To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The "Area 51" Garage

Kriilin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
69
Seeing as it's the middle of winter, I finally got around to posting some pictures of my garage build. I still have to finish the interior once spring comes.

Let's start off with the foundation prep:

Garage_Concrete0002.JPG


Here's the insulation and rebar, and the concrete guys installing the rebar spacers. After thinking long and hard, I decided not to put radiant heat in. I don't do enough "on the ground" work to justify the extra expense, plus I'll be drilling holes in the concrete for an interior wall, and didn't want to risk hitting a pipe. I will be heating it though, hence the insulation. It's also supposed to provide some protection from the ground shifting, not sure how much though.

Garage_Concrete0028.JPG



The concrete pumper:

Garage_Concrete0027.JPG


Concrete working action:

Garage_Concrete0031.JPG


The forms off, 3 days old, keepin' it wet...

Garage_Concrete0040.JPG


Prepping the approach:

Garage_Concrete0042.JPG


And poured:

Garage_Concrete0045.JPG


Believe it or not, that's the complete shell for a 20' by 30' garage, off the semi and in my front yard. Now the real work starts..

Garage_Shell0001.JPG


Here's the base plate connectors bolted to foundation, and the first two ribs up. The base plates took a total of 62-7" Red Head bolts bought from http://www.fastenermart.com/ great guys to deal with :thumbup:

Garage_Shell0006.JPG


Proceeding along. Oh, forgot to mention the building is a 20'x30' "A Style" Galvalume steel building from www.futuresteel.com. The thin metal strip along the side has holes drilled every 24", it's used to keep the ribs aligned during construction. They are removed after the building is built.

Garage_Shell0008.JPG


The preferred construction method is to assemble each rib on the ground, and hoist it into place. I didn't have enough people to do that, the neighbors helped with the first two ribs. After that I was on my own. I assembled the bottom and first curve piece together, bolt into place, then put up the peak piece, "cheating" by using the top guide angle, then putting up the two flat roof pieces. The trick is to ensure you have the right overlaps, and with any steel building, you assemble loose first, with bolts in every 3rd hole. After all the ribs are up, put in the remaining bolts, and tighten, round and round working up. I had the missus help with that part, about 2700(!) bolts total:

Garage_Shell0009.JPG


Here's a shot oof the finished shell from the house. It's kinda crappy, I'll see If I can find a better one later...

IMAGE.jpg


Starting the framing of the garage door:

DSCF3846.JPG


Here's a shot of the tie-in between the wood and steel parts of the building. It's just standard slotted angle iron. The bolt holes into the ribs have to be field-drilled, the first one was a little unnerving. I took my time, and used a punch to make an indent, and drilled a small pilot hole first, no extra holes :bounce:

DSCF3845.JPG


Foundation tie-in. I have sill plate gasket under the plate, as well as the galvalume base plates. I debated using pressure treated wood, but wasn't sure if it would corrode the bolts. It's up high and faces south, so I'm not too worried about rot.

DSCF3847.JPG


The front framing almost finished, still have one stud in the center.

DSCF3852.JPG
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

1jjpop

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
481
Location
Central Iowa
Been around concrete all my working days . You really done everthing right.Forming ,rerod, pouring & curing. It will last a lifetime.VERY GOOD WORK.....
 
OP
K

Kriilin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
69
Been around concrete all my working days . You really done everthing right.Forming ,rerod, pouring & curing. It will last a lifetime.VERY GOOD WORK.....

Thanks, but I can't take the credit. I knew I was in over my head on the concrete, so I hired a guy who's been in business for 30 years. Everything else, including the garage door, was mostly me, the missus helped with the nuts, like a good wife does :D.
 
OP
K

Kriilin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
69
After debating between running another meter, or trenching from the house, I chose the latter. I replaced my meter box with a dual lug, with #2 Teck going to the garage with a separate 100 amp panel. The conduit is for low-voltage wiring:

DSCF3932.JPG


DSCF3923.JPG


DSCF3926.JPG


After lots of thought, I came up with this system of coupling nuts, bolts and lathing to provide a means of insulation, and attach points for lights, electrical, etc. As with the anchor bolts, I got the fasteners at www.fastenermart.com , thanks Dennis!

DSCF3909.JPG


DSCF3906.JPG


Here's where I am currently. Frost accumulation has halted the work now until spring:

DSCF3977.JPG


The curved walls of the garage were a bit of a challenge to install a jackshaft opener, but a couple of sprockets fixed that. I'll install a chain guard later:

DSCF3978.JPG
 

rlwhitetr3b

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
683
Location
East Central Illinois
I'm very interested in you electrical service connection. I'm guessing that the red and smaller black wires are being run to the garage and the 100 Amp breaker box.

Do you need a grounding rod at each building?
 

Attachments

  • dual_lug_meter_base.jpg
    dual_lug_meter_base.jpg
    63.8 KB · Views: 49
Last edited:
OP
K

Kriilin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
69
I'm very interested in you electrical service connection. I'm guessing that the red and smaller black wires are being run to the garage and the 100 Amp breaker box.

Do you need a grounding rod at each building?

Correct, the red and black wires are hots, and the blue is neutral. There's also a bare copper ground. I didn't need a ground rod as I have the required two grounding points through the house, as per my local code. The two bottom heavy black wires feed the 200 amp service in the house. The utility checked the grounds at the meter when they did the second inspection.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ngk22r

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2010
Messages
1,589
Location
AZ
I like this garage build, very nice job so far! Cant wait to see more pics! Subscribed!
 

Quint

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
244
Location
Youngstown, OH
I was curious how you were going to insulate that. Looks like a lot of work, but I'm sure it will be well worth it.

Also like the nifty pillow block setup on the door opener.
 

02hawk

Active member
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
27
Location
Edmonton Canada
Permitting must be easier to get in your town, quonsets can only be built for agriculture, no steel building for a home garage
 

cdseven95

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 15, 2009
Messages
1,561
Not to be rude but can I get a rough breakdown of cost... Very interested in doing something like this... My neighbors would hate me though


Another thing.... Maybe I'm just not experienced in this but would insulation only 50% of it not be effective at all...
 
OP
K

Kriilin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
69
Not to be rude but can I get a rough breakdown of cost... Very interested in doing something like this... My neighbors would hate me though


Another thing.... Maybe I'm just not experienced in this but would insulation only 50% of it not be effective at all...

I bought the steel part (20 x 30 - including base plates) for about $10K. And if I understand you right on the insulation, I'm actually not done yet. After the fiberglass, I'm gluing 16" by 1" and 1.5" (ceiling) rigid foam between the lathing, then finishing with Prodex, which gives me the vapor barrier. I just had to stop for the winter.

I was wondering if the neighbors would hate me too, but I was pleasantly surprised by the number of people who like it. I met most of the neighborhood this summer! I was working in the backyard out of sight of the back lane, two kids walked by, the first kid says "That looks like a barn" The second kid says "Yeah, but a really cool barn!" Made my day :thumbup:
 
Last edited:

LK44E

Active member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
44
Location
Utah
My small input on the insulation. What I have seen done with these type of buildings was using spray insulation, both on the outside and the inside. Gives the outside a flatter surface and the insides fills the gaps that was missed. Just my small input.
 
OP
K

Kriilin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2009
Messages
69
Well, I'm back working on the garage. Here's the start of the 2nd insulation layer. There will be another layer of foam, plus Prodex:

DSCF3986.JPG


Here's some framing for the workshop/loft area. The workshop is about 8 by 18. The large opening is for double 28" doors, so I can wheel my table saw into the car area for breaking down full 4 by 8's. It could also be useful for wrenching on a motorcycle/ATV/sled:

DSCF3998.JPG


To ease access to the loft (seasonal storage, sleeping quarters when I've eaten too many beans!) I put in an attic ladder:

DSCF4002.JPG


View from the loft:

DSCF4006.JPG


Stay tuned...
 

bauschracing

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Springville Alabama
I helped my racing partner build a similar building last year. It was a 24X48 and he built both ends out of wood instead of buying the metal ends. Instead of buying the formed base, he bought black iron and had it cut and bent up on 2 sides. There are a lot of bolts. We bolted the 2 ft. sections together then raised them into place. When they say that you and a few friends and a weekend to build the thing is not correct. We took about 10 weekends but it was summer in Georgia and we could only work from 7:00 to noon.
Mike
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom