Tesla Wall Charger Install

[Lu-Max]

I bought a new Tesla Model Y LR, and while I was waiting for delivery I installed a Tesla Wall Charger Gen 3 with the long cord.

I happened to have some leftover 6/3 Romex (the Wall Charger only requires two 6 AWG plus ground) from wiring my welder circuit so I didn't need to buy any materials aside from the 60A, two-pole breaker. I also had a double space open in my load center which is only a few feet away. I get 48A charge rate when it comes on at 1 am when electricity is the cheapest. Piece of cake install.

 

[dcg9381]

Thanks for the write up on this...

 

[doctordirt]

Nice professional install

 

[nadogail]

Are you sure you are not an Electrician ? You work looks like you are a Journeyman.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Excellent job I find many times the DIY guy has a better end product that a “professional” will complete. Pride in your work and ownership generally produces a better result. As my buddy says “good on you”!

 

[Lu-Max]

Thanks guys. I'm not an electrician, but I have wired a few of my own houses and have completed some extensive remodels. I always do all of my own plumbing and wiring (among others...).

 

[Stuff]

1 - The cable clamp is installed backwards - the screws are supposed to be on the outside with the ring inside. Easier to use a plastic push-in connector instead.

2 - An EV charging connector is considered a continuous load so technically you need 4 gauge when using NM if the Tesla is set to draw the maximum of 48 amps. 48 x 125% = 60 and NM is only rated at 55 for 6 gauge.

 

[Lu-Max]

1. The back (black) plate does not come with a hole in it for the wiring, you need to bore one on the side that you prefer so not as easy as popping in a plastic wire clamp. This is a temporary install, this garage is getting completely renovated and stretched 6' in the spring and then I'm selling this house. When I sell this house the wall charger is coming with me so I installed it to be very easy to remove.
2. Yep, that's the NEC. But the length of the wires is <4', and Ohm's Law being what it is I'm fine with 6AWG, 55A rated wire with overload protection having a load of up to 48A on it for an hour or two each night. The wires are also not inside conduit. On the Wall Charger app you tell it what size breaker you installed and it sets the maximum charging amperage accordingly. It takes 3 seconds to select '50A breaker' on the app and it automatically dials back the maximum charging rate to 32A so a super-easy fix if you prefer. I chose this way in case I needed to get a full charge as quickly as possible. If you are getting it inspected use 4AWG with a 60A breaker for an EV charger.

 

[rburke65]

Hey…looks ok to me. Nice job!

 

[Denwood]

Nothing in your home typically pulls continuous load, for that length of time (unless you’re using electric heat) as charging an EV. I had an issue with my garage feed at the house popping 30amp fuses (on one leg only) once I started charging our EV at just 16 amps@240V…30-40 minutes into charging. It was an issue with resistance at the panel connections creating some serious heat to the point of fuse limits. My garage feed is only 30A so I can’t use the OEM charger at 28A@240V continuous. I bought a third party EVSE that does 16A@240 which works fine to add 10% charge/hour to the 40Kwh pack.

I just started using the non-metallic push in clamps on my last reno and am liking them…Long term I feel better about Romex insulated from the Iberville metal boxes.

it’s not a bad idea to check temps on your setup after 20-30 minutes charging…just to be safe.

 

[therealjakeg]

1 - The cable clamp is installed backwards - the screws are supposed to be on the outside with the ring inside. Easier to use a plastic push-in connector instead.

2 - An EV charging connector is considered a continuous load so technically you need 4 gauge when using NM if the Tesla is set to draw the maximum of 48 amps. 48 x 125% = 60 and NM is only rated at 55 for 6 gauge.

Curious, I have about a 130' run to a second garage. Could I run 4/3 to a sub panel and then run a final over in number 6 to the charger right next to it? I need to go look, but I thought the charger only takes the number 6 wire. Or do I lose too much with the footage?

 

[jeepxj]

Curious, I have about a 130' run to a second garage. Could I run 4/3 to a sub panel and then run a final over in number 6 to the charger right next to it? I need to go look, but I thought the charger only takes the number 6 wire. Or do I lose too much with the footage?

gen 2:

For most branch circuits of 100A, use 3 AWG (26.7 mm2), 167°F (75°C) copper wire. Ground wiring can be a maximum of 4 AWG. If your ground wiring does not fit into the bus, use a wire nut or other suitable connection method. For installations less than 100A, use conductors that are sized according to local electrical codes.

gen 3; 4awg max.

https://www.tesla.com/sites/default/files/support/charging/Gen3_WallConnector_Installation_Manual.pdf

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Curious, I have about a 130' run to a second garage. Could I run 4/3 to a sub panel and then run a final over in number 6 to the charger right next to it? I need to go look, but I thought the charger only takes the number 6 wire. Or do I lose too much with the footage?

4/3 as in NM-b? if the garage is detached then thats a no as nm-b is not permitted underground or even outside. you will need the appropriate rated wire or cable to connect that subpanel

in terms of voltage drop and the run length, it all depends on the load.

 

[Model A Fan]

Since the charger only requires 2-6AWG+Ground, what do you do with the third wire? I'm thinking at some point I'll probably install a charger given the direction cars are headed. Thanks!

 

[mike93lx]

Since the charger only requires 2-6AWG+Ground, what do you do with the third wire? I'm thinking at some point I'll probably install a charger given the direction cars are headed. Thanks!

Cap it.

It's a wasted wire unless you end up with a charger that requires a neutral or want to put a subpanel there to allow feeding something else