The Best Light Fixture Ever!

[idleclamp]

Alright, the fixtures and bulbs just came in. I was looking them over prior to installation and might have a compatibility issue, but I'm not sure.

I bought these fixtures:

MaxLite LSS2XT8USE4803 - 2-Lamp T8 LED Ready Linear Utility Strip

...and these bulbs:

19.5W - 2250 Lumens - 4ft DLC LED T8 Tube - 5000K - James T818W1200BIXXDF50F1

...which are the ones recommended at the beginning of the thread. The fixtures say they only work with single-ended bulbs. However, these bulbs don't seem to be single-ended based on the installation instructions.

http://www.beeslighting.com/v/vspfiles/assets/files/James/james-T818W1200-installation.pdf

It doesn't seem like they're compatible. Or am I missing something?

 

[Platonic Solid]

idleclamp - Please post a picture of the wiring diagram on the lamp - as that is the only reliable diagram.

Note that the beeslighting page and linked spec sheet both claim universal single or dual end wiring compatibility. The housing/lamp combination you have should work just fine as is. Have you tested one?

 

[idleclamp]

These are the instructions showing the wiring.



This is what's on the fixture.



This is what's on the bulb. They do not look like they're compatible. But thought I would ask in hopes that I'm missing something.


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[gpflepsen]

Sorry, my post was not correct and had bad information.

If you can wire the tombstones to be shunted, you're good to go. N to one end and L to the other.

 

[idleclamp]

The fixture has non-shunted tombstones for one end. But the other tombstone ends have both the lead and neutral wired into them (one wire on each lead). I just want to make sure these are okay to use together.


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[Platonic Solid]

That lamp is universal = it can be wired either way plus is ballast compatible. You have the housings and bulbs. Just put one bulb in a housing and power it up and see if it works as advertised. If you're uncomfortable with that test, power it up on a switched GFCI outlet.

 

[Skelly]

Platonic,

I ordered the LED bulbs that you recommended in your first post.

Just received this email below:

Any recommendations on an alternate supplier?

Edit: Looks like you updated the link for the bulbs. I will try that place!

Edit II: Ugh price went from $9.75 at Shine Retrofits to 11.99 at Bees Lighting. Damn it.

 

[Skelly]

Platonic,

As my lights were canceled, I may want to go a different direction.

I went into our panelshop at work and they had (what appears like) 2x2' square suspended led lights. The light output was amazing.

Our company recently bought the building so I have no way to verify brand without getting up on a ladder. Do you have any recommendations for 2x2 led lights?

 

[Platonic Solid]

Skelly - If you find the page-1-post-1 lamp & housing combination too expensive, I can't help you. If you find an acceptable LED fixture that provides 117Lm/$1 and 125Lm/W please post it.

 

[ExxWhy]

ExxWhy - At 13.5' mounting height, LED really isn't cost effective. I'd go with Qty. 23, 8ft 4-lamp F32T8 Tandem strip lights with a high ballast factor Ballast (BF = 1.15 min), thus 92 lamps. Suggested ballast = Sylvania 49455

Perimeter fixtures all 3ft from respective wall. 1ft space between each in 4 fixture rows.
Here are the photometric results in PDF.

I'm in the process of executing this plan with some modification. So far, it's looking good!

Picked up 16 of the Sylvania 49455 along with 4 Sylvania 49873 2 lamp instant start ballast with the same BF. Sylvania 21781 bulbs and 36 of the Maxlite housings. Total cost $1322 ($36.72 per 4' fixture) and I have 18 extra tubes.

For the time being, I am going with 4 rows of 9 4' fixtures and no perpendicular fixtures. Not sure about some shelving I may put up on one end, and the doors are on the other end. Adding more later is a possibility. I have them wired on 8 switches that operate every other fixture in each row. May be overkill, but it gives me a lot of flexibility of how much light I have on. It will be 20 amps of lighting with them all on.

In retrospect, it would be better to have the lights between the doors mounted below the door track. Shadows are more than I expected, but it may be OK in practice. Not expecting a lot of activity right by the doors anyway.

As of this writing, the middle 2 rows are installed. It's fairly time consuming to wire them, but my labor is "free" and I don't get in a hurry. The housings are decent quality and standard fluorescent housings with a tab for the ballast. Doing it off a ladder would be bogus, but not bad on scaffolding. Light seems even and bright, but not glaring.

Thanks a bunch for this scheme, I would have never come up with that ballast on my own. I'll post more pics when it's all done.

BTW, I am getting zero radio interference with these lights.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Sweet! Apparently I can't count since my original post said 23 fixtures and should have said 22 - at least the PDF has the right Qty. Naturally the perpendicular end fixtures would clean up the garage door track shadows, and yes, as you state - the alternative is to drop those fixtures below the tracks. My vote is still to add end fixtures for best results.

Holy switches Batman! That's some serious flexibility. Since you're running two 2-lamp fixtures from one 4-lamp ballast, doesn't that make the 9th fixture a PIA to wire?

Here's the DIALux interpretation (linked) of the direction your heading.

 

[ExxWhy]

The 9th fixture is running off a different 2 lamp ballast (49873). Instant start instead of program, but the same BF. The cheapskate in me couldn't swallow paying more for the 2 lamp ballast than the 4 lamp ballasts, so I went with the instant start alternative. It will be a while before I'll notice the difference in bulb life.

Thanks for the new plot. Got a third row installed today, so now I have an idea of what the numbers mean and it seems pretty bright to me as is, VERY satisfied so far. There will be a lift in the center bay, thinking I may put some perpendicular fixtures above the ends of the lift.

Before I decided on these fixtures, I had run the wiring to them with 14 ga wire. At 1.22 amps per ballast, it's running at 11 amps for 2 rows. Can't run any more without running another feed up there. Still can, no insulation up there yet, but it won't be fun. My bad on planning.

 

[scheu]

Platonic Solid,
Would the Lithonia ZL1N L48 7000LM FST MVOLT 40K 80CRI WH be too much for a 12' ceiling? Would the 5000LM be better?
Thanks, scheu

 

[Platonic Solid]

scheu - 7000Lm is perfect for 12' ceiling.

 

[midwesta]

Platonic - how does this complete fixture compare to what you have listed in post #1?

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/4ft-led-shoplight-shoplight-led/prod16460030.ip?navAction=

35x19x9 drywall garage. planning on getting 12.

If it is much worse than your original recommendation, do you have a comparable bulb that would be in stock somewhere as the original are out of stock everywhere it seems.

 

[Platonic Solid]

midwesta - I changed link on page 1 to 4000K which is available at same price. Previous one was 5000K. As far as shop light vs retrofit fixture: lm/$ is about the same, just a matter of whether you want hanging corded fixtures with pull chains or hardwired surface mount. I suppose you could make an argument in favor of the retrofit lamps as they are replaceable as technology improves, but at these prices I'm not sure it makes that much difference.

 

[burger]

Hello Svend,

Based on your recommendations, I have purchased ten 4-bulb SYLVANIA QHE4X32T8/UNV PSH-HT program rapid start ballasts.

I would like to install them in one of these two fixtures:
US Energy Sciences LED T8 Tube Ready 8 Foot 4 Lamp Strip Light Housing No Reflector
or
MaxLite Lamp Ready Linear Utility Strip, 4 Foot

Do I want any pre-wiring for these fixtures/ballasts? If not, what wire would I use to connect my ballasts?

The US Energy Sciences fixtures are available with "double ended" wiring. Would this be useful?

If I purchase the Max Lite housings, how do you combine two 4 foot housings to make one 8 foot housing?


Sorry for all the questions but I'm lost on this one!

Thanks!
Ed

 

[midwesta]

I think the 5000k are available again

http://www.beeslighting.com/product-p/t818w1200bixxdf50f1.htm

 

[Platonic Solid]

Ed, you don't really need any pre-wiring. Just follow the wiring diagram on the spec sheet for a 4-lamp fixture. The only thing that matters is that the lamp holders are the non-shunted type (which they are). I can't comment on how to mechanically connect 2 Maxlite housings, but I'm sure you'll figure out a way that suites your mounting. As far as wiring is concerned, whether you need any extra wire will depend on where you mount the ballast. If you need more wire than provided with the ballast then buy a reel of white 18awg solid core (linked) use colored electrical tape as necessary to ID the wires you're extending. As long as you don't rush it and take it one lead at a time it's pretty straight forward.(I believe these questions were partially addressed via PM way back in May)

 

[ExxWhy]

Hello Svend,

Based on your recommendations, I have purchased ten 4-bulb SYLVANIA QHE4X32T8/UNV PSH-HT program rapid start ballasts.

I would like to install them in one of these two fixtures:
US Energy Sciences LED T8 Tube Ready 8 Foot 4 Lamp Strip Light Housing No Reflector
or
MaxLite Lamp Ready Linear Utility Strip, 4 Foot

Do I want any pre-wiring for these fixtures/ballasts? If not, what wire would I use to connect my ballasts?

The US Energy Sciences fixtures are available with "double ended" wiring. Would this be useful?

If I purchase the Max Lite housings, how do you combine two 4 foot housings to make one 8 foot housing?


Sorry for all the questions but I'm lost on this one!

Thanks!
Ed

I used the maxlite housings with those same ballasts. The housing comes with about 7' of wire pre-connected to 2 of the tombstones. Use those for the yellow wire connection. See the pic of the fixture a few posts up, the black and white wires are what came with the fixtures. The blue and red wires on the ballast are long enough to make it to the ends direct into the tombstones, you shouldn't need any extra wire if you are butting them end to end for an 8' fixture.

You can use a simple pipe ****** and a couple nuts to connect the fixtures together through the knockouts on the ends. Be aware that it will be difficult to get the tombstones into place with the ******* in the knockout holes, but patient wiggling will get it done.

 

[soj]

Be aware that it will be difficult to get the tombstones into place with the ******* in the knockout holes, but patient wiggling will get it done.

"patient wiggling" I guess that would mean something entirely different to a doctor or nurse!

Sorry for the hijack, it just jumped out at me.
jp

 

[Chadddada]

Hello,

So I am planning on ordering the fixtures from page 1 and a 5K bulb. Here are the links to both items:

Fixture - http://www.beeslighting.com/product-p/lss2xt8use4803.htm

Bulb - http://www.beeslighting.com/product-p/t818w1200bixxdf50f1.htm

Will I have to modify the fixture in anyway out of the box do you think or will this just be hook up the fixture to power and put the bulbs in? I am going to call Bees to verify but they aren't open yet in my time zone.

 

[svtride]

Platonic:
Great info you have provided. Thank you.
For the "best light fixture ever" [post #83 & #86] do the recommended Cooper Lighting 4 Ft. 2-Lamp Standard Striplight T1 contain shunted or non-shunted tombstone receptacles?
I am working a different resource to provide the tombstones http://www.jaftech.com/A244-UNV and have the option to order either shunted on non-shunted. I don't want to deal with having to attach entire light fixtures when I have 8ft T12 fixture housings already screwed to ceiling.

 

[Reddog73]

I've built a 42x80x16. Recently purchased several 4' and 8' T8 fixtures. How far apart should I place them to have adequate lighting for my wood/mechanical shop. My eyes are not what they once were. I would like to be able to see clearly.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Chadddada: No fixture modification required: mount housings - connect to power - install lamps.

svtride: Post #83 (linked) is using a programmed rapid start ballast which requires non-shunted lamp holders. Most LED bypass retrofits also require non-shunted lamp holders.

Reddog73: Your question is fixture dependent. Need more details. I would generally opt for F54T5HO for 16ft ceilings. Are you willing to drop them down or do you want to surface mount?

 

[Dragfluid]

Great thread and lots of good info, Platonic. Have learned a lot!
Thanks!

 

[svtride]

svtride: Post #83 (linked) is using a programmed rapid start ballast which requires non-shunted lamp holders. Most LED bypass retrofits also require non-shunted lamp holders.

Thanks Platonic. Had I kept reading until post #419, I would not had to ask.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I have recommended bulbs and ballasts on order. Will post pics when complete.

 

[midwesta]

Hello,

So I am planning on ordering the fixtures from page 1 and a 5K bulb. Here are the links to both items:

Fixture - http://www.beeslighting.com/product-p/lss2xt8use4803.htm

Bulb - http://www.beeslighting.com/product-p/t818w1200bixxdf50f1.htm

Will I have to modify the fixture in anyway out of the box do you think or will this just be hook up the fixture to power and put the bulbs in? I am going to call Bees to verify but they aren't open yet in my time zone.

This is the exact setup I bought - although I ordered the housings from the original link and they are taking much longer to ship.

Platonic - what will be the major difference between these bulbs and the original 18w "frosted lens" bulbs posted. These are 19.5w and 270deg angle. ?

 

[INTMD8]

For anyone considering the ZL1N 7000 lumen light from Bees lighting, just a heads up.

One of the lights I originally ordered from them said 7000 lumen on the box but 5000 lumen under the light cover.

They sent a second light and it was the exact same thing.

I told them it seems they have some mis boxed lights and someone needs to physically open the light to confirm it's 7000 lumen.

They sent a third light and you guessed it, same thing. Box was never opened (as far as I could tell) and again, 5000 lumen light in the 7000 lumen box.

This time Gaby at Bees lighting said her and her manager both inspected it themselves before sending it out which is impossible really or it would be correct.

 

[pharper]

Has anyone tried this fixture: http://www.beeslighting.com/product-p/st48232-led.htm

The Maxlite fixtures are back ordered to at least the 25th of this month.

 

[midwesta]

I am hoping they get them in sooner than the 25th.

 

[pharper]

I am hoping they get them in sooner than the 25th.

That's what Matt at LED Lighting told me this morning. I placed my order on the 7th of December. When they didn't ship within a week, I inquired. Matt informed me that they were expecting shipment around the 5th. When that didn't happened, I followed up and he told me Maxlight had pushed the date back to the 25th of this month.

 

[Platonic Solid]

For anyone considering the ZL1N 7000 lumen light from Bees lighting, just a heads up.

One of the lights I originally ordered from them said 7000 lumen on the box but 5000 lumen under the light cover.

They sent a second light and it was the exact same thing.

I told them it seems they have some mis boxed lights and someone needs to physically open the light to confirm it's 7000 lumen.

They sent a third light and you guessed it, same thing. Box was never opened (as far as I could tell) and again, 5000 lumen light in the 7000 lumen box.

This time Gaby at Bees lighting said her and her manager both inspected it themselves before sending it out which is impossible really or it would be correct.

Well that's BS. Is the LED PCB the same in both the 7000lm and 5000lm fixtures? Is the driver the same in both the 7000lm and 5000lm fixtures? Does the driver have programmable output?

 

[INTMD8]

I didn't look at anything on the LED PCB other than the stickers. The drivers are marked differently. 40k and 35k and different amp draw but I don't recall the exact #'s.

I sent an email to Lithonia asking if they could check their ZL1N stock for mis boxed lights.

 

[ahazi]

These are the instructions showing the wiring.



This is what's on the fixture.



This is what's on the bulb. They do not look like they're compatible. But thought I would ask in hopes that I'm missing something.


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I had the same concern. I checked the tube on both ends physically inside and also with ohmmeter to verify that it will not short and inserted in the base. It works without any problem.

Ariel

 

[Koko]

I'm struggling here...with 8ft ceiling, I want covered housings. Does Max lite offer an LED Ready Strip Housing with a cover as an option?

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[wind954]

Koko, I am on to the same quest...Try Lithonia as they have a unit for $124.00 each.

 

[Chadddada]

Chadddada: No fixture modification required: mount housings - connect to power - install lamps.

Thanks! Got the lamps so far. I tested them in some current fixtures with ballasts and they look great. Just waiting on the new fixtures now.

 

[Westbank]

Hi Platonic Solid

I'm thinking about installing 7 x Lithonia ZL2N LED fixtures (48") in my 20' x 20' garage with 10' ceiling and white walls.

The fixtures are 48" long, 3000 Lumens & 3000K. This would provide a total of 21000 Lumens. Do you think it would be suitable for a garage like mine ?

Garage Plan:

Lithonia ZL2N Specifications: http://www.acuitybrandslighting.com/library/ll/documents/specsheets/zl2n.pdf

Thanks

 

[idleclamp]

I had the same concern. I checked the tube on both ends physically inside and also with ohmmeter to verify that it will not short and inserted in the base. It works without any problem.



Ariel

Thanks. I finally got the first one installed and it works great.


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