The Best Light Fixture Ever!

[sg1838]

First time poster - found this thread from a Google search a couple of months ago. After a bunch of reading and research, I finally ordered 2 of the TechBrite 5000K 48" 3 Lamp LED T8 Strip Fixtures from ProLighting after seeing them mentioned along with the 7% Garage Journal discount.

I was looking for something for my basement to replace some old fluorescent fixtures. The first fixture I had already taken down and replaced with a 4' WLB72BZCW1200DACT from Banner Engineering that I had on loan (I would post a link, but this is my first post, so the message board won't let me). I have 5 of Banner's 4' WLB92ZC1100PBQMB lights in my garage, and I love them. However, the WLB72 isn't the same build quality as the WLB92, and at only $100 less, I wasn't sure I could justify the cost.

Anyway, I used my Sper Scientific Lux meter to measure the output of the Banner WLB72 at a distance of 9', and then repeated that with the TechBright Light.

Banner Engineering WLB72
Published Lumen Output Rating - 6,800 Lumens
Measured Lux at 9' - 315 Lux
Cost - $299

TechBrite
Published Lumen Output Rating - 8,019 Lumens
Measured Lux at 9' - 300 Lux
Cost - $56

So, though I think the Lumen rating on these lights is overstated, and should be much closer to 6,500 Lumens, it's still great performance considering the price.

Next I repeated this test with one of my old fluorescent fixtures and the TechBrite, at a distance of approximately 5' from the light.

Old Fluorescent Fixture (old bulbs)
Measured Lux at 5' - 215 Lux

TechBrite
Measured Lux at 5' - 720 Lux

Obviously, the visual difference between these 2 lights is incredible, and I will most certainly be ordering 2 more of these lights to replace the last 2 fluorescent fixtures that I have in the basement.

The TechBrite lights aren't show pieces by any means, as for my garage I still much prefer my WLB92 lights from Banner. Unfortunately, the factory packaging isn't great on the TechBrite lights, so the pieces of the fixture still bang around in the box during transit, and in my case caused a few paint chips to be missing from the housing. Not a deal-breaker by any means, but nobody likes to receive their brand new item only to have it dinged up already. In addition, one of the bulbs had a cracked plastic housing at the end. My guess is that this was due to poor packaging from ProLighting. The bulb still worked though, so I was just careful to install it and then not touch it.

It would be nice if the ProLighting website was a little more descriptive. I wasn't aware that power cords weren't included. I understand why they aren't (a lot of people will hardwire these directly), but it just wasn't clear to me that power cords weren't included. At that point, I figured I would just use the power cords from my old fluorescent fixtures, but of course one of them wasn't removable. So, I had to make a special trip to Home Depot to get a power cord. Not a big deal, but if ProLighting would have had a power cord listed under the "recommended accessories" section, I would have then assumed that power cords weren't included, AND I would have spent more money with ProLighting.

Finally, this was my first attempt at installing a fixture like this, so it would have been nice if a LITTLE documentation had been included. I know there are precautions you have to make with regard to LED lamp installation, but I didn't know if they needed to be installed in a specific orientation or not. In the end, I took a guess and the lights worked. They wouldn't need to write a book, but just a few quick tips / tricks for installation would be nice.

Pros
- Inexpensive
- Great light output for cost

Cons
- Lumen output overexaggered
- Factory fixture packaging could be better
- ProLighting website could be more informative
- No documentation whatsoever

I know my list of "Cons" looks long, but these don't even come close to overcoming the huge benefits of the "Pros". I will be more than happy to recommend these lights to anyone looking for an inexpensive, bright LED light fixture for the garage or basement. If they're looking for a show piece though, I'm still going to recommend the WLB92 from Banner Engineering.

Thanks to Platonic for all of his contributions to this thread. It is much appreciated.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Thanks for the review sg1838 and welcome to the forum. I'm sure Prolighting would replace that cracked end tube. Prolighting used to provide GLL USA bulbs (which have identical specs to the GreenTek bulb in post 1), but stopped offering that bulb a while back. I'm not sure what brand bulb is being used now. Do your bulbs have a brand name and/or part number we can search? I'd ask for a picture of the lamp label, but as this is your first post you'd have to host it yourself.

I'm surprised at the high Banner Engineering WLB72 price tag. I'd expect much longer than an L70 of 50,000 hours for a $300 price tag.

 

[fred d]

fred d - To convert your six 2-lamp 8ft F96T12HO fixtures to 4-lamp LED you need:

6 8' 4-Lamp Strip Retrofit Kits $8 ea (link) = $48 - 7% GARAGEJOURNAL discount = $44.64 (plus shipping)

24 LED bulbs with frosted lens $7.75 ea (link) = $186 (free shipping)

Total = $230.64 / 6 = $38.44 per fixture.

If you want 1 stop shopping and don't mind spending a few extra $, then you can get the lamps from Prolighting also: 4000K or 5000K color.
8.99 ea = $215.76 - 7% GARAGEJOURNAL discount = $200.66 (plus shipping)

Total = $245.30 / 6 = $40.88 per fixture (plus shipping)

All above linked lamps are universal so lamp holders can be wired:
line on one end and neutral on the other end
or
single end: line on one pin and neutral on the other

This video shows the process (link) - they happen to be using a bulb that only accepts single end.

First off thank you for braking this down in easy to understand language.
The links really help to visualize and $200 is what it would cost for 2 replacement lamps, so that is a bargain

2 bulbs end to end the reason it is now a 4 lamp system
Is there a 6500k version
Trying to understand a bit better

 

[Platonic Solid]

I don't see any 6500K on Greenlightdepot site, only 6000K and that's with clear lens (which you really don't want). Hyperikon has frosted lens 6000K sold in 24 pack (link). Naturally you can have anything you want - for a price, or take your chances with Amazon Chinese mystery sellers. I see HD has a $20 6500K bulb (link) that claims 140,000 hour life. You're on your own with that search.

 

[fred d]

I don't see any 6500K on Greenlightdepot site, only 6000K and that's with clear lens (which you really don't want). Hyperikon has frosted lens 6000K sold in 24 pack (link). Naturally you can have anything you want - for a price, or take your chances with Amazon Chinese mystery sellers. I see HD has a $20 6500K bulb (link) that claims 140,000 hour life. You're on your own with that search.

Thanks for all the help, still trying to learn.
Why don’t I want the clear lens?
I kinda thought that would make it brighter
Not trying to be argumentative, nor questioning your knowledge
And definitely don’t want to buy something that won’t last
Thank you again for all your support. For me and all the others here

 

[BLDGMAN]

First post here, thanks for letting me in. I’m looking for advice in lighting my 45’ x 60 x 16’ Metal Building, the roof slope is 2:12, I have white vinyl backed insulation on the interior. Looking for layout options and fixture advice inside and out.

 

[Platonic Solid]

fred d - Clear lens means each LED is visible creating uncomfortable glare to your eyes and uneven distribution. Frosted lens evens out light distribution for a pleasant environment. Yes you sacrifice a few lumens, but its well worth it. See post 2013 in this thread.

I see I missed a comment you made:

I kinda thought that would make it brighter

No, CCT (correlated color temperature measured in degrees Kelvin) has nothing to do with brightness, only color of light.

 

[Platonic Solid]

BLDGMAN - See this post: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7444233#post7444233

 

[Earp69]

Platonic do you ever mess with the corn cob leds much? A friend has them in his shop and they seem to be nice but I think they need a mild reflector to shine the light down more instead of horizontal. My barn is going up tomorrow, 36x40x14 and I'm trying to figure out what I should go with. It will be an auto/hobby work shop. White tin ceiling and walls

 

[Platonic Solid]

Platonic do you ever mess with the corn cob leds much? A friend has them in his shop and they seem to be nice but I think they need a mild reflector to shine the light down more instead of horizontal. My barn is going up tomorrow, 36x40x14 and I'm trying to figure out what I should go with. It will be an auto/hobby work shop. White tin ceiling and walls

That's exactly why I don't use them. They'd be great if you wanted lots of light on your walls. Not so much if you want light at 30" workplane. I see no benefit to using vertically mounted LEDs and then trying to reflect them down, when there are plenty of options where LEDs are oriented properly towards the ground. On a lumens per dollar basis, they're not cheaper. On a useful lumens per dollar basis they're terrible.

This 120W 16,120 Lumen fixture (link) is hard to beat.
36x40x14
12 fixtures 3x4 = 103fc @ 30" workplane
9 (3x3) = 78fc ...

 

[Earp69]

Great thanks for the quick reply.

 

[sg1838]

Thanks for the review sg1838 and welcome to the forum. I'm sure Prolighting would replace that cracked end tube. Prolighting used to provide GLL USA bulbs (which have identical specs to the GreenTek bulb in post 1), but stopped offering that bulb a while back. I'm not sure what brand bulb is being used now. Do your bulbs have a brand name and/or part number we can search? I'd ask for a picture of the lamp label, but as this is your first post you'd have to host it yourself.

I'm surprised at the high Banner Engineering WLB72 price tag. I'd expect much longer than an L70 of 50,000 hours for a $300 price tag.

There isn't a manufacturer on the bulb, just a model:
EDI-APT8-4F16-AB 5000K

A Google search didn't turn up much other than there are a bunch of suppliers out there for this bulb. But, I have a feeling you'll know by the model number.

If ProLighting wants to reach out to me to replace the bulb, fine. If not, I'm not going to fret over it too much unless one of the next batch that I order is also broken.

And I'm right there with you on the Banner WLB72.

 

[sg1838]

There isn't a manufacturer on the bulb, just a model:
EDI-APT8-4F16-AB 5000K

A Google search didn't turn up much other than there are a bunch of suppliers out there for this bulb. But, I have a feeling you'll know by the model number.

If ProLighting wants to reach out to me to replace the bulb, fine. If not, I'm not going to fret over it too much unless one of the next batch that I order is also broken.

And I'm right there with you on the Banner WLB72.

Actually, I'm guessing EDI is the manufacturer!

edipai.com/4-ft-led-t8-tube-15w-type-ab-p00097p1.html

Again, sorry I couldn't post the actual link. Looking at the specs, this makes sense. Each bulb is supposedly rated at 2,340 Lumens. In my above post, from my Lux measurement I estimated that 3 lights were putting out approximately 6,500 Lumens. So, the specs seem about right.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Interesting sg1838. So the manufacturer claims lower lumen output than their DLC listing. see https://www.designlights.org/search/?search=EDI-APT8-4F16-AB. Unable to find any website for EDI ELECTRONICS LIMITED.

 

[Earp69]

Platonic I like the high bay 1x2 foot light you posted for me but it doesn't seem I'm able to replace the bulbs which I'd like to have the ability to do, I saw a few pages back you did a layout for madspeed and his ceiling is 12 foot, you suggested the lights in post number 1. I would like to use those lights if possible because of the serviceability. But I fear you think they won't shine down far enough being my shop is 14 ft. My overall building size is 36x40,but 16x36 of it will be mezzanine so right now all I'm worried of lighting is the 36x24x14 section. Do you mind posting an example of how I should layout the lights used in page one if I'm able to use those, thanks in advance

 

[Platonic Solid]

wyattrose69 - See post 930 (link)

 

[Stefan S]

Hi all,

1000 bulbs is recommending this fixture from TCP to me. Is it ok or junk? I originally asked for the fixture from the first page but they are quoting this one.

Project:
24x24 garage 13 fixtures 9’ceilings painted white

Link to site
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/212068/TCP-10403.html

Link to spec
https://a89b8e4143ca50438f09-7c1706.../original/tcp-88lt800044-specs.pdf?1562612710

 

[Platonic Solid]

Stefan S - No comment on build quality. Looks like a typical stamped thin metal strip light housing. Not likely as rugged as the Maxlite, but looks like it will serve the purpose.

 

[Angelfire]

So I'm getting my courage up to plonk down the cash to purchase LED tubes for my garages (house and detached). All told, I need 80 4ft tubes. I intend to go with the ones referenced on Post 1 (Namely: https://greenlightdepot.com/collect...d-linear-versa-tube-ul-dlc?variant=3706824580). Now, is there any advice as to how many "extra" I should purchase to compensate for anything that dies out of warranty? I always hated having to replace a fluorescent tube because the new never matched the old so you ended up with an oddball tube. With a 5 year warranty, I expect most failures should occur during this time but just trying to hedge against any failures after that. Thoughts?
Cheers.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Angelfire - If their website is correct that they come standard 30/Box (might want to confirm that), then I'd order 90 so there isn't any repacking involved = least chance of shipping damage.

 

[Stefan S]

Stefan S - No comment on build quality. Looks like a typical stamped thin metal strip light housing. Not likely as rugged as the Maxlite, but looks like it will serve the purpose.

they told me PLT TXFC232X1 (the alternative from page 1) Is discontinued which is what I originally asked for. I’ll just go with the tcp.

Thank you!

 

[TXBDan]

I'm driving myself insane trying to choose 4ft twin-tube LED ready fixtures and compatible T8 LED tubes. Some of the earlier recommendations in this thread and others for both fixtures and bulbs are discontinued.

What's the latest recommendation? It's for a basement workshop/laundry with low 7ft ceilings. I'm thinking 5000K color.

Thank you!

 

[Stefan S]

they told me PLT TXFC232X1 (the alternative from page 1) Is discontinued which is what I originally asked for. I’ll just go with the tcp.

Thank you!

After a surprise 50 swing in shipping costs I went with the max lite and led bulbs from page 1.

Overall I am very impressed with the quality of both - thanks everyone!

 

[Platonic Solid]

Looks great Stefan S! Yeah, you gotta watch the shipping and handling fees real close. I thought with you and 1000bulbs both being in Texas shipping would be cheap - or maybe you could pick them up.

LEDLightingWholesaleinc (link) offers the Maxlite housing with or without decent bulbs also.
They charge $16.31 per Maxlite housing
+ $2.00 Overweight Package Shipping Fee per housing (for something that weighs practically nothing)
Thus actual Maxlite housing price = $18.31
Add 2 LED 18W 2520 Lm tubes ($13.50) from the drop-down menu and total 2-lamp striplight cost = $31.81 (+ shipping)

 

[Stefan S]

Looks great Stefan S! Yeah, you gotta watch the shipping and handling fees real close. I thought with you and 1000bulbs both being in Texas shipping would be cheap - or maybe you could pick them up

Thanks! It’s pretty awesome and I’m thrilled thus far. 1000 bulbs Is about 3 hours away and wanted over 80 for shipping.

 

[number9]

I've got new house construction and it's time to get my light order put together.

I'm putting 4' dual tube fixtures in my basement and garage. Both with 8'6" ceiling height.

I plan to go with the Max Lite fixtures on page 1 of this thread. While looking at LED tubes, I see the Greentek tubes have a 120* beam angle. I ran across these TCP tubes that list 300* beam angle.

I really like how fluorescent tubes in my current garage throw light everywhere, and I'm a little concerned (maybe unfounded? ) that 120* beam angle may result in darker walls / corners and/or darker spots between the fixtures.

Anyone have any experience with the TCP tubes linked, or any tubes with beam angle over 120* ?

 

[Platonic Solid]

number9 - Most LEDs have 120° beam angle. The diffused lens spreads that out some. I see little point to anything over 200° for a strip light. I suspect the difference between the 2 lamps isn't the LED beam spread, but where the LEDs are located within the bulb. The GreenTek LED array is at the center of the bulb with the driver in the aluminum extrusion behind it. The TCP LED array is at the back of the bulb with the driver built into the plastic end caps. I doubt there's any significant difference in the actual light distribution between the two lamps, but without IES files for comparison it's impossible to simulate. The TCP lamp will have a shorter luminous opening due to the space taken up by the driver built into the ends.

 

[rgfllamas]

Is it really as easy as it seems?

My workshop was built 20 years ago and I installed 30 4 foot, dual bulb, t12 shop lights from the big box store. As the years have passed I have fewer and fewer working lights.

Can I buy the T8 replacement bulbs from greenlight depot, bypass the ballasts in my old fixtures and have nice light once again in my shop? I've read the thread but I'm hesitant to order 60 bulbs until I'm certain I have this right.

Thanks

 

[mmavet]

Platonic
Bees lighting ran out of the 15.96 strip light fixtures after my first order. (https://www.beeslighting.com/diva-light-led-ready-fixture/p/ST48232-LED) , waited a couple weeks for the next shipment. When I was able to order they raised the price to 17.99. I emailed but was told that was the best they could do because of the new tariffs. After checking with 1000 bulbs and getting their shipping charges I went back to Bees and just order the same lights I started with. Both orders from Bees were free shipping. Not 100% happy, but I have plenty of light in the garage now ( 29- 4' double bulb fixtures). I still have the loft to do in the spring or when I get the sheetrock hung, so I'm thinking I'll just stick to Bees for the next (smaller) order as of now.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Is it really as easy as it seems?

My workshop was built 20 years ago and I installed 30 4 foot, dual bulb, t12 shop lights from the big box store. As the years have passed I have fewer and fewer working lights.

Can I buy the T8 replacement bulbs from greenlight depot, bypass the ballasts in my old fixtures and have nice light once again in my shop? I've read the thread but I'm hesitant to order 60 bulbs until I'm certain I have this right.

Thanks

Yes, it really is that simple.

 

[number9]

Skimming thru the thread, I see the st48232 fixture was removed in 2017. Have folks had better luck with them since then? With Bee's pricing, I could keep a little more green in my pocket by going with them over the Max Lite, tho I'd be ok with spending a little more if it pays off in the long run.

 

[Platonic Solid]

number9 - We're only talking about $1.21 per housing difference between:
DivaLight ST48232-LED $17.99 (free shipping over $99)
Maxlite LSS2XT8USE4803 $19.22 (free shipping over $95)

Not sure what those dimples are for on the end of the DivaLight - other than to be an annoyance when continuously row mounting. Bees Lighting DivaLight housing was removed originally due to some $5 per housing mystery fee they were adding at checkout - which they have apparently since removed. The housing is likely fine - no first hand experience with it.

 

[RSET]

I made two orders from ShineRetrofits for the Maxlite fixtures. Talked to the sales guy and negotiated a price of $18 per light for 13. They are mounted flush to the ten foot OSB ceiling.

They matched the price again yesterday for another 13 lights to finish my 21x36 shop. I have the 13 installed with the Greentek Versa8 5k bulbs and half of the shop is now very well lit. No tax and free FedEx shipping to Texas.

I wired them 14 gauge pigtailed and notice no difference in light output from the first light in the string to the last. Using two 15 amp circuits for all 26 lights (52 bulbs).

 

[Platonic Solid]

RSET - Thanks for the price negotiating tip.

52 Bulbs x 18W = 936W / 120V = 7.8A. Thus you only need one 15A circuit for all lights.

 

[RSET]

Half of the shop is for woodworking and the rest for occasional use. Using two circuits allows me to burn half the juice. Of course I'll turn them all on occasionally to immerse myself in the light.

I was wrestling with lighting options that I could flush mount when I found your thread.

Thank you!

 

[Platonic Solid]

RSET - You can have multiple switched zones on a single breaker. You don't need to take up two 15A breakers to have 2 switched zones.

 

[RSET]

Platonic Solid - I've been fortunate to this point not make a stupid mistake and shock myself. I think I'll just stick to what I've prepared. I'm about to wire a 220V 20 amp double pole breaker for a mini split - wish me luck.

 

[wescat]

I am rewiring some 4' fluorescent fixtures for use with 4' LED tubes. As per my research:

If I remove the ballasts, and rewire each fixture with non shunted tombstones such that each tombstone has 1 hot and 1 neutral, and each fixture side has 1 hot and 1 neutral, I can then safely use either single ended or opposing ended tubes, and I do not have to be end specific as to how I insert the tube into the fixture.

Is this correct?

 

[Platonic Solid]

I am rewiring some 4' fluorescent fixtures for use with 4' LED tubes. As per my research:

If I remove the ballasts, and rewire each fixture with non shunted tombstones such that each tombstone has 1 hot and 1 neutral, and each fixture side has 1 hot and 1 neutral, I can then safely use either single ended or opposing ended tubes, and I do not have to be end specific as to how I insert the tube into the fixture.

Is this correct?

You cannot use single end lamps with that setup. Double end or Universal (double/single/bypass/ballast compatible).

 

[wescat]

I am rewiring some 4' fluorescent fixtures for use with 4' LED tubes. As per my research:

If I remove the ballasts, and rewire each fixture with non shunted tombstones such that each tombstone has 1 hot and 1 neutral, and each fixture side has 1 hot and 1 neutral, I can then safely use either single ended or opposing ended tubes, and I do not have to be end specific as to how I insert the tube into the fixture.

Is this correct?

You cannot use single end lamps with that setup. Double end or Universal (double/single/bypass/ballast compatible).

Therefore, there is not a wiring scheme that will allow installation of single end and double end lamps in the same fixture ?