Tecumseh Carbs (snowblower)

[Johnny A]

Has anyone else have problems with these carbs after a few years?


I drain mine & run dry on the off season. I just found out Tecumseh is shut down & all parts are Oregon Corp Import parts.
I just ordered a carb (Oregon) & will replace the OEM one.


any input

 

[Hghgrad]

I used to keep 7-8 rebuild kits in the garage for all the tecumseh motors. Snow blower, generator, go cart...all of them would get 1-2 years out if the rebuild kit before the seals swelled and started causing problems. Probably the ethanol...tried a bit of everything and nothing ever seemed to stop it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Tecumseh got out of the engine business in 2007.

Most common parts are still available.

 

[Gary S]

I've not had any problems yet with my Tecumseh on my snowblower in the 17 years I've been running it. All I do each Spring is put in a bit of Stabil and mix it good with the fuel left in the tank. Then I shut off the gas and let the carb run empty. I have never put any corn syrup in the tank. It has had only pure gasoline.
Gas left in the carb without Stabil seems to mess up a carb in just a couple of years.

 

[Johnny A]

Thanks for the replies, I did a rebuild on one in 2009 & sure enough, it's acting up. I figured I just did not do a good job. Ran great until 2012...
Bought a Oregon Carb for $28.00 on Ebay from a seller that has a small engine shop. He even said that it's better & cheaper to slap a new carb on the unit & the customer is happy & shop time is not occupied to rebuild it.

My neighbor paid 96.00 for a oem tecumseh carb & when it arrived it was in an Oregon Inc box... That's when he told me Tecumseh went out of business...

 

[jkwilson]

Not a fan of Tecumseh engines. If you use them, steer clear of ethanol fuel. The O-rings around the emulsion tube just don't hold up, and draining or running it dry doesn't seem to help.

 

[Streetbu]

I run a small engine shop, ethanol is a killer and Tecumseh engines seem to be more prone to ethanol related issues than others. Rebuild or replace the carb, carb kit should be around $12 range, usually you can just blow some air up thru the main jet and clear it out. If the idle circuit is plugged though you'll be better off replacing it with an Oregon carb...

 

[nehog]

trying to run a carb dry is not a good move. There is always some gas left in the carb and the less fuel in the bowl, the more air, and the more air the more (quickly) the fuel deteriorates. Instead use a treatment such as Stabil and don't run dry. Ever since I started doing that I've had no more carb problems. Of course the other alternative is to start the snow blower every few months in the summer, to change the fuel in the carb.

 

[Streetbu]

What nehog said! BUT don't use the red Stabil! It does NOTHING for the ethanol, use the Marine Stabil, it's blue. 1 ounce for 5 gallons of gas, use it all the time, NOT just when your storing it. You don't have to use it in your daily driven vehicle since that has so much gas flushed thru it weekly...

 

[ADSR]

Tecumseh got out of the engine business in 2007.

Great to hear. I hate them. I've never had any luck with them at all.

 

[Johnny A]

Thanks for all the info. I actually bought Starbrite fuel stabilizer tonight after Sreetbu replied. I will leave the treated fuel in it & run once a month.

Thanks Guys! I have learned so much on this site!!

 

[SALIV8]

Wow what timing. My Tecumseh snowblower just quit workin 2 days ago. I have to pull it apart think its a carb issue..

would you mind posting the eBay seller of the Oregon carbs if you were happy?
Thanks..

 

[thebreeze2012]

I have a early 90's JD snowblower (original owner) with a Tecumseh 5hp(4 stroke) and have never had a carb problem, it always starts right up.

I use that ethanol **** also, no where to get straight gas around here.

I always store it with a full tank of gas with seafoam, I tried the run it out of gas on a different yard machine that was just about as old and always started and that was a huge Mistake, I'll never do that again, I couldn't believe the **** that I found inside the carb.

 

[Flivver250]

While Kohler anf Briggs make the best small engines, I am not a Tecumseh hater. I have run the ever living **** out of them with good luck. Yes, their carbs are more finicky, but I am sorry to see them go. Cheap engine company gone the way ot the dinosaur and no new US company to replace them. Anyone remember Clinton engines? Oddly enough my Tecumseh ignition system on a tiller just quit, but it is very old.

 

[Flivver250]

I seem to remember the kids with Tecumseh powered minibikes were leader of the pack.

 

[DenisG]

trying to run a carb dry is not a good move. There is always some gas left in the carb and the less fuel in the bowl, the more air, and the more air the more (quickly) the fuel deteriorates. Instead use a treatment such as Stabil and don't run dry. Ever since I started doing that I've had no more carb problems. Of course the other alternative is to start the snow blower every few months in the summer, to change the fuel in the carb.

Sorry, I don't agree. I once worked for a company that made gasket material. One of our customers required that we test materials in xylene and measure swelling. Rubber products eventually break down when in constant contact with solvents. Plastisizers (used in compounding the rubber) eventually leach out and the rubber dries and embrittles. (There are many other ways that rubber compounds deteriorate, but I believe that is one important one.)

 

[dmeadow]

I recently sold a shredder/chipper that was powered by a Tecumseh motor. It had sat unused for a couple of years and, yes, I had drained the fuel before storage. It had only been used 3 or 4 times before that. I had to rebuild the carb to get it to run so I could sell it.

In contrast, I have a gas-powered tiller and a gas-powered pressure washer that were both stored at the same time. I just put some fuel in and they both started immediately. They both have Honda engines. I kept them.

 

[77thor]

I'm bummed after reading through this thread... I always though Tecumseh engines were good.

I've got a 5 year old Ariens Snowblower with a Tecumseh engine and so far (knock on wood) it's never given me any trouble; starts right up with one pull in any weather.

I run Sta-Bil in my gas all the time and run the carb dry at the end of every season.

 

[tdkkart]

I'm bummed after reading through this thread... I always though Tecumseh engines were good.

I've got a 5 year old Ariens Snowblower with a Tecumseh engine and so far (knock on wood) it's never given me any trouble; starts right up with one pull in any weather.

I run Sta-Bil in my gas all the time and run the carb dry at the end of every season.

The engines are fine, I've always said a Briggs carb would fix all the Tecumseh engine's problems. Problem is the Briggs diaphragm carbs aren't worth a damn in the winter, the rubber diaphragm stiffens up and won't pump fuel, which is why you rarely see a Briggs on a snow blower.

You'll have alot better luck if you DON'T run the carb dry.

 

[nehog]

Sorry, I don't agree. I once worked for a company that made gasket material. One of our customers required that we test materials in xylene and measure swelling. Rubber products eventually break down when in constant contact with solvents. Plastisizers (used in compounding the rubber) eventually leach out and the rubber dries and embrittles. (There are many other ways that rubber compounds deteriorate, but I believe that is one important one.)

I don't recall mentioning xylene, but for the record I'd not put it in my engines!

 

[CJKaz]

FWIW, my 35 year old Tecumseh powered snowblower (John Deere / Ariens built) runs its *** off. Never had the head off, doesn't burn or leak any oil.

Replaced the carb after an unsuccessful attempt at an overhaul two years ago (not worth the effort). Oregon carb is running perfectly. Stabil Ethanol additive used for the last 5 years.

Guess they're not all junk?

 

[jkwilson]

I don't recall mentioning xylene, but for the record I'd not put it in my engines!

Gasoline contains xylene.

 

[jkwilson]

This is what ethanol does to the parts in a carb. The two pieces on the right are the remnants of the emulsion tube O-rings in a Tecumseh carb. The one on the left is a new O-ring. Fairly low hours on the engine. It will do the same thing to the liner in a fuel line.

 

[e-tek]

Sorry, I don't agree. I once worked for a company that made gasket material. One of our customers required that we test materials in xylene and measure swelling. Rubber products eventually break down when in constant contact with solvents. Plastisizers (used in compounding the rubber) eventually leach out and the rubber dries and embrittles. (There are many other ways that rubber compounds deteriorate, but I believe that is one important one.)

What part don't you agree with? nehog has it Bang On when he said less fuel, more air = faster fuel deteriorates....and THAT is one of the problems, not so much swelling or rubber deterioration (but that is also a problem). The Tecumseh engines either have smaller, or oddly shaped, orifices that cause deteriorated fuels to gum up/clog easier than others.

Case in point: I bought a used Ariens blower with the Tecumseh engine. Guy said it needed a tune up, but after a few threads here (thanks!), I found it was just old fuel and a gummed up carb. A bunch of Seafoam and FRESH (clear) gas and it runs perfectly now. They don't even like slightly yellowing gas (a few months old) it seems.

Gas in some areas doesn't last 2 months in poor containers. If air/humidity/condensation can get at it, it's no good - for these engines. That's why Stabil works so well to correct the gas and Seafoam can help clean a dirty carb.

 

[e-tek]

FWIW, my 35 year old Tecumseh powered snowblower (John Deere / Ariens built) runs its *** off. Never had the head off, doesn't burn or leak any oil.

Replaced the carb after an unsuccessful attempt at an overhaul two years ago (not worth the effort). Oregon carb is running perfectly. Stabil Ethanol additive used for the last 5 years.

Guess they're not all junk?

Non are junk - you used Stabil, end of story.

 

[tdkkart]

This is what ethanol does to the parts in a carb. The two pieces on the right are the remnants of the emulsion tube O-rings in a Tecumseh carb. The one on the left is a new O-ring. Fairly low hours on the engine. It will do the same thing to the liner in a fuel line.

In Iowa we've had ethanol in our fuel since I was in high school(1980-ish), I've never seen fuel system components that looked anything like that.
I do believe ethanol fuel degrades faster in storage, and it does cause some some drive-ability problems in some vehicles, but I have never seen destroyed fuel system components that I believed or could prove were caused by ethanol.

 

[tdkkart]

Gas in some areas doesn't last 2 months in poor containers.

This is a good point to make. Storing fuel in plastic containers is a bad idea. Certain chemical components of gasoline will evaporate right through a plastic container. If you MUST use plastic, make sure it is not translucent(make sure you can't see through it), but sealed metal containers are far better for long term storage.

 

[Shockwave179]

The engines are fine, I've always said a Briggs carb would fix all the Tecumseh engine's problems. Problem is the Briggs diaphragm carbs aren't worth a damn in the winter, the rubber diaphragm stiffens up and won't pump fuel, which is why you rarely see a Briggs on a snow blower.

You'll have alot better luck if you DON'T run the carb dry.

All of the new snowblowers either have Briggs or Chinese engines from what I've seen.

 

[tdkkart]

All of the new snowblowers either have Briggs or Chinese engines from what I've seen.

Yes, Briggs has switched to a float style carb on the overhead valve motors. Probably less reliable in the long run, but does provide for easier starting and better mixture control. The Chinese engines are mostly Honda copies that use float carbs also.
You can buy a whole new chinese engine at Harbor Freight for what a repair shop will want for just a carb.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

IDK, other the the classic Snow King idle surge which is easily tuned out, I don't have any major complaints about Tecumsehs. At least not Snow Kings...

Tommy

 

[DenisG]

What part don't you agree with? nehog has it Bang On when he said less fuel, more air = faster fuel deteriorates....and THAT is one of the problems, not so much swelling or rubber deterioration (but that is also a problem). The Tecumseh engines either have smaller, or oddly shaped, orifices that cause deteriorated fuels to gum up/clog easier than others.

Case in point: I bought a used Ariens blower with the Tecumseh engine. Guy said it needed a tune up, but after a few threads here (thanks!), I found it was just old fuel and a gummed up carb. A bunch of Seafoam and FRESH (clear) gas and it runs perfectly now. They don't even like slightly yellowing gas (a few months old) it seems.

Gas in some areas doesn't last 2 months in poor containers. If air/humidity/condensation can get at it, it's no good - for these engines. That's why Stabil works so well to correct the gas and Seafoam can help clean a dirty carb.

I'm with the "run it dry" crowd. Rubber has a limited life with respect to solvents and fuels. Less contact --> longer life. That was my only point of disagreement.

 

[Streetbu]

As a small engine shop manager i hear both sides from customers. Half run them dry, other half top them off with gas. I say whatever works for you keep doing it. If it stops working, change your routine. I personally leave whatever gas is in the tank there and use Marine Stabil for storage AND during use.

 

[kelpaso1]

Yes, Briggs has switched to a float style carb on the overhead valve motors. Probably less reliable in the long run, but does provide for easier starting and better mixture control. The Chinese engines are mostly Honda copies that use float carbs also.
You can buy a whole new chinese engine at Harbor Freight for what a repair shop will want for just a carb.

Which tells you the quality. China **** ***** and you get what you pay for.
From: owner and tech of a small engine repair shop.