Target tile saw Baldor motor

[bseant]

hey guys i bought a tile saw. The motor was working fine and then suddenly i turned it on and it wouldn't come up to speed. I got the cap checked out and it tested good. The guy i got it from seems like a real "Diy'er" if ya know what i mean. He had no clue. He painted a target tile saw yellow nuff said. LOL! i just want to check the wiring to see if it's correct but cant find this motor diagram anywhere. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[dogdog]

maybe it is wired for 240V

 

[6PTsocket]

If it worked fine and then quit, it is not wired for the wrong voltage. You don't need a diagram to check to see if all the terminals are tight, wiring is undamaged, etc. The start capacitor gets you going. If it runs but does not come up to speed it sounds like another issue. Is something binding, like a bad motor bearing or saw blade. Unplug it, take off the belt and try turning things by hand

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[bseant]

If it worked fine and then quit, it is not wired for the wrong voltage. You don't need a diagram to check to see if all the terminals are tight, wiring is undamaged, etc. The start capacitor gets you going. If it runs but does not come up to speed it sounds like another issue. Is something binding, like a bad motor bearing or saw blade. Unplug it, take off the belt and try turning things by hand

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Yup tried that everything runs smooth by hand. Took everything off and tried to run the motor with no load and the same thing.

 

[6PTsocket]

https://goo.gl/images/CzTkR9

I went to the Baldor download center and entered 35G74X606 off your motor plate and came up dry. From past experience I can tell you to call them and they will do their best to help with a diagram and troubleshooting suggestions. Most of their dual voltage motors have pretty much the same wiring. I gave you a link to a typical Baldor. The drawing shows the wires disconnected and the little box gives the connections for high snd low voltage and forward and reverse rotation. I suspect one of your two main windings might have a bad connection. That is 1-3 and 4-5. If you have a meter, separate the wires and take a resistance reading for each winding. They should be very similar. If you are not comfortable with that you may have to get local help. If it was not the cap it is probably inside the motor. There are two run windings and the start winding as well as the centrifugal switch that connects and disconnects the start capacitor. You are running so it is probably not the dual pole breaker but when tripped, they can be hard to reset and sometimes you hear the click and only one contact has reset. I was told "press hard until your finger turns blue. That got a dead Baldor going for me."

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[bseant]

yea i have been hitting dead ends with all the numbers on the nameplate. That's when i thought of garagejournal and johnbridge. Thanks for the effort!

 

[bseant]

I talked to a guy locally and he kinda told me the same as you. I gonna give it a shot and take it apart and see if i can see anything or maybe post some pics up here. I needed this tile saw to finish a project not be another one!LOL!

 

[American Locomotive]

Do you hear anything at all from the motor? Any kind of buzz or hum? If not, I would suspect you either have a bad power switch, or the thermal overload inside the motor has failed/tripped.

 

[6PTsocket]

Do you hear anything at all from the motor? Any kind of buzz or hum? If not, I would suspect you either have a bad power switch, or the thermal overload inside the motor has failed/tripped.

Read the original post again. The motor runs, it just does not come up to full speed. Bad power switch or thermal overload = dead motor.

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[bseant]

I took the power switch and the manual overload switch out of the loop and still same problem.

 

[6PTsocket]

It appears the problem is not external. SOMEBODY is going to have to look at that motor. The motor leads are marked with designations like T5 and T8 and often color coded, as well. Make a sketch of how they are wired and separate them. Take a meter and measure the windings. If you do not own one, the $6 (often free with any purchase) Harbor Freight is good enough. If you are unfamiliar with it's use, get local help. If the motor runs slow one of the two main windings is probably open or disconnected at the solder joint where the lead is attached to the winding or at the wire nut. If the winding itself is open, you probably need a motor repair shop. The other problems are usually a DIY job. Use the drawing I sent you as a guide. It should match up to the motor. If it does not, call Baldor. They have good customer service. Switches and overload problems result in a totally dead motor, not a slow one.

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[American Locomotive]

Read the original post again. The motor runs, it just does not come up to full speed. Bad power switch or thermal overload = dead motor.

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He said "Come up to speed", not "come up to full speed", which can have multiple meanings.

 

[6PTsocket]

He said "Come up to speed", not "come up to full speed", which can have multiple meanings.

OK. We each read it differently. He needs to clarify whether he means dead or slow. We just want to help him. Right?

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[bseant]

LOL! Potato Potato! Yes come up to full speed. I had a friend lend me his tile saw so this project will be on hold thankfully for a couple of days while i get some work done for the project which i bought this saw for. I will keep you guys updated. I'm pretty sure i need to replace the something in there.

But im pretty sure i wouldn't have said come up to speed if it was dead. I would have said won't turn on.LOL! Thanks guys!

 

[American Locomotive]

What I would do, is check the centrifugal switch inside the motor. Make sure the switch moves freely, and that it makes/breaks the electrical contacts properly. Also make sure the contacts are clean without any broken wires.