Kaizen
Well-known member
With these 110v and low voltage wires can they both be run in the same conduit between fixtures?
The Best Light Fixture Ever!
- Thread starter Platonic Solid
- Start date
With these 110v and low voltage wires can they both be run in the same conduit between fixtures?
My understanding — not an electrician — only if you buy the more expensive 18-2 wire that is 600V rated. I bought a 250’ or 500’ spool since it also can’t be in the same box unless it has the same rating as the 120V wire (my wires are not in conduit so I don’t have that issue).
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Wondering if anyone has used the LG-4T8E-18WU- tubes by Lumegen.
The product description says they can be used as double ended powered, however the spec sheet online only shows use with ballast or single-ended power.
Any idea if they actually work with double-ended power?
Thanks!
The product description says they can be used as double ended powered, however the spec sheet online only shows use with ballast or single-ended power.
Any idea if they actually work with double-ended power?
Thanks!
MeentSS02
Well-known member
Building pad is in and getting ready to start a 40 x 80 pole building. Concrete floor. No interior walls, just the backside of the metal siding which is painted white, no ceiling. Bottom of roof trusses is at 14 feet. 2:12 sloped metal roof.
40 x 50 of the building is a garage for the boat, tractor, etc and I thought around 20 footcandles would be fine. The last 40 x 30 is shop space and I planned on 100 foot candles.
Reading this thread and the layout thread and trying to use the visualizer tool, it appears that 2 foot high bay lighting on a 20 foot grid will give me approx. 20 foot candles. At the workshop area about a 10 x 9 grid with the same fixtures should give me about 100 footcandles.
I didn't see a similar layout in the thread. Does this feel right? Also it seemed as if the high bay fixtures would be the cheapest route including installation with a 14 foot bottom of truss. Does that seem correct?
Thanks for any help or opinions.
40 x 50 of the building is a garage for the boat, tractor, etc and I thought around 20 footcandles would be fine. The last 40 x 30 is shop space and I planned on 100 foot candles.
Reading this thread and the layout thread and trying to use the visualizer tool, it appears that 2 foot high bay lighting on a 20 foot grid will give me approx. 20 foot candles. At the workshop area about a 10 x 9 grid with the same fixtures should give me about 100 footcandles.
I didn't see a similar layout in the thread. Does this feel right? Also it seemed as if the high bay fixtures would be the cheapest route including installation with a 14 foot bottom of truss. Does that seem correct?
Thanks for any help or opinions.
hemiallen
Well-known member
I have 2 of the Home Depot Commercial electric 2' hibay lights, 18,000lm and 5k . Set one at 12' height and the other at 18'. Not sure if it's my eyes or not, but I think they will be great at my 20' anticipated height, but I could go higher as my eves are 20' and peak is 28'. It seems to me a 10' from the walls and 12' spacing will be very easy to work under, but I am feeling like I am missing something. I took a 2x6 12" tall and moved it to various distances from the 2 different elevation lights, it's interesting how the shadows are very different between the 2 heights of the same light.
Seriously considering the 2' James at 165 watts/ 5k and 24,500 lumens ( vs HD 18,000 at the same $100 each cost), or stepping up to the James 4' at 225 watts, 5k and 30,000 lumen, but I am unsure if the 4' will reduce the number of lights, ie can they be spaced 15' apart , or more, for the same light at 30" as the 18,000 I have been playing with. The layout program isn't working for me, wish I could use it to determine spacing for the layout. At $112 for the 4' James they sure look like a good option, but not having one to actually see it's a tough decision. I don't plan to dim, maybe that's a bad idea.
Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated. I am happy with the 18,000 HD lights, but hate to use them if there is a better option for about the same price, and also reduce the number of lights.
Thanks
Seriously considering the 2' James at 165 watts/ 5k and 24,500 lumens ( vs HD 18,000 at the same $100 each cost), or stepping up to the James 4' at 225 watts, 5k and 30,000 lumen, but I am unsure if the 4' will reduce the number of lights, ie can they be spaced 15' apart , or more, for the same light at 30" as the 18,000 I have been playing with. The layout program isn't working for me, wish I could use it to determine spacing for the layout. At $112 for the 4' James they sure look like a good option, but not having one to actually see it's a tough decision. I don't plan to dim, maybe that's a bad idea.
Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated. I am happy with the 18,000 HD lights, but hate to use them if there is a better option for about the same price, and also reduce the number of lights.
Thanks
ken275
Active member
I just finished installing 14 4' 165 watt 5000k james lights in my 40x72 shop. 3x5 pattern 12' truss spacing. Lights are 15' high. My office is in one corner so I didn't need the 15th. The lights are great but I'm glad I ran mc luminary cable so I could dim them. It's really bright. On an app on my phone it's right at 100fc. 1/2 power is fine for normal use but I like the ability to turn it up.
So developed a layout using James 110W 2' high bay LED's.
Here's how it looks with just the shop lights on.
Here's how it looks with just the garage portion on. I centered the lights along the center line of my three roll-up doors.
Here's how it looks with all lights on.
First time doing this and trial and error will take forever compared to someone with more experience taking a look. Based on the 20 f'c in the garage and 100 f'c in the shop, is there a better fixture to use that would give me better results than the above with a mounting height of 13 to 14 feet? Thanks.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Terry2T - You have the right fixture. Spacing and qty isn't correct. I would do the whole space with the same layout - put on 2 circuits with a dimmer for each side. That gives you even distribution regardless of lumen output and the flexibility to use the storage as workspace when/if you want it.
Here's a basic 40'x80'x14' layout (link) with 70|50|20 Ceiling|Wall|Floor reflectance. Even in a worst case 20|20|20 reflectance scenario it will give you 88 fc avg @ 30" work plane.
Here's a basic 40'x80'x14' layout (link) with 70|50|20 Ceiling|Wall|Floor reflectance. Even in a worst case 20|20|20 reflectance scenario it will give you 88 fc avg @ 30" work plane.
Platonic Solid - Thanks so much for the help and preventing me from making a costly mistake. 3 additional fixtures in your layout and a ton of more flexibility. It was worth the effort to give the software a try so I can understand how important experience is to get it right. Thanks again. Building erection starts in two weeks. I will post photos when done.
Can anyone please advise whether the pictures of the bulbs attached are GLL tubes? I ordered them because they were supposed to be single-end feed for the Maxlite fixtures. The bulbs I received are opposing end only. There is no mention of GLL on the tubes or the box. The small individual boxes are white only with no info. Items were purchased from Pro Lighting..
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Smunderdog
New member
Longtime lurker of the forum - first time poster. Finally got around to upgrading my 2 car garage ceiling lighting this weekend using the Maxlite LED ready fixtures from BeeLighting that are currently on the sticky post at the beginning of this thread. Previously had 2 single light bulbs (one on either side of the garage) - garage ceiling is 10-11" tall.
I did get free shipping and installation was a breeze.
Ordered 4 fixtures, a motion sensor:
Product code LSXR-610 on the Bees Lighting site
and these bulbs:
Product code T8R-22L-50K-DM on the Bees Lighting site
(tried to post direct links but can't do so yet because I'm new on the forum)
After installation I discovered that when the lights are on, the Homelink garage door button in my wife's 2016 Chevy Malibu would not operate the GDO. That led me down the rabbit hole of learning all about RF interference.
What is odd is that our aftermarket key fob style garage door openers have no problems operating the GDO when the lights are on...only the HomeLink system in the car.
It only affects our ability to shut the door when we are leaving the house since we just walked through the garage, activated the motion sensor turning the lights on and backed the car out - so for now I've just adjusted the sensor to only turn the lights on for 30 seconds. After backing out of the garage a short wait in the driveway is all that is required to be able to shut the door now.
The lights are located on either side of the GDO in groups of 2 installed end to end. I think they are roughly 2' away from the GDO and are on the same circuit as the ceiling outlet that the GDO is plugged into.
Much of what I read about re: RF interference seemed to talk about the ballasts used to convert older shop lighting to LED being the culprit. Since these fixtures are LED ready and don't have a ballast - is it the bulb that emits the RF? Still don't fully understand where the source of the RF is but since we only experience the issue when the lights are on.....just wasn't sure if different bulbs might be a potential solution.
I did get free shipping and installation was a breeze.
Ordered 4 fixtures, a motion sensor:
Product code LSXR-610 on the Bees Lighting site
and these bulbs:
Product code T8R-22L-50K-DM on the Bees Lighting site
(tried to post direct links but can't do so yet because I'm new on the forum)
After installation I discovered that when the lights are on, the Homelink garage door button in my wife's 2016 Chevy Malibu would not operate the GDO. That led me down the rabbit hole of learning all about RF interference.
What is odd is that our aftermarket key fob style garage door openers have no problems operating the GDO when the lights are on...only the HomeLink system in the car.
It only affects our ability to shut the door when we are leaving the house since we just walked through the garage, activated the motion sensor turning the lights on and backed the car out - so for now I've just adjusted the sensor to only turn the lights on for 30 seconds. After backing out of the garage a short wait in the driveway is all that is required to be able to shut the door now.
The lights are located on either side of the GDO in groups of 2 installed end to end. I think they are roughly 2' away from the GDO and are on the same circuit as the ceiling outlet that the GDO is plugged into.
Much of what I read about re: RF interference seemed to talk about the ballasts used to convert older shop lighting to LED being the culprit. Since these fixtures are LED ready and don't have a ballast - is it the bulb that emits the RF? Still don't fully understand where the source of the RF is but since we only experience the issue when the lights are on.....just wasn't sure if different bulbs might be a potential solution.
Update: Wired single-end and they work fine! Not sure why wiring diagram does not indicate that.
MTNEERJP
New member
I've been pouring over all the lighting threads (and building threads) and trying to get a plan together, and I am looking for suggestions.
This spring I will be putting up a 36'x36' garage with 14' flat ceilings. Two 10' doors, with a lift in one bay.
With 14' ceilings, would the recommended lighting be the 4' Maxlite fixture, or a high-bay light setup?
And I would love the lighting layout plan, but I understand how time consuming that must be. Can anyone steer me to a layout that is similar in layout?
Thank you in advance
This spring I will be putting up a 36'x36' garage with 14' flat ceilings. Two 10' doors, with a lift in one bay.
With 14' ceilings, would the recommended lighting be the 4' Maxlite fixture, or a high-bay light setup?
And I would love the lighting layout plan, but I understand how time consuming that must be. Can anyone steer me to a layout that is similar in layout?
Thank you in advance
rsparks64
Well-known member
Longtime lurker of the forum - first time poster. Finally got around to upgrading my 2 car garage ceiling lighting this weekend using the Maxlite LED ready fixtures from BeeLighting that are currently on the sticky post at the beginning of this thread. Previously had 2 single light bulbs (one on either side of the garage) - garage ceiling is 10-11" tall.
I did get free shipping and installation was a breeze.
Ordered 4 fixtures, a motion sensor:
Product code LSXR-610 on the Bees Lighting site
and these bulbs:
Product code T8R-22L-50K-DM on the Bees Lighting site
(tried to post direct links but can't do so yet because I'm new on the forum)
After installation I discovered that when the lights are on, the Homelink garage door button in my wife's 2016 Chevy Malibu would not operate the GDO. That led me down the rabbit hole of learning all about RF interference.
What is odd is that our aftermarket key fob style garage door openers have no problems operating the GDO when the lights are on...only the HomeLink system in the car.
It only affects our ability to shut the door when we are leaving the house since we just walked through the garage, activated the motion sensor turning the lights on and backed the car out - so for now I've just adjusted the sensor to only turn the lights on for 30 seconds. After backing out of the garage a short wait in the driveway is all that is required to be able to shut the door now.
The lights are located on either side of the GDO in groups of 2 installed end to end. I think they are roughly 2' away from the GDO and are on the same circuit as the ceiling outlet that the GDO is plugged into.
Much of what I read about re: RF interference seemed to talk about the ballasts used to convert older shop lighting to LED being the culprit. Since these fixtures are LED ready and don't have a ballast - is it the bulb that emits the RF? Still don't fully understand where the source of the RF is but since we only experience the issue when the lights are on.....just wasn't sure if different bulbs might be a potential solution.
I am about to add new LED fixtures in a garage and will have to bone up on those issues too. The last time the single 100 watt bulb went out in one or our garage door openers, I thought I would brighen things up and went from incandescent to a 100 watt equivalent LED bright white bulb and that caused an issue similar to yours. I had to take it out and put an old incandescent back in until, or if, I find something for the garage door opener. It did give me some pause because of my plans to replace the fluorescent light fixtures in the garage with LED.
pioneer1
Well-known member
Well, I just received 2 of these
GLLUSA GL07103-3M(5000K) 48" 18W LED T8
2664 Lumens per bulb, 120° Beam Angle
Universal Ballast Compatible / Ballast Bypass via Single End or Opposing End Wired
5000K - 120-277V - 148 Lumens/Watt - Frosted Lens - Extruded Aluminum Body
to replace (2) T-12 florescent lights. I ordered them because they said Universal Ballast Compatible but only 1 would light up, so does this mean I need to bypass the ballast?
GLLUSA GL07103-3M(5000K) 48" 18W LED T8
2664 Lumens per bulb, 120° Beam Angle
Universal Ballast Compatible / Ballast Bypass via Single End or Opposing End Wired
5000K - 120-277V - 148 Lumens/Watt - Frosted Lens - Extruded Aluminum Body
to replace (2) T-12 florescent lights. I ordered them because they said Universal Ballast Compatible but only 1 would light up, so does this mean I need to bypass the ballast?
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
pioneer1
Well-known member
Well, I removed the ballast, hooked All Blue & Red wires on 1 end to Black power wire, hooked All yellow wires to *********** wire. No lights!!
I must have fried these some how.
I connected direct to the ends of the bulbs and nothing.
Frustrating..
And I am getting voltage..
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
pioneer1 - Contact Prolighting.
Edit - Just for general info, what ballast did you hook these up to?
Edit - Just for general info, what ballast did you hook these up to?
pioneer1
Well-known member
BillK
Well-known member
Sounds like you have them wired incorrectly. Did you look at the wiring diagram ???????
https://smhttp-ssl-40934.nexcesscdn.net/pdf/ballastcompatible.jpg
BillK
Well-known member
BillK
Well-known member
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Wiring sounds correct to me. You could bench test them with hot to one pin and neutral to the other to see if they function in single end powered mode.
Note: That ballast is very old. No retrofit lamp lamp will function properly with a failing ballast.
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BillK
Well-known member
Not according to the wiring diagram on their information sheet ? Or am I looking at it wrong ??
Yep, I will call them Monday
Here's the ballast I removed.
Those old GE Bonus Line's are pretty good. I've got a bunch of them that just keep going.
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
BillK - He has it wired like the bottom diagram you linked to. Note it states shunted or non shunted. He has non-shunted lamp holders. By connecting all red and blue to HOT and all yellow to Neutral it's effectively acting like shunted sockets (both pins getting power).
pioneer1
Well-known member
Ballast was working with florescent bulbs.
I did bench test with connecting neg to 1 end positive to the other end , and nothing.
Are you saying I should try connecting to the pins on 1 end of the lamp?
OK, I printed the wiring diagrams off prolightings website. I didn't see those before. Will trouble shoot tomorrow.
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TTMotorsports
Well-known member
My led bulbs in my unit are power and ground on one end only. The ones at my shop are power one end ground the opposite end. Check to see what your bulbs are then retest.
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Yes, it's the only mode you haven't tried yet.
pioneer1
Well-known member
I bench tested both lights both ways, and nothing. So apparently they got fried when I installed them with the ballast still in the light, which shouldn't have happened since they say "Ballast Compatible"
Will call Prolighting Monday.
Smunderdog
New member
Yea - I found some old posts out on the interwebs as well as some pdf docs that a couple of the major GDO manufacturers put out around the time LED light bulbs were becoming a thing that outlined which bulbs had been tested with the GDO and didn't cause the interference.
What I still can't wrap my mind around is that the keyfob openers we have programmed work just fine with the lights on - it is just the Homelink button in the car that doesn't work. That doesn't make sense to me...
pioneer1
Well-known member
Called Prolighting, they said these lights are NOT compatible with T12 Ballast (well at least mine)and that's why they fried. Their website says "Compatible with MOST instant start T8 ballasts"
Lesson learned, I will ALWAYS bypass the ballast NO MATTER what from now on
They are however sending me new lights at shipping cost only. They where very easy to work with.
@Platonic Solid---Might want to add that to the description of these lights on page 1
Coloradical
Well-known member
If someone could spoon feed me their suggestions I’d greatly appreciate it. There’s so much info here that I got confused as too what is best for me. My space is 24x24x10 what would be a good light setup to buy?
OP
Platonic Solid
Well-known member
Added the following to post #1:Called Prolighting, they said these lights are NOT compatible with T12 Ballast (well at least mine)and that's why they fried. Their website says "Compatible with MOST instant start T8 ballasts"
Lesson learned, I will ALWAYS bypass the ballast NO MATTER what from now on
They are however sending me new lights at shipping cost only. They where very easy to work with.
@Platonic Solid---Might want to add that to the description of these lights on page 1
Here's a list of ballasts the universal lamps should work with (link). However, given that these lamps are universal, bypassing the ballast and direct wiring is your best, most reliable, most energy saving, highest lumen output option.
Merbesfield
Active member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2013
- Messages
- 44
I have the exact same size garage and was also I thinking the same thing. I am late to this party and trying to figure out all the info in this thread is very intemidating. I currently have 48” flouresent lights. From what I gathered, there are replacement LED bulbs that I can buy but I need to bypass my ballasts to avoid frying the LED's. Thanks for the help.