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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
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Jack Olsen

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I'm unapologetically in love with my old 911. And I'm a sucker for a skilled illustrator doing a rendering of it. I found a guy who probably ought to be charging more for this sort of thing -- but this is a sideline for him and right now he's only charging $60. His name is Elie Man and you can contact him at @solewood on instagram or email directly to eliemman (at) gmail.com.

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Jack Olsen

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Terranova;5733538Oh god said:
I'm glad I passed the 'what does the DJ look like' test. :)



Is the name QuickJack a coïncidence?

Just kidding. Very well done. Your on camera performance is very good. I’m curious, being a writer, did you write a script for this review as well?

Nope. I'm not very good on camera when I'm talking normally. If I have a script, I'm terrible. So I just turned the camera on and rambled. The good news was that I could edit stuff out on the computer. In practice, that meant I cut about half of what I said.
 

Squankum

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Jack, I stumbled across this thread at Pelican the other night, people posting pictures of the different colors of (mostly) older 911's.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...ratuitous-pics-your-favorite-color-911-a.html

It made me realize just how dull and timid consumers have become nowadays. Also, why I'm theoretically not the biggest fan of the 911, they sure have grown on me, and when a 996 chassis car got posted in that thread, it just struck me as sad and blah. Nope, give me a 70's car in screaming yellow with a big vertical-wall front air dam and rocker scripts please!




_
 
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Jack Olsen

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The 911 shape takes some getting used to. It's striking and purposeful without really being beautiful, in my opinion. But I agree that -- compared to the 50-years-later versions -- the original design had something very compelling to offer.

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And those early colors were awesome.

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strike a poser

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Looks like the original IROC cars. Speaking of older Porsche's, I think the cars coming out of Singer are just pure ***. Rob Dickenson has got a real great eye for style.
 

Zeke

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Jack, you say you could transport the QuickJack to the track in your 911 but you say that the individual lift elements weigh 75 lbs ea. Wow. I don't think that's all too convenient to snake those into the cabin, in and out. And it's very doubtful that you would attempt to carry them on the roof although I have seen some pretty slick ways to lift something up to even track cab height for transport on a rack.

The design reminds me of one kind of kart stand:

181148817_new-streeter-stationary-electric-racing-go-kart-cart-.jpg


If I were you I'd buy one and lock it up at the track for use when you go out. But you'd certainly lose the benefit of having it at home for the Jeep, etc. Tough decisions.

I agree with you that it seems pretty good for the price and portability. I've seen something like that before or maybe it's been around for awhile.
 

Squankum

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The 911 shape takes some getting used to. It's striking and purposeful without really being beautiful, in my opinion.

One thing that's hard for younger people, or all of us with enough hindsight, is to remember the context of it all. If you had a brain full of 356's, then the 911 in the mid 60's was sleek and **** and less bulbous!

There are watercooled Porsches that still look good (944t/S2) or ... interesting... (928*) but man, people looking at them to day don't realize how crazy or great they looked in a world full of 1981 Olds Cutlasses, in a world where AMC cars were still on the roads.



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Zeke

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One thing that's hard for younger people, or all of us with enough hindsight, is to remember the context of it all. If you had a brain full of 356's, then the 911 in the mid 60's was sleek and **** and less bulbous!

There are watercooled Porsches that still look good (944t/S2) or ... interesting... (928*) but man, people looking at them to day don't realize how crazy or great they looked in a world full of 1981 Olds Cutlasses, in a world where AMC cars were still on the roads.



_
Except in SoCal where all marques of sports cars were zipping around as soon as they came out. It's been said that half of all Porsches sold in the US are sold in CA and a shitload of those were sold in Los Angeles and Orange Counties.
 

Squankum

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Except in SoCal where all marques of sports cars were zipping around as soon as they came out. It's been said that half of all Porsches sold in the US are sold in CA and a shitload of those were sold in Los Angeles and Orange Counties.

What I was trying to say was that to a person in 1965, 1966, when they saw their first 911... if they were a Porsche person and their brain was in 356 mode, it wouldn't look ... well, who's to say. I know some traditionalists shook their fists and didn't like it. But for most sports car people, I don't think it too much getting used to.

In retrospect, since everything got wider/fatter/more toadish, those first years of 911, when I see one in the the flesh, wow, the rear fenders/C pillars all the way down to the taillights seems so understated and graceful. Then everybody wanted a turbo look. And tires. Lots of tires. I know why, and I like lots of tire myself, but the early cars can be really purdy.

As for Porsche sales, yes, I remember those stats were the case for the longest time: America took half of what they made, and CA half of that. And no matter where you look in America, the people who live in places where you really could use one, can't afford one, and the people who can afford one live and work in places where they're stuck in traffic.:lol:


_
 

eikimart

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Thanks for posting that brochure! In the 80s my dad had a second-hand 914 in "Sunflower Yellow" (very popular color for that car). No A/C, which was brutal in Florida but that meant the targa roof was always open!
 

shortykorte

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Hey, what's wrong with the Olds Cutlass except for the late 70's.

These Porsche were poplar in the south back in the day. :confused:

:lol_hitti
 

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Jack Olsen

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Morning project. It makes me kind of nuts how quickly the hardwood deck I built grays from the sunlight and/or acid rain we get in Los Angeles. I've had to mop it with Oxalic Acid and re-oil it once a year. True to form, it had gone dark this spring:

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Yesterday afternoon I mopped it down with the acid mix to brighten it up. Today I re-applied a layer of Rosewood Oil (Penofin). I'd like to find a finish that lasts longer, on this particular wood (Brazilian Cumaru), but there's all kinds of contradictory advice online. Next year, I would rent a sander and get it all perfect if I could trust that the finish I put on it would last more than a season. Otherwise, I'll just keep doing what I've been doing.

It's drying now:

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Bob Hall

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As for Porsche sales, yes, I remember those stats were the case for the longest time: America took half of what they made, and CA half of that. And no matter where you look in America, the people who live in places where you really could use one, can't afford one, and the people who can afford one live and work in places where they're stuck in traffic.:lol:

_

How true. Growing up in rural West Virginia where the roads are a nothing but curves and hills, I recall seeing exactly one 911. It was some later issue with a "whale tale" and huge tires. I was blown away, but today I would much prefer an earlier less gussied up version. A car like that would have been an absolute ball on the roads around home, but no one that I knew could afford one. There were a few (very few) 914s around, but my 1970s teenage brain could not bend that far. I'd sure love to have one today.
 

slik560

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Nice job on the deck. Something I need to tend to myself. I gripe about the damage that the cold, ice, & snow do on wood here in the Midwest, but then....ACID RAID. Counting my blessings, I guess. :)
 

shortykorte

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Jack, on the Gary Sullivan radio show, a caller had the same problem but on a door. Every year it was cleaned, sanded, stained. Gary stated stains are not UV coatings. He recommended a satin or semi-gloss top coat with a UV coating like a spar varnish or urethane.

Deck still looks like a tranquil spot though.
 

slik560

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I tried a high-quality, outdoor urethane on some wood furniture and it peeled after one winter here. :( There has to be a solution, but I don't know what it is. Your deck is like taking care of the decking on a vintage Chris-Craft - an annual ritual. :)
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks. The shade fabric should be minimizing UV exposure -- that's really its only job. And the Penofin itself claims a 99% UV reduction. But the area under the rug -- where rainwater does make it through, but sunlight does not -- sees much better retention of the stuff. Maybe the oil simply evaporates, and the rug reduces the rate of that evaporation?

The more I research actual coatings, the more I'm hesitant about using them -- the work involved in eventually removing them is significant, compared to my current mop-and-coat strategy, which is only 6-8 hours, once a year.
 
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smschriefer

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Jack, are you doing a cleaning mop and then one coat of oil? I thought with oil you put on the first coat and wipe off the excess. Wait overnight and then apply a second coat of oil to achieve deeper penetration.
 
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Jack Olsen

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I think that is the process for most woods. But this Brazilian stuff is very hard and very dense (it sinks in water), and I'm pretty sure even the Penofin people say to apply their stuff to it once. But I'd have to look it up again to be sure.

The furniture is back. I'd say it's aging pretty gracefully at the 3-year mark.

Zoz2ri.jpg
 

Craptain

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I think that is the process for most woods. But this Brazilian stuff is very hard and very dense (it sinks in water), and I'm pretty sure even the Penofin people say to apply their stuff to it once. But I'd have to look it up again to be sure.

The furniture is back. I'd say it's aging pretty gracefully at the 3-year mark.

The density is part of the problem. The oil really doesn't soak into the wood it just stays at the surface. Having worked with many exotics I think you are doing all you realistically can. There may be some products that will work better but I have not found one yet. I use a lot of Ipe and have a hard time keeping a good finish on outdoor surfaces. Often it is just left to weather and turn gray, but that would not be appropriate for your use.
 

Mudnut

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Wow Jack,

What a fantastic garage, and storage solution set up. Have spent several hours reading and watching video's of your garage set up and Porsche. Made it past your patio and shade cloth structure and was in awe. Then I got to the models and photo shoot in the garage on page 158. You certainly live an interesting life. The closest thing to having models in my under construction garage was two ponies scratching their behinds on my Land Rover.

I still have a long way to go, but seeing your set up is an inspiration. I will construct a shade cloth frame similar for my tenant's car port. This will keep her, and my wife happy. Now to get on and finish my garage, or at least get the roof on!

Well done Jack,

Will continue watching so see what you come up with next.

Cheers,

Ken
 

Ducatisoc

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Has anyone noticed that Jack looks like a lovechild of Mike Rowe and Richard Dean Anderson from his McGyver days?
 

stonesg

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Man...! I made it. Late to the party and all 238 pages (so far).

Jack as others have said and I'm compelled to join them, congrats on the great job on all that you do and thank you so much for sharing.

I am about to close on a house and the reason I found this thread is I was looking for similar footprint garages to see how others utilized the space. Boy, did I hit the jackpot! (Ha... no pun intended...)

My garage is listed as 20x22 with an alcove (I've not gotten in to break out the tape measure for an accurate fix yet) so your space and how you've used it is a great source of ideas.

I'd also like to thank all the others who have contributed. Quite the brain trust here. Everything from tools to metallurgy to aerodynamics and chemistry to design and safety.

Kudos to all.

TG
 

CoopVA

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I think that is the process for most woods. But this Brazilian stuff is very hard and very dense (it sinks in water), and I'm pretty sure even the Penofin people say to apply their stuff to it once. But I'd have to look it up again to be sure.

The furniture is back. I'd say it's aging pretty gracefully at the 3-year mark.

Zoz2ri.jpg



Great deck Jack. Just got done working on mine... Took me three weekends...
 
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Jack Olsen

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Wow. Thanks, stonesg. I'm always impressed when someone makes it all the way through -- there ought to be some kind of prize. I'm glad the discussion helped you get an idea of what you want to go for. Make sure to document it here on the Journal.

And thanks, CoopVA! I've been working out there since I refinished it -- enjoying the fruits of my labor, I guess. At least I was until this two-day heat wave we just got. 105° today.

* * *

On the car front, I just did a Fathers Day project for the 911. 12 years ago, I put in some lightweight door panels in the style of the RS America model. While there were a lot of nice features about them, including sound deadening and nice, precise die cuts -- mine had gotten some pucker and warp over time -- mostly from driving in the rain. So I recently decided to re-do them. I wanted the same functionality, but with better weather/water resistance. And I was also curious if I could save some more weight.

bNd1WL.jpg


My factory door caps up above the panels weighed a little over 2 pounds each, and the aftermarket lightweight RSA door panels added another 2 lb 12 ounces to each door.

For weather resistance, I decided to not use wood or cardboard for the panels. Instead I got some corrugated plastic, which is a material made of polypropylene in the manner of corrugated cardboard. The stuff I used was 4mm thick. It's used for things like front-lawn signs and those Post Office sorting boxes (although those are thinner). Covered with leather, my door panels came in at 1 lb 8 oz each.

MCLEA0.jpg


For the cap, at least on the early cars, Porsche used a piece of formed steel bonded to a pretty dense piece of foam. I simply bent a piece of aluminum sheet over a 2x4 and matched the basic C-shape. No foam. Even covered with leather, my cap pieces were only 12 ounces each.

In this picture, you can see the back-side of the C-shape I bent the aluminum into.

J0cr4L.jpg


I was a little worried about finding something that would adhere leather to polypropylene, but I did a test with three different adhesives, and a Loctite spray I had on-hand passed with flying colors. (I think some polypropylene is pre-treated with a corona wire to allow inks and adhesives to bond to the stuff.)

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I sprayed the adhesive on both the leather and the corrugated plastic. I did the same with the aluminum. To hold the panels to my fiberglass doors, I used M4 aluminum rivnuts. You might notice that the cap pieces have a cutaway portion, my window crank is shortened, and my handles are at odd angles. This is all because I have a cage up against the doors.

But I was able to get most of it done during two stretches this weekend where my wife took the kids out to do something. The leather smell in the garage made finishing it up a pretty perfect Fathers Day morning project.

Here it is with the door closed, where you can see the special circumstances that come with having a cage in the cockpit.

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And here it is with the door open.

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All told, I shaved a little over 5 pounds off the car's total weight, which doesn't mean much -- except maybe that I could enjoy my Fathers Day dinner just a little bit more. :)
 
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stonesg

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You're a multidiciplinarian artist Jack. Very inspiring.

I may have seen it someway back but just to be sure... You're MIG welding?

I've run exactly one four inch bead of stick weld in my life but I've always thought that it would be quite the handy skill to have. Any reason for picking one other the other?

TG
 

Brian R

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Nice work. In racing they always say how fast you go is determined on how much money you want to spend. You show how it is also a function of what you can think of to reduce weight and you always find an efficient way of doing just that.

Showing my ignorance again - what is the purpose of red strap under door handles?
 

Squankum

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Five pounds? That's nothing to sneeze at! The lighter the car gets, the smaller the available reductions become.


Coroplast is also very popular over in ecomodder/hypermiler land as a material to build rear wheel skirts and belly pans out of. My first thought for a door panel was aluminum sheet, because, as the kids today say, "because racecar." But Coroplast is so cheap and easy to work with! :thumbup:
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks, guys.

You're a multidiciplinarian artist Jack. Very inspiring.

I may have seen it someway back but just to be sure... You're MIG welding?

I've run exactly one four inch bead of stick weld in my life but I've always thought that it would be quite the handy skill to have. Any reason for picking one other the other?

TG

95% of what I do is MIG. It's easy and effective.

I also have a little inverter stick welder that's the size of a lunchbox and only weighs 5 pounds. The nice thing about stick is it gives you a little more heat relative to your voltage (for thicker metal) and isn't as sensitive to contaminants on the metal, so you can get away with a little rust or oil on the material. But with a machine this light, and no bottle, it was possible to do some of the welding in place for the shade fabric I put up over my patio. Getting the 70-lb MIG and its bottle up there would have been a big undertaking.

patiocover06.jpg


almostthere.jpg


final01.jpg


I also have a TIG machine, that I got as a prize from a garage contest Classic Motorsports held. I still haven't used it. I know there will be a learning curve with it, and I don't do a whole lot of aluminum fabrication.

That said, my other recent car project was to replace the beat-up chin aero pieces that I bolt to the front of the car for track days. The idea is that I simplify the leading edge of the car with a vertical wall, and then have the high-pressure air at the nose push down on a splitter. I decided to go with a slightly larger splitter -- and one that would also favor the front corners, since the car doesn't go straight into the airflow when you're turning -- and turning is when you want the downforce, not when you're going straight.

MoDpCu.jpg


The old one had gotten pretty beaten up from a few off-track excursions. It also kept getting modified in different ways as I tried different ideas (canards, extending the sides out a little more). So last week I made a replacement -- this time with more splitter surface area and also with the splitter moved down about 5/8" closer to the track surface. It's not pretty, but it unbolts from the car for the drive home and stays out of sight until the next track day. The new setup is bigger than the old one, and also made of thicker aluminum stock -- but I was able to reduce its weight by 3/4 of a pound by using fewer pieces and removing a skid bar that used to protect the AC condenser.

Top) The old piece on the front -- back when it was new and looked all right
Then) Old sitting on new -- this shows the increase in splitter size, and also how beaten up the old pieces had gotten.
Below that) Almost finished
Bottom) Painted and ready to go.

Normally, the front end looks like this:

NtOye2.jpg
 
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