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Tell me about Hacksaws

T45

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I need a general shop saw, and something that can deal with cutting exotics (hardened steel, stainless, cfrp, etc) and making precision cuts, as well as everyday "hacksaw" stuff. Everybody loves the Bahco 319/325 but they are pricy, and even more so in Snap On guise. Napa has a decent looking one available via Cripe's, any opinions on this? Its about half the cost.

http://www.cripedistributing.com/me...33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/0/400518730927.JPG

Can ya'll explain to me how to evaluate a hacksaw design?

edit: another for comparison

http://www.cripedistributing.com/me...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/8/0/80965b_001.jpg
 
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greyjasper51

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im no hacksaw expert but id say as long as it doesnt twist your fairly alright, the blades are the bit that does the work, we have eclipse blades at work and i think they are the nuts 30tpi is slow but does leave an awesome cut
 

zkling

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Between those the Nicholson. The compound tensioner really helps.

Best hack saw... a port a band. :lol:
 

Rileysan

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20 years ago, Lenox used to make one of the best hacksaws on the market (Snap-on and Mac rebranded them). I don't know about their newest products, but a quick search on eBay shows them in the $20-$30 range.

Brian
 

rodsnratfinks

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I have a Lenox hack saw. It's great. I tried about 10 different ones before settling on this one. To me, a hack saw needs to have a lot of torsional rigidity, high blade tension (compound mechanisms work best), easy to change blades, and light weight. This saw has all those things.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 

motomaniac

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I have that Nicholson and it's a nice saw. It goes on sale at Sears a few times a year for around 12 bucks I believe.
I also like that you can store spare blades in the back bone of the saw.
 
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PoorOwner

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Do you set the blade to cut on pull or push? Or just depends on the situation?
 

drink

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I need a general shop saw, and something that can deal with cutting exotics (hardened steel, stainless, cfrp, etc) and making precision cuts, as well as everyday "hacksaw" stuff. Everybody loves the Bahco 319/325 but they are pricy, and even more so in Snap On guise. Napa has a decent looking one available via Cripe's, any opinions on this? Its about half the cost.

http://www.cripedistributing.com/me...33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/0/400518730927.JPG

Can ya'll explain to me how to evaluate a hacksaw design?

edit: another for comparison

http://www.cripedistributing.com/me...ab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/8/0/80965b_001.jpg

You have a humdinger of a question. Personally I have used hacksaws my entire life on an as needed basis. In other words, nothing fancy but I have cut a lot of stuff over the years. I have used a plain Craftsman hacksaw that came with my tool set back in the 1970's and it still works. Eventually I purchased some of the high tension saws and they went through blades really fast. The high tension Craftsman saws would cut good though. Then I bought an Allen tool set and added a hacksaw to it. The saw looked like the old fashioned Sears version with an adjustable frame and a low price compared to some. I could not have been more satisfied with the Allen adjustable hacksaw. My Armstrong tool set came with a saw like the Allen also and now Armstrong ships the Nicholson version of it.
 

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zkling

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Traditionally they are to be installed so they cut on a push stroke as you can get more force both downward and travel into the work. BUT this is usually assumed that the work piece is being cut on a bench and you are standing over the item. Thus pushing will be much easier than trying to pull towards you and push the blade down into the work.

There are instances where it is beneficial to put it on "backwards", primarily when cutting over head. I personally also find it easier for more control for precise cuts when the blade is installed to cut on the pull stroke.

Also note, that some saws are designed to be used only with a push cut. These have a hinged joint and multiple notches to allow different blade styles. The more modern rigid frame models will cut equal in both push and pull.
 
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drink

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I found a Nicholson at Jet.com with 15% off with coupon code 15NOW. They have other saws available also. Maybe you can price shop them and try to find the best deal. Some of the saws on Jet have free shipping.

https://jet.com/product/Nicholson-H...lastic-Handl/48c08c68af454deb9b514c486832f21f

https://jet.com/search?term=nicholson hacksaw

https://jet.com/product/Hacksaw-Hi-Tens-Frm-12In-12Pt/8e1aa721bddd4db28e8f733f832d3585

What do you think? Years ago I was cutting some alloy rod with a high tension saw and the blade wore out instantly even though it was made to cut alloy. Then I used the same blade on the blue handled saw and it cut right through the alloy and cut the remaining pieces without having to change blades. I like them.
 

drink

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They are the same saw with different packaging. However, you will need to ask Armstrong if they made them with better steel when they put their brand names on them.
 

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pendragon1998

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shopping


I have the older Stanley fatmax model, and it has served well. You may have to search around to locate one, as they were discontinued for a different model.


Some of the listed features (that I like and recommend) are:

Durable, one-piece body is designed for ultra-high tension of 330 lb. (150kg)

Pre-tensioning mechanism holds blade in place for quick and easy blade changes

Power load sliding tension delivers added leverage when increasing tension and control when releasing blade

Contoured handle and front thumb grip are ergonomically designed for control

Large cutting capacity – up to 4-3/4" throat depth for extra deep cutting

I like the high tension factor. I think it cuts better with it. I especially like how the black part (metal) on the heel snaps down and creates the tension.

Btw, I like lenox bi-metal hacksaw blades.
 
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four.cycle

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gah! just find an old Craftsman or Stanley that doesn't do the bendy-twisty thing when you lean into it. garage sale. Craigslist.
no need to get all fancy-schmantzy - it's a hacksaw!
 

dodge610

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I thought this one looked kind of goofy when I first saw it, and then I used it and realized it's awesome. Not sure what makes it better then ones I've used in the past, but it just is.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZZ8Y8K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That ergonomic handsaw is great i got one of those a few years back and love it. Got it off overstock.com i think it is even nicer than my old school craftsman. Which i thought i would never be able to replace.:)
 

firworks

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This is what I can tell you about hacksaws. The crazy (scary possibly?) old lady I bought my house from had hacksaws in just about every room and place. The shed had like 8 of them in it. The garage had probably 10. I have no idea what she was doing with all these hacksaws but it may have been no good. I still have a pile on a shelf in the garage.
 

dodge610

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This is what I can tell you about hacksaws. The crazy (scary possibly?) old lady I bought my house from had hacksaws in just about every room and place. The shed had like 8 of them in it. The garage had probably 10. I have no idea what she was doing with all these hacksaws but it may have been no good. I still have a pile on a shelf in the garage.

About time for a yard sale then. I can see the ad in the paper now yard sale tools also have bunch of hacksaws everything priced to sell.
 
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rlitman

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I'm with Pendragon1998 on the FatMax. Very confortable to use, cuts deep and straight. Had a Lenox for years and loved it but it seemed to follow someone else home


As am I. They use a cam tensioning mechanism that works like a vise grip. Best setup out there. I've got the old yellow one.
 

uart

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What do you think? Years ago I was cutting some alloy rod with a high tension saw and the blade wore out instantly even though it was made to cut alloy. Then I used the same blade on the blue handled saw and it cut right through the alloy and cut the remaining pieces without having to change blades. I like them.

A hacksaw is just a frame to hold the blade. You want it to be comfortable and ergonomic, and rigid enough to hold the blade with sufficient tension for the job at hand. Other than that however it's the blade does all the work.

The main reason for wearing blades quickly is using too lower tooth count (TPI) for the thickness and hardness of the material being cut (that and of course cheap rubbish blades). Thinner metal works better with a higher TPI, and generally likewise for harder metals.

Having more tension than needed might have made a difference by making the blade more rigid and less able to absorb the shock and impacts that tend to break teeth, though usually too lower TPI is the primary issue. Remember also that when starting a cut you're often working on a corner or thinner section of the metal, and that's the prime time to damage the blade.

Whether the frame is advertised as being "high tension" or otherwise, the amount of tension that you choose to place on the blade is your decision. Like I said before, it needs to be rigid enough for the job at hand.
 
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T45

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Are there good guidelines about setting tension for different materials or use cases?
 

uart

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Are there good guidelines about setting tension for different materials or use cases?

Not that I know of. I usually just apply whatever tension I need to stop the blade flexing too much. If I'm cutting something where I'll be using slightly heavier force, or if I need twist it to cut a slight bend, then I usually use a bit more tension.
 

tube_guy

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Anyone have recommendations for a good high-tension hacksaw that accepts 10 in. blades? Most only use 12 in. now that the Klein 701-10 has been discontinued.
 

drink

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I have several hacksaws and I have used them all. After using them I have reached for the saw like the Nicholson first many times. What can I say? It got the work done quickly with fewer blades and I was not as tired. I do not know if I have been doing work like you do though. Why not buy both and compare them? Then you can tell how tired you are and how many blades you used doing it so the rest of us will know. Have you ever had a hacksaw salesman say, "you won't be able to cut your way out of jail with that thing!"


http://www.zoro.com/lenox-hacksaw-f...gclid=CO74k-rDyskCFUwkgQodmOcOpA&gclsrc=aw.ds


http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10in...handle/p-00936131000P?redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL
 

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martin666

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Use any one of these 3 with no preference, not a fan of Kobalt ( post USA Williams stuff ) but this saw is as good as the Snap On or the OEM of the Snap On pictured. Don't remember the price of the Kobalt but it wasn't much
 

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bonneyman

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I found this old goat for $1 and - after cleaning and handle refinishing - it's in the rotation. Works just fine.
 
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colin39

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I have the facom 601 in the work van and the 603 in tool box, both dam fine hackysaws
 

Dave455

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20 years ago, Lenox used to make one of the best hacksaws on the market (Snap-on and Mac rebranded them). I don't know about their newest products, but a quick search on eBay shows them in the $20-$30 range.

Brian

Back in the 80's (maybe early 90's) Snap On used to offer a saw frame they called a 'High Tension' Hacksaw!

I never bought one, I mean why would you pay Snap On money for a hacksaw? But since then I've seen 'em around and wow, this is what I want! Better than anything else I've seen! Unfortunately most seem to be in the paws of aircraft engineers who don't part with tools till you prise their cold dead hands... etc etc!

Was this the frame that Lenox made?

With regard to blades, I have an old mechanical hacksaw that uses regular blades!

It's a useful tool, especially for determining the best blades, as it takes the user out of the equation!

Sandvik blades have (or at least had - havn't bought any for a bit) awesome life, but on my machine often tended to cut at an angle! I wonder how many folks have made a cut thinking 'I can't cut straight today, when it was actually the fault of the blade!

I've never had any issues with Eclipse or Starrett and generally have one or the other around!

It's worth, in fact pretty much essential, to have blades in 18, 24, and 32 TPI.

If I ever find decent quality surplus blades I always buy 'em irrespective of the toothcount! They get used eventually!

Years back, Eclipse used to make a thing called a sheetsaw or somesuch! It was a flat saw like a wood saw that took a hacksaw blade! Unlike a hacksaw, however, you could cut through a wide sheet of almost anything! I'm still on the lookout for one!
 
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lilcraigford

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Back in the 80's (maybe early 90's) Snap On used to offer a saw frame they called a 'High Tension' Hacksaw!

...

Was this the frame that Lenox made?

Is this the hacksaw (Snap On HS20) you're thinking of?

$_1.JPG


I'm not sure if Lenox was the manufacturer, but the Snap On HS20 is the same as the older Lenox 4012:

s-l1000.jpg


Both are USA made. I snagged a USA Lenox 4012 like the one above off of eBay. The 4012 was updated with a more ergonomic design then eventually replaced by the HT50. I'm not sure if the "ergonomic" 4012 was still made here:

3123sxLs9IL.jpg
 

Rileysan

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Checking threads on hack saws, the only thing I can find over the past two years are threads asking for advice on choosing one. As such, I think I'll highjack this thread for the purpose of "Show me"

I picked up yet another hack saw yesterday at ReStore for $2. It is a vintage P&C saw - the likes of which I have never seen before.

Enjoy some pictures of my collection of unrestored (read: somewhat ugly) hack saws.

Brian

Pix 1 & 2 - P&C Model #1354 hack saw
Pix 3 & 4 - "Universal" with cast handle hack saw.
Pix 5 & 6 - "Crescent" hack saw with stamped steel handle
Pic 7 - Stanley USA Model # 15-265 hack saw
 

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Rileysan

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Pix 1 & 2 - Craftsman (unknown model) hack saw.
Pix 3 & 4 - Craftsman "crown top" logo hack saw. Interesting thing about this one - it came in my Craftsman master tool kit I purchased back in the late 80s. I thought the crown top logo was discontinued in the early 70s. Can anyone comment?
Pix 5, 6, & 7 - Vintage Craftsman hack saw with amber handle. I would guess that this one is uncommon, if not rare. Anyone have an opinion?

Brian
 

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Jazz1

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Pix 1 & 2 - Craftsman (unknown model) hack saw.
Pix 3 & 4 - Craftsman "crown top" logo hack saw. Interesting thing about this one - it came in my Craftsman master tool kit I purchased back in the late 80s. I thought the crown top logo was discontinued in the early 70s. Can anyone comment?
Pix 5, 6, & 7 - Vintage Craftsman hack saw with amber handle. I would guess that this one is uncommon, if not rare. Anyone have an opinion?

Brian

I have a Challenger hacksaw identical to your Craftsman..I know mine is over 35 years old. I dropped saw the other day and grips popped off,,it just snaps back together..thats when I cleaned up handle and realized brand,,,it had 35 years of dirt, overspray. Says EASCO on the opposite grip
 

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Rileysan

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Pix 1 & 2 - "Popular Mechanics" hack saw. The style/shape of the handle is almost exactly the same as my Craftsman amber handled saw. Perhaps the same manufacturer?

Pix 3 & 4 - Lennox 1210. My favorite and most used hack saw.

Brian
 

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