Tech and Lighting install help

[wcgolf]

So long story short I’m a General Contractor building my own house and I normally get my plans with everything ready to send to subcontractors. With that being said I’m a tech dummy when it comes to this stuff. I know how it goes in, but if I had to tell someone what they need I’d be lost as can be. So what I’m looking for is if you had the opportunity to wire your house from the start. What would you do? If you have looked at my thread in the garage gallery we are in a. Flood zone so basically 2 story house with all living on the main floor. I do want to the ability to have wireless downstairs or even wired but it has to be about 8.5’ off of the downstairs floor. We are so used to having the standard cable outlet that runs to our wireless router and just going with the flow. We have all smart tv’s and usual suspects for equipment in the house. I figure why not take the opportunity to set up hard wires to slid things while we have the option for streaming tv and such. We will have a smart thermostat but really haven’t got to thinking about smart switches and such in the house. We’re not going to spend the money on automated blinds and such so I’m not really worried about that sort of thing. What would you guys do?

With regards to the lighting we are going to be going all LED throughout and downstairs I’m a little lost on what I should do lighting wise. The drawings show a ton of light fixtures down there, but I’d really like to get away from box fixtures and go with a more recessed light. I know we can go with the new LED 1/2” thick cans which we are doing upstairs, but I’m
Not sure how many of those it would take to get the same amount of light much less which brightness to go with.

Thanks for the help guys!





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sberry]

2 things. While all that tech stuff is ok half the reason some like it is that the existing wiring doesn't permit modifications, was simple. I would run some extra 14 for some local switchable or even always on fixtures for passing thru or chores vs having to turn it all on with 1 switch. I have a couple 13 watts I leave on 2/4 7 and might be even less with led vs cfl but I make my way switchless till I need task lights. I spot has motion on it and 3 outdoor with photo cell or timer I can walk between any of 4 buildings at any time. Adds about 50 watts if I figured it all continuous but allows several people to move at all hours. I don't want to fart with finding remotes and switches, another gadget for it all. Cant even break even in years if the labor was free and only had to buy materials.

 

[sberry]

One of the easy things to do and doesn't cost much. I run power to the switch boxes and 3 conductor to the fixtures. I switch the red, the black could be switched or to provide power for automatics. Was handy recently on a job where someone changed their mind and needed power beyond, was super easy to get it from a fixture box.

 

[jeffmoss26]

run coax and cat5e or 6 everywhere...wifi gear still needs wires and it's a heck of a lot easier to just throw up blank plates then to try and retrofit years later.

 

[ard]

1. Do your research on the so-called “1/2 in thick LED ‘cans’”...they aren’t cans, they don’t light the same way, they will create glare from any angle in the room. People here disagree, and there has been lively debate. MAKE SURE you kno what they look like and feel like, not just web pictures. Enough said

2. I would run three wires to each and every utility ‘fluorescent’, and have each leg switched. So a PAIR of switches for each room. This will let you ‘bank’ the lights- half. And half, etc. **or** have one bulb in each fixture controlled by a switch. Half light/full light. One could plan on a dimmer, but then you need to buy dimmer-capabale tube LEDs.

3. Running lo voltage cables is nice..cat whatever.... but consider conduit runs AS WELL. If only from a spot in the wall up (or down) to an accessible crawl space or attic. I have had to add data cabling in may rooms- over and above what was put in 20 years ago.

4. I have now seen the wisdom of simple plasterboard rings (and not a closed box) for low voltage stuff. Being able to fish a hand or arm into the wall cavity is invaluable. Over time Ive had the hack out the old blue boxes, as Ive added things...

5. TAKE PICTURES. TAKE PICTURES. TAKE PICTURES. Of the framing. After plumbing. After wiring. I have hundreds of (film) pictures that have been utterly invaluable over the years as I’ve remodeled, added, fished... looked for studs...avoided stuff. Outside too. Ive lined up sighting to a 20 year old tree- like I am a CIA photo analyst- and said ‘dig here’. To find a water line or ‘future use conduit’.

5B. I had run wiring for alarm and audio, just coiling the wire in the stud bay. AND took a picture. Nothing feels better than cutting a single gang box hole, and reaching in to see wire that you last touched years ago....

6. Consider which lights you might want on ‘central control’...a wave, cooper, Luton, whatever. Make sure they are in the right place, make sure you have locations for the ‘main controller’. Doesn’t have to be crazy- could be ‘front yard/driveway, backyard/shop, upstairs, downstairs’. 4 buttons that ‘set’ the lights for those different scenes.

7. Fans. Looks like there is an attic over the living space. PUT THE FANS IN THE ATTIC. Why have a buzzing, inefficient fan sitting on the ceiling in your bathroom (or kitchen). Put a powerful fan in the attic, run ducting to (1) a vent in the WC and (2) a vent in the shower area. You will barely hear it. And you will get better ventilation of the room with more than one ‘intake’. Also you don’t need a $$$ ‘low sone’ fan, since it is up in the attic! Same w a kitchen exhaust. I have a 1400cfm fan on the outer all of the house, 20 feet from the stove. We can cook and talk.

8. Your plans are too small to really study. “Walk through’ the plans, visualize entering and leaving each room area, and how they will be lit- how to turn lights on and off. You should never need to backtrack

My 2 cents

 

[kd3pc]

adding to what ard says in 1.

If you use LEDs, get them all the same color, temp and so on and buy a few extra for spares/replacement, in case your manufacturer goes away.

 

[ard]

adding to what ard says in 1.

If you use LEDs, get them all the same color, temp and so on and buy a few extra for spares/replacement, in case your manufacturer goes away.

Interesting issue. IMO this also applies to incandescent, although there has been historically more standardization with ICs. (or perhaps the color temps of an IC bulb arent as 'sharp' as an LED?)

I bought lights in bulk, cases worth. Especially as they began ending some production. When you have a room w 6 matched lights, and one goes out, you want the same replacement. Even the pattern in the lens can look 'unmatched'. Maybe im a little nutty, but after one bulb in a set of 4 spots went out... Ive been known to pull 3 good bulbs, put them back in stock for 'replacements elsewhere', and re-bulb the 4 lights with the same freely-available bulb.

 

[wcgolf]

Appreciate the input guys. A lot of this has been taken into consideration for sure. We’ve installed plenty of the led 1/2” thick lights in other jobs. So the look and glare is not a concern. The majority of where they will be installed will be in tray ceilings so I think any glare will be minimized.

With regards to my situation with my down stairs. Is it just going to be the best situation to run hard wires down there and hook up another wireless router? In my two story homes before we really haven’t had an issue with signal loss on a different floor but this one is slightly larger by about double.

I’m also trying to figure out a good resolution for a 220 outlet down there for future welder but the outlet having to be over 8’ in the air causes major issues with that. I’m definitely adding cord reals for standard outlets, but that doesn’t seem like a great option for 220.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk