dug up from 3M. You would use the varnished cambric to prevent the sharp edges of the bolt from cutting through.

 

[rlitman]

...Here is a video I dug up from 3M. You would use the varnished cambric to prevent the sharp edges of the bolt from cutting through...

It's a good video that shows pretty good tape technique (there's a spot where I see wrinkling from insufficient tension). But even there, it says you can use Super 33+ on the inner layer. They suggest using it adhesive out for this purpose, because it makes taking the splice apart easier.

I still prefer the linedrubber tape for the weather seal (applied exactly as shown in the video, it MUST be stretched to properly adhere, and this is one reason that it cannot be used to wrap sharp corners). It's better than even the best of vinyl tapes, and I'm not sure I'd trust just vinyl tape in an underground box (where flooding is expected). But in a location you can trust to be dry, why not.

Ok, so here's a question for the group. For years, Scotch has been pushing their linerless self fusing rubber tape. Is it really as good as the old standard? I can't bring myself to try it.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I use linered tape also. It doesn't stick to the roll; just the splice
First, economy tape sticky side out so the rubber tape doesn't stick to the SB.
Then linered rubber tape.
Then self adhesive cambric.
Finally a quality tape like 33+ or 88.
(All by Scotch)

 

[Marctrees]

Self fusing or pseudo "vulcanizing" happens from contact AND some level of pressure.

So, it's hard to imagine they can produce tape w/o a separating liner...

That will self fuse as good as stuff that NEEDS a liner to not end up being a solid hockey puck ...

Specially after sitting in a Contractors truck in Phoenix for a summer.


I prefer proven old school ****, in all cases.

Only my opinion...

But logical to me.

The liner is sometimes a bit in the way,...

But nothing soooo awkward as to it being notably easier to use if there was no liner.

What say you ?

(AS the political pundits ask)

Marc

 

[alfredeneuman]

I pull the liner off as I go when installed, and it essentially becomes linerless.
That's why I use the cambric.

 

[awdblazer]

use some duct seal and make a nice ball out of it

 

[Marctrees]

Actually , I was considering a bit of that.

BUT.... ONLY if I feel the multilayers of 88 over that will contain the bit of ductseal, AND not creep over time.

It will all be good, I'm a pretty logical verryy detail oriented thinking guy.

Marc

 

[alfredeneuman]

Electrical tape, Ductape, and Ductseal were designed for completely different uses.
Guess which one was designed for insulating electrical connections.
Ductape fails at a lower temperature than electrical tape.
Ductseal was designed to block airflow only.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Last time I used a split bolt (probably over 35 years ago), I was told to use 2 layer of "friction" tape, like 3M 1755. Splice is crammed tightly in an exterior J-box. Been good for all this time !

 

[Marctrees]

Actually, for that matter, a bit of dogshit if I had no Ductseal, would, in reality, work.. do the job it is intended for just fine.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

I would like to use friction tape under the 88, but I'm old , occasionally cranky when dealing w people that think there is only ONE way to skin a cat, cheap and don't want to drive the 35 miles one way to get it.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Like alfred, I only buy 3M.

Never the imported ****.

Marc

 

[rlitman]

Like alfred, I only buy 3M.

Never the imported ****.

Marc

Some of the 3M tapes are imported, but they're all good, and like both of you, I don't waste my time on cheap tapes.

2 Major differences between dog **** and ductseal is that unlike ductseal, dog **** stinks and dries up +2 for ductseal

Jim, I think you should have contacted Git directly and tell him of your perceived persecution/butthurt, rather than post it in a topic about Taping Split Bolts

My concern with duct seal as a putty to pad the shape out would be plasticizer migration. Under pressure, I would expect duct seal to ooze, and that resulting ooze could cause the tape to turn prematurely gooey.

 

[Marctrees]

Years ago I tried Highland, it was OK, but still stayed w 88, sometimes 33.

Once, years ago, got a super cheap deal on a quantity of Plymouth Rubber brand "same stuff",..

After being installed for handfull of years proved to be very good also.


Yup, I agree w the ductseal comment possible oozing.

Thought about that last night and decided against using it.

I'll just pad it w like a bit of poly "cotton" ball or somethin.

All will be good.

Marc

 

[markushofer27]

Have they been there for some time ? U just wanna retake em?

 

[Marctrees]

It' will be a new job when I get fully pre staged and the Cajones to have them come and dump me.

A service re do/ upgrade, to re feed an exist panel.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

No rush, my house for myself, taking my time to do pre do EVERYTHING I can to limit my off time.

New upgrade service, setting everything up so that actually they can do me in one trip w only 20 minutes max donut coffee time for the POCO guys.

Split bolt taping is past the main disco, feed for a sub panel, so split bolts will be done after they re heat me.

Marc

 

[awdblazer]

if you tape the ductseal enough it doesnt ooze
i deal with tons of connections everyday that have ductseal and they dont ooze (high voltage cables, keeping the corona effect down with ductseal)

 

[rlitman]

if you tape the ductseal enough it doesnt ooze
i deal with tons of connections everyday that have ductseal and they dont ooze (high voltage cables, keeping the corona effect down with ductseal)

Good to know. But what sort of tape are you covering it with? Self sealing or premium vinyl like 88?

 

[alfredeneuman]

High Voltage is considered any voltage over 33,500V
Medium Voltage starts at 1000 and extends to 33,500
Low Voltage is anywhere between 120 and 1000
Extra-Low Voltage is from 0-120.

You use ductseal on high voltage?

 

[rlitman]

High Voltage is considered any voltage over 33,500V
Medium Voltage starts at 1000 and extends to 33,500
Low Voltage is anywhere between 120 and 1000
Extra-Low Voltage is from 0-120.

You use ductseal on high voltage?

He did mention the corona effect. That's not something seen much outside of high voltage.

 

[mbear]

I come from the utility world and I've seen ductseal used on " medium " voltage bolted connections prior to taping. If I remember correctly it was on some power transformer bushing connectors . 6.9kv bus .

 

[Marctrees]

The same cheap Ductseal, like GB brand for one, that is sold to Elec and HVAC guys?

That stuff ?

Or something similar, yet different ?

Marc

 

[mbear]

It was at a powerplant and it was standard warehouse issue stuff .

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have deleted posts to clean this thread up. Please leave the drama elsewhere.


Thanks for the cooperation.

 

[nadogail]

I have used Scotch Fill and fiberglass tape. Then I covered the whole thing with 88 and ScotchKote.

 

[Evan(CA)]

Scotchfil and 33+ is the correct way to do it. 88 is only used for phase marking around here.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Scotchfil and 33+ is the correct way to do it. 88 is only used for phase marking around here.

Only 88 if you mean to mark it black.
35 is the colored tape

 

[toplessHO]

I always file the sharp edges of the split bolts use cheap tape first wrap,followed by rubber,then aquaseal,then 3M 33+ or 88.

Reminds me of a time I was removing an old service(was only about 2 yrs old) and found this.
Code had been changed that you could no longer split the service entrance conductor and use a small split bolt to attach the lightning arrestor leads.
this meant that a 4/0 drop had to use 4/0 splitbolts vs the old style of #6 ones.
I was going to reuse the split bolts and split the tape open to find the arrestor wire woven into the 4/0 and a piece of romex neatly folded to look like a split bolt.
Guess they saved a couple bucks,but the arrestor was totally useless. Hacks!

 

[nsula_country]

Learned this from an old electrician. Don't know if it is legit, but it is how I do it. Also VERY easy to remove.

1 - Wrap split bolt with teflon tape.
2 - Wrap with 130C
3 - Wrap with 33
4 - Done, repeat with the others.

Have only performed this up to 480vac...

CT

 

[foolishpride]

Use a couple back-wrapped layers of Scotch 130C, and a layer of 88.

 

[foolishpride]

High Voltage is considered any voltage over 33,500V
Medium Voltage starts at 1000 and extends to 33,500
Low Voltage is anywhere between 120 and 1000
Extra-Low Voltage is from 0-120.

You use ductseal on high voltage?

High Voltage is 69 KV and above. Medium Voltage is 1000 to 69KV. We use ductseal on 15 KV Cable Terminations to fill in gaps before taping. And ductseal can leach out it's oily base compound over time.