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Temporary welding table options? Plus welding tips?

Voi

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My brother in law will be visiting for a couple of weeks over the holidays and is going to teach me basic MIG welding. I am borrowing a friend's Millermatic 135.

I'd prefer not to weld on the floor and would like to know my options for a temporary work surface.

I have a Sam's Club workbench with metal legs so I could take the butcher block top off and put something else on top. Or would a welding blanket over the butcher block be enough?

I saw a metal door at my local Restore Outlet but am worried it will be too thin and I assuming it has flamable polyurethane foam inside.

I have a couple of 3' x 2' x 2" thick landscaping stones that appear to be some sort of very dense sandstone. No idea if that will work.

Any suggestions appreciated.

My BIL is telling me not to worry about getting a gas bottle but I'm thinking it will make it easier for me to learn. Any thoughts? I don't mind going and renting a small bottle.

I believe my BIL is bringing his helmet, gloves etc. with him. I'll be borrowing an auto darkening helment and welding gloves from my friend. Anything else I need?

My shop circuits are on 12 guage wire but I only have 15 amp breakers and outlets. Will the Millermatic 135 run better if I put in a 20 amp breaker and outlet? Sorry for such a basic question. An electrician I am not.
 
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GirlnAgarage

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Why not pick up materials to build a table? Some square tubing and plate would be a great project. Usually when a new welder starts working a welding cart and welding table are the first projects.


Edit: the 135 specs for 1/8" steel. If you use it for larger you'll need to bevel joints and make multipasses.

Here's the specs in section 3-1 http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1324k_mil.pdf
 
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Voi

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Why not pick up materials to build a table? [/url]

A few reasons. I want to try my hand at welding first, of course, although my BIL with his experience would make sure I didn't screw anything up if we built a table together.

I also planned to use the BB top from my Sam's bench for a lower wood working bench and then use the Sam's metal base for a welding table. But before I do that I want to get an idea of what sorts of projects I'll be compelled to do, etc.

Lastly, I need to run a subpanel to my garage for my dust collector so my tentative plan is to buy a more powerful welder than the 135. I assumed I'd prefer to build my bench when I had more experience when I had the more powerful welder.

On the other hand, my BIL doesn't visit often. Not since I married his sister back in 2005 in fact. So I have considered that I should build a welding table while he's here.
 

bimmer1980

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here's a couple of thoughts........

Before you try and build anything, learn the basics of running a decent weld first. I know it sounds like a great idea to learn while building something useful, I think it just makes for frustration when the welds don't turn out well.

Personally, you don't need much in the way of the table, but you will need some random scrap iron to practice on. I would get a workmate table or some saw horses and set up a basic table. While not the best, you can use a table top that is some cheap OSB. don't get your welds too close or it will eventually char and could burn. (and keep a fire extinguisher handy). A piece of steel or a patio brick would be better, but not absolutely required at this point.

When I learned to weld way back in high school we had nice booths that were set up with bricks as the base. It also had a chunk of 12x12" base metal with a tube attached to it. This allowed you to attach your ground to it and then tack a piece of metal to it at a comfortable height for welding. It's other purpose was to allow you to practice out of position welding.

For you proposes, try to get some clean drop cut pieces from a metal place for practice welding. First you want to practice laying some straight stringer welds on a flat piece of steel. You are mainly looking to practice building a puddle, and then moving at the right speed. Once you are consistent at moving at the right rate, then you can try joining two pieces together--flat **** welds. Then move to t-welds. Then horizontal welds. etc.... We cut up pieces of stock into 2x3" pieces that we welded together for each weld position and technique. We did lots of practice before building something and it paid off. one of the things you will see is how the weld warps as it cools. Something you have to consider when you are building something....

Practice, practice. Then get some metal and build a real welding table. You will be much more satisfied with your nice welds on your completed table.

Best of luck. Take your time and take a few breaks while the welder cools down.. That welder will not be able to weld continuously.
 

GirlnAgarage

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Yeah, that's understandable.

I can't comment too much about what will or won't work in a pinch. You can likely put sheet metal over the wood top for temporary welding. I have been given that suggestion before. Just be aware of the heat transferring underneath, it can be fire hazard. I don't have a steel bench yet and do my welding on the garage floor or my 1.25" wooden laminate top. I've seen guys stack plastic ilk crates and just lay plate on top. Sounds like the metal legs on your existing bench would be fine.

Word of caution on cement/bricks/stone, be careful welding on them and heating the area. I've read they can explode when the moisture heats up. I haven't had it happen but something to note as a reminder to consider the surface. I imagine the type of stone/cement mix would make the difference in its properties and penchant to explode.

Enjoy the visit from your BIL and the welding :)
 

cabranch47

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Hi, I am a novice welder and have been lurking here for some time. Great site with lots of information. I presently use an old metal frame office table (has a "rubber" type of top sruface). I have placed a piece of 3/8" concrete backer board (Hardi backer) on top and have found it quite seviceable. You can't clamp or weld directly on it, but it gives a good, flat, non-flammable surface. When it gets too beat up it is easy and inexpensive to replace, and can be cut to size. So far it has worked fine until I can build a "proper" table, and gets me off the floor. Hope this helps.
 

MoonRise

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The 'problem' with (some) stone is that they do or may absorb water.

water + intense-heat = steam explosion which sends shards of stone flying around

And sandstone (actual or that type of stone) is usually rather porous. So a not-so-good choice there.

Metal door, just like you thought, is probably too thin and filled with foam to be a (decent) welding table.

Welding ON a welding blanket is not so good for (most) welding blankets, as they usually resist heat and don't burn but still are not made to resist actual molten metal. YMMV.

Cheap 'practice' surface for welding? Something big enough to work on, strong enough and flat enough for the purpose, and not flammable IMNSHO. Choices could be a piece of "tile backer board" from the hardware/home-improvement store (3x5 sheet of 1/2 inch thick backer board is maybe ~$10 or so). Just make sure the backer board is dry and stays dry.

But 'better' would be a piece of steel plate. Make/buy/attach legs and you have a welding table. See Miller or Lincoln's websites for some (relatively) simple plans for welding tables/surfaces if you need some more details. Basically just four legs/posts and put the steel plate on top. :D

As to the electrical, if you are not comfortable/knowledgeable about electricity, then you pretty much should either leave the stuff alone or hire an electrician.

That said, most of the 120V MIG machines can run OK on a 'standard' household outlet, but not at 'max' output. For high-output from those machines, you kind of need the 20 amp breaker.

For a short run of wire from the breaker to the outlet in use (to minimize any possible voltage drop due to the internal wire resistance) and making sure that there is NOTHING else running/on that branch circuit (so that there is no 'juice' being used anyplace else from that circuit/breaker except for the welder), you can probably do some practice welding without many (or too many) electrical issues. Try to crank up the welder to 'max' and you can probably trip the 15A breaker in about 30 seconds or so. :D

Beginning practice for a 120V MIG machine (whether using GMAW or FCAW wire) I usually say to get some 1/8 inch thick pieces of steel plate/bar/strap and do "lap joints". This way you have an edge to follow, can watch the arc melt that edge and the wire fill in and make the "puddle", and a double thickness of metal so you reduce the tendancy to instantly blast/melt right through. Notice I said "reduce" not "eliminate" :D

Supplies?

Welding helmet and gloves, possible 'doo-rag' or welding cap to cover the head/hair (the welding helmet usually doesn't cover the top or back of the head). Metal to weld (see previous paragraph about some 1/8 inch thick steel to practice on). Some way to clean the metal down to bare shiny steel before welding (an angle grinder with appropriate attachments, such as grinding disk, flap disk, and wire wheels, is a 'usual' tool for that). Acetone-in-a-can (new style 'brake cleaner') is a handy degreaser (be careful using flammable solvents!!!!), as you really do need to remember/learn that you weld METAL and not rust or oil or grease or paint or etc.

Safety equipment includes a water bucket and a fire extinguisher. Hopefully you won't need either.

A 'safe' place to weld is also important. No welding in a cramped/crowded garage filled with sawdust, plastic gas cans underneath you, and that sort of thing. Beware that molten drips/spatters of steel can 'skittle' across the floor and still be hot enough to ignite things 5-10 ft away (bad case scenario). Have proper air flow for fresh air (don't breathe in welding fumes, as they are not good for you. Some are 'worse' than others.)

The 'little' 120V MIG machines are (usually) quite capable within their limits. Have fun.

Check the Miller and Lincoln websites for some more info and hints and stuff about welding and safety and practice and getting started, etc, etc, etc. There are lots of others on the web as well, but those two can get you started with a LOT of info.
 
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Voi

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As to the electrical, if you are not comfortable/knowledgeable about electricity, then you pretty much should either leave the stuff alone or hire an electrician.

Oh yeah, I have an electrician coming out this week already for some other stuff around the house and to wire the cove heaters in my shop. I'm just trying to decide if it was worth having him switch out the breaker and outlet.

I don't do anything with 220V and nothing at the panel. I know my limits.

I'll try to get to the rest of the responses later.
 

MoonRise

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Oh yeah, I have an electrician coming out this week already for some other stuff around the house and to wire the cove heaters in my shop. I'm just trying to decide if it was worth having him switch out the breaker and outlet.

I don't do anything with 220V and nothing at the panel. I know my limits.

I'll try to get to the rest of the responses later.

Switch out a breaker and outlet? Nah.

Have the electrician run one or two (or more) 20amp 120V circuit runs around the shop area and put the 'combo' 20/15 amp outlets in them. Then you can run 'bigger' 120V tools and not really have power issues (as long as you aren't running multiple power-hungry 120V tools on the same circuit at the same time!)

If the 12 gauge wires are already run in the shop for the outlets and you have 'enough' of those outlets and they are placed 'ok' for what you think you want to do, then sure, have the electrician swap the 15amp breaker on those 12 guage circuits for a 20amp breaker and possibly change the outlet types (15/20amp combo outlet is good) (subject to any other wire/breaker/outlet code restrictions/requirements that may apply).
 

purplezr2

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I welded on the floor for a long time, still do for most larger stuff, have a small 2x3 table for small work, I weld outdoors on the front pad of the garage most of the time.
 
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Voi

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Switch out a breaker and outlet? Nah.

Have the electrician run one or two (or more) 20amp 120V circuit runs around the shop area and put the 'combo' 20/15 amp outlets in them. Then you can run 'bigger' 120V tools and not really have power issues (as long as you aren't running multiple power-hungry 120V tools on the same circuit at the same time!)

If the 12 gauge wires are already run in the shop for the outlets and you have 'enough' of those outlets and they are placed 'ok' for what you think you want to do, then sure, have the electrician swap the 15amp breaker on those 12 guage circuits for a 20amp breaker and possibly change the outlet types (15/20amp combo outlet is good) (subject to any other wire/breaker/outlet code restrictions/requirements that may apply).

I'm out of room on my main panel and won't be putting in the sub panel until next year sometime.

I have two 15 amp circuits in my shop, both with 12 guage wire.

I do have one more wall to add outlets to but won't get that done until the subpanel is in.

So is it worth putting in a 20 amp breaker and one combo outlet for the time I'll have my friends Millermatic 135? Or just run it on 15 amps and call it good enough? I can add subpanel, combo outlets and 220V outlets later this winter.
 

MoonRise

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I'm out of room on my main panel and won't be putting in the sub panel until next year sometime.

I have two 15 amp circuits in my shop, both with 12 guage wire.

I do have one more wall to add outlets to but won't get that done until the subpanel is in.

So is it worth putting in a 20 amp breaker and one combo outlet for the time I'll have my friends Millermatic 135? Or just run it on 15 amps and call it good enough? I can add subpanel, combo outlets and 220V outlets later this winter.

"worth it"? Your call on that one.

For me, I'd say YES. (have enough 'big' tools it was worth it to have 20amp circuits.)
 

gorilla

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Do you have a dryer outlet in your garage? You could make a adapter with a dryer cord and a 4X4 box with a outlet for the welder. You could buy a 4'X4' piece of 1/4" or thicker plate for a welding table and put it on saw horses for the time being until you're ready to build a table.
 
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W650Mike

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South Dakota isn’t that far from Texas…where your first projects must include some sort of smoker / pit.

I moved to TX from Wisconsin. Here is what I learned upon purchasing my first welder:

1. Practice on scrap metal is great advice. I got bored as soon as I had the puddle / bead under control. I then started thinking of building a pit.
2. A grill project will do as long as you build it while planning a proper pit.
3. When you move to TX and buy a welder, you only have two years to complete your first pit.
4. It’s OK to steal ideas from other people’s pits – just be sure to include one or more unique features to make yours different and therefore obviously better.
5. Even if your pit isn’t better, tell people it is and point out your unique features.
6. DON’T loan out your welder. Loan out your pit. But not your welder.

:beer:
 

neonnblack

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UNtil i built my table, two saw horses and 3/4 plywood was my work surface, it blackened the wood but never caught on fire welding right on top of it.

Light make sure you have tons of it to see what youre welding through the mask, the arc doesnt really give you the lighting you need.
 

Larwyn

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I have seen plywood welding tables used for years. I built 11 panels (essentially gates), each fitted to a different size opening, on one job using a 4x8 Hardi Panel supported by 2x4's and saw horses a couple of years ago. My current welding table started life as a stand I built to hold my 5th wheel hitch and generator in storage. I just added short legs to make it high enough and a bit of 18" plate for a top. It would be better if the top were thicker but it works.
 

tarbellb

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ha, ive been welding on a solidcore door for years now. its not ideal but it def works.

go get yourself some 3/4" ply or a old solid door and weld on that. it wont catch fire unless your really, really, trying. it will smoke, and it will char.

if you know anybody or any shop that does metal fab/sales ask them for cut offs, scrap, etc... and practice on those.

the thicker the metal, the easier to weld. Miller 135, get some 1/8" or even 3/16" to practice on.

have fun

oh, dont get to skittish when welding, you have to try to get yourself into trouble- minus grabbing hot things.
 

IndyGarage

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I learned to TIG on a piece of 1/8 sheetmetal on an old workmate - I scorched the wood top some, but it worked.

I can wholeheartedly recommend the Stronghand Nomad welding table for projects. It's only $140 and has a lot of nice features.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VH805Y/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I also bought the welding attachment for my Jawhorse, and probably end up using it even more.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EPR6UC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Note: this is just the welding clamp and aluminum jaws, you have to buy the Jawhorse separately.
 

BSKINGPIN

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I have welded up some really big projects on the steel adjustable sawhorses like from Lowes with a 3/4" MDF for a top the nice thing about it is it's really flat and cheap. Like somebody else said earlier get the protective clothing. I have burn scars all over my arms. A welding jacket is relatively cheap and definitely worth the money. If you are in an enclosed area I would most definitely weld with some type of gas. Either CO2 or a argon co2 mix. The welds are some much nicer. A 4 1/2 grinder with a flap wheel ( tiger disc ) is my favorite they remove material fast and leave a really nice finish. Main thing is don't be scared to try and practice practice practice. I hope this helps.
 
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Voi

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Thanks everyone. I ended up finding a piece of 2'x3' 3/16" plate and put it on the legs of my Sam's Club bench. My BIL was a good teacher. He's a CWI and oversees a shop with about 120 welders. He also used to teach a welding night course at a vocational school.

Unfortunately two sick kids meant very little time in the shop but I did get to learn the basics. We did swap the breakers out to 20 amps but stuck with flux core rather than getting a gas bottle.

Need to return the 135 to my friend and get to shopping for a welder.
 

BD1

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hi, know anyone with a old cast iron table saw ??? would work if you can get it cheap cheap.Any local scrap yards , sheet metal shop,or what about welding on the brother in laws vehicle ????????????????????? just kidding about the car or truck!
 
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