Taurus water pump leak

[uhcrandy]

I just changed son-in-laws water pump on 99 ford Taurus. 3.0 OHV ithought the block surface was cleaned and old gasket removed. All bolts torqued to specs, There is a leak from the bottom of the pump, look like the mating surface..ARRG! So on saturday I will be re-doing this..
questions
1. I Hi-tacked the gasket to the water pump. Is this right?
2. Should I use RTV on the side to the block?
3. What is book for time to replace a water pump?
4. Are pumps ever warped?

Thanks, I learn alot from you guys, so thanks!!!

 

[Leitnin]

I can only tell you whats worked for me with regards to preventing leaks on auto gaskets.

If the water pump has a grove for a bead of silicone, i usually use NO gasket at all, and just use whatever RTV is appropriate for the part. I would say this is more common on Japanese manufactured motors. It is extremely important that the surfaces be clean and DRY.

If the water pump does not have a groove, then it depends on the type of gasket. For paper gaskets, I may install the gasket with no RTV on either side or I may put a VERY LIGHT coating on both sides. This is usually an on the fly decision and there are no hard and fast rules. I have never had an RTV'ed paper gasket leak in a cooling system application, although I have rarely had one leak without the RTV either.

Recently it was suggested to me for particularly tricky gaskets that a better product to use in these applications might be Gasgacinch but I have ZERO first hand experience with it.

 

[caper]

If it's a paper gasket I usually give it a lite skiff of rtv,just enough that the gasket will stay on the pump and not fall off.If it's a rubber gasket/O-ring I usually use white grease to stick the gasket in place.There also may be some bolts that hold the water pump on which go into the water jacket.These bolts should have some pipe thread sealant applied to them to prevent leaks.

 

[MonsterMudder]

1) I usually use Hi-tack on the waterpump side, so the gasket will "In Theory" stick to the pump on the next install. Just a light film, enough to keep the gasket in place during install. The biggest thing is to make absolutely sure that the mating surfaces are clean of all gasket material and dry when you torque everything down.

2) I was always taught not to use RTV as a coating on either side of a paper gasket because it can allow the gasket to squirm out. I have never tried it, just going on passed down wisdom from other mechanics.

3) Book time DOHC 3.5 hrs SOHC 2.8 hrs.

4) I have never personally run across a warped pump surface, but with the "high quality" of replacement parts these days, who knows. To check if it is warped lay a good quality straightedge on the mating surface and shine a light on the back side and see if you can see the light coming through under the straightedge.

Also, I have been burned by a bad internal seal in the new pump that leaked out of the weep hole so you could also check that before re-installing the pump.

 

[jonny o]

Did you replace it because it was leaking?

 

[uhcrandy]

Did you replace it because it was leaking?

No I have had problems with rust in the system and poor functioning heater. The pump fins were rusting, although it should have been working still. I blew out the heater core with air and there was some crud that came out. Its working better now. The problem was wrong depth of bolt in one of the holes. I did not take it off, my son-in law did. It fixed now..Thanks for all your help