Plus, there are no sparks or spatter to clean up. Since I got mine, TIG has been the go-to welding method for these reasons.
-Derek
Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT The 12-Gauge Garage
- Thread starter Jack Olsen
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
Plus, there are no sparks or spatter to clean up. Since I got mine, TIG has been the go-to welding method for these reasons.
-Derek
Jaywalkers beware! Stern ankle justice is on the prowl!
Jack, I was thinking about this today before I saw your new air dam/splitter setup: your front A-arms. Could you make some Coroplast triangles to keep any under-car wind moving along smoothly? I didn't really invent this -- my 1989 Mercedes 300E has some plastic fairings on its rear lower A-arms. (It was the dawn of underbody aero for street cars.)
_
Jack, I was thinking about this today before I saw your new air dam/splitter setup: your front A-arms. Could you make some Coroplast triangles to keep any under-car wind moving along smoothly? I didn't really invent this -- my 1989 Mercedes 300E has some plastic fairings on its rear lower A-arms. (It was the dawn of underbody aero for street cars.)
_
OP
The new pieces cover the A-arms. It's very flat under there when they're on. What might not be easy to see in the pictures is that the new pieces are also wider, in terms of the vertical curtain (or whatever you'd call that). I used to have oncoming air (and the air diverted from the front) smashing right into the high-pressure zone at the lower leading edge of each spinning front tire. Now the air is guided around the tires. I hope it helps reduce high air pressure in that zone, but it also has to help with presenting something so chaotic and turbulent as frontal area.
But it brings to mind an aero issue I don't fully understand. Modern cars often have a 1"-or-so splitter coming down from the underbody ahead of each tire. I assume it's a kind of spoiler, and that it helps in reducing drag in that region. How it accomplishes this I don't know. They might be at an angle, deflecting air out from under the car? I've previously put pieces on my front aero assembly, but never noticed any difference. I don't think I've seen them on race car underbodies. But I don't know.
* * *
The other night I blew the place out with the leaf blower and packed up the car. There's nothing so nice as a warm June nigh and the calm and silence that comes before all of the speed and noise of a track day. I'll be out at Willow Springs again this weekend. The plan is to get my driving done before lunch, though. Later in the day it will be 105°.
But it brings to mind an aero issue I don't fully understand. Modern cars often have a 1"-or-so splitter coming down from the underbody ahead of each tire. I assume it's a kind of spoiler, and that it helps in reducing drag in that region. How it accomplishes this I don't know. They might be at an angle, deflecting air out from under the car? I've previously put pieces on my front aero assembly, but never noticed any difference. I don't think I've seen them on race car underbodies. But I don't know.
* * *
The other night I blew the place out with the leaf blower and packed up the car. There's nothing so nice as a warm June nigh and the calm and silence that comes before all of the speed and noise of a track day. I'll be out at Willow Springs again this weekend. The plan is to get my driving done before lunch, though. Later in the day it will be 105°.
stillp
Well-known member
Jack, My Focus has those, but I thought they were just to stop water splashing forward when you hit a puddle at speed!
Pete
I've seen those, too. My take on them is:
a) it's like a lower air dam, keeps more of the tire away from the incoming air, but it's further back, where the semi-aware/barely aware drivers aren't going to jam it into a concrete parking log or curb, as they have been since the 80's
2) and it guides the air under the car, which nowadays is a fairly smooth and controlled zone of smooth ariflow, which sure beats:
iii - the other side of the tire, which is an aero nightmare by comparison.
I'm gearing up (mentally and tool-wise) to build air dams for mpg on a 90's design SUV (one designed as if it would never leave a logging road or go over 30 mph) and a 2000's era Ford Econoline. The small factory air dam on the E-150 stops just short of the inside edges of the tires, and I'm not sure why. My guess is that the front face of a tire assaulting the wind is not a keen aero strategy, but they also are concerned about the tire being able to climb a curb in city use or a minor rock or tree in logging road use.
So I've been looking at a lot of late model SUV's and pickup trucks that have airdams geared towards better mpg, and I'm seeing that some still stop short ... and some go all the way to the edge to guide air to the outside of the tire.
Speaking of aero, I recently snagged a copy of this book:
Race Car Aerodynamics, by Joseph Katz
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X4OIV6/?tag=atomicindus08-20
And, well, it's got some good basics here and there but it really is focused on race cars. Not funky things designed by the firm's founder's stylist grandson 15 years before street cars even saw wind tunnels (ahem) or all of the other compromised things most of us are usually buidling aero crutches for.
And say, while you drive around with your motor from a 964, have, ponder what you can learn from a Porsche... 64.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Porsche_64
_
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Anakist
Member
I recently read a great article by an Australian online magazine called Autospeed about books to have. He is a great tinkerer with a passion for testing and publishing accurate results, even if they don't agree with his initial hypothesis.
Here is his list of 10 books. I mention it because he has a focus on aerodynamics for road cars and there are a couple of books he recommends for that purpose. He also has an article about testing and modifying under car aerodynamics (Part 1 and Part 2) and I am pretty sure he talks about wheel air dams in that article. Or it could be the one about making an custom undertray.
His articles are well worth a read, especially the ones about books he has found. I really like the way he thinks things through, comes up with a hypothesis, tests a few variables and presents all the evidence regardless of whether his hypothesis was correct, then shows what he ends up with and how well it works.
James
Here is his list of 10 books. I mention it because he has a focus on aerodynamics for road cars and there are a couple of books he recommends for that purpose. He also has an article about testing and modifying under car aerodynamics (Part 1 and Part 2) and I am pretty sure he talks about wheel air dams in that article. Or it could be the one about making an custom undertray.
His articles are well worth a read, especially the ones about books he has found. I really like the way he thinks things through, comes up with a hypothesis, tests a few variables and presents all the evidence regardless of whether his hypothesis was correct, then shows what he ends up with and how well it works.
James
Yeah, I've seen Hucho's aerodynamics book mentioned on ecomodder forums, but it sure isn't cheap!
(So I'm buying a bunch of other books that are quickly adding up to... the price of that book... mwaah mwaaah.)
I do like that book list, and I have a few of them. "Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems" mostly makes my head hurt. I wish there was a more modern and practical book along those lines, because we are living in a golden age of aftermarket exahusts, some of which may actually work.
(So I'm buying a bunch of other books that are quickly adding up to... the price of that book... mwaah mwaaah.)
I do like that book list, and I have a few of them. "Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems" mostly makes my head hurt. I wish there was a more modern and practical book along those lines, because we are living in a golden age of aftermarket exahusts, some of which may actually work.
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garageless4now
Member
Idk if any of y'all have see this, but I come across this on Facebook the other day. Though it was funny and wanted to share
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shortykorte
Well-known member
garageless4now, if you go back into the history of Jack's garage, he was once one of those other kinds of people! Well, his garage was.
Jack, us amateur aero barglers eagerly await the results of your recent track weekend. Lap times? F/R balance?
The picture ShortyKote just posted reminded me, great Zot! You have a passenger side mirror! Have you consdidered making a wee aerodynamic little stub out of PVC pipe and putting a rear view camera in it? And a little screen on the dash?
https://amzn.com/B005CFLMNC
At the speeds you're going, it can help. Less drag, and less frontal area, too.
Some ecomodders are putting convex mirrors on the dash close to the side window.
Of course, since this is a custom street/track car and you care about aesthetics (i.e., it's not a slope nose yet) you need to apply EOI (Extra Olsen Ingenuity) to make that aerodymamic camera stub swap in and out of the stock mirror location so you can have a normal looking mirror for normal street use.
Hmm... could just put the camera at the far edge of the right rear bumper/tailight area. (If I weren't a fanatic about weight aft-of-axle on such a car, I'd even recommend a small motor drive and a small porthole and.... okay, so I was watching Jame Bond movie last night.)
_
Jack, us amateur aero barglers eagerly await the results of your recent track weekend. Lap times? F/R balance?
The picture ShortyKote just posted reminded me, great Zot! You have a passenger side mirror! Have you consdidered making a wee aerodynamic little stub out of PVC pipe and putting a rear view camera in it? And a little screen on the dash?
https://amzn.com/B005CFLMNC
At the speeds you're going, it can help. Less drag, and less frontal area, too.
Some ecomodders are putting convex mirrors on the dash close to the side window.
Of course, since this is a custom street/track car and you care about aesthetics (i.e., it's not a slope nose yet) you need to apply EOI (Extra Olsen Ingenuity) to make that aerodymamic camera stub swap in and out of the stock mirror location so you can have a normal looking mirror for normal street use.
Hmm... could just put the camera at the far edge of the right rear bumper/tailight area. (If I weren't a fanatic about weight aft-of-axle on such a car, I'd even recommend a small motor drive and a small porthole and.... okay, so I was watching Jame Bond movie last night.)
_
stonesg
Well-known member
Idk if any of y'all have see this, but I come across this on Facebook the other day. Though it was funny and wanted to share
Thus the reason that when/IF (Don't want to tempt the fates) I get into my new garage next month, JOE (Jack Olsen Esthetic) is going to be my goal.
TG
OP
The Katz book is one of two that I go to a lot when I'm trying to find a new way to make my car stick better. The other one is by Simon McBeath and is called "Competition Car Aerodynamics."
The track day went well. I was only there for three runs, and it got up over 100° in that space of time. So, no records. But the new front end seems ideally placed -- I only get contact with the ground under very heavy braking, and at top speed. The top speed contact was the splitter bending down, which I am going to correct with one more cable support.
Why did I leave early? This video explains.
The mods I did to the rear uprights worked perfectly. I was getting bending at high speeds previously, even after switching to 3/16" aluminum. The new wing is VERY effective. It might be too effective, in fact -- with a higher drag penalty. I might make an intermediate-size one for testing in the fall.
* * *
That garage meme shows up on Facebook and other sites every so often, and it seems to hit a note with people. To me, it's a very old picture of what was the first iteration of my garage. I'd be happier if a newer picture were swapped in, but I don't control those things.
* * *
A pair of car projects this past weekend. One was changing the oil on my wife's Prius. No news there, except that I've found the kind of oil drain that I am finally happy with. Previously, I used a plastic container that I think originally held cat litter in it. The thing I want in a drain pan is some form of measurement marks so I know how much oil I took out when I'm refilling the car. This is especially important on my 911, since overfilling is a big pain in the neck. I calibrated the old cat litter container by making marks with a sharpie, but they always wore away after a few months. The important thing for me is capacity (the 911 takes 14 quarts of oil), and not a low profile -- since I've got the lift.
So this $6 solution does the job perfectly.
Second project? I lost a rear window regulator in my BMW. Pretty straightforward fix, I think. The replacement was $50 and gets here today.
I cut a stick to hold the window up and in place while I wait for the new parts.
The track day went well. I was only there for three runs, and it got up over 100° in that space of time. So, no records. But the new front end seems ideally placed -- I only get contact with the ground under very heavy braking, and at top speed. The top speed contact was the splitter bending down, which I am going to correct with one more cable support.
Why did I leave early? This video explains.
The mods I did to the rear uprights worked perfectly. I was getting bending at high speeds previously, even after switching to 3/16" aluminum. The new wing is VERY effective. It might be too effective, in fact -- with a higher drag penalty. I might make an intermediate-size one for testing in the fall.
* * *
That garage meme shows up on Facebook and other sites every so often, and it seems to hit a note with people. To me, it's a very old picture of what was the first iteration of my garage. I'd be happier if a newer picture were swapped in, but I don't control those things.
* * *
A pair of car projects this past weekend. One was changing the oil on my wife's Prius. No news there, except that I've found the kind of oil drain that I am finally happy with. Previously, I used a plastic container that I think originally held cat litter in it. The thing I want in a drain pan is some form of measurement marks so I know how much oil I took out when I'm refilling the car. This is especially important on my 911, since overfilling is a big pain in the neck. I calibrated the old cat litter container by making marks with a sharpie, but they always wore away after a few months. The important thing for me is capacity (the 911 takes 14 quarts of oil), and not a low profile -- since I've got the lift.
So this $6 solution does the job perfectly.
Second project? I lost a rear window regulator in my BMW. Pretty straightforward fix, I think. The replacement was $50 and gets here today.
I cut a stick to hold the window up and in place while I wait for the new parts.
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ZRX61
Well-known member
I notice that this garage is now starting to show up in memes on Facebook
You could fill that bucket in a very tidy fashion with a nice Fumoto valve. If you get the ****** style (N suffix), you can even run a section of tubing off of the valve and to your bucket.
http://www.fumotousa.com/
By sawing a scrap of wood and propping up that window, you have now exceeded the technical abilities of a great many BMW owners. (Just kidding. I hardly ever make BMW owner jokes, but so many people nowadays can't begin to fix a thing.)
I don't use my oil extractor much for oil changes (just one car) and this doesn't have the capacity for your 911:
https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/multi+fluid+extractor.do
But I have found the cylinder to be handy for measuring quantities. Each rib is a one liter. I've even poured a little drain pan into this thing just to measure what came out of a gearbox or transfer case. I've found many other uses for this gizmo other than oil changes, like power steering reservoir emptying, brake fluid reservoir, and brake bleeding. (Cold dfferential oil... not so much.)
_
http://www.fumotousa.com/
By sawing a scrap of wood and propping up that window, you have now exceeded the technical abilities of a great many BMW owners. (Just kidding. I hardly ever make BMW owner jokes, but so many people nowadays can't begin to fix a thing.)
I don't use my oil extractor much for oil changes (just one car) and this doesn't have the capacity for your 911:
https://www.griotsgarage.com/product/multi+fluid+extractor.do
But I have found the cylinder to be handy for measuring quantities. Each rib is a one liter. I've even poured a little drain pan into this thing just to measure what came out of a gearbox or transfer case. I've found many other uses for this gizmo other than oil changes, like power steering reservoir emptying, brake fluid reservoir, and brake bleeding. (Cold dfferential oil... not so much.)
_
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Jack, simply a wonderful day! I hope you are working on acquiring a featherweight piano keyboard for the passenger seat.
First Conversation: "If you practice on the way up (and back?), you can be my copilot."
Second Conversation: "Honey, we're going to Willow Springs for piano practice."
OP
Thanks, guys. It's been my wife doing the piano teaching. I don't understand that stuff at all -- so I'm very impressed by what he can do.
Squankum, I've thought about the valves, but I've got five oil plugs in the family, and I worry about adding anything that could potentially fail to the race car. (Plus, oil spills are easy to clean up with tile.)
* * *
On the new splitter, I had one notable (but minor) failure. I use wire rope as supports for the splitter. I don't mind some contact with the pavement, but two of the wire rope anchor points were getting contact, and one actually cut through the wire rope where I'd looped it through the splitter.
The vulnerability:
So I decided I needed an alternative way to anchor the cable -- something that could grind on the asphalt. I had some short round-cap bolts on hand. They didn't have flat or Phillips fittings, but I only need to screw them in once. My idea was to loop the cable through the threaded portion of the nut, with the head of the bolt taking the impact.
But I'd never drilled through threaded stock before. And I had to do it five times in a fairly consistent way. So I Googled it, and learned the trick of first drilling a nut, then clamping the nut to another nut on the threading, and using the holes in the nut as a guide. (Does that make sense?)
From above (although I'll still loop the cable and crimp it with a ferrule.)
And what it will look like from the asphalt:
Unless someone has an alternative way that would add less weight and drag?
Squankum, I've thought about the valves, but I've got five oil plugs in the family, and I worry about adding anything that could potentially fail to the race car. (Plus, oil spills are easy to clean up with tile.)
* * *
On the new splitter, I had one notable (but minor) failure. I use wire rope as supports for the splitter. I don't mind some contact with the pavement, but two of the wire rope anchor points were getting contact, and one actually cut through the wire rope where I'd looped it through the splitter.
The vulnerability:
So I decided I needed an alternative way to anchor the cable -- something that could grind on the asphalt. I had some short round-cap bolts on hand. They didn't have flat or Phillips fittings, but I only need to screw them in once. My idea was to loop the cable through the threaded portion of the nut, with the head of the bolt taking the impact.
But I'd never drilled through threaded stock before. And I had to do it five times in a fairly consistent way. So I Googled it, and learned the trick of first drilling a nut, then clamping the nut to another nut on the threading, and using the holes in the nut as a guide. (Does that make sense?)
From above (although I'll still loop the cable and crimp it with a ferrule.)
And what it will look like from the asphalt:
Unless someone has an alternative way that would add less weight and drag?
stonesg
Well-known member
Jack,
Thanks for including the reason for your quick return from the track. It was a bright spot in a miserable day.
As for your splitter..... I wish I had time to research details on what to use, but how about some high speed adhesive (Ha.... see what I did there...?)
I figure you could make an attach point out of some aluminum or even better (for your weight OCD), titanium. That way there would not be any hardware protruding from the bottom.
TG
Thanks for including the reason for your quick return from the track. It was a bright spot in a miserable day.
As for your splitter..... I wish I had time to research details on what to use, but how about some high speed adhesive (Ha.... see what I did there...?)
I figure you could make an attach point out of some aluminum or even better (for your weight OCD), titanium. That way there would not be any hardware protruding from the bottom.
TG
Sacrifical metal! Just what I was thinking!
A buddy of mine had a low center-of-gravity trailer for his race car. If it got a flat tire (and thanks to alignment problems on that axle, it did sometimes) it would drag leaf spring shackles on the asphalt and the challenge was to pull over to the side of the interstate before it ground all the way through. (The noise and sparks in your rear view mirrors were your warning indicator of flat tire.) It was my idea to add a sacrificial lump of steel in that area of the axle.
Now, a complicated way of doing it would be to tap into a brake line, add a wheel cylinder, a series of linkages and heim joints....
_
A buddy of mine had a low center-of-gravity trailer for his race car. If it got a flat tire (and thanks to alignment problems on that axle, it did sometimes) it would drag leaf spring shackles on the asphalt and the challenge was to pull over to the side of the interstate before it ground all the way through. (The noise and sparks in your rear view mirrors were your warning indicator of flat tire.) It was my idea to add a sacrificial lump of steel in that area of the axle.
Now, a complicated way of doing it would be to tap into a brake line, add a wheel cylinder, a series of linkages and heim joints....
_
BiTurbo228
Well-known member
Hmmm, I think steel is probably the right choice for materials on the splitter fasteners. If you had issues with grinding them on the tarmac then aluminium would have a rather short service life...
I wonder which side of the fence I fall on...
Fairly certain it's the 'pile of cardboard boxes' side :S
https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s---MHiysq2--/c_scale,fl_progressive,q_80,w_800/gscpuahrp1byfnevf7jt.jpg
NB: edited the embedded photo to a link as it felt very wrong to post a picture of my horribly cluttered garage on this thread :S would probably have given people aneurisms!
I wonder which side of the fence I fall on...
Fairly certain it's the 'pile of cardboard boxes' side :S
https://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s---MHiysq2--/c_scale,fl_progressive,q_80,w_800/gscpuahrp1byfnevf7jt.jpg
NB: edited the embedded photo to a link as it felt very wrong to post a picture of my horribly cluttered garage on this thread :S would probably have given people aneurisms!
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stonesg
Well-known member
Thus why I suggested whatever bracket used be attached to the upper surface of the splitter with some type of adhesive.
I don't know what Jack's splitter is made of or coated with but I'm sure something could be found that would bind the bracket to the splitter on the top side.
I'm thinking lighter for Jack's weight OCD. whatever it is, one could even contour it to make it aero. At least enough to make you feel good about it.
Heck... I could even be shaped like a little vortex generator if something like that would help the air around the strut wire.... but then there's another whole area for discussion.
TG
OopsClunkThud
Active member
you could dimple the metal for a countersink, use a countersink nut from below and a nylon countersink washer on top. that would eliminate any protrusion on the bottom.
crazy idea: drill the center of the screw and solder the cable into it.
crazy idea: drill the center of the screw and solder the cable into it.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
I'm liking the countersunk screw from on the bottom, but make the "nut" from some aluminum rod, drilled and taped for the screw, also counter sunk to tale the rising dimple of the sheet-metal panel, then cross drilled for the cable to string through.
They make a loop for this that looks like a nut with a piece of chain link on top as well. a
U" shape; but those are all steel...
The on on the top middle isn't exactly what I'm talking about, but you get the idea:
They make a loop for this that looks like a nut with a piece of chain link on top as well. a
U" shape; but those are all steel...
The on on the top middle isn't exactly what I'm talking about, but you get the idea:
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OP
The more I think about it, the (abrasion and impact-taking) steel head of the screw/bolt is fine. But I don't need the threading or the nut on the upper side, really. There is no upward force for the assembly to deal with, only downward. (All I need is a hook and a line that pulls up on the splitter, basically.) I could shorten the bolt and use a soldered anchor on the cable (like a bicycle brake or gear-changing cable), or whatever creates the lowest amount of weight and aerodynamic drag up there above the splitter -- where there's a high pressure zone and a lot of lateral movement as air wraps around the front bumper. But I can't see much that the nylon nut is getting me, outside of preventing the head of the bolt/screw from dropping down if tension on the cable goes slack.
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BiTurbo228
Well-known member
Phew! After a month and a bit of reading this thread from both ends I'm finished! Now I've got to wait for more to read
Just want to say that I'm incredibly impressed by all that you've achieved Jack, and you deserve every accolade you've been awarded
Did you put any more thought into your teardrop trailer idea? If you were looking for a bit more interior space while still keeping it thoroughly aerodynamic you could go for a Kamm tail profile, as modeled by this lovely TZ1...
It'd give you a bit more interior volume while still keeping an aerodynamic profile.
I beg to differ, but it's rather difficult...
http://i.imgur.com/FgczT8d.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yXzPw8e.jpg
Not sure it's to everyone's taste, but it struck a chord with me
Digging up an old post, but I'm glad to see that someone's upholding the finest of Scimitar traditions. It's part of British law that if one is mentioned, Princess Anne has to mentioned at the same time or your tea supply will be cut off for a year.
Just want to say that I'm incredibly impressed by all that you've achieved Jack, and you deserve every accolade you've been awarded
Did you put any more thought into your teardrop trailer idea? If you were looking for a bit more interior space while still keeping it thoroughly aerodynamic you could go for a Kamm tail profile, as modeled by this lovely TZ1...
It'd give you a bit more interior volume while still keeping an aerodynamic profile.
I beg to differ, but it's rather difficult...
http://i.imgur.com/FgczT8d.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/yXzPw8e.jpg
Not sure it's to everyone's taste, but it struck a chord with me
Digging up an old post, but I'm glad to see that someone's upholding the finest of Scimitar traditions. It's part of British law that if one is mentioned, Princess Anne has to mentioned at the same time or your tea supply will be cut off for a year.
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BadDriver_GoodCar
Active member
Especially jealous the in-ground lift. But car jacks disappear kind of quick, too, so... need a cheap way to build those kinds of tables but make them sturdy lol
toybreaker
Member
I'm sure you'll think I'm crazy but when I first saw this post my initial thought was "interesting but not sure I like it". Then I came back a few times and kept looking through what you have done. I am now in awe. So impressive how you have taken a not very big space, stuffed in everything you need, hidden so many things away, and have a space for every thing. Hats off to you!!. I will be borrowing many of your ideas. I do a lot of work on motorcycles and I will now be build two bike jacks into the floor with removable wheel chocks. Thanks for the inspiration.
OP
Thanks, guys. It's an incredibly long thread, now -- with a lot of digressions and dead ends. Worse still, it's got a lot of missing images at this point because of a mistake I made with my imageshack account(s). Thanks for taking the time to wade through it all.
BiTurbo228, I've still got the teardrop idea going on a back burner. The problem is that I think I'd end up building two of them -- one to learn my lessons on and one where I get it right. That's a pretty big time commitment. So I'm trying to keep gathering data in the hopes of getting it 'nailed down straight' on the first try. But with non-traditional materials and non-traditional adhesives, that'll be a trick.
And toybreaker, I'm not surprised at all that you initially found the shop 'fine but not ideal.' I'm surprised more people don't take issue with it, since it's so particular in the way it's been worked out, and not deliberately broad in its appeal (no T8 lights, gray-paint-red-stripe-then-white color scheme -- and more like a machine shop than an automotive shop, but without the full set of machine shop tools). As I suspect I've said before, it's the right shop for my two-car space, but not something I'd recommend for anyone else.
Still, it hits a button for many guys. Maybe it's that odd color choice?
* * *
On the front splitter project, I ordered some short (1/2") clevis pins and bored a hole in the splitter just tight enough for them to fit through, but with enough of a friction hold so that they wouldn't move in the hole. I think this will be the lightest possible solution. The pins are zinc-coated steel, so they're stronger than the aluminum around them. They should last awhile before they get ground off, and I'm going to add one more cable to reduce the flex I'm getting even more.
BiTurbo228, I've still got the teardrop idea going on a back burner. The problem is that I think I'd end up building two of them -- one to learn my lessons on and one where I get it right. That's a pretty big time commitment. So I'm trying to keep gathering data in the hopes of getting it 'nailed down straight' on the first try. But with non-traditional materials and non-traditional adhesives, that'll be a trick.
And toybreaker, I'm not surprised at all that you initially found the shop 'fine but not ideal.' I'm surprised more people don't take issue with it, since it's so particular in the way it's been worked out, and not deliberately broad in its appeal (no T8 lights, gray-paint-red-stripe-then-white color scheme -- and more like a machine shop than an automotive shop, but without the full set of machine shop tools). As I suspect I've said before, it's the right shop for my two-car space, but not something I'd recommend for anyone else.
Still, it hits a button for many guys. Maybe it's that odd color choice?
* * *
On the front splitter project, I ordered some short (1/2") clevis pins and bored a hole in the splitter just tight enough for them to fit through, but with enough of a friction hold so that they wouldn't move in the hole. I think this will be the lightest possible solution. The pins are zinc-coated steel, so they're stronger than the aluminum around them. They should last awhile before they get ground off, and I'm going to add one more cable to reduce the flex I'm getting even more.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Jack, I think the reason your garage resonates with so many is that it has something for everybody, as its not just the complete project (not that it's ever quite completed...), It's all the individual pieces of that project, and how well each works either with or around the other.
You worked within a limited envelope, and made it work for you. You add (or delete) things, and you put thought into it for your application, and discuss the pros and cons, and all that shows in the finished product.
While few would do it exactly as you have, everyone can benefit from the thought process, and seeing where you started and where you finished.
Steevo's "HF toolbox workbench" thread has similarities. The planning, the thought process, and the finished product.
It works...
All the kudos you have received are well earned!
You worked within a limited envelope, and made it work for you. You add (or delete) things, and you put thought into it for your application, and discuss the pros and cons, and all that shows in the finished product.
While few would do it exactly as you have, everyone can benefit from the thought process, and seeing where you started and where you finished.
Steevo's "HF toolbox workbench" thread has similarities. The planning, the thought process, and the finished product.
It works...
All the kudos you have received are well earned!
JeremyBurke
Well-known member
I would like to echo Outlaw's words and add one item. Attainability, your budget wasn't a million dollars. Last I heard you were still under 6 grand for the whole project. You got the dream garage with hard work, good planning, and thrift. We common folk like thrift. Oh and your car is dead ****. So that doesn't hurt.
stonesg
Well-known member
I think one of the things that makes Jack's place work is that it is a careful blend of special purpose (Jack's Racing Car), general purpose work areas and a visual style.
It's not a wood shop but serves, it's not a machine shop but serves, it's not a welding shop but serves and it serves servicing the car well. I point out that the lift would not be optimal for many other types of vehicles/services but is still usable for other things.
The biggest thing I've taken from Jack's place aside from neat space utilization tips is that harmony of design makes for a cleaner more functional look, feel and operation.
If I ever get my garage, I've already decided that lateral files will be part of the storage solution and that they will be painted to match the tool boxes. This will be the visual harmony and covered/protected storage.
It'll be a much nicer place to work than the open messy unprotected shelves I've used in the past.
TG
It's not a wood shop but serves, it's not a machine shop but serves, it's not a welding shop but serves and it serves servicing the car well. I point out that the lift would not be optimal for many other types of vehicles/services but is still usable for other things.
The biggest thing I've taken from Jack's place aside from neat space utilization tips is that harmony of design makes for a cleaner more functional look, feel and operation.
If I ever get my garage, I've already decided that lateral files will be part of the storage solution and that they will be painted to match the tool boxes. This will be the visual harmony and covered/protected storage.
It'll be a much nicer place to work than the open messy unprotected shelves I've used in the past.
TG
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Jack,
Everything said above about your garage and for me yes, it was the color choices that first caught my eye in relation to the whole layout. Totally different but fits to an industrial theme. Second was the general layout of a dedicated car/lift side and a task/work side. It all has purpose and is yet flexible. And the work table in front of the overhead door. Almost nobody does that with their 2-car garage. I totally copied that (less elegant version I admit) and I love working at that bench now facing out to the fresh air instead of the far back corner of my garage. You have a good eye for layout and color and your success shows that. Thanks for continued inspiration.
Everything said above about your garage and for me yes, it was the color choices that first caught my eye in relation to the whole layout. Totally different but fits to an industrial theme. Second was the general layout of a dedicated car/lift side and a task/work side. It all has purpose and is yet flexible. And the work table in front of the overhead door. Almost nobody does that with their 2-car garage. I totally copied that (less elegant version I admit) and I love working at that bench now facing out to the fresh air instead of the far back corner of my garage. You have a good eye for layout and color and your success shows that. Thanks for continued inspiration.
OP
Thanks! I don't mean to fish for a compliment -- but I appreciate the kind words.
* * *
New project in the garage. My family has been going to a different pancake restaurant in Los Angeles this past month or so as part of a 'Summer of Pancakes.' My wife thought it would be cute to have t-shirts, so tonight, I took a crack at learning how to print with silkscreen.
I started out with using my vinyl cutter to cut out the basic design.
Here it is attached to the screen.
The green matches the garage.
Except my 4-year-old daughter, who wanted hers to have pink ink.
In production. I had to move quickly, so I don't have any in-process pictures.
As it turns out, I need the right kind of squeegee to get enough ink down. If I'd waited another couple of days, I would have had it. But the low-ink volume makes it look kind of 'vintage.' And all told, it's a pretty inexpensive and fast way to make some shirts.
* * *
New project in the garage. My family has been going to a different pancake restaurant in Los Angeles this past month or so as part of a 'Summer of Pancakes.' My wife thought it would be cute to have t-shirts, so tonight, I took a crack at learning how to print with silkscreen.
I started out with using my vinyl cutter to cut out the basic design.
Here it is attached to the screen.
The green matches the garage.
Except my 4-year-old daughter, who wanted hers to have pink ink.
In production. I had to move quickly, so I don't have any in-process pictures.
As it turns out, I need the right kind of squeegee to get enough ink down. If I'd waited another couple of days, I would have had it. But the low-ink volume makes it look kind of 'vintage.' And all told, it's a pretty inexpensive and fast way to make some shirts.
jask
Well-known member
vinyl cutter!!? whaaaat? I must have missed that... link please
ranger101ran
Well-known member
What a cool idea.Good way to make memorys for your family
Boosted1
Well-known member
Cool idea on the t shirts
OP
Thanks!
The cutter is a Silhouette Cameo. It's like an inkjet printer, but it uses a little needle to cut whatever you send to it from your computer. So, you can cut vinyl decals to use on your racecar, or use the vinyl as a stencil for painting art caddies for the school auction, or use it for a stencil with a silkscreen, like I did, because your family eats a lot of pancakes. The cutter cost me a little over $200, which is a lot. But it's a tool, and over time it's allowed me to do a lot of things I wouldn't have been able to do otherwise.
I did these using vinyl as a stencil, and then filled it in with paint:
This is a simple decal:
The cutter is a Silhouette Cameo. It's like an inkjet printer, but it uses a little needle to cut whatever you send to it from your computer. So, you can cut vinyl decals to use on your racecar, or use the vinyl as a stencil for painting art caddies for the school auction, or use it for a stencil with a silkscreen, like I did, because your family eats a lot of pancakes. The cutter cost me a little over $200, which is a lot. But it's a tool, and over time it's allowed me to do a lot of things I wouldn't have been able to do otherwise.
I did these using vinyl as a stencil, and then filled it in with paint:
This is a simple decal:
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1949 caddyman
Well-known member
Is the vinyl on a roll or a sheet? Does the neede punch or cut, scratch the vinyl?
OP
The vinyl comes on a roll, but you adhere it to a holding pad when it's being cut. I've used contact paper on some occasions, since it's so cheap. The needle gets dragged across it, at a specific depth. Not sure if the needle moves in any way while it's doing this. But when it's done, you weed out the pieces of vinyl that aren't part of the finished decal. It's pretty straightforward.
oldironfarmer
Well-known member
Been lurking on your thread, and can't hold back. Your garage is not for me, but yet it is mesmerizing on several levels. But what got me out in the light was the screen printing. Been wanting to do that for many years, your vinyl cutter solves a lot of issues. Great family activity, pancake restaurants with custom family pancake eating shirts. (or if the shirts don't eat pancakes at least they do hold them for a while)
Generally, when I hear young people over use a certain word, I like to say "Do you regularly engage in the excessive use of unnecessary superlatives?", to which the answer is "Aww, some".
That being said, AWSOME.
Generally, when I hear young people over use a certain word, I like to say "Do you regularly engage in the excessive use of unnecessary superlatives?", to which the answer is "Aww, some".
That being said, AWSOME.