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The Best Paintbrush

Bull

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Dec 12, 2005
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Have any of you found a particularly good paintbrush? I'm not concerned with the finest European hog hairs or any such nonsense as that. I am concerned with the handles. I have spent 16 hours painting in the last two days. My house is a Craftsman bungalow style, so the top has rough, weathered cedar shakes and the bottom is cedar clap, also quite textured with age. By the end of each day, my hand feels and looks like a claw. I am having to grip and work the brush with a lot of pressure to get paint into all the nooks and crannies, and it *****.

Over the years, I've used cheap disposable brushes and rather pricey ones, and I've yet to find a great handle. Have you?
 
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autopts71045

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Apr 19, 2010
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That's an excellent question. I may be wrong but the design of that handle has never evolved since the paint brush was invented, probably from a cut broom and handle. Its not like your finishing fine trim, but if your on a ladder, what could give you as much control to get up under the edge of those boards? I don't know. I guess after you get done painting, you will have to do do hand exercises opening and closing your hand. Do them up in the air as your driving to the store.
 

cglasgow

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Jun 12, 2010
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I was taught to hold a paintbrush like this:
Purdy_Paint_Brush_1.jpg


(not my image, found here:http://www.homeadditionplus.com/product-reviews-info/Purdy_Paint_Brush_Review.htm)

It just so happens that the picture show a Purdy brush, which is my preferred brush when I can't avoid painting!
 
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Bull

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That's an excellent question. I may be wrong but the design of that handle has never evolved since the paint brush was invented, probably from a cut broom and handle. Its not like your finishing fine trim, but if your on a ladder, what could give you as much control to get up under the edge of those boards? I don't know. I guess after you get done painting, you will have to do do hand exercises opening and closing your hand. Do them up in the air as your driving to the store.

Exactly, we've had companies add all sorts of ergonomic contours and bulk and padding to screwdriver handles, but paintbrushes are ignored. The one I'm using (I think it's an Enza or something like that) has a plastic handle with some minor rubber padding. It still hurts after hours and hours.

I was taught to hold a paintbrush like this:
Purdy_Paint_Brush_1.jpg


(not my image, found here:http://www.homeadditionplus.com/product-reviews-info/Purdy_Paint_Brush_Review.htm)

It just so happens that the picture show a Purdy brush, which is my preferred brush when I can't avoid painting!

Yeah, see, painting rough old siding isn't going to work if you are holding it like that. That's going to give you blisters and a claw hand right quick. You can see in the pic he's doing silky-smooth finish painting on some nice shutters. Light and fluffy work, no pressure needed!

Rent an airless sprayer.

Naw. Too much hassle. This project will take days, so I'd have to rent it for a while. Then, I'd have to mask stuff off that I don't want painted. Then, with those things, they tell you to work the paint into crevices and grooves and whatnot with a brush anyway, so I'm going through both motions.
 

scott37300

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Naw. Too much hassle. This project will take days, so I'd have to rent it for a while. Then, I'd have to mask stuff off that I don't want painted. Then, with those things, they tell you to work the paint into crevices and grooves and whatnot with a brush anyway, so I'm going through both motions.

That was my attitude till I needed to prime and paint fresh drywall in the whole basement. I did a lot of research and ended up buying a nice titan sprayer. Yes you have to spend a bunch of time taping off everything but the painting then goes so quick. I have used it many times since and it has more than paid for itself and have no regrets buying one. I have a couple of paint shields to run along things like soffits and edges.

Good quality paint also makes a big difference. I used to buy all my paint from HD or other box stores but after hearing so much about the quality of paint I tried some from sherwin williams and have never gone back. They also have pretty knowledgable people to help you out.
 
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Bull

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Have you used it on the exterior of your home? What kind of siding do you have? What condition is it in? Do you have to work the paint into crevices/crannies with a brush after the sprayer lays it down?

I have 25% of my house left to paint after I finish the side I am working on now. Wont get to that until next summer. I also have a new barn with rough pine siding to paint, and an old barn to paint at some point, too.

I hate painting.

I do still want to know if anyone has found a brush with a terrific handle.

That was my attitude till I needed to prime and paint fresh drywall in the whole basement. I did a lot of research and ended up buying a nice titan sprayer. Yes you have to spend a bunch of time taping off everything but the painting then goes so quick. I have used it many times since and it has more than paid for itself and have no regrets buying one. I have a couple of paint shields to run along things like soffits and edges.

Good quality paint also makes a big difference. I used to buy all my paint from HD or other box stores but after hearing so much about the quality of paint I tried some from sherwin williams and have never gone back. They also have pretty knowledgable people to help you out.
 

wyndycity

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Dec 28, 2008
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286
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Chicago
I saw an older gentleman using a brush similar to this recently:http://www.therightbrush.com/

It might have even been the exact same one. I haven't used it myself so I can't vouch for its ergonomics or quality. But it sure looks like it would be more comfy than the average brush. The only downside right off the bat is that it's only in size 2.5".
 
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Bull

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I saw an older gentleman using a brush similar to this recently:http://www.therightbrush.com/

It might have even been the exact same one. I haven't used it myself so I can't vouch for it's ergonomics or quality but it sure looks like it would be more comfy than the average brush. The only downside right off the bat is that it's only in size 2.5".

THAT looks like it would be the ticket, if they offered one with stiff bristles and wider!
 

jvitez

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Nov 30, 2009
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Big Sky Country, Canada
Wear gloves! Seriously.

I painted houses between university years. The secret to less "claw hand" was to buy a nice pair of properly fitting full leather work gloves. It cushions your hand, forms to the curve of your fingers after break in, and stays grippy even when well used with dried paint crusted on. I've bought some recently at Home Depot. They're full leather, yellow beige, not leather/fabric. Buy the correct size for your hand. If the glove is too big, your hand will slip inside and chafe worse.

So firstly buy leather gloves. Secondly, it sounds like you need a beavertail handle, not a rat tail or taper handle for what you're doing. You can get a better grip, and it's bigger and flatter so it rests in your hand far better. Taper handles for fine work, beaver tail handles for big/rough work. I've got a 4" wall brush I've actually used instead of a roller, and it has a nice beaver tail handle. Works perfectly.
 

newchris

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May 3, 2010
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CT
purdy makes good brushes, i just got a krebs airless sprayer for free the other day haha
 

rockchucker

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Mar 27, 2010
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Seattle WA
I only own Purdy Brushes.

http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/brushes/series/xl


I have all of the line of the XL Glide and the XL Dale except for the 5" and 6" ones. No real need I can see. Hell the 3" is just fine for cutting in to Roll a room. You might want to try the XL Moose or the XL Cub. Larger Handle that you can "gorilla fist" instead of holding it like a wuss! Just something my Dad used to say...lol I normally hold the brush like a wuss for painting trim or detail work but if I am out touching up a Fence or slapping on some Stain to rough wood I am gorilla ******* it all of the way.


Seriously try a bigger handle with some girth so you can hang on to it. Another thing to try is go to your local Sports store and get some Tennis Racket Tape. Wrap the Handle of the Brush and you won't have to hold it as hard. Less Effort = less "CLAW".
 
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georgiadave

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Marietta, Georgia
Try ebay for Purdey brushes. I have gotten them for 25% of retail. The seconds are just fine if that is what is available. Get 4-6 inch ones. On the rough siding, You can roll the paint and then brush it in. Much superior to spraying. Rather than cleaning every day, wrap the brushor roller in plastic or put it in a big baggie and keep it in the freezer.
 

dodgepolara500

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San Jose, CA.
Buy the best (like a Purdy) and it will go on easier and you will spend less time painting :) If you can, using a sprayer would be easier on the shakes, but there is the work involved in masking (a pain if there is a second story).
 

Stuart in MN

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My house and garage both have cedar shingle siding. What's worked best for me is one of those Wagner power painters - use it to get the paint onto the surface quickly, then brush it out with a brush. Yes, a power painter is a kind of a crude device, but it does a good job of delivering a lot of paint to the surface, and it gets into the cracks and crevices.

I'll do some masking around trim, but for the majority of it I just use a piece of cardboard with a straight edge on it. Hold it up along the edge of a window frame (or whatever), spray a section, then move on. You may have to replace the cardboard every so often as it gets soaked up with paint, but if you're careful you don't overspray onto it all that much.

For the brush, you don't want the same kind of fine hair brush you'd use for smooth surfaces - they'll wear out in no time. They sell a coarser, stronger brush that's made for that kind of surface. I agree that Purdy is a good brand.
 

mixxmstrmike

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I did, what I would call, a "major" restoration on my current house about 10 years ago. I bought nothing but Purdy brushes. I sprayed the exterior, rolled the interiors and used the Purdys for trim work.

I used 3" Purdys to paint fiber cement siding. Worked like a champ. To this day, I haven't lost any of the paint brushes.

If you can, post up a picture of what you have to paint? I'm sure we can all chime in on what may work best for you.

-Mike
 

jeepnut24

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Aug 23, 2006
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Morrison CO
2" Purdy chisel tip is my favorite brush... With a paint brush rake to keep them good and clean.

I just recently picked up an airless sprayer from some cabinet work.
 
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Bull

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My house and garage both have cedar shingle siding. What's worked best for me is one of those Wagner power painters - use it to get the paint onto the surface quickly, then brush it out with a brush. Yes, a power painter is a kind of a crude device, but it does a good job of delivering a lot of paint to the surface, and it gets into the cracks and crevices.

I'm surprised about the Wagner, especially about it getting into the cracks and crevices. I figured it was just a bogus machine. Aren't they pretty cheap? What model do you have? How much paint do you "lose" to overspray and whatnot? The stuff I am using is $130 for a little less than a gallon; I don't want to be losing 15% of it to bouncing off the surface and hitting the wind.

If you can, post up a picture of what you have to paint? I'm sure we can all chime in on what may work best for you.

Hi Mike. My house is kind of old and scrubby looking. Not sure I want to share that with the world!

2" Purdy chisel tip is my favorite brush... With a paint brush rake to keep them good and clean.

Paint rake, huh? Never heard of such a thing. Sounds like something I might want, though.
 

hammlm

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Jun 21, 2005
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SE PA
After I found the brush rake, I've never looked back and haven't thrown out a brush (except the ones my wife refuses to clean).

Now, I have poked my fingers countless times and drawn blood, so beware.

Also -- I have to ask -- what the heck are you using that is $130 a gallon!??!?!
 

mixxmstrmike

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Bull... have you thought about rolling the paint with a thick napped 4" roller? The 4" width can give you plenty of control, albeit a little tedious BUT you can always go back with an angled brush for "touch ups."

I too am a little curious at what you're painting with at $130/gallon!:headscrat

-Mike
 

BigRed390

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Chattanooga, TN
Also -- I have to ask -- what the heck are you using that is $130 a gallon!??!?!

^This!!! :shocking:

Also, i just repainted a large portion of my interior. Not the same thing you're going through, admittedly. I hate painting, but i love my Purdy brushes. Lets put it this way... If I had to paint with nothing but a cheap brush, I'd hire it out. Purdy makes it tolerable.
 

autopts71045

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Hey Bull, get a HS Kid to do it for ya..All you will have to do occasionally is to get up there to make sure he's getting up under each board or, have him proceed you and just do that angle and you follow up doing the rest. They work quick and since its outdoors, if he drips here and there, no big deal..
 

scarrylarry

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Jun 26, 2010
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West Coast of Canada
Bull... have you thought about rolling the paint with a thick napped 4" roller? The 4" width can give you plenty of control, albeit a little tedious BUT you can always go back with an angled brush for "touch ups."

I too am a little curious at what you're painting with at $130/gallon!:headscrat

-Mike

Bull,I agree with this member on the method he describes.As for brushes Purdy or I have heard Corona are good,no not the beer that's for later.
Good Luck
scarrylarry
 

Stuart in MN

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I'm surprised about the Wagner, especially about it getting into the cracks and crevices. I figured it was just a bogus machine. Aren't they pretty cheap? What model do you have? How much paint do you "lose" to overspray and whatnot? The stuff I am using is $130 for a little less than a gallon; I don't want to be losing 15% of it to bouncing off the surface and hitting the wind.

I don't recall what model it is, I believe it's just their basic model. I've had it for probably 15 years. There's really not very much overspray, but I suppose that will depend somewhat on your technique (and not trying to paint on a windy day.) I don't think it would be very good for trying to put a nice glossy finish on a smooth surface, but for getting a lot of paint onto a rough surface in a short period of time it does the job, and I thought it worked really well for getting into the cracks and crevices.
 
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Bull

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The paint is European linseed oil paint (Allback I think is the brand.) Only one US distributor. 100% natural, no solvents, no chemicals, no evaporation when it dries, covers better than latex or traditional oil, and has a (claimed) 50 year durability. I love the stuff.

When I got two $17k quotes to do vinyl siding on my house a couple years ago, I decided to prep and paint it myself, one side at a time, using the best paint I could find. I don't want to be doing this job every few years.

The paint is actually $124 for .85 gallon.

http://www.solventfreepaint.com/linseed_paint.htm
 
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