Test Light / Circuit Tester Recommendation needed.

[Tawn]

I am looking for a good Test Light / Circuit Tester for use on a boat.

I am spending the winter rehabbing our tool kit and the ancient test light is pretty beat up and corroded.

What would ideal is one that comes in a case to keep it from getting beat up in the tool bag.

Any of you electrical / diagnostic guys have a recommendation?

Thanks,
Tawn

 

[Jake79]

check out the Power Probe. I love mine, it's the 3 think they are on 4 or 5 now.

 

[Tawn]

This?

 

[Tawn]

Or this?

 

[PWC Repair]

I've not come across a short circuit or power problem yet that I couldn't trace down with a simple DMM.

 

[chrisbowles]

I got a power probe, and it's very nice. It can do alot, sometimes too much. Otc makes a nice test light. It goes up to 36 volt which is nice if you work on military or caterpillar equipment. Both are 24 volt and will eat a 12 volt model

 

[imalexodell]

Another happy power probe 3 owner. Great functionality with a price to match.

 

[Tawn]

I've not come across a short circuit or power problem yet that I couldn't trace down with a simple DMM.

What do you use on jet skis? As in what brand and model? What ever I buy will stay on the boat al year so I don't want to spend more than I need.

 

[hackwelder]

I've not come across a short circuit or power problem yet that I couldn't trace down with a simple DMM.

A DMM can DEFINITELY lead you astray in 12V troubleshooting since it pulls so little current, they will sometimes read good voltage through bad connections, damaged wiring, etc. Reading wiring and connection resistance can also be unreliable...so sometimes a power probe or a simple 12V incandescent test light is a better tool as it puts a small load on the circuit and pulls a little current. I do have a DMM and use it regularly but for many jobs my test light works better (learned this the hard way ;-)

 

[signcrafter]

A DMM can DEFINITELY lead you astray in 12V troubleshooting since it pulls so little current, they will sometimes read good voltage through bad connections, damaged wiring, etc. Reading wiring and connection resistance can also be unreliable...so sometimes a power probe or a simple 12V incandescent test light is a better tool as it puts a small load on the circuit and pulls a little current. I do have a DMM and use it regularly but for many jobs my test light works better (learned this the hard way ;-)

DMM and loadpro test leads solves that problem. I have DMMs, PPIII, incandescent test lights, LED test lights, and many other homemade testers and they all have their place. If I could only have one on a boat I would go with a good DMM and a set of loadpro leads.

 

[SantaAna12]

I have an old Mac test light that I like because it has a good long lead, and the bend is spring protected. It has held up extremely well. You could find one on Ebay for a song.

 

[joel63]

DMM and loadpro test leads solves that problem. I have DMMs, PPIII, incandescent test lights, LED test lights, and many other homemade testers and they all have their place. If I could only have one on a boat I would go with a good DMM and a set of loadpro leads.

An excellent way to go.

It's almost like magic for running down problems.

 

[K-Dog]

I have this cordless one from Astro Pneumatic and I LOVE it.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IOFVUC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Brownsfan]

Another vote for Digital Multi Meter with Load Pro leads. As far as a test light goes. Here is my go to.
http://www.toolplanet.com/product/W...-Signal-Tester/diagnostic-tools-testing-tools
I also own a Power Probe3. I use that for testing things like power window and lock motors , bulbs etc. I own MANY different pieces of test equipment because i do nothing but electrical. They all have their place and there is really no all in one. But a good DMM with load pro leads is going to be the best bet . I also own this tool as well.http://www.hickok-inc.com/catalog/products/76600_voltpro.html
This is like having a DMM with the load pro leads in a smaller package

 

[PWC Repair]

DMM and loadpro test leads solves that problem. I have DMMs, PPIII, incandescent test lights, LED test lights, and many other homemade testers and they all have their place. If I could only have one on a boat I would go with a good DMM and a set of loadpro leads.

Exactly what I use here. I have an older UEI mid-grade meter that will also measure 10amps right through the meter, and capacitance. It's what I almost always use over anything else.

 

[wild cowboy]

something Cornwell actually makes the best of

TE27

 

[Cope]

something Cornwell actually makes the best of

TE27

Until you buy the very best.

 

[pi_guy]

For a boat I would toss in the free multimeter from HF. Since it looks like he is a saltwater fisherman nothing survives for long in those conditions. It is waste of a good meter. Buy multiple cheap test lights.

 

[Tawn]

Thanks guys. I believe I am just going to go with a simple test light. Pi Guy, is 100% correct - the environment on the boat is pretty tough on tools, especially stuff like DMMs.

 

[Ign]

Or this?

I just used my PP3 kit troubleshooting the wife's rear wiper in her Yukon. It addresses virtually every issue I've ever had w electrical troubleshooting equipment, I thought it was awesome.

edit: and before you put faith in any of the HF free meters, just test them against a known good one. I once had one read ~3 volts low which left me chasing my tail for awhile, replacing an alternator on the trail when that was not the problem.

 

[an Automotive Technician]

If all you need to do is 12v get a pp3 in the hard case with the extention... if you need to do a verity of things get a dvom and learn to use every function... but spend the money and get a good one

 

[pi_guy]

edit: and before you put faith in any of the HF free meters, just test them against a known good one. I once had one read ~3 volts low which left me chasing my tail for awhile, replacing an alternator on the trail when that was not the problem.

I do not put faith in HF stuff, and I also test my all meters with a know source or good. It is not uncommon with testing equipment to use a standard. It prevents tail chasing.
My point was more geared up to if you are going to put something on a saltwater boat you had better be prepared to toss it when it turns to complete junk, nothing it better than some you paid nothing for .

Had a HF digital caliper that if you kept it level and parallel to the ground it gave good numbers if you tilted it or shook it the numbers went to sh!t.

 

[Faisal]

go for INNOVA 3420 Smart Test Light / Circuit Tester

 

[90zcar]

Simple MAC test light. Got it brand new on ebay for 11bux a couple months ago when a guy had a big lot of brand new ones


Sent from my iPhone 5s using Tapatalk

 

[bareass172]

A little late to the conversation, but I also prefer the Load Pro leads. Saved my **** a lot of times when I know a DMM would have had me running all over chasing my tail.

+1 to seeing a HF meter read ~3 volts out of spec. Had a friend chasing a non-existent problem for days until he tried a different meter.

 

[Tawn]

Ended up buying a Fluke 325 and a Mac Test light. The fluke will do all the AC stuff plus DC volts & current.

 

[dnschmidt]

HF for the test light and pick up a free DVM while you're at it. The Powerprobe is great but not a disposable. The HF test light is very good. Draws the right amount of current, not too much and just as importantly not too little and the wires are good. Nothing much more to say about it.

 

[Sticks McGee]

Until you buy the very best.

Until the bulb burns out in the middle of a diagnosis and you find it is a special bulb you cannot go to the hardware store to pick up..That's why I switched from the Snap on to the Mac one..

 

[JUNK-MAN]

I just have a standard Mac test light its worked for years and never had a problem, it was used when I got it so its a older model the new ones are probably better than mine . It don't come in a case but I'm sure you can get a case some place else and put it in it.

 

[86k10]

I have the PP3 and Loadpro, and I find it a PITA to pull out the PP3. I have the LED Snap On test light that I grab for quick light and fuse checks. If I was to lose my light I would buy the one with the volt meter on it.

 

[Brownsfan]

This is my "test light " of choice.http://www.hickok-inc.com/catalog/products/76600_voltpro.html
Or this onehttp://www.hickok-inc.com/catalog/products/sst42v.html
On a boat though. What the OP bought is.just fine. Not a lot of.sensitive electronics on board like a modern vehicle. I highly recommend both.

 

[Astro_Pneumatic_Tools]

I am looking for a good Test Light / Circuit Tester for use on a boat.

I am spending the winter rehabbing our tool kit and the ancient test light is pretty beat up and corroded.

What would ideal is one that comes in a case to keep it from getting beat up in the tool bag.

Any of you electrical / diagnostic guys have a recommendation?

Thanks,
Tawn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBA5FSM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Tawn]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBA5FSM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Looks to identical to the Snap-On LED test light only $60 cheaper.

I ended up going with a Mac test light and a Fluke DMM.

 

[lightning02]

whatever you do dont buy this one (link below) was a pos and cord broke into a bunch of little parts. only used a hand full of times.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-coil-cord-circuit-tester/p-00921013000P

would love to buy the Astro Pneumatic but worried it will have the same outcome. looks like the same cord.

 

[stg454]

I have two Snap-On test lights. One with a green coiled cord and an older one with a black cord.
I'm temped to purchase a Power Probe 3 now. Just not sure if it will get enough use.