To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Temporary Roof Patch?

kartracer23

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
1,455
Location
New Castle, IN
So I've got a couple of leaks in my roof. The shingles are shot, so it's more than replacing a couple of them (besides, they're weird shaped shingles). I found this online about a cheap DIY patch:

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/roof/patch1/tar/temporary.htm

I'll replace the roof in the spring-I just don't want to have water getting to the wood for the next 6 months or so. The two areas aren't visible except to one neighbor so I'm not real worried about the appearance - just want to keep the framing dry.

Any thoughts? Any other ideas?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Keep

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
1,398
Location
Oshawa, Ontario
I had to patch a few years ago, I went to Home Depot, bought a package of shingles and replaced the patch that was leaking. Then the roof was replaced 2 months later.

I am not sure I would trust the tar fix in the link.
 

OldCarGuy

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
1,997
Location
Ohio
From my experience,, I'd say take the time to install all new shingles now,, before winter sets in. Rather than wasting time and money on a spotty patch fix. That most likely will not solve the problem till spring...
 
OP
K

kartracer23

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
1,455
Location
New Castle, IN
From my experience,, I'd say take the time to install all new shingles now,, before winter sets in. Rather than wasting time and money on a spotty patch fix. That most likely will not solve the problem till spring...

Unfortunately, it's one of those 'not that simple' deals. The current shingles are not on decking - just 2" x 8"s with an air gap (I'm assuming it was originally cedar shaked). So, it needs to be decked. And, it's out of square - so I want to square it up before putting decking / new roof on. Which means pulling the cross ties on the inside. Which leads to sheathing the inside. And if I'm going to do that, I need to have the electrical done first. And...:) You know how it goes. Project creep.

Just finished painting my house - which led to: new storm windows being made, 5 new lights outside, new gutters, new outside outlets, new dryer vent, new underground gutter drains, new doorbell, redoing all of the interior windows / trim, new flashing over the front porch, patching the flat roof over the back porch and about a dozen other things I'm sure I forgot!

Not only does the framing get wet, one of the leaks is right where my truck door is - so in the winter I have to walk across an ice patch to get in my truck. And I should clarify - we ain't talking about a nice garage here. When we get a good windstorm, I pull the cars out & hope it blows over so I can collect insurance. :)
 

cowboy73

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
2,609
Location
southern Indiana
If you're going to try this fix, I would recommend buying the higher priced fiber cement roof coating. It should hold up a little better than the standard roof cement. You could topcoat it after it dries with some aluminum roof coating to help protect if from the sun.
 

sc3013

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2009
Messages
213
Location
southern Indiana
What about blue tarps? Heck theres been some on around here for years. Would get you till next year. Seem like if they weather or rip they just add another layer. I know they dont look great but it is just temp. fix.
 

KEH

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2010
Messages
5,142
If it's a small leaking area you can try a can of spray undercoating.

KEH
 

little d

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2009
Messages
815
Location
NW Oklahoma
kart, i dont do temp patches but, with that said, i'd do like cowboy said, get the higher end fiber tar and do it to a larger area then the leak. if its the size of a basketball, id do a 4' by 4' area, going all the way up to the bottom of the row of shingles. also be damn carefull up there, i've fallen through old roofs, my brother said i looked like a pencile bouncing off of the sides of a coke bottle going through it, lol, hurt like hell to. good luck, little d.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

tcianci

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
Judging from what you linked to, that's one way of fixing it. Also go to geocells web site they have every type of roofing coating and product imaginable.
 

NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,954
Location
Northern Central Ohio
When you rip off the old shingles, I wouldn't take off the batten boards. I'd nail the OSB right into the batten boards.
I ripped them off the back of the house when I did it, the following year, when I did the top of the house, I left the batten boards there. It made life alot easier as the rafters were not anything common on center.
 

69GSCAL

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2010
Messages
194
On our house that we're remodeling, these are the fixes from one of the previous owners. :dunno:
 

Attachments

  • Big repairs.jpg
    Big repairs.jpg
    49 KB · Views: 57
  • Shady repairs.jpg
    Shady repairs.jpg
    114.1 KB · Views: 49

rodnok1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
853
Location
NC
On our house that we're remodeling, these are the fixes from one of the previous owners. :dunno:

Not that uncommon to fix a knot hole or an area with alot of small holes. The retards that did my last house roof(before I moved in) used tin to span big holes and fix weak boards. I'm talking about I almost went through the damn roof holes. I used some 2x4's and plywood to shore upi from the inside.
 

Daniel Dudley

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
If you're going to try this fix, I would recommend buying the higher priced fiber cement roof coating. It should hold up a little better than the standard roof cement. You could topcoat it after it dries with some aluminum roof coating to help protect if from the sun.

I would go a step further and suggest you embed fiberglass mesh into the repair over the seam. two layers of mesh in tar will outlast the roof. I am not a big fan of it, but I have done enough of it. You need to go over the entire section of roof, and patch everything that looks suspect.
 
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
7
Just putting something over the spot where you think the leak is, probably won't stop the leak. The key is to get to a point up-slope from the leak, where water can't get under your barrier. If up-slope is a peak, placing the barrier over the peak of the roof will ensure that water does not get under it. If up-slope is a vertical surface, butting it against the surface will probably be satisfactory. The trick will be to secure it so that it does not blow away.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom