A lot of good advice so far. The most useful being that you need to be sure to get the wood framing of the building a minimum of 6 inches up off your finished grade. Thats not to difficult to accomplish on the 3 blind walls by either making the finished height of your slab to the correct elevation or by adding a course of block to set the wall on. The detail you need to remember is to have the ability to make the floor match up near to your grade and have the wall framing up out of the dirt where the door opening is. The easiest way to achieve the desired result is to pour your walls to a point of 6-8 inches above finished grade, and pour your slab inside of the walls. This will allow you to have the pour drop down in the door area and be high enough to keep the framing where you need it. Also, it is imperative that your frost pour go all the way across the door opening to the opposite wall and that when you pour the floor, all of the infill is removed from the frost pour so the that the slab pour will bear directly on the frost pour.
Since I started at the bottom, the next step is the sill... You do need to use a sill sealer and I would HIGHLY recommend using a separate PT sill and then framing the complete wall with its own bottom plate. Here's the reasoning... when you attach a sill to a foundation, you have a limited number of points where you will be attaching the sill to the concrete. Wood being what it is, you will have to make your J bolt holes a little over sized to let you straighten the sill material as you install it. These limited attachment points do not guarantee that your sill will be arrow straight. If your wall has a bottom plate of its own, you provide clearance for the J bolt washers and nuts in that bottom plate, stand the wall and then you have the ability to straighten the wall and fasten it to the sill as you go (if anyone thinks 36 feet of wall is going to be anywhere near straight just as you built it, I got a nice bridge for sale) Your best bet is to stand the wall, get each end where you want it with respect to the sill, tack it and then nail a small block of 2x stock to the stud at each end. String a line from block to block. This line is now 1.5 inches off the desired plane of the wall. You can then check the position of the wall with a 3rd 2x block used as a gauge between the line and the studs as you nail the bottom plate to the sill. This leads me to one more caution about setting the sill. I mentioned the limited attachment points, I should have also mentioned that at no point do you want the sill to fall any less than flush with the outside of the concrete. This all sounds kinda detailed but in reality, there is no guarantee that you concrete will be perfectly straight or the pour be perfectly square. These realities are much more easily addressed when you're working with just a chunk of 2x6 as opposed to 36 feet of 12 foot high wall. Then, you stand your wall, string it and straighten it as you nail it down. Your wall sheathing needs to extend down so that you can nail it off to the sill to get ample attachment and resistance to uplift. Your local code may require additional tie requirements. Your local code may also call for the J bolts to go through both the sill and the bottom plate of the wall, that's not the case in my area and it's a PITA sometimes when there is some relatively large straightening going on.
Your sill joints can be **** joints or if you want to get fancy, you can do a scarf joint. This involves cutting the sill board at a 45 degree angle and then the mating piece at 45 degrees as well, the advantage of this is that it lets you nail the sill pieces to each other at the joint (not really necessary if your using a separate sill and bottom plate)
As others have posted, you need to be sure your corner framing detail includes a inside nailer for the wall material.
While you will find a wealth of know how here at GJ, Now is the time to buy a good basic framing book. A good book will explain in detail the hows and whys of framing layout, wall straightening (you're going to need to do that as well at the top plate of each wall too) spring bracing, plumbing and leveling techniques and nailing schedules.
Hope this helps.
