dkmc
Well-known member
Your media looks like glass beads? If you're over 70-80 psi with glass beads they will turn to dust pretty quickly100 psi.
Your media looks like glass beads? If you're over 70-80 psi with glass beads they will turn to dust pretty quickly100 psi.
I didn't know that, I'll turn it down, Thank you.Your media looks like glass beads? If you're over 70-80 psi with glass beads they will turn to dust pretty quickly
You could try the window screen trick. Install a window screen with frame inside with standoffs that hold it 3/4 to 1" away from the inside of the glass. Greatly reduces frosting of the protectors.I ordered some glass protectors from IDS Blast, at some point I'll replace the glass.
Be sure they're long enough but those prices seem very fair.I just picked up a 42 x 24 Trinco cabinet and I need a glove, I asked them how much and this was the response. Seems pretty reasonable and it has nice gloves in it
The standard rubber gloves are only sold in a pair, but we do offer a neoprene glove. One won't be better than the other, it's just a preference!
2-00047 6X24 Rubber Gloves $23/pair
2-00048 6X24 Noeprene $23/pair (lined)
2-00140 6x24 left hand neoprene $12 each
You need airflow thru the cabinet to evacuate the dust and dirt. A sheet metal cover attached with 1 screw that can be pivoted over that hole to adjust air intake would help you fine tune the process. Blowing up the gloves sounds like you need more air flow. It also seems like just allowing full flow thru the open hole will do no harm.Hey fellas.
I finally got my blast cabinet online. Its working great with some coal slag i inherited with the compressor and cabinet. Happy with the air supply of compressor, i was concerned about that. Im hoping yall can guide me and make sure im in the right direction.
I have my skat blast dust extractor hooked up to the outlet side by the electrical j box (pic 1). In pic 2, the previous owner just had a rag stuffed into what i presume the air intake side is. I left it there and everything worked ok.
I have a ton of vacuum like this. My Gloves baloon up, side door has big suction with the dust extractor on and i cant open it unlatched.
Should this air intake be left open without the rag? Add a “soffet vent” where the rag is?
Anyways having fun and learning on its first use. Compressor cycled on twice maybe while blasting that c clamp. Compressor measured out to 21+ CFM when i timed it. Im running 90 PSI. the trigger gun really *****. I see why everyone uses a foot pedal. Especially with the vacuum blowing up my gloves. Maneuvering the gun is tough.
Inputs appreciated!!!
Sounds like you have multiple issues going on. When gloves inflate it indicates high vacuum in the cabinet. There needs to be enough square inches of inlet area for air flow thru the cabinet. Maybe you don't need 2 "reclaimers" and just 1 would be enough? Dust blowing into the shop means filters are not working. Maybe post some pics of the setup?Ok im gonna post here since my thread didnt get any traction. Looking for some help. I have an allsource 42000 cabinet, its a pressure cabinet. I am using glass beads in it. The blasting part works incredibly well, its the dust collection part im having issues with. The unit has 2 reclaimers on it(like the harbor freight ones). is whats happening is basically every bit of dust(and media) it pulls out of the cabinet gets blown into my shop. I cant work like this and its pointless to try. I was reading the above post and like his my gloves blow up and you cant open the door on the cabinet when the collectors are on. I have ordered a TIP tools vac-55 HEPA for the cabinet, the ones that are on it are great of keeping the cabinet visible but do nothing to contain dust. is something wrong with these reclaimers/collectors?
theres one on each side. it came this way from allsource. I have not modified anything. I cleaned the filters throughly when I got it, so not sure why its still blowing all the dust into the shop. I did buy it used.Sounds like you have multiple issues going on. When gloves inflate it indicates high vacuum in the cabinet. There needs to be enough square inches of inlet area for air flow thru the cabinet. Maybe you don't need 2 "reclaimers" and just 1 would be enough? Dust blowing into the shop means filters are not working. Maybe post some pics of the setup?
Ill quote myself here, I removed both the dust collectors that came with the cabinet(extremely loud/annoying anyways), and replaced the 2 with 1 dust collector from TP tools(vac-55 is the model I got), its super quiet, and works great! I can actually hear my radio while I work now. I blasted for almost 3 hours the other night and no dust in my shop. I am happy with the decision to buy it.theres one on each side. it came this way from allsource. I have not modified anything. I cleaned the filters throughly when I got it, so not sure why its still blowing all the dust into the shop. I did buy it used.




That's a biggin. Nice find.I picked up another pressure pot cabinet. It's an Abrasive Blast Systems brand unit, 48 x 48 x 36 high.
PO couldn't get it to work right, ended up drilling out the orifice plate in the bottom of the pot from 1/8" to 1/2 inch and
now it just shoots a steady stream of abrasive out of the nozzle. Pulse valves to clean collector bags not operational so the bags are
probably fully clogged at this point as well. Needs tinkering and a tune up, should be OK.
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thank you for that !! ill give that a go next!!I bent a sheet metal box with one open end that I siliconed over the outlet. I then cut and fit a piece of this fibrous filter material and slid it in the box. It seems to slow the larger particles down enough that they don't just get sucked out of the cabinet.


Shouldn't be. They install it in the air supply line before the T in the bottom of the pot. With that kind of increaseIs it a wear part?
Can be all over the map from $150 to 2500Saw this on Cl, fiter is ATD, not sure if the cabinet is? I don't need it but waiting to hear the asking price.
Rules of the universe: The better the deal, the longer the distance.Seller wants it gone, said $1 and get it out of his space. It's in my home state of Texas but still an 8 hour drive each way.
I don't have to read post #987 to tell you I would say 350-500 CFM (100-150 horsepower) is about right, diminishing returns below that. But reality wise, to spend 20-30 minutes to clean a hand plane, you could probably do it with 3 real horsepower (real as opposed to the over-rating of most of the retail compressors these days). I'm going to bet to take that long to do that small of an area, you will tire of the slow performance quickly. You can use a Q tip to paint your house if you want. To feel like you're actually making some sort of progress on small parts, 5hp (20 CFM) is probably the bottom end compressor wise.I'm not seriously shopping for equipment right now, but I am wondering, what is the minimum viable compressor to do any sand blasting? Not ideally, not quickly but the ragged edge of tolerable, perhaps a medium size hand plane body from rusty to clean in 20-30 minutes?
The biggest jump in capability is from nothing to something and sometimes that's enough to make the difference. I have a pancake and maybe used the brad nailer half a decade ago since I'm not doing remodels anymore, I don't really use air tools so it's hard sell to buy a gigantic compressor. If I could get into the capability to clean my junk $2 tools and whatever else for $500-$700 instead of $1500 it's easier to preform the mental gymnastics to justify it. I'm not actively looking at doing anything soon so I might develop the need in the next year for more capability, but I'm just curious as to what the floor is cost wise for my realistically limited use case.But reality wise, to spend 20-30 minutes to clean a hand plane, you could probably do it with 3 real horsepower (real as opposed to the over-rating of most of the retail compressors these days). I'm going to bet to take that long to do that small of an area, you will tire of the slow performance quickly. You can use a Q tip to paint your house if you want.
I have a lot of time (for someone that does this as a hobby) in front of siphon glass bead cabinets.I'm not seriously shopping for equipment right now, but I am wondering, what is the minimum viable compressor to do any sand blasting? Not ideally, not quickly but the ragged edge of tolerable, perhaps a medium size hand plane body from rusty to clean in 20-30 minutes?
A compressor's flow capacity has nothing to do with the pressure available to "force the media out".I have a lot of time (for someone that does this as a hobby) in front of siphon glass bead cabinets.
I have done a lot with 5hp motors and good compressors such as Kellog, Curtis, and Quincy QR 325. When blasting your compressor will run most all the time.
I run a Quincy air dryer that handle’s around 40cfm and filters.
I can usually blast as long as I want to with this setup.
My nozzle in my cabinet is about 3/16 inch.
One of my older set ups had a 175 cfm diesel and a large air dryer. It was nice but not worth it for what I did. If I did this every day that would be the way to go.
60 to 80 gallon tanks are fine.
This being said I could not imagine blasting off a 10cfm compressor as I don’t think you would have enough pressure to force the media out.
Curious what they are asking? What engine is that? It's a beast. I had an IR 600 years ago, Detroit 6-71I listed this Gardner Denver for the owner in NM.
Wow.......sticker shock!![]()
Gardner Denver 365 CFM Diesel Air Compressor - tools - by owner - sale
Gardner Denver 365 CFM Diesel Air Compressor. Not running Caterpillar Pony GAS start Engine & Caterpillar Diesel engine Steel wheels Guessing 1950's???? $5000 CASHalbuquerque.craigslist.org
Land is being sold, it needs to go, OBO.Wow.......sticker shock!
Good Point.A compressor's flow capacity has nothing to do with the pressure available to "force the media out".
I think I kind of, sort of, understand what you're getting at, but I think most people here reading about blasting understand the basic principles involved, including the concept of a pressure regulator. When you and everyone else here talks about a compressor not being able to "keep up" with a blaster, they mean that the compressor cannot compress air into the tank fast enough to maintain the regulated pressure at which the gun is being operated.
I assume anyone desiring to blast understands that the gun will perform optimally at the desired (regulated) pressure, and suboptimally at any pressure below that. What you said is that you can't imagine a 10cfm compressor having enough pressure to effectively blast, which is incorrect and the source of a lot discouragement regarding blasting on GJ. A 10 cfm compressor will blast just as well as a 20 or 30 cfm compressor as long as the gun is operating at the desired regulate input pressure. The only thing that changes is how long one can blast before they fall off the reg. The OP understands they will not be able to blast constantly, and they know it will be slower, but they're also not trying to blast a vehicle frame, they're trying to blast a hand plane, which is a very reasonable and achievable goal for a suboptimal compressor.