too humid for thatCan you install a swamp cooler?
too humid for thatCan you install a swamp cooler?
Bummertoo humid for that
I trimmed off the usual BS, here it is below.I'm not really a fan of their quote. I would want a model #, especially if you have that may different units being quoted.
There's no description of the work to be done. Is it just the outdoor unit, air handler, maybe line set and connect to existing duct? Or redoing some duct?
The variable speed compressor is nice. I don't really need it for cooling but they are great for heating in Midwest winters. Heating probably isn't the bigger concern for you. You are locked into their thermostat.
Nice thing about the 1 and 2 stage units is simpler to troubleshoot and repair. Generally don't heat as well as low temperature.

you're also at 2900ft of elevation in a semi-arid environment that gets 14" annual rainfall, we're at 650ft getting 38" annual rainfall. elevation makes a huge differenceBummer
Its all we use here.
Hey neighbor. Wow. Those units are expensive. I keep thinking my central air is “brand new” but I had it installed in 1995 for $5,000.
pretty sure I’m going mini split or window units when it dies.
till then, they can have my mercury thermostat when they pry it out of my cold, dead, hands.
since I just got back from my extended trip, I haven't had time to contact any other vendors. but I will be checking with other installers and seeing what kind of packages they are offering.Damn 9K?!! I put in a new unit for 5500 in my home 2Ksqft Cape back in 2019, but seems crazy they would jump 4K in that time, but the "C" word did weird things.

3109 ft actully. I didnt know your area was so wetyou're also at 2900ft of elevation in a semi-arid environment that gets 14" annual rainfall, we're at 650ft getting 38" annual rainfall. elevation makes a huge difference
the mountain range south and west of you prevents most of that ocean water from reaching you as rain. here, it's just a gradual slope up from the gulf 150 miles away. at least it ain't Houston with all that humidity3109 ft actully. I didnt know your area was so wet
Looks like Atlas is the cheapest by a longshot.ok, so I requested estimates online and 4 a/c companies responded. gave each one the exact same info about the house, age of unit, plans to sell house so probably just need Good & Better not Best, whether system is eligible for the IRS $2k write-off, etc, and these are the responses I got.
I've stripped out i.d.'ing info from the estimates so as to not embarrass any one company. I'm interested in what our GJ forum members who are HVAC professionals think of these estimates, the equipment being spec'd, and whether I am missing something I should be asking about. If relevant, locale for the pricing given is Central Texas.
ok, so I requested estimates online and 4 a/c companies responded. gave each one the exact same info about the house, age of unit, plans to sell house so probably just need Good & Better not Best, whether system is eligible for the IRS $2k write-off, etc, and these are the responses I got.
I've stripped out i.d.'ing info from the estimates so as to not embarrass any one company. I'm interested in what our GJ forum members who are HVAC professionals think of these estimates, the equipment being spec'd, and whether I am missing something I should be asking about. If relevant, locale for the pricing given is Central Texas.
Looks like Atlas is the cheapest by a longshot.
Those are all standard "box swap" quotes.
Where's the load calculation?
Some manufacturers have lineset tables in the equipment specs that do allow the use of "undersized" linesets in some applications. Length is the issue. There is some capacity loss.
You can spend a bunch of time futzing through the AHRI website with some of the information provided to get the actual tested capacity.
The SEER **** is meaningless if the ductwork cannot handle the airflow. It looks like they are matching the evaporator coil to the equipment size, and one normally needs to go at least 0.5 tons larger and a larger blower to even get close to the claimed SEER numbers.
Do not buy high SEER unless they provide you with an AHRI match certificate, and verify the model numbers. Again, if the ductwork is undersized, you won't get the claimed SEER number, no matter what the certificate says.
And because Four Seasons Heating and Cooling near Chicago will **** you out of your 10 year parts warranty if you do not get the equipment serviced annually by them, you better check the fine print on that stuff. You also need to check equipment registration yourself. You would get an email stating that it is registered (customer info is required during the registration process). Do NOT assume that they will do it for you.
There is normally a web address for registration in the factory warranty lingo, easily found.
Not sure if it is "required". Some places it might be.is a load calculation required if simply doing a box swap?
Refrigerant flow would be less.I spoke to one of the other companies on a followup and mentioned the "linesize" item pointed out by the other contractor. He stated that on a larger 4-5 ton install he has seen a performance loss but only of a couple percentage points. On a 2-ton unit it should be negligible. my understanding is the line size is what contributes to not delivering enough freon/coolant flow and this causes the performance loss. correct?
my guess on the length of that line is around 15-20ft max through the slab for this ground-floor unit.
As I understand it, they actually test equipment combinations.so you're saying take the provided model info and go thru the AHRI website to see actual tested capacity? does this mean they don't actually test the specific units, but in reality just derive the calculated SEER #'s etc from design specs?
Problem area is in bold.why would the ductwork not be able to handle the airflow if I'm simply replacing like-for-like (assuming it was done properly 40 yrs ago)?
Government rebates do not care if the equipment is installed properly or not. California ended Title 24 rebates years ago that were based upon paper matches because actual energy consumption went up, not down, due to ****** installs. Now there are test in, test out requirements. These reports need to be generated by the test equipment to eliminate or at least make it really hard to forge results.and if I get the AHRI certificate, whether I get the claimed SEER or not, I'm guessing the IRS will still approve a tax credit on my tax return?
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Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit | Internal Revenue Service
If you make home improvements for energy efficiency, you may qualify for an annual tax credit up to $3,200.www.irs.gov
It isn't just "No Lemon".yeah a "No Lemon" guarantee is worthless unless the company stands behind it. I've already been looking at multiple sites for reviews of these companies and have seen some of the "gotchas" people are complaining about. I look at the reviews, I look at the responses by the company, I throw out the obvious ******** stuff to come up with a "true review profile", which is usually a lower average than what the site shows.
as for warranty transferability, my one callback so far mentioned that Texas passed a law a few years ago that requires a warranty to be transferable to the new homeowner. I'll be verifying that and if not true that company will have points deducted from my selection process. Though they did say the company would need to be notified of new owner if home is sold.
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one of the guys that showed up was the owner/installer. I know he has a crew but whether he would be there personally I do not know. suppose I could always make it a condition of the contract that HE has to be there.Honestly the good, better, best thing doesn't appeal to me. The first and last quote just seem like a lot of marketing.
I want a quote done by the guy installing and servicing equipment. Not a salesman.
is a load calculation required if simply doing a box swap?
Not sure if it is "required". Some places it might be. In any event, why not?
I spoke to one of the other companies on a followup and mentioned the "linesize" item pointed out by the other contractor. He stated that on a larger 4-5 ton install he has seen a performance loss but only of a couple percentage points. On a 2-ton unit it should be negligible. my understanding is the line size is what contributes to not delivering enough freon/coolant flow and this causes the performance loss. correct?
my guess on the length of that line is around 15-20ft max through the slab for this ground-floor unit.
hmmm, is it possible for me as a consumer to call up the manufacturer and ask these questions?Refrigerant flow would be less.
The manufacturer spec would tell if the configuration is allowed, or not.
why would the ductwork not be able to handle the airflow if I'm simply replacing like-for-like (assuming it was done properly 40 yrs ago)?
I can't remember if it was checked last time system was replaced in '99. I've slept since thenProblem area is in bold.
Government rebates do not care if the equipment is installed properly or not. California ended Title 24 rebates years ago that were based upon paper matches because actual energy consumption went up, not down, due to ****** installs. Now there are test in, test out requirements. These reports need to be generated by the test equipment to eliminate or at least make it really hard to forge results.
The equipment may not actually need to be installed, either. Depends on requirements to get the gubment cheese.
It isn't just "No Lemon".
Some companies will void the manufacturer parts warranty if you do not have annual service visits. Four Seasons (Chicago) is one of those ****** companies.
Manufacturer warranty verbiage does not normally void parts coverage if annual visits are not performed... but there is usually room to do so, IF they choose.
you mention "wholesalers". I assume this term is equivalent to HVAC retailer/installer who obtains the part from the manufacturer?That said, performing warranty service on "foreign" equipment (stuff I did not install) is a pain. Many wholesalers will do it, but on a pay for part and get refunded later basis. Sometimes, the refund is a credit, which can ****. "Later" can be a while, and some parts are actually sent back to the manufacturer and checked before credit is issued. Some will charge a fee to the contractor to do a warranty part exchange if they did not sell the equipment. Customers do not want to pay now and maybe get refunded later, so that ends a lot of warranty part discussions.
hmmm, is it possible for me as a consumer to call up the manufacturer and ask these questions?
does a client normally pay for it to be done? assuming it was done properly 40 yrs ago, and there have been no remodels, etc, is there any reason for the load to change?A load calculation would be great. If you are having 4 companies quote then I would expect to pay for the load calculation.
no doubt they are using the existing lines which run through the slab.
does a client normally pay for it to be done? assuming it was done properly 40 yrs ago, and there have been no remodels, etc, is there any reason for the load to change?
If I was the only one quoting the job then I wouldn't charge for it separately.does a client normally pay for it to be done? assuming it was done properly 40 yrs ago, and there have been no remodels, etc, is there any reason for the load to change?
the original units in 1984 were Lennox , SEER 9, that's all I know. apparently that was good for back then. considering our neighborhood was built outside city ETJ and was considered upscale, I wouldn't be surprised if those were high-end units then.If I was the only one quoting the job then I wouldn't charge for it separately.
I would say the chances of everything being sized properly 40 years ago are slim. That's what I notice in my area anyway.
Even if the duct was sized properly for the old equipment, the new stuff will usually need more airflow if you want it to meet it's efficiency rating. The only good part is that the old equipment was usually oversized, hopefully with duct to match. So when you put in smaller new equipment you have a chance at having enough duct
don't know if required but none of the respondents mentioned it. I'll check with local code. if required, ok, if not then tell the winner it's required as part of the deal. if we have to upsize equipment at that point, ok.I don't do it unless I get the job, and specify this.
If the person wants a load calculation, I can do it for a fee, and take that off of the job.
Unless your municipality requires Manual J, S and D as part of the permit process, no residential contractor does it. No one did that stuff here, until fairly recently. And now only because code requires it... which just may be because of ****** work...
probably originalSo i saw mention of the line sets run in the slab?
How much life is left in those, are they corroded and about to let go?
pretty sure it runs thru the slab and not the drywallMissed this.
That could **** badly.
I wouldn't warranty that part of the job, if the lineset was reused.
Can also cause major issues from cooling the vapor line, giving the compressor liquid back.
I'd replace the lineset, and make sure that there aren't any concealed joints. It will require drywall work.
Can be hidden on the exterior with a lineset cover.

Which is why the whole system needs to be evaluated for a proper job.The only good part is that the old equipment was usually oversized, hopefully with duct to match.
You will want to replace this, if it is run through the slab.pretty sure it runs thru the slab and not the drywall
do either of you have any comments on the specific models being quoted? Lennox Merit series vs Carrier vs Daikin vs American Standard, etc?
I'm guessing the IRS will still approve a tax credit on my tax return?
well, it's not a rebate, it's a credit that comes off the income taxes. but I'll be checking into the evidence requirements so it'll be right if an audit ever rolls around
Just so you know - Equipment cost is less than $4600, cause that's what I can get it for off the street. (I'm not in the business)also got the quotes from them for various system options...and yes, these are heat pumps. I've never heard of the Daikin brand until now. it seems they bought out Goodman in 2012
https://www.building-center.org/goodman-hvac-age/
old system being replaced is a Goodman A24-08 (inside air handler built May 1999) and Goodman CPKE24-1AB (outside built May of 1998) 2-ton unit
going to check with my electric provider to see if they have any rebates for certain SEER levels.
minor differences in scope of work between each quote highlighted in bold blue, system specs are already obvious differences
And hvac work is only worth $19 an hour...Just so you know - Equipment cost is less than $4600, cause that's what I can get it for off the street. (I'm not in the business)
we've already been and back. window unit still running now. called our electric co-op and they were able to tell me how much 'leccy we been using. as near as I can figure, our bill will be almost double for this time period. the window unit never shuts off, the regular t-stat shows constant at 78F, and we have 3 ceiling fans running 24/7.A window unit might be the quickest fix. It won't be perfect, but it could help keep things cool enough in the downstairs area. Just make sure it’s rated for a 1200 sqft space. If you can get it set up before you leave, it might be your best bet for peace of mind.
I figured on that. I've seen prior threads on GJ about this issue and had already determined price wasn't the differentiator. The trick is in identifying the good installers and the only way I know how to do that is to ask you guys questions about the systems being proposed because you should be able to spot the BS right off the bat in answers provided by installers.Honestly, it really comes down to the installation.
A poorly installed platinum plated HVAC system will fail much sooner than a plain Jane one.
Goodman gets a bad rap because literally anyone can buy it online, while it is much harder to impossible to buy Lennox, Trane, American Standard, etc. outside of normal HVAC wholesaler channels. And even then, there are equipment tiers (Carrier/Bryant, American Standard/Trane/Ameristar, Lennox/AirEase/Ducane) within "brands". Not anyone can become an American Standard dealer, and the same is true of the other upper marketing tiers. Even if I could sell a million dollars a month of American Standard equipment, the territory is locked out in my area.
yep, I know enough to dismiss claims of that sort because they are irrelevant to customer satisfaction surveys/reviews.And the big name "Comfort Experts" or "Platinum Dealers" is just a title attained by reaching a monthly sales target of box sales. It has absolutely ZERO to do with quality of workmanship.
no one here has responded with a Bosch model, which could either mean there is no local support for it (which can be an issue) or the vendors that responded were luck-of-the-draw in that none of them deal with it.After a few Bosch equipment installs, I prefer it over the other stuff I have installed. Yes, it is made in China. However, the standards/specifications are top notch. It appears to be very well made. As I understand it, it is made by Midea.
And if you get into the equipment matches and capacities with the Bosch inverter equipment, you can put a 3ton condenser on a 2 ton evaporator and get oodles of heat out of it. Can't do that with non-inverter stuff.
no one here has responded with a Bosch model, which could either mean there is no local support for it (which can be an issue) or the vendors that responded were luck-of-the-draw in that none of them deal with it.