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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
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Jack Olsen

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Hi Jack,
Something I do when I have a "poor' base to attach tile to is I mechanically fasten a piece of hardiboard or wonderboard (available in 1/4" thickness) and then use flex thinset for the tiles. Good Luck! -Ed
I won't be doing the tiling until May, probably. But I'm going to do some research and solicit some opinions about the 3/16" steel. It might be that it wont make sense to tile, in which case I can paint it to match the tile, or go in another direction. I'll have to see.

:thumbup:Jack, are you sure you want to tile it? I see a heavy duty, height-adjustable workbench! Lord knows you need another workbench.

Health tip: yeah, your back probably enjoyed getting some use. Too much sitting and hunching in our modern world. Activity and exercise are important to keeping the back strong and supported!

Security tip: you've already made public so much about your car, house, and C clamp collection, maybe you shouldn't mention your itinerary, too? Call me paranoid. Oh, BTW, where do you keep the keys for the Porsche?
Those are both good points. I should be more cautious, probably. But we've got a brother-in-law house-sitting and the house has a good security system.

Jack I just wanted to say, I was driving home from work today when I saw a black porsche the same body style as yours, and the first thing I thought was "Jack Olsen." Then I slapped myself because I've been spending too much time on here, as it couldn't have possibly been you, I live in upstate NY...
It's funny. A couple of years back I was pumping gas around the corner from here, and a pair of guys jumped out of a car with New York plates. One of them recognized my car and wanted to get his picture taken with me (and it). He was from Great Neck, I think. Very nice guy. But it was a surreal moment. The internet makes the world pretty small.

Great looking installation! Very clean. Can't wait to see the finished product.

I might have recommended you wait seven days before you loaded the concrete but advice is cheap and I'd probably have that car in the air sooner than you did.

Assuming you have a concrete that will reach 3000 in 28 days, you probably had 500-1000 psi in 48 hours, which is more than adequate to support a light weight (2000 lb??) race car given the foot print of your lift.
Yes. I should have waited. And if this was a two-post lift, or one that relied on the bearing/flexing strength of the concrete for functionality or safety, then I would not have done it. But I think in my case my margin for safety is pretty broad. The table doesn't have any requirements for the concrete it sits on or is attached to. And I've got eight inches under there now with 1/2" rebar.

But that kind of attitude is one of the reasons why it's good that I don't do this for a living.

Not a bad start to the Jack Olsen Excavating and Concrete Construction Co.!! :bounce:

Off topic to the lift install, but on topic to your garage... To the left of the lift is a "wavy" looking area on the wall. Just curious, what the wall is in that area, and why the one spot of a different texture. Sure hope it is not sheetrock that got wet during this install.:confused:

The wavy stuff is aluminum flashing, which I put over the plywood on my walls in order to make it more fire safe around my fold-down table that I use for welding.

Here it is without paint:

Metal_Sheeting.jpg


Jack, that is awesome! I was somewhat skeptical when you first posted about this lift, but seeing the end result I am convinced. Very nice set up!
I think you were rightfully cautious. The one part of this lift install that I'm most nervous about is what happens if someone sees it online and tries something even more half-baked than what I've done and hurts themselves. I think this lift and this installation is safe for my very-particular application. But it should by no means be seen as an idea that's easily copied or duplicated for other types of cars or garages. A lot of the ideas in my garage CAN be adapted easily. This one can not.

I'm sure you had a huge grin on your face as you were watching that thing go up and down.
If that's real time that thing is pretty quick going up.
Good eye. That's slightly sped up -- only because in real time it's boring. With load, it's 36 seconds to full height. In the clip I shortened it to 27 seconds. We fiction writers worry about presentation too much. :)
 
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Ocular Engineer

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I have to second the additional work bench comment.

Very nicely done, Jack. And I now know why you chose green for your color scheme. Its for the "green with envy" that we all feel looking at your garage. You have turned a small garage into a masterpiece!
 

1Garageman

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Jack that is just AWESOME! Every mans dream in his garage!

How long does it take for it to rise up your car and how much weight can it take?
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks. It's rated at 3000 pounds -- which is 700 pounds more than my car weighs. But as I've mentioned before, the same model of table is used on much higher capacity lift tables. The difference is the hydraulic units, which have to be rated for a higher duty cycle than would be typical for an automotive lift. So I suspect it could lift much more (in fact, I recently saw a 6500-pound unit for sale, and considered buying it), but the bottom line is that this is the only car I own that I'd be able to easily lift on this table without modifying it.

It takes 36 seconds to extend to full height, which is 36".

If I wanted to have a more broadly useful lift that would sit in the ground, I'd get one like this GJ member's lift.

However -- here's the advantage of this particular table for my particular car. The total cost for this project goes like this:

Used Lift Table - $445 (retails for closer to $3,000)
Home Depot Truck Rental - $20
Concrete Saw Rental - $85
Concrete, rebar and forms - $90
Replacement tiles - $30

TOTAL: $670

So, it's limited in its use -- but it was pretty cheap. I know guys who have spent that much on a single floor jack.

Recap of the inaugural 'lifting':

03itsin.jpg


05carupunder.jpg


06carupwide.jpg
 
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Duker

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Jack, I am waiting for your fabrication of the drop from the ceiling workbench top that will fit on your custom fabricated pieces that connect to the lift for an adjustable height work surface. This will be the epitome of your awesome maximization of space.:)
 

slimpickins

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I'm still grinning about the fact that I didn't need to demolish any piece of it and start over. It all fit the way I expected.

I was about 80% sure it would -- but I'm glad it did. :bounce:

It sure is great when you go to all the planning, measuring, drawing then more planning, more measuring, more drawing .... and then .... eureka! IT WORKS! That is very nicely done!!!

Thanks again for sharing!
 

Squankum

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Jack, just watched your video. It needs a soundtrack! Specifically, Also sprach Zarathustra, that's my suggestion.
 
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Jack Olsen

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That's exactly what I thought -- but I'm saving it for when the tiles are back and everything's finished. :)
 

Nighttrain

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You forgot to add the $6.00 bottle of Aleve for your back.

I had tiled a floor once (re-hab) and there was an area that several tiles just would not stay down due to the floor being real smooth and a little un-level. I ended up using Liquid Nails as a test and those tiles never budged after that. I'm wondering if that would work for the smooth table top to adhere the tile with. Just a thought!

Yesterday I was replacing the blades on my zero-turn mower and thought "I need a lift like Jack"
 

Zeke

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I wished I had kept up with this thread. You got the forms out fairly easily, so you dodged a bullet. A guy showed me how to build inside corner forms that had a release feature in opposite corners so there would be no binding. All done with screws from the inside, no screws buried blind in the concrete. Of course the spilled concrete goes right into the screw slot, so it's never perfect.

Anyway, very neat and tidy installation. I didn't think of the work table idea, but now that it's been mentioned, think of how easy it will be to load and unload the Jeep with your lift. All hydraulic table lifts I have seen still leave you with several inches of height fully collapsed.

Everyone should have a table lift like this for that reason alone!
 

Photo

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Nice job, Jack.

Like me, you no longer have to move the car out of the garage to clean the floor!

Now, get some green paint on that lift, it doesn't look right in that garage being blue.

Lane
 

cool50

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WOW WOW WOW what a great project and a great result. Now you have to keep us up on the cleanup and tile work. Good job Jack, once again.
 

kbuhagiar

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WOW WOW WOW what a great project and a great result. Now you have to keep us up on the cleanup and tile work. Good job Jack, once again.

Knowing Jack and his unbridled enthusiasm and boundless energy, I'm sure we won't have to wait very long for those updates! :thumbup:
 
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Jack Olsen

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You forgot to add the $6.00 bottle of Aleve for your back.
That's because I haven't done the grouting yet. Every time I think about that, my back and shoulders hurt.

I wished I had kept up with this thread. You got the forms out fairly easily, so you dodged a bullet. A guy showed me how to build inside corner forms that had a release feature in opposite corners so there would be no binding. All done with screws from the inside, no screws buried blind in the concrete. Of course the spilled concrete goes right into the screw slot, so it's never perfect.

Anyway, very neat and tidy installation. I didn't think of the work table idea, but now that it's been mentioned, think of how easy it will be to load and unload the Jeep with your lift. All hydraulic table lifts I have seen still leave you with several inches of height fully collapsed.

Everyone should have a table lift like this for that reason alone!
I had thought about holding the forms in place with a block on the inside corner with perpendicular wood screws holding both pieces in place. The talk of a form blowing out scared me, though, so I went for the never-gonna-fail approach. I overdid it, but I was lucky like you said. They peeled off without too much trouble once I sheared the first pair of wood screws.

The utility for loading stuff into the Jeep didn't occur to me until I'd dropped the whole thing in. But you're right. Now I can raise and load pretty much anything I can set on the floor of the garage.

Hey Jack, put some of that black/yellow warning tape all the way around the table. It will give it a very NASA look when coming up out of the ground.
I located a source for the tape -- but now a part of me is thinking I could apply the same pattern with my green and tan paints. It might be 'too cute,' but I'll at least think about it. It looks like it'd be pretty easy to mask.

Cool deal. Are there locks on the scissor?
Yes, although they're not the ratcheting kind you normally see on lifts.

There's also a velocity fuse in the hydraulic system which locks it up if there's a loss of pressure.

Knowing Jack and his unbridled enthusiasm and boundless energy, I'm sure we won't have to wait very long for those updates! :thumbup:

Good, because I just sitting here clicking the refresh button.:bowdown:

Except that I'm in Northern Illinois right now. And the guy house-sitting in Los Angeles does NOT know how to set tile.

I think I'll get it done in the first week of May. :(
 

nate379

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Where does the water go when it drips into that recess? I'd be worried about something like snowmelt filling it up after a while and rusting out the bottom of the lift.

Will be interesting to see how you make use of it. We had 2 at the shop I worked in and they never got used in the 2 years I was there.

Wondering, what is "12 gauge garage" mean? I don't see a gun in any of your photos or writeups.
 
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Jack Olsen

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Where does the water go when it drips into that recess? I'd be worried about something like snowmelt filling it up after a while and rusting out the bottom of the lift.

Will be interesting to see how you make use of it. We had 2 at the shop I worked in and they never got used in the 2 years I was there.

Wondering, what is "12 gauge garage" mean? I don't see a gun in any of your photos or writeups.

I'm going to have to see about water. I don't think it's going to be a problem -- and I've been spraying it down all week. Water evaporates very quickly in southern California. And normally -- even when it rains -- there isn't water on the floor in my garage. But if I need to put in a small sump-type pump in there, I will.

I've said it before and I'll say it again: this is not an idea for a lift that I would recommend for anyone else. My particular car is a good match with it, since it has a flat belly pan with no exhaust. When the car is up on the lift, I have complete access to my engine, transaxle, exhaust, pretty much everything -- and also to all four wheels. The majority of what I do on a regular basis is brakes and tires, since it's a track car. But a 911 engine and ****** drop down and out the bottom rear, which works with this type of lift.

Here's what the underside of a 911 looks like. My lifting surface goes under the sheet metal part. Everything else is accessible.

IMG_04951243526018.jpg


I've called it the 12-gauge garage because of the Strong Hold cabinets in it. They're made with 12-gauge steel. They're definitely overkill for a home garage -- they close with the heft of a bank vault and can support 1900 pounds per shelf. But I got all of mine second-hand, over time, and I like them a lot.
 
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Jack Olsen

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It's funny how much I use those things. Problem is, we've got another kid on the way so I'm probably going to have to buy more now that I've gotten them all dirty in the garage.
 

illmatyk

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I'm going to have to see about water. I don't think it's going to be a problem -- and I've been spraying it down all week. Water evaporates very quickly in southern California. And normally -- even when it rains -- there isn't water on the floor in my garage. But if I need to put in a small sump-type pump in there, I will.

I've said it before and I'll say it again: this is not an idea for a lift that I would recommend for anyone else. My particular car is a good match with it, since it has a flat belly pan with no exhaust. When the car is up on the lift, I have complete access to my engine, transaxle, exhaust, pretty much everything -- and also to all four wheels. The majority of what I do on a regular basis is brakes and tires, since it's a track car. But a 911 engine and ****** drop down and out the bottom rear, which works with this type of lift.

Here's what the underside of a 911 looks like. My lifting surface goes under the sheet metal part. Everything else is accessible.

IMG_04951243526018.jpg


I've called it the 12-gauge garage because of the Strong Hold cabinets in it. They're made with 12-gauge steel. They're definitely overkill for a home garage -- they close with the heft of a bank vault and can support 1900 pounds per shelf. But I got all of mine second-hand, over time, and I like them a lot.

That makes sense! When I was looking at the pic with your car on the lift, I wondered how would you be able to swap a trans out then I saw this post. Awesome work!:rocker:
 

787B

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Hi Jack,

Given the short length of your lift, I think safety stands are a must. Don't want that workhorse falling off the lift and trying to take revenge on those StrongHold cabinets when you drop the engine... :shocking:

(Picture links to the stands at HF)

And a burning question I haven't seen the answer to yet: What are you using the HF speed controller for on the left side by the garage door? Just a dimmer for the light? Looks like it's gone now that you put up the flashing.

Love reading about every project you do. Creative and practical stuff that just keeps me dreaming of things to do in my (rented) garage... Keep up the great work! :thumbup:
 

santagary

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That's because I haven't done the grouting yet. Every time I think about that, my back and shoulders hurt.

I had thought about holding the forms in place with a block on the inside corner with perpendicular wood screws holding both pieces in place. The talk of a form blowing out scared me, though, so I went for the never-gonna-fail approach. I overdid it, but I was lucky like you said. They peeled off without too much trouble once I sheared the first pair of wood screws.

The utility for loading stuff into the Jeep didn't occur to me until I'd dropped the whole thing in. But you're right. Now I can raise and load pretty much anything I can set on the floor of the garage.

I located a source for the tape -- but now a part of me is thinking I could apply the same pattern with my green and tan paints. It might be 'too cute,' but I'll at least think about it. It looks like it'd be pretty easy to mask.

Yes, although they're not the ratcheting kind you normally see on lifts.

There's also a velocity fuse in the hydraulic system which locks it up if there's a loss of pressure.





Except that I'm in Northern Illinois right now. And the guy house-sitting in Los Angeles does NOT know how to set tile.

I think I'll get it done in the first week of May. :(

Damn, now my wallpaper (your garage) is obsolete! :)
 
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Jack Olsen

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Given the short length of your lift, I think safety stands are a must. Don't want that workhorse falling off the lift and trying to take revenge on those StrongHold cabinets when you drop the engine... :shocking:
By length do you mean the 48" fore-aft measurement of the platform? On this car, that covers all six of the factory-approved jacking/support points -- simultaneously. So if the car were up on a traditional two-post lift, you would have no better fore-aft (or lateral) support. And when the belly pan is resting on the full table top, there's a lot more contact area than with a traditional lift. Even with weight removed from the front or rear, it should be as stable on this work surface as any commercial lift.

I tested the fore-aft balancing point of the car itself, and also (with some help) worked out how much that point would move with the engine out or front suspension points and gas tank removed.

From everything I've looked at, it will be fine. (Sounds like famous last words, I know. :) )

And a burning question I haven't seen the answer to yet: What are you using the HF speed controller for on the left side by the garage door? Just a dimmer for the light? Looks like it's gone now that you put up the flashing.
The HF controller is for the ventilation fan above the fold-down welding bench. The lights are almost all controlled by motion detectors.

Damn, now my wallpaper (your garage) is obsolete! :)
It keeps getting worked on -- but this change should be invisible when it's complete. There will be a visible rectangle shape cutting through some of the floor tiles, but that will be under the car. So my current picture should still look like the garage when the tiling is done and the center bench is back in place and everything is cleaned up.

alternativeangle1.jpg


We'll see how close I come to that.
 

kbuhagiar

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It keeps getting worked on -- but this change should be invisible when it's complete. There will be a visible rectangle shape cutting through some of the floor tiles, but that will be under the car. So my current picture should still look like the garage when the tiling is done and the center bench is back in place and everything is cleaned up.

alternativeangle1.jpg

I never get tired of looking at that picture...!
 

Zeke

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By length do you mean the 48" fore-aft measurement of the platform? On this car, that covers all six of the factory-approved jacking/support points -- simultaneously. So if the car were up on a traditional two-post lift, you would have no better fore-aft (or lateral) support. And when the belly pan is resting on the full table top, there's a lot more contact area than with a traditional lift. Even with weight removed from the front or rear, it should be as stable on this work surface as any commercial lift.

I tested the fore-aft balancing point of the car itself, and also (with some help) worked out how much that point would move with the engine out or front suspension points and gas tank removed.

From everything I've looked at, it will be fine. (Sounds like famous last words, I know. :) )
Jack, when I had the Ragamuffin on a cart, I had the back of the flat table right at the rear most portion of the belly pan. As you know, there is no more support after that except the ****** or motor cases. With engine and ****** in and the front suspension out, the car will tip. You may never face those circumstances, but now you know.

It would be great if you could install some slide in outriggers so when the car is up you have additional support at the back. Always favor the rear part of the floor pan if possible.

I had my car on this sitting on 2 x lumber placed across the frame:

DCP017781303585272.jpg


It would have been perfect if I had moved the rear casters to an offset outboard position. Cantilevered, if you will.

For the benefit of readers here, this is a Ragamuffin:

DCP008361118014689.jpg
 
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Jack Olsen

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Well, I'm back in California and found a little time to work. The tiles on the lift surface are just sitting there. The rest are set, but I've still got some cutting to do and a lot of grouting.

closerstill.jpg


Milt, I do have plans to compensate for a dramatically off-balance load. But (with help) I also worked some of the math out, relative to my car's balancing point. It should still be stable with front pieces removed. Although an empty tank, no struts, no wheels -- I'd throw in some of the stands like 787B shows. The more safety redundancy, the better.

proportionandshiftsrev1.jpg


I miss Ragamuffin.
 
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Jack Olsen

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Got the rest cut while the toddler napped inside the house. Now I've got to stick down the ones on the lift surface (which is going to take a different few steps) and grout. But it's getting closer...

alltilescut.jpg
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks. The tile is all down, now -- not just lying in place. The final piece will be to weld a metal band around the exterior of the lift top. It'll protect that edge.

Then grout (oh, my aching back and shoulders) and then green paint for the undercarriage.

I'm almost done.

And I'm looking forward to having the garage back.

To improve adhesion on the metal surface, I used a low-grit belt sander to etch the paint with a lot of grooves. I used two different kinds of thinset -- we'll see which one works better.
 
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Stuart in MN

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At least for grouting the tiles on the lift, you can raise it up and do the work without having to kneel down on the ground. :)
 

jmauld

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Your garage is great, but what really makes it stand out is the amount of detail and information that you are willing to share.

Just saying thanks for your effort.
 
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Jack Olsen

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At least for grouting the tiles on the lift, you can raise it up and do the work without having to kneel down on the ground. :)
We think alike. I did the tiling with it up in the raised position. MUCH easier on the knees.

Your garage is great, but what really makes it stand out is the amount of detail and information that you are willing to share.

Just saying thanks for your effort.

Thanks. I'm sure I over-document, but it's a good motivator for me, too.

Here it is a few minutes ago -- both up and down. I hope to get through the grout tomorrow. Then paint.

upanddown.jpg
 
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