To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.

ConCretin

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Hey Dan in Pasadena,
I agree. The sooner Jack strips, the more likely he is to damage the concrete. The point I've been trying to make is that in a confined space like a lift pit, it is more about physical restraint than adhesion. If Jack hadn't been so damn efficient we could have helped him design a form that would strip more easily.

Jack, How long you going to make us wait before posting some pics of your concrete job?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

z28snksknr

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2009
Messages
1,827
Location
Turnersville, NJ
Okay. The advice on the releasing the forms is good -- but it came too late. Just under 2000 pounds of concrete mix have been poured.

So, with the knowledge that this is going to be a bear and probably involve some cutting -- when is the best time to take out the forms?

Damn, the ONE TIME I could claim that I had valuable advice for Jack Olsen, it falls short.

:sad:
 

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,139
Location
Pasadena, CA
Hey Dan in Pasadena,
I agree. The sooner Jack strips, the more likely he is to damage the concrete. The point I've been trying to make is that in a confined space like a lift pit, it is more about physical restraint than adhesion. If Jack hadn't been so damn efficient we could have helped him design a form that would strip more easily.

Jack, How long you going to make us wait before posting some pics of your concrete job?

All true. It may be a pain getting that box out of there; Jack's too efficient-part of the reason his back is hurtng him.
 
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
You'll have to beat the **** out of it to get it off. Just be patient (very hard) or you'll have it spalling all the edges. Did you know to agitate or vibrate the concrete? If not you MAY have some porosity or "rock pockets". Not too noticeable where you're doing this but if it bothers you, you can "bag & sack" the holes (if smaller) with straight cement and water. Let's see it after you pull the forms...if you dare!

I got the forms out this morning. The wood separated without too much of an issue; the tough part was getting the first corner apart, since I'd built the box sturdily to avoid any kind of cave-in. Luckily I had a long bimetal Sawzall blade which let me shear the first pair of screws and work from there.

In another thread, someone inadvertently flattered me by using the phrase "...on a scale of one to Jack Olsen." This is way off base, since I'm something of a hack when it comes to most of this stuff. A hack with a lot of paint. :)

Still, on a scale of one to Jack Olsen, my first concrete job rates about a two. I think it's sufficiently overbuilt, structurally. But cosmetically, it looks like the neighbor guy who fixes his sidewalk with some ready mix, pats it down with his hands to smooth it and simply doesn't care that it looks completely different than the rest of the walk.

I should have gotten some concrete tools more elaborate than my cut off piece of 2x4, no doubt (you can see it in the picture). But part of the reason I didn't -- aside from my deeply ingrained cheapness -- is that none of this pour will be visible when the project is done.

I got some cavitation along the sides where the forms were (as Dan predicted). I went over it with a quick hit of vinyl concrete (as Dan suggested). It actually looks worse in this picture than in real life, but here's the ugly snapshot:

pitsy.jpg


Structurally, I would guess that I'm fine. This isn't like a two-post lift where the concrete is stressed in a particular direction and has to act like a beam. The lift I'm putting in works fine attached to nothing at all. Bolting it into the concrete is just for added safety (earthquake? wildly off-center load?), and I've got eight inches of reinforced concrete now sitting underneath it.

That said, if I ever want to put concrete where people can see it, I'll get a truck to deliver it and go out and spring for a bull float, trowels, etc. :)

Surprisingly, my back keeps feeling better after each step in this process. Maybe I was sitting around too much?
 
Last edited:
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
And since I didn't post a picture of this before, here are what the forms looked like. I put the cross piece through the center for two reasons: one was that I worried I was going to fall in, and two was that I wanted to make sure the 2x10s didn't bow in (actually, they're 2x8s with a 1x2 attached to the underside). I tacked some light steel L-stock along the lower edges so that I could drag a 22" piece of 2x4 back and forth to level the concrete with the bottom edge of the form.

formsc.jpg


The picture was taken when I was test-fitting the form. After that, the rebar got bent more precisely, the piece of sheet metal got taken out, and the last of the dirt was removed.

Here it is when it was almost finished.

poured.jpg


Ugly, sure. But I think it'll do the job.
 

ConCretin

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Nothing wrong with that concrete job. Couldn't have done any better myself. Congratulations on your first successful concrete lift pit.
 

jriltex

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
20
Location
Cross Roads, TX
I imagine he was prepping the pit so the ground was fully saturated and would not draw water out of the concrete. Just my first thought....
 
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
Nothing wrong with that concrete job. Couldn't have done any better myself. Congratulations on your first successful concrete lift pit.
That's the most generous (and least true, honestly) thing I've been told all week. But thanks! I assure you, a professional like you could do a better job in your sleep.

What's up with all that water in there??

My idea for cleaning the mixer was to put a bunch of the shattered ceramic tile shards in it with water and let them slosh and cut all the sticking cement mix out. It worked pretty well, but I left it running for a half an hour inside the garage and the hose sprayer I had by it hadn't shut off all the way. My crooked old slab will hold water along that wall if it runs over the floor. It's easy to sweep away and out the door, but I didn't want to sweep anything onto the fresh concrete.

I did soak the clay where I was pouring the concrete first, though.

One of these days, I'd like to spend a few hours watching a crew pouring concrete. Now that I've stumbled through it, it would be fun to see how it's really done.
 

steven083008

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 21, 2009
Messages
225
Location
Raleigh, NC
My eyes were playing tricks on me. There is piece of metal in the bottom, and for some reason I thought it was the reflection of pooled water in the bottom of the hole.
Sorry for the confusion.

You're not the only one. I thought the EXACT same thing! Was certain it was a reflection of the ceiling, so when I was reading Jack's reply I kept thinking, "No Jack, the other picture with 2" of water, not the little puddle." :lol_hitti
 

jriltex

Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
20
Location
Cross Roads, TX
Too funny...I too made the same assumption...now that you point this out my brain will not allow my eyes to see the pooled water anymore! That is a good one.
 
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
Great Job Jack! Looking forward to the lift being put in and in use.
Thanks. Today I decided I couldn't wait any longer (since I'm going out of town tomorrow and had to get the car stowed).

The table itself weighs almost a thousand pounds. So lowering it in took a while -- about 90 minutes. I'm proud to report no severed or crushed limbs.

01firstdrop.jpg


And of course the thing you're never absolutely positive about is: did I measure everything right? Is it going to fit?

Well, the part for the cords did.

02cords.jpg


And... so did the lift itself:

03itsin.jpg


It actually lowers about an inch more than you see in this picture, since I anticipated shimming it.

Here it is raised:

04up.jpg


And here it is in a quick test with a load:

05carupunder.jpg


06carupwide.jpg


:beer:

I'm still keeping the concrete wet. I hope I haven't compromised its set too much by only waiting 54 hours. The load that's on it now is not very heavy and is widely distributed.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Texas Aggie

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
66
Location
Austin, TX
That is a really sweet setup. I think you'll love having the ability to get all four wheels off the ground without having to resort to jacks and jackstands. Can't wait to see the final product with all the cosmetics finished.
 

Dan in Pasadena

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2009
Messages
13,139
Location
Pasadena, CA
It looks great Jack. After final installation will the
tile on it exactly match the floor elevation or will you have to "fiddle" with it to get a flat floor?

What will you use for thinset to attach the tile to it?
 
OP
J

Jack Olsen

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
6,678
Location
Los Angeles
Thanks, guys.

It looks great Jack. After final installation will the tile on it exactly match the floor elevation or will you have to "fiddle" with it to get a flat floor?

What will you use for thinset to attach the tile to it?
I'll be able to fiddle with it somewhat with the shims that will support it. The existing floor isn't very flat, but I was able to 'split the difference' with some of the high and low spots with the six inches I bridged between where I cut and where the edge of the new wall ended up. We'll see how it comes out.

My plan is to use the more flexible type of thinset on the table top, which is 3/16" steel. If it flexes too much, I'll probably get cracking in the grout lines. But time will tell. If it doesn't work, I can shim the whole thing a little higher and paint a tile pattern on the table top.

It will never look completely invisible, but it should still give me useable floorspace.

I'm still grinning about the fact that I didn't need to demolish any piece of it and start over. It all fit the way I expected.

I was about 80% sure it would -- but I'm glad it did. :bounce:

Edit: Here's some crummy-camera video, which has no audio and lousy resolution. But it's the first time I ran it up and down.

VIDEO
 
Last edited:

red

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2009
Messages
720
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Hi Jack,
Something I do when I have a "poor' base to attach tile to is I mechanically fasten a piece of hardiboard or wonderboard (available in 1/4" thickness) and then use flex thinset for the tiles. Good Luck! -Ed
 

Squankum

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2011
Messages
7,711
Location
Southeast
:thumbup:Jack, are you sure you want to tile it? I see a heavy duty, height-adjustable workbench! Lord knows you need another workbench.

Health tip: yeah, your back probably enjoyed getting some use. Too much sitting and hunching in our modern world. Activity and excercise are important to keeping the back strong and supported!

Security tip: you've already made public so much about your car, house, and C clamp collection, maybe you shouldn't mention your itinerary, too? Call me paranoid. Oh, BTW, where do you keep the keys for the Porsche?
 

Oggy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,295
Location
Central New York
Jack I just wanted to say, I was driving home from work today when I saw a black porsche the same body style as yours, and the first thing I thought was "Jack Olsen." Then I slapped myself because I've been spending too much time on here, as it couldn't have possibly been you, I live in upstate NY...
 

ConCretin

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
3,378
Location
Central Maine
Great looking installation! Very clean. Can't wait to see the finished product.

I might have recommended you wait seven days before you loaded the concrete but advice is cheap and I'd probably have that car in the air sooner than you did.

Assuming you have a concrete that will reach 3000 in 28 days, you probably had 500-1000 psi in 48 hours, which is more than adequate to support a light weight (2000 lb??) race car given the foot print of your lift.
 

soj

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2007
Messages
729
Location
North Georgia

Not a bad start to the Jack Olsen Excavating and Concrete Construction Co.!! :bounce:

Off topic to the lift install, but on topic to your garage... To the left of the lift is a "wavy" looking area on the wall. Just curious, what the wall is in that area, and why the one spot of a different texture. Sure hope it is not sheetrock that got wet during this install.:confused:

I am by no means a tile guy, just have done two small diy tile jobs, kinda like you did this concrete, learn as you go... but... what about a construction adhesive, either in a caulking tube or something you trowel on. That stuff sticks to just about anything (including steel studs). I was wondering how well thin set will adhere to smooth metal. Just askin... throwing out ideas.

Another one... are you going to leave the metal painted? The bond is only as strong as the weakest link, and one of those links would be the paint to metal.
One more, and I will hush... To give whatever adhesive you use more grip, and to eliminate the paint adhesion question, grind the surface with a very coarse disk, to give it some "teeth".
 

royalton10

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 19, 2007
Messages
247
Location
Lancaster, Ohio
Jack,

I always look forward to reading your posts. You have a ton of people captivated when they open this section and ponder, "I wonder what new things Jack is doing?"

As a side note, I think you need to make a deal with the paint company of your choice. A bunch of people here at least would know instantly what "Olsen Green" would look like.

Congrats on the new baby and sorry to hear of your loss with your dog.

Have a great day!!

Doug
 

993James993

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
524
Jack, that is awesome! I was somewhat skeptical when you first posted about this lift, but seeing the end result I am convinced. Very nice set up!
 

bczygan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
22,002
Location
DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
I like the additional table surface idea. If the tile doesn't work, edge the tile with a strip of stainless and top the lift with a sheet of stainless and/or top with thick rubber mat. Will make a nice contrast with tile. Paint lift mechanism green to match rest of job.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom