To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Textured walls yes/no?

Mobilejay

Active member
Joined
Oct 3, 2007
Messages
27
Location
Houston
I have been looking around for a few days to see if anyone has textured walls. I haven't found *too* much but there are a couple people out there. What are the pros and cons of texturing the garage walls. My girlfriend was saying that it will get and look dirtier with out texturing. Not sure which way to go here, so any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Steevo

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2009
Messages
8,738
Location
43.49600, -112.04300
My walls and ceiling of my shop I had finished in a smooth finish, and painted it all in semi-gloss, because the texture just holds dust.

1081764363_BoEru-L.jpg
 

Virgil Cain

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2011
Messages
406
As the guy above said, texture holds dust and it's a ***** to clean. I actually lived in a cheap apartment out of school that was made of cinder blocks that had a texture similar to what you'd see on a ceiling. I would actually scrape up my arms if I brushed against it too hard and it looked like hell.
 

cowboy73

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
2,609
Location
southern Indiana
No texture on the walls. The texture will hold dirt and look dirty way before a smooth wall will. And if the wall gets damaged, fixing a textured spot so that it doesn't show is darn near impossible unless you know how the texturing was done. A good quality paint on a smooth wall can take some minor cleansing with a damp sponge if a spot gets dirty. A smooth wall is also much easier to paint to start with, and repaint in the future. Another thing is that wall textures aren't very durable and can flake off rather easily.
 

Will67

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 17, 2006
Messages
852
Location
Hell's half acre
I textured mine and yeah it's a pain to clean spider webs off of. I did a texture cause I like the look and it hides minor imperfections in my tape job.
 

VWandDodge

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
951
I hate textured walls and never saw such a thing until I came to Oklahoma. Very few people here take care of what they own and willingly spend money on quality, so, a majority have their walls textured because it's quick and cheap. Over time, the texture will flake off if it's bumped which makes repairs difficult. The same for the popcorn ceilings. I scraped every ceiling of my house, mudded the low spots and then covered them with textured paint. As I remodel the rooms I gut the walls, install new drywall, fill and sand everything smooth.
 

Jeff Ivers

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
2,556
Location
Oklahoma
There are different kinds of texture available for walls. I textured the walls of my shop years ago and have not had problems with either flaking or holding dirt. The texture on my walls is sprayed on joint compound. The advantage is not having to be so particular about the mud and tape job. I would not use sand to texture, which I have seen done, nor would I use the foam bits - the first is abrasive to skin and the second will flake.
 
OP
M

Mobilejay

Active member
Joined
Oct 3, 2007
Messages
27
Location
Houston
Gary, I am not. Our house has an attached 2 car garage that I will be painting as soon as I fix all the nail and hook holes from the previous owner. I will post up picks once I get that done and begin redoing everything. Thanks for everyones help on this, I will not be going the textured route. Thanks again.
 

vtx531

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
208
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
I textured mine to try to match the inside of the house. It turned out fine. Doesn't seem to get very dirty. Blow it off with the air compressor if it gets dusty? I dunno - never had a problem.
 

tcianci

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
The plaster in my garage is a light "skip trowel finish". It's linda like applying the plaster and finishing it semi smooth. It's painted with a semi gloss paint and an ocassional vacuming makes it look like new. The job is 11 years old now and still looks like the day it was painted.
 

Norcal

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
13,754
My shop was done w/ a spray knockdown texture, it's not that rough & have had no issues w/ it.
 

icecactus

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
302
What kinda texture are you looking at? I have the skip trowel texture and i like it. It doesn't seem to collect any dust and it does hide scrapes and stuff better to a degree.
 
OP
M

Mobilejay

Active member
Joined
Oct 3, 2007
Messages
27
Location
Houston
Hadn't really looked at any type of texture yet, just wanted to know pros and cons. My girlfriend said to do it, cause like you said, it will hide the scrapes more than non textured. I like the clean flat look though and from what some people have been saying here, I will just go with out texture. Plus that saves me a little bit of money as well.
 

InPrimer

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2007
Messages
651
Location
lake Havasu AZ
Just a reminder about popcorn ceilings, if they were shot yrs ago they might have asbestoes in the paint/joint compound, test a small area, it can be removed( popcorn) by saturating the area with a water sprayer and scrapping the stuff off, it will not harm you as long as the area is saturated In other words no airborun dust, and dispose all the residue. Had this problem at son's house best and safest way IMO is to veneer 1/4 drywall over the (removed) popcorn and refinish with joint compound and paint. Cost professionally was estimated at 1300$ .... by doing it ourselves ,cost of veneering drywall 1/4 in, tape joint compound and time say $400 labor was less than $600 you do the math.
 

VWandDodge

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
951
Just a reminder about popcorn ceilings, if they were shot yrs ago they might have asbestoes in the paint/joint compound, test a small area, it can be removed( popcorn) by saturating the area with a water sprayer and scrapping the stuff off, it will not harm you as long as the area is saturated In other words no airborun dust, and dispose all the residue. Had this problem at son's house best and safest way IMO is to veneer 1/4 drywall over the (removed) popcorn and refinish with joint compound and paint. Cost professionally was estimated at 1300$ .... by doing it ourselves ,cost of veneering drywall 1/4 in, tape joint compound and time say $400 labor was less than $600 you do the math.
Asbestos or not, that's the best way to remove it. AFIK, since my house was built in 1983 the popcorn ceiling was regular mud shot through a gun, but since it's Oklahoma there's no telling. Anyway, after learning the hard way in one room and wasting my money at Lowes on a bottle of textured ceiling removing solvent I figured warm water via a spray mist to wet a large area followed by scraping with a large drywall knife yielded the best results. Just spray the area enough to dampen but not saturate it, let it set for a few moments and hit with the knife. It takes a bit of practice to judge whether it's being soaked too heavily or too lightly. I cleared a vaulted ceiling in a 19'x22' living room in just under an hour.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
How did this turn into a discussion about Popcorn ceilings?

Popcorn ceilings are textured.

My vote is for smooth walls or walls like Rwhite has. A light orange peel. Any rougher texture, walls or ceilings, will hold dirt, spiderwebs, and dustwebs. You can wipe them down but they want to stick to the texture :mad:

I have textured ceilings (stomped) and absolutely hate them. I can't wet them down either to scrape them as they have been painted a few times. So the only alternative is to drywall over them :sad:
 

carap

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
69
Location
OKC
Asbestos or not, that's the best way to remove it. AFIK, since my house was built in 1983 the popcorn ceiling was regular mud shot through a gun, but since it's Oklahoma there's no telling. Anyway, after learning the hard way in one room and wasting my money at Lowes on a bottle of textured ceiling removing solvent I figured warm water via a spray mist to wet a large area followed by scraping with a large drywall knife yielded the best results. Just spray the area enough to dampen but not saturate it, let it set for a few moments and hit with the knife. It takes a bit of practice to judge whether it's being soaked too heavily or too lightly. I cleared a vaulted ceiling in a 19'x22' living room in just under an hour.

Sounds like you have a problem with Oklahoma. What brought you to my fine state? Boomer Sooner
 

W650Mike

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
1,093
Location
North Central Texas
rwhite69's is as much texture as I would want. Just enough to break up imperfections but not enough to hold dust. Easy to do by thinning topping mud with latex paint. Thin some; test on a scrap; and work your way to a fine spatter through the small port on a hopper gun. Thinning with paint will also make the texture "tougher" against impact.

I prefer smooth but the taping job has to be very good to look good with gloss paints.
 

VWandDodge

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2011
Messages
951
rwhite69's is as much texture as I would want. Just enough to break up imperfections but not enough to hold dust. Easy to do by thinning topping mud with latex paint. Thin some; test on a scrap; and work your way to a fine spatter through the small port on a hopper gun. Thinning with paint will also make the texture "tougher" against impact.

I prefer smooth but the taping job has to be very good to look good with gloss paints.

Yes, but the other issue is the density of a mudded and smoothed joint versus the paper of the board. That's why, after the joints and dimples are smoothed that the wall should be covered with an acrylic primer before painting. This will prevent shadowing.
 

rwhite692

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2008
Messages
1,850
Location
Central Valley, CA
Yes, but the other issue is the density of a mudded and smoothed joint versus the paper of the board. That's why, after the joints and dimples are smoothed that the wall should be covered with an acrylic primer before painting. This will prevent shadowing.


Did the whole interior of mine with two coats of Glidden acrylic new drywall primer after texture and before the color coats.
 

JC23

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
11,718
Location
Northcoast
If you go with texture, take the time to use a sealer and maybe paint. That will keep it looking good longer. We just painted my GF's texture garage and it really sucked up the paint.
 

W650Mike

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 17, 2010
Messages
1,093
Location
North Central Texas
Good point VW/Dodge; paint - texture - paint. The final coat should be as glossy as you can stand. Better reflective properties and easier to clean.
 

Kevin54

MEMBER EMERITUS
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
29,341
Location
Urbana, Ohio
rwhite69's is as much texture as I would want. Just enough to break up imperfections but not enough to hold dust. Easy to do by thinning topping mud with latex paint. Thin some; test on a scrap; and work your way to a fine spatter through the small port on a hopper gun. Thinning with paint will also make the texture "tougher" against impact.

I prefer smooth but the taping job has to be very good to look good with gloss paints.

That's the way we always painted apartments when fixing them up. It hides a lot of flaws.
 

icecactus

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
302
I used to live in MI where the walls were always smooth. Now i live in phoenix where everything has a texture. Took me a while to get used to the texture, but i would never go back to the smooth wall now. The skip trowel texture hides well and collects ZERO dust. I can wipe may hand across the wall and nothing. The only issue i have with the skip trowel texture is that its harder to paint. I dont think i was using a thick enough nap roller though.
 

Foxxtrot

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
100
Location
Huntersville, NC
Yeah, I lived in FL all my life, and texture was always used. Orange peel texture on walls, kitchen and bath ceilings, and popcorn on the rest "back in the day", and "knockdown" texture on the ceilings in the more recent years. Moving to NC, it was a shock to me that all walls and ceilings were smooth finish.
I've gotten used to it, but to be honest, I don't see a difference in holding dust or cobwebs. My last house here in the garage was filthy after a couple of years, and my last home in FL was about the same. Both required an equal amount of work to clean up.
My opinion is that you should do whatever you prefer. If you aren't as good at drywall, it may be beneficial to you to add some texture to hide the imperfections. If you can spend the time and effort, smooth finish works well. Either one will benefit from primer and a couple of coats of paint, and the glossier finishes make it easier to keep clean. (A semi-gloss paint will clean the same whether it is over a smooth or textured wall)
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom