theoldwizard1
Well-known member
My one can that is to last me a lifetime is getting very thick/sticky. What solvent can I add a few drops of to bring it back to "peanut butter" consistence ?
TFE pipe paste (dope)
- Thread starter theoldwizard1
- Start date
MacMcMacmac
Well-known member
After getting sick of seeing 3/4 full cans of dried up Masters Pipe Dope being chucked at work, I diluted some with isopropyl alcohol and it works just fine. I believe I read the MSDS sheet to see what was in it. It might take a bit of mixing, but I have brought back some stuff that was almost like old window putty.
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
I am guilty of trashing the stuff. The dope was such a small part of the job I never took a chance on iffy sealant. Besides, one of my co workers could be depended on to steal the goop.
Now that I pay for it, I will try to remember "iso".
Now that I pay for it, I will try to remember "iso".
Murphy4570
Well-known member
I prefer using the tape myself. No mess and shelf life is damn near forever.
slip knot
Well-known member
if I even look at it wrong its gonna leak, so I never take a chance on iffy sealant. I'll pitch a 1/2 gone can if it starts looking questionable.
OP
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Well the Harvey TFE past main ingredients are calcium carbonate (powdered limestone), 50-70%, and oxidized soybean oil, 10-30%. A small amount of this last item would probably work well, but I have never heard of that stuff.
^^ This ^^ Without a doubt. Even when I look at it right!
lbhsbz
Well-known member
Spend $5 on a new can...it'll last you till your kids throw it away after you die. I use tape and pipe dope....especially with the modern chinese fittings who's threads don't seem to be cut to any specific standard...seems to work OK.
SuperCat
Well-known member
I have to agree with most folks, just buy a new can of pipe dope for your next project. Yes, it is wasteful to some, but nobody wants their new project or repair job to leak. I don't think anyone has the time to do a job twice. When I watched a pro plumber install water supply valves on my bath remodel, he used teflon tape and dope. It has been almost 10 years and it has not leaked. 
dr_clyde
Well-known member
Just buy a new can. Not worth screwing with for a few bucks.
I use tape and dope. I learned from the local pipe fitters union, we have them at work all the time. For carbon steel, tape and dope. For stainless, tape and food grade anti-seize.
I use tape and dope. I learned from the local pipe fitters union, we have them at work all the time. For carbon steel, tape and dope. For stainless, tape and food grade anti-seize.
Finky198
Well-known member
+1 ^^^ that's how I was taught from a master plumber. I haven't had a leak since following that advice... buy a new can. tubes are nice and easy to handle...
On big steel pipe 2"+ We use Dope, tape, than more dope as it helps keeps the tape in place.
On big steel pipe 2"+ We use Dope, tape, than more dope as it helps keeps the tape in place.
bwringer
Well-known member
Sort of a side note, but has anyone else noted that the brush in the lid in this stuff (and antiseize, and similar products) only seems to reach about half the product in the can?
Drives me batty.
But yeah, I agree -- if it's been long enough that the old stuff is getting crusty, buy a new can. It's not going to break you.
Drives me batty.
But yeah, I agree -- if it's been long enough that the old stuff is getting crusty, buy a new can. It's not going to break you.
sberry
Banned
I used to have several cans, as work slowed down it got hard before it got used, now I keep 1 and when it gets crusty replace it.
Provincial
Well-known member
It is planned that way so you only get to use half the can.
Or maybe they know it will get hard before you use more than half, so you will be throwing it out anyway.
Antiseize I scoop out the bottom and add to the new bottle with a plastic spoon. I throw out the spoon.
rlitman
Well-known member
I find it interesting that window putty was mentioned. Window putty is powdered limestone and boiled linseed oil. The oxidized soybean oil would be nothing more than a slower drying oil. I know that Rectorseal 5 (my dope of choice) uses powdered leather instead of other fillers.
But as for recovering old window putty, I'd say that is not possible. As any of these curing oils start to "dry", they polymerize in an irreversible way. So if your dope's oil is getting crusty, I'd say it is time to toss the can, and next time buy the smaller size.
Or, if you don't like the tape (and I wouldn't blame you), and don't want your dope drying out, try dope in crayon form. That's the BEST stuff out there, and the only product my local gas company uses.
Packard V8
Well-known member
For fifty years, I used either tape or dope, but I had a local plumber helping me on a big job and he used both on all tapered pipe joints. He said, "I'd use three kinds if I knew where to find something else."
jack vines
jack vines
Finky198
Well-known member
When your job (^^^) depends on being leak free it's much easier to get it done right the first time... Union labor isn't the cheapest esp twice... but tape and dope are penny's on the dollar.
The ones that gets me are the guys that put a dot of dope and think it'll spread itself out on its own when assembled...
The ones that gets me are the guys that put a dot of dope and think it'll spread itself out on its own when assembled...
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Dagny
Well-known member
I do a lot of lp gas lines in black pipe rectors no. 5 for me. wheatland pipe ward fittings.
engineer2
Well-known member
you could probably use cooking oil. Gas company employee told me they put dope on both the male and female threads for NG piping. Been doing that for years without an issue.
Worked in sprinkler system design for 5 years, worked in the fab shop too when needed. Worked with union fitters for those 5 years, great guys, and I never saw a roll of tape ever. We all used dope, a good amount on each joint.
Most of our fab was done on Rigid machines as well though, so the joints were all gudentite. If it wasn't made up on a Rigid it was made up by some beast of a fitter with a huge pipe wrench haha.
Most systems out here are dry pipe systems with pressurized air inside them, so they had to be more air tight then water tight....although there were jockey pumps on them to maintain what little loss there was.
Most of our fab was done on Rigid machines as well though, so the joints were all gudentite. If it wasn't made up on a Rigid it was made up by some beast of a fitter with a huge pipe wrench haha.
Most systems out here are dry pipe systems with pressurized air inside them, so they had to be more air tight then water tight....although there were jockey pumps on them to maintain what little loss there was.
Schurkey
Well-known member
I wish I'd get harder as I get older.
Now I use Loctite/Permatex "PST" #592. Can't be beat. Hardens like thread locker in the absence of air. (4 hours to reposition the fitting, if needed.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AAJTYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Now I use Loctite/Permatex "PST" #592. Can't be beat. Hardens like thread locker in the absence of air. (4 hours to reposition the fitting, if needed.)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AAJTYS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
oldtractors
Well-known member
They now sell dope in tiny toothpaste tubes for about $2 each. You can squeeze it out on the threads with little mess. The tube seals tighter than the can so it last a long time, but if it gets too hard, go buy another tube for $2.
bwringer
Well-known member
OP
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
For medium pressure lines (like on air compressor) that you can not get to seal with average products, use Loctite 567 Sealant. Threads must be clean and dry. It should cure at least overnight (at room temperature) before applying pressure.
Warning ! Once this stuff sets, it is like epoxy ! Brass and copper will just twist/bend when you try to take them apart. You have to apply heat to get the joint to come apart.
Warning ! Once this stuff sets, it is like epoxy ! Brass and copper will just twist/bend when you try to take them apart. You have to apply heat to get the joint to come apart.
slip knot
Well-known member
My plumber left me some tape and dope called Blue Monster. Works on fuel as well as water and air. I've been using it some and it seems to be pretty good.
Schurkey
Well-known member
565, 567, 592 and some others are all in the same family of anaerobic, PTFE (Teflon) enhanced thread sealers.
There's slow-setting, fast-setting, high-temperature, and "strength" differences.
Ole Slewfoot
Well-known member
Gasolia soft set mostly here...fuel, food, acid, gas, etc between -100 and +600F
not for E20+ or O2 piping.
not for E20+ or O2 piping.
DFB
Well-known member
Found an older bottle of "thread sealant" that was getting dry in a bucket of plumbing tools today while I was reorganizing all my work gear, I also looked online for some MSDS ingredients and like it was noted earlier it general most are good percentage of a veg grade oil (up to 30%) along with Kaolin clay as the base and also Isopropyl (thinking it must be for quicker drying possibly)
So I tried the veg oil trick to thin it up some. Not much and just a couple of tablespoons was enough to bring it back to a more usable consistency. I didn't have any isopropyl handy but if I did I probably would have a teaspoon's worth anyhow.
Just as an FYI for the earlier discussion the label on my bottle also says helps to "seal" threaded pipe bolts and studs
So I tried the veg oil trick to thin it up some. Not much and just a couple of tablespoons was enough to bring it back to a more usable consistency. I didn't have any isopropyl handy but if I did I probably would have a teaspoon's worth anyhow.
Just as an FYI for the earlier discussion the label on my bottle also says helps to "seal" threaded pipe bolts and studs