The Best Light Fixture Ever!

[Platonic Solid]

Is there any vendor where you can order/configure a fixture with a specific ballast? A bare fixture with no ballast is as much as an off-the-shelf box store fixture ~$40. The 49455 HBF ballast is ~$45. There are other companies that make tandem fixtures with HBF ballasts, all imports, I'm finding it difficult to get specs on some of them. I'm looking at 20 fixtures total, I hate to gut and toss 20 ballasts or try to sell them piecemeal on eBay.

Practically all the major luminaire manufacturers will make fixtures to order per your specifications. You can custom order Cooper Metalux and Acuity Lithonia from Home Depot, Lowes and most electrical wholesalers. Just download the manufacturers spec sheet for the fixture you want - spec the fixture using their boxcar nomenclature and add whatever ballast you want to the end. I'm not sure you'll save anything over buying 2 of the cheap $17 Cooper Metalux fixtures, tossing the ballasts (they're not worth selling on eBay) and powering them with one $30 Sylvania 49455 = $64 per 4 lamp fixture pair + shipping and lamps.

 

[CS223]

I lucked up after numerous searches and found lightbulbs247.com who was very responsive and they quoted the exact tandem fixtures for $59 plus shipping.

 

[GreenScrew]

After a good hour plus, I feel significantly educated. Thanks, PS. What I'm looking to do is improve existing lighting of two garages. One is 28x34 and the other is 24x28. They both currently have 6 naked incandescent bulbs in cheap ceramic fixtures. 150 watt bulbs in the larger garage and 60 watt in the other. I know it won't create ideal lighting, but my thinking was to replace each light with a 4' 2 light T8 for greatly improved and more efficient lighting. Not sure if there are any concerns with my plans so far, but here's my questions regarding the future lights:

First, one of my concerns is for the min start temp. At -20 I should be good. The garages have good heaters so if I'm doing any significant work the temp won't a problem but I want to make sure I have some light if I'm popping in to fire up the snow blower or grab a shovel. Incandescent in the openers are adequate backup for these cases but not real convenient so hoping to -20 with this setup I'll get some light.

From the spreadsheet it would seem the combo 49853/21781 (row 10) @ $15.33 is the least expensive ballast and light combo that will work at -20. And this combo will give me a nice lumen upgrade vs the current 150/60 watt bulbs. Do I have that right?

Finally, I'm in Wisconsin and can pick up the previously mentioned fixture just down the road at Fleet Farm. But I'm confused that the fixture is a T12. Aren't the T12 and T8 ends that the light twists in to different size and incompatible? I guess its not really clear, or mentioned in the thread, but was my assumption that the T8 had a narrower diameter and wouldn't be compatible.

In lumen output, it looks to me to be almost double the 150w bulbs for about the equivalent cost of the 60w bulbs. Appreciate any feedback, validation, and/of clarification. Thanks so much.

And thanks again for such an educational thread!!

 

[Platonic Solid]

You will get light at -20, they'll just have striation (wavy light pattern) until they warm up.

You will significantly improve light output with the upgrade you've picked. More importantly, the light is distributed over a larger area and your going from a 750 hr bulb life span to at least 24,000 hrs.

Typical 4ft T8 and T12 fluorescent lamps both have identical pin spacing, thus fit into the same sockets (aka: G13 Medium Bipin).
Since you've selected an Instand Start ballast, when you wire the fixture you will need to run a small jumper wire to connect the left and right side of each lampholder.

This picture is accurate for the selected ballast:

Don't forget to fill out the Sylvania warranty linked at the bottom of the spread sheet to get the 5 year warranty on both lamps and ballasts.

 

[GreenScrew]

Thanks for the reply! Can I'm assume the necessary wires should all exist but that they aren't configured as they need to be for the new ballast? In other words, no soldering will be necessary it will be a simple matter of connecting the new ballast (as depicted by the posted graphic/diagram) by cutting and connecting existing wires with wire nuts?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Yes, just keep in mind that the ballast in that Metalux Fleet fixture is the oddest wired ballast I've ever seen (pictured below). It runs the neutral through circuit interrupt lampholders. Just cut the ballast out and wire the new ballast per the wiring diagram on the ballast.

Strip all wires between 3/8" to 1/2"

I prefer Ideal 30-1033 Push-In Connectors to wire nuts, package of 300 here: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-In...Standard-Package-is-3-Bags-30-1033P/203734781

 

[cybrdyke]

Since you've selected an Instand Start ballast, when you wire the fixture you will need to run a small jumper wire to connect the left and right side of each lampholder.

This picture is accurate for the selected ballast:

There's no reason to install this jumper.

Don't forget to fill out the Sylvania warranty linked at the bottom of the spread sheet to get the 5 year warranty on both lamps and ballasts.

This is a commercial warranty. Have you confirmed with them that they will honor it on small residential garage retrofits?

 

[cybrdyke]

Yes, just keep in mind that the ballast in that Metalux Fleet fixture is the oddest wired ballast I've ever seen (pictured below). It runs the neutral through circuit interrupt lampholders. /QUOTE]

That's the old style Preheat ballast reincarnated in an electronic version by Pacific because it's cheap to make. This is a really good example of why the unknowing public buys cheap crappy fixtures from places like F&F, and then get disappointed when the things fail after a short time. I'm continually amazed by it....
CD

 

[Platonic Solid]

There's no reason to install this jumper.

Maybe not, but I see no reason not to follow the ballast manufacturers published wiring diagram.

This is a commercial warranty. Have you confirmed with them that they will honor it on small residential garage retrofits?

It's a warranty that makes no commercial/residential installation location distinction. That's good enough for me.
Do you have evidence to the contrary?

 

[cybrdyke]

Do you have evidence to the contrary?

No. But I'm double checking it....
CD

 

[sbosecker]

Agreed. My goal is to provide the most efficient and effective lighting solutions via defining the individual components. If you want to spend lots of money (which I'm sure you don't) you could contact any of the major lighting suppliers - Lithonia - Metalux, and ask for a fixture with the exact ballast you want. Since that is the expensive route, and buying an empty strip light enclosure is nearly impossible unless you're a lighting manufacturer, the cheap method is to buy a low cost strip light in the $20 to $30 range (make sure the lamps have good spacing = approx 3" on center) and chuck the existing ballast (assuming it's a cheapo no-name brand) buy the ballast and lamp combination that best suits your environment and usage from the spreadsheet and your done. With careful shopping it can all be done for less than $50 per fixture and you'll have energy efficient long lasting quality light output.

Platonic Solid,

So this, at least to me, begs the question...

Why doesn't a lighting supplier manufacture something like in your spreadsheet? Is there not a large enough market for a fixture like this?

I'm almost certainly missing something obvious so please be gentle.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[Platonic Solid]

Platonic Solid,

So this, at least to me, begs the question...

Why doesn't a lighting supplier manufacture something like in your spreadsheet? Is there not a large enough market for a fixture like this?

I'm almost certainly missing something obvious so please be gentle.

Best regards,

Scott

1. Big box stores know that the majority of their customers don't know the difference between a $20 strip light with a $3 no name instant start ballast and a $40 strip light with a $20 premium brand program start ballast. The $20 fixture will sell out while the $40 fixture collects dust. If you want quality you have to special order it or build it yourself.

2. No one, including myself, has any incentive to invest time and effort in marketing fluorescent fixtures. I have so many LED projects going right now I can hardly keep track of them all. Fluorescents still win the bang for the buck contest, but LEDs are catching up (no surprise there).

What I find most ironic is that many will rush to spends $40 on a Feit LED shop light with a claimed 50,000 hr. life, no IES proof of its efficiency claims and is complete garbage when it fails, yet won't spend that same $40 on an 80,000 hr. fluorescent that has IES proof of its efficiency and is easily repaired.

 

[cybrdyke]

No. But I'm double checking it....
CD

Sylvania's answer to the question "Is your extended lamp/ballast system warranty available to residential or commercial owners who buy them from internet sites like Amazon, 1000bulbs.com, and ebay?"

Thank you for contacting SYLVANIA. As long you buy our products from an authorized SYLVANIA dealer they would qualify for the quick 60 warranty. Amazon and 1000bulbs are authorized dealers so they would be a good place. I would avoid buying any lighting from Ebay as we do not warranty products purchased through there. If you have any further questions let us know.


Best Regards,

SYLVANIA Lightbulb Team

GE and Philips responded similarly on their extended warranty's, which are basically the same as Sylvania's.
They all cautioned about buying from "Authorized Dealers". When you're web-surfing, it's hard to determine if the internet seller is authorized or not. It rarely will say so on the webpage. There are lots of non-authorized sites out there. I guess it pays to ask the question before spending your money "Are you a Sylvania/Philips/GE authorized dealer?.....buyer beware.
All of them definitely ruled out ebay purchases.
CD

 

[sbosecker]

1. Big box stores know that the majority of their customers don't know the difference between a $20 strip light with a $3 no name instant start ballast and a $40 strip light with a $20 premium brand program start ballast. The $20 fixture will sell out while the $40 fixture collects dust. If you want quality you have to special order it or build it yourself.

2. No one, including myself, has any incentive to invest time and effort in marketing fluorescent fixtures. I have so many LED projects going right now I can hardly keep track of them all. Fluorescents still win the bang for the buck contest, but LEDs are catching up (no surprise there).

What I find most ironic is that many will rush to spends $40 on a Feit LED shop light with a claimed 50,000 hr. life, no IES proof of its efficiency claims and is complete garbage when it fails, yet won't spend that same $40 on an 80,000 hr. fluorescent that has IES proof of its efficiency and is easily repaired.

Platonic Solid,

There's nothing like a good night's sleep to focus one's attention.

Ballasts seem, to me, to be the wild card here. They are the beating heart of a fixture. The tubes are certainly very important but they are sold separate from the fixture so they figure into the equation differently.

I suppose the question I should have asked is, "If these nice ballasts aren't being used in anything other than 'Made-To-Order-Custom' fixtures, how does that business model work?"

I guess I'm surprised that they exist at all.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[Platonic Solid]

Platonic Solid,

There's nothing like a good night's sleep to focus one's attention.

Ballasts seem, to me, to be the wild card here. They are the beating heart of a fixture. The tubes are certainly very important but they are sold separate from the fixture so they figure into the equation differently.

I suppose the question I should have asked is, "If these nice ballasts aren't being used in anything other than 'Made-To-Order-Custom' fixtures, how does that business model work?"

I guess I'm surprised that they exist at all.

Best regards,

Scott

Ah, that one is easy. Residential customers are not who they or I make fixtures for. We make fixtures for commercial customers who order 500 - 2,000 at a clip and they specify exactly what they want. Some of the ballasts they spec are over $80 each in quantity! Try looking up prices for Lutron ballasts.

 

[sbosecker]

Ah, that one is easy. Residential customers are not who they or I make fixtures for. We make fixtures for commercial customers who order 500 - 2,000 at a clip and they specify exactly what they want. Some of the ballasts they spec are over $80 each in quantity! Try looking up prices for Lutron ballasts.

Platonic Solid,

Thanks. That makes sense.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[GreenScrew]

I got supplies for 15 lights last week, wired them all up, and have the smaller garage installed. I'm really happy with the upgrade. Find out this winter if I have any problems in could temps. Thanks so much Platonic Solid for sharing your research and wisdom! Interestingly, I was at the local discount home store here and happened to notice they had the same ballasts as I bought for my lights at a price double that of the link provided by Platonic. All in all, good and inexpensive lighting. When I'm all done (have lots of sheetrock to finish up by winter) maybe I'll post some pictures.

The 3 extra lights are going over the shop benches.

 

[GreenScrew]

And was just going to mention, out of 15 lights from FF, there were 4 different ballasts in them with different wiring. But the wiring of the new ballasts is very easy and straight-forward.

 

[Platonic Solid]

And was just going to mention, out of 15 lights from FF, there were 4 different ballasts in them with different wiring. But the wiring of the new ballasts is very easy and straight-forward.

4 different ballasts - Wow, they must be depleting their inventory. I'm thrilled to see someone else brave enough to go for it. I hate to see all this effort go to waste. Yes, please post pics.

 

[socal77]

Glad to help. It's a give and take. One of the few LED lamps that I haven't actually had my hands on is the Samsung, so I'm looking forward to your pictures and real world experience comments.

Got pricing from RemPhos and it's way high - over $40 each, so I'm not even going to bother putting them in the spreadsheet. So Samsung is still winning the LED relamp race.

Impressive job on the price match +5%. That has to be the lowest cost real strip light I've ever seen. Have you rewired one yet?

Platonic Solid,

I have been researching lighting options & downloaded the DIALux evo software that you referenced in another thread. After doing multiple "what ifs", I would really like to go LED. Unfortunately, most of the turnkey LED offerings are cost prohibitive. Then I ran across this thread and it appears that the Samsung, ballast bypass would be an excellent, low cost LED solution. I did not see a finish posting from Kars85, so it is unclear if this approach was successful or not.

Is there an IES file that I could use to model the Samsung lamps in a two lamp, 4' fixture or a four lamp, 8' tandem fixture?

Thanks!!

 

[Platonic Solid]

Platonic Solid,

I have been researching lighting options & downloaded the DIALux evo software that you referenced in another thread. After doing multiple "what ifs", I would really like to go LED. Unfortunately, most of the turnkey LED offerings are cost prohibitive. Then I ran across this thread and it appears that the Samsung, ballast bypass would be an excellent, low cost LED solution. I did not see a finish posting from Kars85, so it is unclear if this approach was successful or not.

Is there an IES file that I could use to model the Samsung lamps in a two lamp, 4' fixture or a four lamp, 8' tandem fixture?

Thanks!!

Unfortunately Kars85 hasn't been on since February, so I don't think he's coming back to tell us how it went. As for IES files, none of the LED retrofit lamps have IES files available. We can estimate that the resulting output is roughly equivalent to an F32T8, thus you would end up having to use 142 lamps as illustrated in this post. Price is about the same either way. The biggest problem is the Samsung lamps 160° Bean Spread will not provide any up-light.

$19 x 142 = $2698 for LED lamps
$17 x 71 = $1207 for fixture housings
Total = $3905

vs
This Layout Post
$5 x 90 = $450 for F54T5HO Lamps
$80 x 45 = $3600 for fixtures
Total = $4050

 

[rodm1]

Lots of information to look over thanks

 

[socal77]

Unfortunately Kars85 hasn't been on since February, so I don't think he's coming back to tell us how it went. As for IES files, none of the LED retrofit lamps have IES files available. We can estimate that the resulting output is roughly equivalent to an F32T8, thus you would end up having to use 142 lamps as illustrated in this post. Price is about the same either way. The biggest problem is the Samsung lamps 160° Bean Spread will not provide any up-light.

$19 x 142 = $2698 for LED lamps
$17 x 71 = $1207 for fixture housings
Total = $3905

vs
This Layout Post
$5 x 90 = $450 for F54T5HO Lamps
$80 x 45 = $3600 for fixtures
Total = $4050

Thanks Platonic Solid. I was thinking of installing the LEDs at 14' height rather than following the roof slope, to provide more uniform lighting at counter height. At that height it seems that the 160 degree beam spread would provide uniform overall room lighting. Not sure how significant up-lighting is. What is the beam angle of T8 & T5HO? The advantages of LEDs may outweigh the up-lighting of T8s or T5HOs. Am I looking at this correctly?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Up-Light on fluorescent bulbs is fixture dependent. The beam spread of linear (T5, T8, T12 ...) fluorescent lamps is 360°, but you don't normally refer to it that way. In addition to preventing the space from having the dark ceiling cave effect, up-light against a high reflectance ceiling surface can significantly reduce shadows as it improves light distribution. Though there aren't any IES files for retrofit LED lamps, try using a file from a strip light with a solid reflector. This will mimic the 0% up-light effect, which wouldn't be my preference if it was my garage.

 

[socal77]

Up-Light on fluorescent bulbs is fixture dependent. The beam spread of linear (T5, T8, T12 ...) fluorescent lamps is 360°, but you don't normally refer to it that way. In addition to preventing the space from having the dark ceiling cave effect, up-light against a high reflectance ceiling surface can significantly reduce shadows as it improves light distribution. Though there aren't any IES files for retrofit LED lamps, try using a file from a strip light with a solid reflector. This will mimic the 0% up-light effect, which wouldn't be my preference if it was my garage.

Thanks Platonic Solid. Sounds like the Samsung LED is a no-go after all. Guess I am back to t5 or t8.

 

[Platonic Solid]

You can minimize the cave effect by keeping them close to the ceiling. Following the purlins of your garage I would think 8 rows of 12 fixtures using purlins 1,2,4,7,9,10 would do the job, but now we're up to 96 fixtures and 192 bulbs:

$19 x 192 = $3648 for LED lamps
$17 x 96 = $1632 for fixture housings
Total = $5280

 

[510ebl]

I hate to see all this effort go to waste. Yes, please post pics.

Lurker here... I don't think you need to worry about your effort going to waste. I am two or three hours into reading and bookmarking this thread and others about garage lighting for my "little" 24x25 I am planning. The information you have compiled and offered up in your posts has been both enlightening and cost saving for me.

Thank you for your efforts, and thanks to all the others who have contributed as well!

 

[socal77]

You can minimize the cave effect by keeping them close to the ceiling. Following the purlins of your garage I would think 8 rows of 12 fixtures using purlins 1,2,4,7,9,10 would do the job, but now we're up to 96 fixtures and 192 bulbs:

$19 x 192 = $3648 for LED lamps
$17 x 96 = $1632 for fixture housings
Total = $5280

I was thinking of suspending them for the following reasons:
1. uniform height above floor for more uniform illumination.
2. fixtures could be mounted end-to-end to minimize number of electrical drops & provide contiguous light strip. Not possible at purlin height due to I-beams as shown below.

 

[yousah]

Thank you everyone for your contributions to this forum. I'm in the process of designing my lighting plan for a simple 24' x 24' workshop. There are going to be some sewing machine workstations being used in the workshop as well as having a general area with some basic woodworking tools, and I have some basic questions.

I'm looking at these fixtures
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/newreply.php?do=postreply&t=278420

and noticed in the instructions say that they are not intended for "continuous row application". I'm not sure what they mean by that. Obviously they'll be mounted in a row on the ceiling but I'm wondering if the limitation they are talking about has more to do with how they are wired. I'm guessing that they are not intended on having wiring coming into the fixture, then also going back out to another fixture. Would that seem to be correct?

If that's the case then this seems like a serious limitation. Otherwise, I'd have to be running separate wiring runs to each fixture. I'm also guessing that the more expensive fixtures might have a simple wiring box inside that is intended for more complicated wiring schemes such as running them in a row. Just wondering if my assumptions are correct on this.

Finally, my electrician is coming over next week and I'm not sure of the exact layout of my workstations, and my lighting needs may change over time. So I was going to have him put in ceiling boxes that I can tap into in the future if my needs change. I can run surface mounted conduit if my needs change. Would there be any disadvantage if buying cord mounted fixture than can simply be plugged into the ceiling boxes after outlets were installed? Super thanks!

 

[yousah]

I was finally able to find a phone number for Cooper lighting and got my answer. The lights that are not intended for row lighting don't have knockouts on the ends, nor do they have a continuous wiring channel running he length of the fixture.

Still wondering if a corded version is a good option for future flexibility.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Updated Spread Sheet: Lighting System Comparison
Add James Industry LED Retrofit
Rem Obsolete Cree LED
Rem Obsolete Osram LED
Verify-update all links

I've been waiting for this particular James Industry lamp to be available for online purchase without the insane China shipping charges and now it is. Available at Shineretrofits for $12.99 ea. I've been testing their 18W version for the last 6 months without any issues. This is the beginning of the transition where LED becomes more cost effective than Fluorescent. If you factor in the Lumen per Watt efficacy, this lamp actually beats everything on the spreadsheet.

As discussed in other threads, avoid sharp point LED light source with the frosted lens option.

 

[70Chevy]

Updated Spread Sheet: Lighting System Comparison
Add James Industry LED Retrofit
Rem Obsolete Cree LED
Rem Obsolete Osram LED
Verify-update all links

I've been waiting for this particular James Industry lamp to be available for online purchase without the insane China shipping charges and now it is. Available at Shineretrofits for $12.99 ea. I've been testing their 18W version for the last 6 months without any issues. This is the beginning of the transition where LED becomes more cost effective than Fluorescent. If you factor in the Lumen per Watt efficacy, this lamp actually beats everything on the spreadsheet.

As discussed in other threads, avoid sharp point LED light source with the frosted lens option.

Is this one that eliminate the ballast - direct wire to the lamps?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Yes, it is a ballast bypass (direct wire lamp holders to AC) and since it is wired hot to one end neutral to other end, it doesn't matter whether you have shunted or unshunted lamp holders.

 

[sailah]

Hi PS,

I wanted to thank you for all the effort you make in your lighting recommendations. I am redoing a 28x20 garage with 8' ceilings and used your layout thread to get some ideas about layout. I tried to stick to the plan of 3 rows (4 lights in each row) with a few end lights at the back of the garage where I have machine tools. Unfortunately lalley columns and garage door openers got in the way and I had to make some game time decisions.

I wired them up to 2 separate switches and was just blown away how even the light is, lack of shadows etc. I tried to concentrate the fixtures above where I am doing detailed work like on my hydraulic lift table and lathe.

I used the Lithonia SB232 from Home Depot along with the Philips T8 cool white 32W bulbs. Interestingly I had originally bought a 10 pack for ~$25 and they had a higher CRI index of 82 with a submodel 841. I went to another Home Depot and bought a 30 pack and they had a CRI of 79, submodel 741. I decided 3 wasn't enough to make me sweat, as a bonus, somehow the 30 pack rang up for $14.

It went from a 2 bulb dimly lit cave. Here were the first 2 as a test



To this. It's actually much brighter than it looks, I was standing outside with my phone





In the last photo you can see the right garage bay with the door closed, I have concentrated 2 rows of fixtures above where my table saw and woodworking bench will be. I haven't installed the lights above the open garage door yet as I'm still decided what will be there. Any suggestions?

One specific question I have is regarding lighting above my hydraulic lift table (grey 36x72 with **** all over it, in middle picture). Would you think I should put 2 more fixtures running perpendicular to the other fixtures above this table or is that overkill? I guess time with tell. Certainly seems like enough light as is.

EDIT: I have 14 total fixtures in the garage, and 2 more in the boxes.

Thanks

 

[turtl631]

Updated Spread Sheet: Lighting System Comparison
Add James Industry LED Retrofit
Rem Obsolete Cree LED
Rem Obsolete Osram LED
Verify-update all links

I've been waiting for this particular James Industry lamp to be available for online purchase without the insane China shipping charges and now it is. Available at Shineretrofits for $12.99 ea. I've been testing their 18W version for the last 6 months without any issues. This is the beginning of the transition where LED becomes more cost effective than Fluorescent. If you factor in the Lumen per Watt efficacy, this lamp actually beats everything on the spreadsheet.

As discussed in other threads, avoid sharp point LED light source with the frosted lens option.

I noticed you only have the 5000K version of the James Industry LED in your spreadsheet. Any difference compared to the 4000K version other than color temperature?

 

[Platonic Solid]

I noticed you only have the 5000K version of the James Industry LED in your spreadsheet. Any difference compared to the 4000K version other than color temperature?

Yes, as is typical in LEDs, you get slightly higher lumen output with 5000K than any other CCT. The difference is only 1 lm per LED, but there are 132 LEDs so that changes the lumen output per lamp from 2640 at 5000K to 2508 at 4000K.

 

[kimokalihi]

This is a great thread. Thanks for doing the research. I really need lights in my garage and I'm getting anxious to purchase some but I want to get the best ones. Guess I got some reading to do. I was about to buy some on Amazon based on popularity and reviews alone since that's the extent of my knowledge on the subject. But I'll hold off for a bit and see if I can't make a more informed decision.

Here's the ones I'm talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UTX4HJS/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16J16N1NU5WPS

Sent from my HTC6600LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Platonic Solid]

In the last photo you can see the right garage bay with the door closed, I have concentrated 2 rows of fixtures above where my table saw and woodworking bench will be. I haven't installed the lights above the open garage door yet as I'm still decided what will be there. Any suggestions?

Options:
1. Continue the pattern you have going, assuming there is enough clearance above the garage door and you don't mind the open door covering some fixtures. It's hard for me to tell what's going on with the fixtures at the closed garage area.

2. Though not ideal wall spacing, if you have space between the side of the garage door and the wall you can put a narrow wrap there. I'd only consider doing this if you often work with the garage door open.

One specific question I have is regarding lighting above my hydraulic lift table (grey 36x72 with **** all over it, in middle picture). Would you think I should put 2 more fixtures running perpendicular to the other fixtures above this table or is that overkill? I guess time with tell. Certainly seems like enough light as is.

I would leave as is for the moment. If you find you'd like a little more task lighting there, installing 1 fixture perpendicular to the rest - right in the middle (at middle support post) will do the trick.

Thanks for posting pics! It's good to see that the layouts work as advertised.

 

[Platonic Solid]

This is a great thread. Thanks for doing the research. I really need lights in my garage and I'm getting anxious to purchase some but I want to get the best ones. Guess I got some reading to do. I was about to buy some on Amazon based on popularity and reviews alone since that's the extent of my knowledge on the subject. But I'll hold off for a bit and see if I can't make a more informed decision.

Here's the ones I'm talking about.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UTX4HJS/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16J16N1NU5WPS

I can't comment on a fixture without knowing the application: room size + wall & ceiling finish.

 

[kimokalihi]

It's flat beige white painted textured drywall on the walls. Typical 2 car garage guessing 22x24 or something. Haven't measured but I can for sure. I believe the ceiling is the same finish as the walls.

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