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mray312

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Platonic Solid - Thank you for the suggestion. That's exactly what I need!

Unfortunately, I spent the morning searching the internet and I couldn't locate a rotating tube in a ballast bypass. double end, high lumen, 5000K configuration.

Could I get away with a high beam angle, frosted tube? Maybe either of these?

1. TCP-10305 tube - spec sheet claims Beam Angle: 300, Field Angle: not listed
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/211088/TCP-10305.html

OR

2. TCP LPT825B250K tube - spec sheet claims Beam Angle: 190, Field Angle: 300
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/216624/TCP-10481.html

If my current fixtures won't cooperate -- no big deal. My fluorescent bulbs give me about 77 foot candles at the brightest spot in the garage. But I was hoping that the right LEDs would brighten the place up a little.
 
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Platonic Solid

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mray312

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Platonic Solid - Strange about the lack of rotating end frosted tube LEDs. I believe, as you pointed out, that there has to be a ton of old fluorescent fixtures that have angled tombstones in use.

Those magnetic LED tube and driver retrofit kits are pretty cool. I had no idea they existed. They would definitely work to solve the problem my fixture presents. Time for me to consider if it's cost effective to to retrofit.

Thanks for bulb suggestions and advice.
 
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Platonic Solid

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mray312 - When I posted the magnetic bulb links they were available. Now amazon says unavailable. I'd contact Hyperikon and see if they will have frosted rotating end bulbs available in the near future.
 

mray312

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Platonic Solid - I think I'll contact Hyperikon and see about frosted rotating bulbs. That appeals to me more than leaving the fluorescent ballast. Thanks!
 
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Platonic Solid

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Platonic Solid - I think I'll contact Hyperikon and see about frosted rotating bulbs. That appeals to me more than leaving the fluorescent ballast. Thanks!
I asked them and they said: "At this moment there are no plans to bring in frosted covered rotatable tubes."
 

mray312

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Platonic - You're impressive! It's unfortunate that they have no plans for a frosted rotatable bulb. The market must just not be there they way I guessed it was.

I think my cheapest option is to roll the dice on a standard G13 base/high beam angle/frosted LED tube retrofit OR just leave my fluorescent tubes and live with it.

I wish the big box stores had more of a LED retrofit selection. I would have tested a few bulbs. Run with what worked and returned what didn't. But ordering online you want to get it right on the first try or face being stuck with bulbs that disappoint or that have to go back at the expense of return shipping.

As they say - "life is tough in the suburbs!" :)
 
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Platonic Solid

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As odd as this will sound, you could remove the lamp holder brackets and stick the sockets to the end housing with thin 3M VHB tape with the correct orientation.
 

mray312

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Platonic - That is a great work around. I'm having one of those why didn't I think of that moments. :lol_hitti

If I go that direction any thoughts on what lumen bulb I should consider?

I tried to ansewr my own question by using the Visual Photometric Tool. I selected Lithonia's SB232 fixture, set footcandles to 100, and set wokplane to 30" per your directions in post #931. I then manipulated the "Lumens Per Lamp" until I got to 95FC. The result was 3200 lumen per lamp (Lamp quantity = 2). I am assuming the program will adjust for the SB232 IES numbers - but I may be wrong. (The results are linked in the PDFs.)

A 3200 lumen LED would put each fixture at 6400 lumen which sounded to me like an awful lot for your standard attached 20 x 20 x 9.5. But the lumens might not be off considering the light loss from the SB232 wrap.

Thanks for taking the time to help me through this project.
 

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Platonic Solid

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mray312 - You are doing it right. Though you might have a hard time finding 3200 Lumen retrofit tubes. You can safely assume 10% lumen loss through the wrapped fixture lens.

Edit: Using a fluorescent fixture IES to emulate an LED fixture isn't ideal, but the end result is about the same. Using the default preloaded fixture from post #930 (link) I get 87fc @ 30" workplane with 5347 Lm fixture output. Add 10% to make up for wrapped fixture lens loss and 5882 Lm fixture output will yield 87 fc @ workplane. Even if you just go for 2500 Lm lamps I'm sure you'll notice a significant improvement.
 
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SkeeterZX200

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FarmerRick

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Does anyone have experience with these bulbs?
tools.woot.com/offers/elighting-13-5w-t8-led-glass-tube-20-pk?ref=w_cnt_gw_zlm_nd2_3

eLighting 521001 13.5W T8 LED Tube, Glass, Bypass, 1,800 lumens, Cool White 4000K, DLC4, 20-pack

I would prefer 5000k but it seems like a decent deal for under $5 each.

They would be going in a 30x40 shop with 11 ft. ceilings. It has (8) 4 lamp 48" trofers that I will be deleting the ballasts in.
 
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Platonic Solid

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FarmerRick - They may be cheaper here: https://www.viribright.com/product-category/tube-light-bulbs/ (depending on shipping charge)

Unable to verify DLC listing claim.

Image on site you linked to states: "Single Live end shunted socket design". This is incorrect - should state "Single Live end non-shunted socket design".

I'm not a fan of glass tube LED retrofits, but it's not a deal breaker for the right price.
 

FarmerRick

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FarmerRick - They may be cheaper here: viribright.com/product-category/tube-light-bulbs/ (depending on shipping charge)

Unable to verify DLC listing claim.

Image on site you linked to states: "Single Live end shunted socket design". This is incorrect - should state "Single Live end non-shunted socket design".

I'm not a fan of glass tube LED retrofits, but it's not a deal breaker for the right price.


Thanks for your link. How do you think those compare to the ones in your original post (Greeentek and Wen)? I'm thinking the 1800 lumens on the one I posted are just too low per watt and per dollar.
 
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Platonic Solid

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FarmerRick - They win the lumens/$ game but that's little consolation when what you really need is 15 fixtures with 10,700 lumen output per 4-lamp fixture if you want to hit 93fc @ 30" workplane.
 

HotRodBoater

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Holy **** this thread is UGE and confusing!

I have a 40x90 metal building with 40x60 of it being fully enclosed, while 40x30 is a skirted carport. 18ft sidewalls and probably a 20-21ft peak with white insulation. The enclosed portion of the building has 2) e39 mogul fixtures in the peak, with 6) e26 fixtures. 3) spaced evenly down each side. There are 2) more of the e26 fixtures under the carport area. These were metal halide, high bay style fixtures. Prior to finding this thread, I converted 6) of the fixtures (2 e39's and 4 e26's) by bypassing the ballasts and installing corn cob style led bulbs. I would guess I am over $300 in to converting. I have a scissor lift for a limited time and have some wiring projects as well as pex air lines to run while I have it. My question is, should I scrap the corn cob idea and go with the 4ft fixtures?
 
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HotRodBoater

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I should have mentioned details about the corn cob bulbs I have already installed.

The 2 large ones in the center are very bright 250W LED Corn Bulb Light 36000Lm 5000K Daylight 1000W Metal Halide Replacement E39 Mogul Base.
The 4 smaller e26 I have are Keystone 27 Watt LED Lamp delivers 3,830 lumens of daylight white 5000K light and is designed to replace a 100 Watt metal halide.

To continue on with the corn cob style, I would need 4) more bulbs at a little over $50ea

I should note that I also have 2) additional e39 bulbs. They are Keystone 100 watt 14,100lm 5000k but no e39 fixtures for them
 
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Platonic Solid

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HotRodBoater - Corncob bulbs are a very inefficient design to provide light at work plane. The light is primarily projecting out the sides. Then you have to rely on reflectors to push it down. If you're not using reflectors, you're doing a great job of illuminating the walls at 18' elevation.

How much light you want/need depends what you’re using the space for. 12 26000 Lumen or 15 22000 Lumen linear highbays will net in the area of 90-100 fc @ 30” work plane. I wouldn’t use less than 12 fixtures (3x4) at any output in a 40x60x19 space. 15 fixtures (3x5) yields more even illumination and fewer shadows.
 

10YEARPLAN

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Platonic, is this a possible replacement for the maxlite fixture and bulbs on page one? Or should I stick with T8 strips and retrofit bulbs that I know fit my application?

MaxLite 48" 40 Watt LED Shop Light - 5000K - 4,890 Lumens - 120
SKU: SL-48421-50
 
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Platonic Solid

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10YEARPLAN - The Maxlite SL-48421-50 is a standard low budget integrated plug-in linkable shop light. It's intended use is workbench lighting, but it can work as general lighting for ~8' ceiling heights. Can often be found on sale at less than $15 ea. Esthetically it's a less permanent/finished look than the retrofit strip lights due to the corded plug. The jury is still out on the reliability and longevity of these style fixtures. The Maxlite is properly UL listed and has reasonable efficiency.

Depending on the bulbs purchased, the 4ft retrofit strip lights can provide higher lumen output. Hard to judge which is more cost effective as the shop lights vary in price from $10 to $30. It's certainly easier to replace an LED bulb than replace a fixture - but let's face it - neither is exactly difficult. Future replacement takes me back to esthetics: Replacing a 4ft retrofit bulb makes little difference, but odds of finding the same shop light are much less likely.

The 3rd, most initially expensive and esthically most appealing option is an integrated wrap fixture - not to overlook the edge lit flat panel option.
 
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10YEARPLAN

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Platonic,
Thank you. I will buy the t8 strips and bulbs again. I purchased 33 of the maxlite fixtures for the other garage a few years ago. Now both garages will match and replacement parts will be easy (if ever needed).

I should have checked the lumens/watt on the low budget fixture before I considered it.

Thanks again
 
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Platonic Solid

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I don't see a published ballast compatibility list for the GE bulb, thus you'd have to call them to confirm compatibility with your ballast 800-435-4448.
 
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Platonic Solid

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wfopete - If you purchase LED retrofit bypass bulbs you don't have to worry about ballast compatibility since the ballast is cut out and power is routed directly to the lamp holders.
 

snowdust2

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Feb 25, 2018
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Finally getting around to my lighting now that temps are warming up. I purchased one of the recommended light fixtures from prolighting to get exact dimensions and lay things out: https://www.prolighting.com/t443ssubcxx00p0-18w5k.html

They shipped quick and seem great to work with. (and we get 7% off with the garagejournal promo code) The light looks like good quality as well. I have a bunch more to order, but wanted to share my experience.
 
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wfopete

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wfopete - If you purchase LED retrofit bypass bulbs you don't have to worry about ballast compatibility since the ballast is cut out and power is routed directly to the lamp holders.

Well the plot thickens a bit. After the one side failed I thought I swap a one bulb for another to confirm if it was a bulb or ballast issue. I made the swap and there was no change; one side was still completely out. I figured I had a dead ballast for that side. Then this morning I turned on the light and both sides illuminated just like nothing ever happened.

So to help educate me I have some questions:

If I understand correctly an LED fixture can have a ballast in the fixture, the LED bulb or both?

You need to match the correct LED bulb with the correct fixture and or ballast?

I plan to pull the entire fixture down this weekend for a closer look at what I'm playing with and will report back with what I find.
 
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MasterOD

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Thanks Platonic for the valuable info in this thread. I’m looking to light a 25x25 residential garage with 8’ ceilings for storage, wrenching, and general use (no established working area). I’ve gathered that 15-18 strip lights in a proper configuration (per layout thread) is the recommended solution. I’m looking for a simpler install solution for now… starting with replacement of 3 existing strip lights.

I love super bright, but annoyed by glare. Couple questions:

1) The PLT-90097 high bay you linked elsewhere is attractive for cheap/easy lumens. Would it be appropriate for 8' ceilings and is fewer/brighter fixtures a terrible idea?

2) If I do the 4ft strips reco'd in OP - do I need the wrap housing version for 8' ceiling? I was looking at the MaxLite 3 tube version LSU3XT8USE4806
 
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Platonic Solid

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MasterOD - The PLT-90097 (4000K) PLT-90098 (5000K) is 17,700 lumens which works well for ~16' ceilings. Way too much for 8'. Yes, fewer/brighter fixtures is a very bad idea, especially for lower ceilings. As long as you don't buy glass envelope retrofit bulbs, then you don't need a wrap. standard 4ft 2-lamp retrofit fixtures are ideal for your space.
 
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Murrdog

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Building a 40 wide (3-10' door side) x 36' deep, 10' sidewalls but with scissor truss' inside peak at 16'-8". Would a layout of 3 rows of 5 be overkill? I would like great lighting since I plan to detailing type work. also is 5k the best for natural lighting? Thanks you all you guys do helping everyone!

ITEM DESCRIPTION
EACH
QTY
TOTAL
MaxLite Lamp Ready Linear Utility Strip, 4 Foot, 2 Tube
MaxLite Lamp Ready Linear Utility Strip, 4 Foot, 2 Tube
[+] View list of options I selected
$16.31

15
$244.65

James Magic T8 Tube, 4 Foot, 18 Watt, Ballast Compatible and Bypass ****CASE OF 30 TUBES****
Magic T8 Tube, 4 Foot, 18 Watt, Ballast Compatible and Bypass ****CASE OF 30 TUBES****
[+] View list of options I selected
$202.50

1
$202.50
 
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Platonic Solid

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Murrdog - I'm sure that's no where near enough to hit the recommended 93fc at 30" work plane for wrenching. No quick simple answers for vaulted ceilings. Space needs to be modeled in Dialux Evo to get it right.
 

Murrdog

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Murrdog - I'm sure that's no where near enough to hit the recommended 93fc at 30" work plane for wrenching. No quick simple answers for vaulted ceilings. Space needs to be modeled in Dialux Evo to get it right.

Okay, would you have any recommendations on how to get it "modeled". would I need 3 bulb units? or add additional fixtures? Man, I thought that it would be plenty lol.
 
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