The $11 Trailer Project

[The_Geologist]

I recently picked up a trailer made from the bed of a 1970s Datsun pickup. I got it at auction for a whopping $11.

Here are some photos from when I first saw the trailer on the auction website. I think the amount of junk in the trailer contributed to the lack of bids people were making on it...

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Fortunately, by the time I went to pick up the trailer, someone had removed all the garbage, leaving a mostly empty trailer.

The tires both took air, surprisingly. No lights worked on the trailer, so used one of those towing light kits from HF. Worked like a charm. Kept the trailer under 50 - 55 mph on the 20 mile trip home. Didn't have any issues, which was great considering it was the first time I have ever towed a trailer.

The first thing I did was to remove all the remaining mud and other debris that was still in the trailer. I think I removed about 10 pounds of "stuff". No pics of that process, unfortunately.

My plan is to fix it up enough to make it roadworthy, as its primary job will be to haul stuff to the dump. I have a lot to learn regarding trailers, so hope to be able to learn from the folks on the forum.

 

[The_Geologist]

The first thing I have done to the trailer thus far is give it a thorough pressure washing. It had a fair amount of mud caked in the back bumper, and lichen was growing on its sides. I'm sure the trailer hadn't been moved in years prior to my purchasing it.

Here are some before pics:

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And here are some after pictures. Pressure washing this trailer was oddly satisfying.

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[The_Geologist]

I went ahead and took the tires off, along with the spare. Got some used replacements in town. Thought that $30 a tire wasn't bad, including mounting and balancing.

Before I put the tires back on, I had some questions for the forum.


1. Do I really need to keep the brakes on such a small trailer? I am pulling this with a Toyota Tundra, so don't imagine it will ever be heavy enough to matter. I figure removing the brake lines and brake shoes would help a little with the weight. One of the wheels doesn't rotate all that well anyway, so I assume the shoes are rubbing on the drum.

2. Anyone have an idea of how the wheel bearings on these Datsuns were lubed? Meaning, were they lubed from the axle itself, or separately greased from the hubs? I figure I will find out when I get the brake drums off, but wanted to ask first.

3. Any recommendations on replacement wiring harnesses for one of these? I figure rewiring the lights would be easier when the tires are off.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[RogueFab]

1 - I wouldn't run brakes on it unless you're going to load it up over 2k.

3 - I would buy a new trailer wiring harness. They sell these pre made for 4 pin and 7 pin.

I don't know on #2

 

[cbacres]

I’m assuming it’s the original truck axle on the trailer, you’ll probably need to keep the differential oil at level. Don’t know if the outboard bearings get oil from differential or if sealed, you’d have to look up maintenance for that particular truck.
I agree on the brakes, wouldn’t worry about for up around 2,000 lbs. you would have to convert to electric anyway as those are still likely the truck hydraulic brakes.

Dad built a trailer like that years ago and we used the **** out of it.

Good score. You can wire rush the rust and coat with ospho, it’ll netrulize the rust and you can primer right over it.

 

[u2slow]

I love old pickup bed/frame trailers. I've built a couple. Mine have been lubed with the diff oil, but that's chevy, ford, or dodge axles.

I can go to 3300# gross, legally, without brakes so not worth the hassle IMO. I will run heavier providing I'm using enough truck and load it heavy on the tongue.

 

[mike93lx]

the brakes on that trailer aren't doing anything as there is no master cylinder for them. You can gut them.

just buy any 4-wire harness kit and replace everything on it.

 

[no704]

For hauling to the dump, you should make it a dump bed.

 

[bri_man57]

A harbor freight wiring kit, or the entire light kit will do you just fine. Cheap and all new.

Like said before, you would needed electric breaks anyways so that stuff is doing nothing for you.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

 

[greenlizard]

Yeah, the brakes can definitely go. You might want to insure the diff gears have been removed. They cause a fair bit of unnecessary inertia both staring and stopping if still in place.
You did good!

 

[Farmall450]

the brakes on that trailer aren't doing anything as there is no master cylinder for them. You can gut them.

just buy any 4-wire harness kit and replace everything on it.

Yup, they're just remnants.

 

[gnpenning]

Adam, sounds like you got your tires from big sky tires in evergreen.

1. As mentioned if that is the factory axle there is no easy way to make the brakes work. I would eliminate them.

2. Again assuming it's the original rear end you will need to keep oil in the differential, you don't need it locking up, that is a semi floating rear end. There are no hubs to grease like a regular trailer axle. I don't recall if they are sealed or oil bearings. Either way it would be a good idea to check them. I believe that is a fairly strong rear end for it's size.


3. Now would be a good time to go with LED lights and mount out of harms way. Murdoch's and HF along with the local parts stores will have what you need.


While you are at it put on some tie down locations all the way around. .

Did it come with a title?

 

[gnpenning]

Yeah, the brakes can definitely go. You might want to insure the diff gears have been removed. They cause a fair bit of unnecessary inertia both staring and stopping if still in place.
You did good!

Spider gears will need to stay for inner axle support. Ring gear can go.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I had a Courier bed trailer years ago that I used to haul my quad. It worked really well but the springs are designed to be fully functional with the front suspension acting as a sway bar. The trailer would wobble down the road until I put a bolt on add-a-leaf to firm it up then it did pretty well.

 

[The_Geologist]

Adam, sounds like you got your tires from big sky tires in evergreen.

Actually, the tires came from Flathead Valley Pawn (also in Evergreen). Big Sky didn't have anything in the size I needed when I went by.

1. As mentioned if that is the factory axle there is no easy way to make the brakes work. I would eliminate them.

From what you and the others have said, it makes very good sense to remove the brakes. Hopefully the drums cooperate and come off!

2. Again assuming it's the original rear end you will need to keep oil in the differential, you don't need it locking up, that is a semi floating rear end. There are no hubs to grease like a regular trailer axle. I don't recall if they are sealed or oil bearings. Either way it would be a good idea to check them. I believe that is a fairly strong rear end for it's size.

Good to know! Thanks! I will get up under there and see how full the differential is.

3. Now would be a good time to go with LED lights and mount out of harms way. Murdoch's and HF along with the local parts stores will have what you need.

I was wondering if the original light fixtures might still work, but if they don't this would be a great option. I have to take a look at the HF wiring harness that others have suggested, too.

While you are at it put on some tie down locations all the way around.

That's the nice thing about this trailer...all the little hooks on the sides, plus someone put four large hooks on the outside further down. I think some tie downs inside the bed would help, too.

Did it come with a title?

No, no title, but I don't believe that will be hard to deal with. As far as I understand it, I need to have the trailer inspected as part of the process, so I figured I would get it roadworthy first. I do have a bill of sale, the old permanent plate that was on it, and I found a faded copy of a registration stashed in a container taped underneath the trailer frame.

 

[The_Geologist]

I had a Courier bed trailer years ago that I used to haul my quad. It worked really well but the springs are designed to be fully functional with the front suspension acting as a sway bar. The trailer would wobble down the road until I put a bolt on add-a-leaf to firm it up then it did pretty well.

That sounds like a great suggestion. Thank you! I will see how it behaves when I load it up.

 

[captain14]

You got a good deal on the trailer. Keep us posted on the progress you make this year on it.

LED lights are the way to go. Consider how to protect them from damage before you mount them. That seems to be a common complaint with trailer lights- they get broken easily.

 

[mv213]

That’s a steal for $11. You ****! LOL. I love the exterior tie-downs on those old Japanese truck beds, they are great for tying down cargo netting to hold your load going to the dump.

 

[gnpenning]

Forgot about the factory tie downs. They are a great addition from the factory. Keep you out of trouble when you go to the landfill or green box sites. I like a lot of tie down options both inside and outside the box, high and low.

At least the tires places are close to each other.

With the spare on do you have room for a little storage box, for straps, jack, tire iron, tarp, et.

DMV should help with old registration information. Do that before putting much more time and money in.

 

[Kenstone1]

Is the gas tank still under there?
Remove it if it is, as well as the filler neck, and screw/weld the fuel door shut so it cannot be opened.

.

 

[Farmall450]

DMV should help with old registration information. Do that before putting much more time and money in.

Yeah, in my state it would be DOA w/out a title. Wisconsin, no big deal.

 

[mike93lx]

Yeah, in my state it would be DOA w/out a title. Wisconsin, no big deal.

In MA, you can just call it a home built and basically start over

 

[u2slow]

No, no title, but I don't believe that will be hard to deal with. As far as I understand it, I need to have the trailer inspected as part of the process, so I figured I would get it roadworthy first. I do have a bill of sale, the old permanent plate that was on it, and I found a faded copy of a registration stashed in a container taped underneath the trailer frame.

Each jurisdiction is different, but in mine you just need some kind of receipt - for the whole thing, or major pieces (makes them happy so they can charge tax) or they can convert the original truck's registration over to a trailer. No inspection or VIN required at 3300# or less, but you have to tell them you installed the required lights... including the license plate light.

HTH

 

[The_Geologist]

Is the gas tank still under there?
Remove it if it is, as well as the filler neck, and screw/weld the fuel door shut so it cannot be opened.

.

They removed the tank years ago by the looks of it. Only the bracket under the frame is still there. Good suggestion, though!

 

[The_Geologist]

That’s a steal for $11. You ****! LOL. I love the exterior tie-downs on those old Japanese truck beds, they are great for tying down cargo netting to hold your load going to the dump.

Thanks! It should be a fun project.

 

[The_Geologist]

With the spare on do you have room for a little storage box, for straps, jack, tire iron, tarp, et.

The spare is currently able to be mounted on the front, but that would not leave much space for a tongue storage box. I might remove the spare mount and then just carry the spare tire in the truck when I am hauling. Keeps the spare out of the elements that way. Not sure that I want to go the route of mounting the spare back underneath the trailer.

DMV should help with old registration information. Do that before putting much more time and money in.

Agreed. They already have been most helpful in figuring out the VIN. Someone in the past tried to use a welder to "write" the VIN on the frame. Then it ended up it was missing digits. However, the DMV was able to confirm the VIN when I gave them the license plate number. If I want to find out more from the state, I have to pay for the owner/registration information, which isn't expensive.

 

[gnpenning]

Good to hear all the work and thought you have put into it already.

Still trying to figure which auction you picked it up from? And no I wouldn't have been bidding against you I have pickups with dump beds and utility trailers already. Now a wider and longer car hauler......

That was a great deal.

 

[The_Geologist]

Good to hear all the work and thought you have put into it already.

Still trying to figure which auction you picked it up from? And no I wouldn't have been bidding against you I have pickups with dump beds and utility trailers already. Now a wider and longer car hauler......

That was a great deal.

I'll send you a PM.

 

[Prospecter]

Love the trailer! I have its twin brother. Mine is light on the tongue. (Wasn't surprised at all to see it tipped back in your pictures!) I would avoid adding weight, like a spare, to the back, and additional weight on the front, such as a tool box would be quite helpful, both to avoid tipping, and to improve road handling. Mine is just a woods trailer behind my tractor, but is still bouncy. Helper springs would be helpful stiffen the suspension.

 

[The_Geologist]

I haven't done much on the trailer this week due to work and some other things.

However, I did find one of the "new-used" tires I got last week had gone completely flat and came off the bead already. Took it back to where I got it and they found a hole in the sidewall... Not sure how all of us (including me) missed that one originally. Fortunately, they were cool about it and replaced the tire with one that turned out to be better anyway.

Love the trailer! I have its twin brother. Mine is light on the tongue. (Wasn't surprised at all to see it tipped back in your pictures!) I would avoid adding weight, like a spare, to the back, and additional weight on the front, such as a tool box would be quite helpful, both to avoid tipping, and to improve road handling. Mine is just a woods trailer behind my tractor, but is still bouncy. Helper springs would be helpful stiffen the suspension.

Thanks for the suggestions. It makes sense that hanging the spare from where it might have been originally would cause balance issues.

I haven't looked too closely at the suspension that is on there, but it looked like it might have been the original shocks. Can you clarify what you mean by "helper springs"? All this trailer stuff is new to me!

 

[Dumber than lumber]

If you think i am going to give you a You **** you are rwong.

 

[The_Geologist]

Did a little more work on the trailer the past couple of days.

Removed the brake lines and cables. Still had the emergency brake cables attached, too.

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Removed the old wiring. There was the original pickup wiring, along with an aftermarket set. Neither were in operational condition.

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Took off the original tail lights and side marker lights. These are so rusted that they are not worth trying to salvage. The lens covers might be useful, though. The second set of lights they added on the tailgate were toast, so those got pulled too.

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After copious amounts of PB Blaster and many whacks with a 4-lb. drilling hammer, I was able to get the brake drums off of the hubs. Pulled the brake shoes, springs, and the adjuster out. I didn't pull out the cylinder at the top, but may do so before I put the drums back on.

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Decided that I didn't need the long piece of all-thread on the front where the spare tire used to be mounted. Now I can mount a storage box on the front with fewer issues.

Pulled off the not-so-stylish pieces of mudflap that someone had attached. Not sure I really need to have mudflaps anyway.

I estimate that I removed anywhere from 10 - 15 pounds of stuff off the trailer in doing this.

Wiring will happen next, but I need to figure out what type of LED lighting I want to use first. I'd like to use something that would mount similarly to how the original light fixtures did below the tailgate.

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I could simply go with the HF trailer light kit, but I hate that those tail lights hang out to the sides of the trailer, where they are much more likely to get broken off. Anyone have thoughts on alternatives?

 

[Kenstone1]

"I didn't pull out the cylinder at the top, but may do so before I put the drums back on."

What do you need the drums for?
To me they're just dead weight, why not leave them off
jmo,
Edit: backing plates too...toss them.

 

[The_Geologist]

"I didn't pull out the cylinder at the top, but may do so before I put the drums back on."

What do you need the drums for?
To me they're just dead weight, why not leave them off
jmo,
Edit: backing plates too...toss them.

I hadn't thought of that. Shows how little I know about all this stuff!

 

[AZ Pete]

when done, the tongue weight should be 10%+ of the total trailer weight to avoid sway. Looks like a fun project and you did get a great deal.

 

[bradpac]

I would just find some small LED lights that would fit inside the stock housings, even if modification the the back of the housing was required. Then you could keep the stock lenses for a more finished look. or they do make some long, skinny LED lights that would fit in that spot between the bed and bumper.

or

 

[The_Geologist]

I greatly appreciate all the information and suggestions passed my way thus far.

I did some research into what it takes to pull the brake backing plates. For a Datsun truck of this vintage, it appears I need to pull the axle to do so, followed by using a press. That is more work than I think needs to be done for a project like this. The axle and differential are both working fine at this time and I don't want to risk screwing something up.

I do like using the original light housings with LED lights inside. I need to look more into how that would work.

 

[The Cobbler]

those oval LEDs pictured above would fit nice. they are totally sealed units so mounting is quite easy/forgiving . there are mounting brackets made for them as well, with a rubber doughnut that holds them in place

 

[Oldsnapper]

"I didn't pull out the cylinder at the top, but may do so before I put the drums back on."

What do you need the drums for?
To me they're just dead weight, why not leave them off
jmo,
Edit: backing plates too...toss them.

The drums may be needed as a type of spacer depending on the threads on the wheel studs. Some studs are nit fully threaded and the lug nits might run out of threads before the wheels are at the proper tightness. The lug nuts would reach the torque required but it would be from thread interference and not clamping torque,

 

[The_Geologist]

I ran into that exact issue when putting the wheels back on the trailer earlier this week. I tried it without the brake drums and it just wasn't right. Glad to know I wasn't crazy!