"temporary" wiring

[ckucia]

Thought I'd bounce this of you guys before I do anything.

Too cold to do much outside. Been thinking about doing some electrical work in the garage.

We moved in two months ago. We still haven't moved everything but projects are already piling up.

The garage has two GDOs. Everything's connected and wired except outlets to power them. Doors have no latches or handles so opening/closing them is kind of a PITA.

It's a pole building with girts, sheathing and vinyl siding. One access door.
Poles are 6x6. Inside unfinished. There are some shallow workbenches built into the back of the long wall about halfway down. 10' ceilings with a good size loft upstairs

I haven't been there long enough to know what I want to do to the place long term. And the wife's projects are probably going to take precedence.

But right now, I've got one overhead incandescent light on a switch that's little more than mood lighting, a couple more on ceiling fans (?) that are on extension cords and one outlet that feeds a couple of benches and the two overhead lights.

So I need to get the GDOs wired up, need some more outlets and I need to put in some lighting. Trying to get the most bang for the buck but I also want it to be safe and done right.

My debate is romex going to metal boxes vs conduit going to plastic boxes.

Romex is easy, albeit ugly. Probably going to involve drilling through something. I tend to dislike romex in a garage unless it's in the walls or overhead because "stuff happens" in the garage and romex doesn't offer much protection.

Conduit I can surface mount. It's a little harder to work with, but it does a pretty good job of protecting the wiring from stuff that may fall against it. I little harder to change or remove if I change my mind later.

I've never done a cost comparison of the individual wires in conduit vs the romex.

Garage is 30x48 IIRC. I've been considering putting 2x6s or 2x4s between the poles behind the girts in bookshelf fashion because the walls flex a fair amount and the old OSB isn't exactly new so that makes surface-mounting the conduit more attractive.

Maybe someday I'll insulate and cover the walls, but I can't see that happening for several years, if ever.

As far as use. Mostly home projects including some possible construction, wood working, vehicle repair. Long term I'd like to recreate my home auto shop but at this point, I'm in fix-what-I-have-to-to-keep-it-running mode.

Thinking about a new 220v compressor, but not sure I can get wife approval. Do have a 110v compressor that can get me by. Have 220 in the garage but currently nothing to power besides the well pump controller that's already in there.

Be interested in your thoughts. This is really a stop gap until I can decide what I want to do, but it's going to likely be with me for a few years.

 

[driftpin]

Consider armored cable, much more resistant to rodent knawing, which will ruin your romex quickly. Lighting circuits from one luminaire to another you can run 14 ga. and for duplex boxes run 12 ga, or 10 ga if you need 30 amps. The stuff isn't that difficult to work-with. Use a bit of planning, and you can make it your permanent wiring, instead of a temporary fix.

I've installed eight of the Costco FEIT four-foot LED shop lights, they give good light, and are only $20 apiece, which is I think a great deal. I did have one not working upon installation, but discovered three wires not-landed, two into what you would call the "tombstones" on a flourescent light, here for LED's, they're 'stab-in' printed circuit connectors soldered to the PC board for the light strip. There was also a cold-soldered 120 V lead that was detached, I re-soldered that. So, out of the nine Costco shop lights, eight worked out of the box, and have continued to work flawlessly; one was DOA but was resuscitated, easily-enough.

One of the two shops where I just installed the Costco FEIT LED shop lights, was a within the last two years whole-house re-model. I looked into LED shop lights when we were at the light installation point, and I researched the LED's, but they were $130 apiece, then, which I wasn't willing to spend. Now they are $20 apiece at Costco. Ah, progress!

I see you mentioned garage door openers (GDO). I had installed two Clopay insulated doors, reinforced for the HVHZ rating required under the Florida Building Code, because of hurricane winds. The installer also did two Liftmaster 8500 installs, which opened the area above and below the doors. I've made good use of the unobstructed space above for storage of lightweight, but bulky things like Christmas decorations, and below, for the installation of the four-foot LED shop lights. The panel OH garage doors are high-lift track mounted and that allowed me to have good lighting below the OH garage doors' path of travel, regardless of whether the OH doors are opened.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Why mess with anything temporary? Run a couple circuits for you current needs. Add more later.

 

[Norcal]

Consider armored cable, much more resistant to rodent knawing, which will ruin your romex quickly. Lighting circuits from one luminaire to another you can run 14 ga. and for duplex boxes run 12 ga, or 10 ga if you need 30 amps. The stuff isn't that difficult to work-with. Use a bit of planning, and you can make it your permanent wiring, instead of a temporary fix.

I've installed eight of the Costco FEIT four-foot LED shop lights, they give good light, and are only $20 apiece, which is I think a great deal. I did have one not working upon installation, but discovered three wires not-landed, two into what you would call the "tombstones" on a flourescent light, here for LED's, they're 'stab-in' printed circuit connectors soldered to the PC board for the light strip. There was also a cold-soldered 120 V lead that was detached, I re-soldered that. So, out of the nine Costco shop lights, eight worked out of the box, and have continued to work flawlessly; one was DOA but was resuscitated, easily-enough.

One of the two shops where I just installed the Costco FEIT LED shop lights, was a within the last two years whole-house re-model. I looked into LED shop lights when we were at the light installation point, and I researched the LED's, but they were $130 apiece, then, which I wasn't willing to spend. Now they are $20 apiece at Costco. Ah, progress!

I see you mentioned garage door openers (GDO). I had installed two Clopay insulated doors, reinforced for the HVHZ rating required under the Florida Building Code, because of hurricane winds. The installer also did two Liftmaster 8500 installs, which opened the area above and below the doors. I've made good use of the unobstructed space above for storage of lightweight, but bulky things like Christmas decorations, and below, for the installation of the four-foot LED shop lights. The panel OH garage doors are high-lift track mounted and that allowed me to have good lighting below the OH garage doors' path of travel, regardless of whether the OH doors are opened.

Where are you going to get armored cable? The product most commonly sold at big box stores is metal clad, MC, not AC, trade slang "BX", AC, MC, & NM cable all have the same requirement of being protected from physical damage, but do agree that the armor will be more resistant to rodent damage.

 

[ckucia]

I guess by "temporary" I meant that, whatever I do now, it's probably going to have to be undone/modified whenever I decide what my long term plans are.

Took Driftpin's advice and got some MC cable. Going to at least use it where the wire runs down along the vertical posts.

Have enough supplies to get about 8 quads installed, some duplexes for the GDOs and duplexes for lighting. Went through my bins full of supplies and found enough boxes and receptacles to save me a bit of money. Always good to use what you have.

For lighting I picked up 16 brooder lights. They'll take a 300w bulb but I got 200w for now. Going to hang them pendulum style, two rows of 8 on either side of the main beam. It may not be enough light over the workbenches or to work on vehicles, but I'll have the preliminary work done to add more later.

Eventually I'd like to paint the brooder lights to make them look like enameled shades and maybe add some color. Right now I just need lighting so they're going up bare aluminum. Had to go to Lowes and two TSCs to find 16 that weren't all dented to heck. Brooder lights were $9 each at TSC and the bulbs were $3 each so each one cost me about $12 plus hardware to hang.

 

[driftpin]

Sorry, yes it's MC, metal-clad, not 'armored cable.' Yes, the protection it gives is far-above that of Romex, like NM-B.

Where are you going to get armored cable? The product most commonly sold at big box stores is metal clad, MC, not AC, trade slang "BX", AC, MC, & NM cable all have the same requirement of being protected from physical damage, but do agree that the armor will be more resistant to rodent damage.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Personally, I don't care for the brooder lights and I believe fluorescents with LEDs would be a better bang for the buck. You could have bought five 8' T8 fixtures sourced at HD but you would still have to pick up some LED bulbs.

Keep in mind, the LEDs only draw 17 watts each and your 200W brooder lamps draw way more than that. I believe 2 of your brooder lights will use more energy than all those LEDs put together. What gauge MC did you pick up ? That's going to limit you on how many of those 200W bulbs you should run per circuit.

How much power do you have available to your new shop ?

Instead of doing a bunch of temp work, I'd suggest formulating a plan for the place and knock it out slowly. If the wife wants projects done, you need to have a place to work on them. If you intend to save money by doing vehicle maintenance yourself, you need a place to do it. Sometimes you have to work things to your advantage to get stuff done.

 

[ckucia]

I bought 12/2 wire for the lights. I'm planning on 8 lamps on a 20 amp circuit. I have 220 in the garage. House has 200amp service. I believe the garage is a 100amp subpanel. Only thing on it is the well pump.

I always run 12/2 in the garage. 14 saves a little money in the short term, but 12 ends up being more flexible as needs change, in my experience. Just a habit I've developed over the years I guess.

I would like to move to LED bulbs eventually.

I considered fluorescents but I dislike the light they put out.

Looked at some LED strip lights at the blue and orange stores but what was in stock didn't have a good description of light output, and most were out of budget. I may try them over the workbench and, if I like the output I can always replace the brooder lamps with those. I know what the light output is for 200w incandescents as I've used them in the past, and I like it. LEDs have been a crapshoot for me in the past.

My wife raises chickens, so worse case we'll have a lifetime supply of lamps for her. They're pretty fragile in the coop in terms of denting so we end up needing a couple every year.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'm with you on the 12/2, I feel the same. I know others prefer to use 12 and 14 as needed.

I am using this strip lights from HD. I have 14 of them in the garage I believe and they are about 9 years old. I did have to replace one ballast a couple of months ago. Mine are mounted directly on the white ceiling (albeit for a small 3/4" standoff) and it lets the ceiling be the reflector rather than a shop light style hood.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithoni...rip-Light-TUNS-2-32-MVOLT-1-4-GEBHL/202193181

Then I found these direct swap LEDs at Menard's. They come in a ten pack and I haven't had any problems with them yet. These are a 5000K and I like how white they are but a 4200K bulb is also available for less money.

https://www.menards.com/main/electr...9189-c-7482.htm?tid=857664685236415864&ipos=2


If you were closer, I'd tell you to stop by and check them out.

 

[sberry]

I wire up a couple outlets, get a couple 3 or 4 cords, power strips and get workwise first. Then go back and add as needed.

 

[ddawg16]

Use 12 AWG SO cord where needed.....you can strap it up out of the way. Later on, you can make extension cords out of it.

Pole barn? Are you ever going to cover up the cavities? If so, then Romex is your cheapest and easiest. And, yes, you can use metal boxes.

Exposed? I'd use conduit before I'd use armored cable....and I'd use stranded inside the conduit instead of solid. A whole lot easier to pull.

Personally.....I'd do romex with the plan of covering the walls. Covered walls will improve lighting and cut down on the dirt....and improve temp control...especially if you insulate.

 

[sberry]

You need 12 for general circuits without further over current protection with multiple outlets that could be overloaded. I have ran 2 common openers from 16 with a 3 way, as long as more isn't added it's fine. This is a place to learn a bit about calculated load. I still have some fixtures connected by lamp cords. Up out of the way no one can simply plug more in to them. Can use 14 ahead of power strips, have used them to switch lights. If i can do this with common 16 cords i do, 25 ft a 50 if I have to. All ready made plug in, when it's over have some modest cord that is useful.
I was in a drug store of all places, they had 10 ft orange for 2$ as a sale. After I left I kicked myself for not dropping 20$ where I spent 4. They are super for this kind of temp hookup stuff, grounded 15 end. Used to be a guy could buy 25/16 for 5 but think that may have passed as is the 3$ strip. They make short 14 appliance cord is good for this ahead of strips.
I bought one a while back, perfect length just to dedicate to a block heater.

 

[ckucia]

I didn't get started until 5pm, but I now have working GDOs.

Have the lines for the two light circuits run from the switches to the breaker box, but the ends aren't terminated yet. Hoping to get at least one light installed tomorrow night.

 

[Bretny]

I hope you did your self a favor and put the light circuit on outlets in the ceiling. Its a rail PITA hard wireing stuff that dosnt need to be.

If your against romex for outlets in the work area i would use the MC wire and put them every 4, 6,8 or 10ft on the wall or supports for the building. Do them like your going to keep them as you most likely will.
I have never once said to my self damn i wish i didnt have an outlet here....its always i wish there was an outlet here.

You could always run some romex overhead with extension cord reels.

I have a 24x24 garage that came with 1 wore out GFCI. I added 14 outlet not inculding the light outlets on the ceiling.

 

[ckucia]

I'm using outlets in the ceiling, but I haven't gotten that far yet. Seemed the most flexible way to do it.

Plan on a quad outlet on every pole along the main work area. Poles are about every 8', then a quad on the two support posts holding up the main beam. That will give me outlets close to the front of a car if I pull it in front-first.

 

[Oldbear]

My permanent wiring is all EMT conduit and BX armoured cabling. I know myself well enough to know that what I have or need right now will change as I work and add to my shop. The exposed conduit lets me add and pull what I need.

I installed a under the pad conduit from the panel to each wall before we poured the pad (wish I had added a second one to each wall). One is full, but the other two will allow for me to add a circuit when I find some new power tool...

In my old shop I just kept adding as I needed - but that was over a 5 year span. Do what you need to be able to use the space - you can always change or add later.