The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[kppolich]

IsoPropyl or GooGone. Probably GooGone first then Isopropyll to clean up the residue.

This also exists.

Ultimate Sealant Remover

WATER-BASED ‚ BIODEGRADABLE This patented formula breaks down the molecular bond between the latex and the surface to which it has attached. Safe for frame paint when used as directed. Intended to remove dried latex from all surfaces and your clothing. See directions for use. Directions: Hard...

silca.cc

Which by reading the label (Flammable!) my guess is its oil based like GooGone or has some denatured alcohol in it.

 

[slowtwitch73]

^^ if you get the just the right (wrong) tire rim combo, tubeless can be a massive pita. Those combos are rare, but I can see how someone would say screw it if that was their reality.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I can setup a tubeless tire faster than changing a tube. Now that the industry seems to have uniform tubeless standards, I haven't had an issue. Back in the early days, it was a messy, clunky process.

 

[CallumRD1]

Agreed. I went fully in on tubeless for my road/cross/gravel tires years ago and haven't looked back. (Knock on wood) I haven't had to stop a ride due to a puncture since making that change. Sealant may make a mess, but it has always plugged the hole for me.

I rarely fail to seat a tubeless tire with just a floor pump. I only bother using an air compressor when it happens to be convenient. With good rims, tires, and prep, I don't find tubeless setup to be a challenge.

(Mountain bike tires have always been tubeless for me.)

 

[duneslider]

I don't have any road bikes but all the bikes except the fat bikes are tubeless and I can't see it any other way. I also have never experienced a buildup of sealant on the frame? What causes this? Is it punctures spraying the frame? Messy application?

Anyway, the little bit of sealant that does get out seems to clean up with warm soapy water, or isopro.

 

[f121]

I'm curious - can you tell us why you want to stay tubeless?

On a mtb it removes the risk of pinch flats, which can be a daily occurrence in rocky terrain.

 

[Odd-job]

It's probably a multi layer mix of Stans, Bontrager, and Finish Line sealants.

Tried some 90% isopropyl alcohol and the sealant laughed at it. The pressure washer seemed to do a semi decent job, but caution definitely needs to be exercised. Might give goo gone a shot.

Tubeless can be a blessing and a curse. After almost 20 years experimenting with tubeless it really depends on the tires and the trade offs and compromises one is willing to deal with. The lighter weight tires tend to bleed sealant through the sidewalls and require frequent top ups. The midweight tires seem to be a happy medium between feeling the riding surface and not being easy to blow or tear huge holes in them. Am never going back to tubed on road, gravel, or mountain bikes.

 

[acer66]

Did not know that they went tubeless on road bikes too but my knowledge there stops with the road bike I bought in the mid 90’s.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I've found when setting up tubeless it's way easier / quicker if I pull the valve from the stem and first inflate the tire with no valve core in the stem in it to get the bead to seat. If it's stubborn, a spray bottle with some dish soap & water helps lubricate the bead. Then once I've got it to dry seat, I then use the Park injector to add the sealant, reinstall the valve core and its home free. Pre-seating it, actually saves time and keeps the mess factor to zero.

Even with flushing the injector with water after wards the nozzle tends to clog up after a bunch of tires, so I keep a bunch of extra nozzles on hand.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Fillmore valves work waay better than Presta. But yeah, if dealing with Presta, removing the core helps.

 

[CallumRD1]

Agreed, some soapy water on the tire really helps to get the bead to seat, especially when only using a track pump. And I too always inject sealant through the valve stem after seating the bead. No mess, quick, and easy. Adding sealant top ups periodically through the valve stem means that I don’t break the bead until it’s time to replace the tire. I just use a cheap disposable plastic 60 mL syringe and a length of rubber tubing I had lying around that happens to be just the right size to go over a presta valve stem.

 

[fishwatcher]

Fillmore valves work waay better than Presta. But yeah, if dealing with Presta, removing the core helps.

How do you top off a tire with Fillmore valves? Seems like you have to break the bead and can’t use an injector style straw to go through the valve.

How do you view the trade off between breaking the bead and replacing the presta core every so often?

 

[slowtwitch73]

You don't need to break the bead... just slip hose over valve body and fill.

The only negative is cost.

 

[old-air-performance]

Hello Guys,

Here a few of my bike speciality tools:

DBD-Tools E-billy automatic bike stand





DBD-Tools Ollie-B automatic bead in machine



Home-made swiveling tool tray with most used tools close to me, T-handles are PB-swiss , all others stahlwille , parktool & knipex cutters



Some bike specific tools , need to cut some space for the new tools.
The new VAR crank thread repair kit ( for removing cranks.




Var truing stand, with centrissimo dial indicator, these can be mounted on bike frame or forks




Been doing this for 9 years as a side job, but since march this year i made this my full-time job.
Normally i dont repair race bikes, i mostly do e-bikes an regular city bikes.

Kind regard,
Toon

 

[Meursault74]

Hello Guys,

Here a few of my bike speciality tools:

DBD-Tools E-billy automatic bike stand





DBD-Tools Ollie-B automatic bead in machine



Home-made swiveling tool tray with most used tools close to me, T-handles are PB-swiss , all others stahlwille , parktool & knipex cutters



Some bike specific tools , need to cut some space for the new tools.
The new VAR crank thread repair kit ( for removing cranks.




Var truing stand, with centrissimo dial indicator, these can be mounted on bike frame or forks




Been doing this for 9 years as a side job, but since march this year i made this my full-time job.
Normally i dont repair race bikes, i mostly do e-bikes an regular city bikes.

Kind regard,
Toon

Very nice shop set up.

no race bikes? I see one there.

Don't say that about race bikes you'll make him upset.
(I see you're in Belgium, who else is going to come to mind first)

 

[duneslider]

I like the articulating arm for the tools! That is a great idea.

I love those electric bike stands, just cant justify one for my home garage...

How do you like the pb swiss T-handles?

Speaking of Hex wrenches. Does anyone else have issues with 2mm fasteners stripping out? I am not sure if the fault is the fastener, the hex key, or the operator. I run into a lot of grub screws or set screws that the 2mm hex key seems to not fit great (feels loose) and ends up spinning inside. Sometimes its not like the fastener is even stripped out but its almost like the key is too small and doesn't fit well. I find these most often on fork lockout set screws and dropper post set screws. I don't feel like I am overtightening but maybe I am. I also seem to have the best luck with my older craftsman individual keys and not any of my nicer t-handles.

 

[1nterceptor]

@duneslider are the tips of your tools ball end, or straight? I'd stick with the straight end.
Pretty happy with my old Craftsman T handle hex set(Bondhus?). Had to sell that(along with a bunch of other tools), when we moved from a 2K sq ft house(w/ a 400 sq ft garage) - to a 1 bed condo. Later on I got a used Snap-on set from Ebay. Pretty happy with that set, too. Though if I had to do it again - might go German or Japanese to save a bit. https://flic.kr/p/PzvyMu

 

[duneslider]

@duneslider are the tips of your tools ball end, or straight? I'd stick with the straight end.
Pretty happy with my old Craftsman T handle hex set(Bondhus?). Had to sell that(along with a bunch of other tools), when we moved from a 2K sq ft house(w/ a 400 sq ft garage) - to a 1 bed condo. Later on I got a used Snap-on set from Ebay. Pretty happy with that set, too. Though if I had to do it again - might go German or Japanese to save a bit. https://flic.kr/p/PzvyMu

I only use the square ends in the 2mm, ball ends just don't have enough meat to grab.

 

[1nterceptor]

I run into a lot of grub screws or set screws that the 2mm hex key seems to not fit great (feels loose) and ends up spinning inside.

Make sure it's not actually a 2.5mm.

 

[308guru]

Give acetone a shot. Most clear coats will be a two part with activator. They “cure” and are generally solvent resistant.

It’s not like some hardware store rattle can clear coat your working with.

 

[drmarkr]

Hi guys, am trying to remove a multi layer mass of dried sealant caked on the back of my bike's seat tube/chainstays (clear coated carbon so acetone or other strong solvents are probably a no go). The internet has proved a little less than useful this time around, but have been using an abrasive cleaning stick (used to clean sandpaper) to rid tires of dried sealant and easier to reach spots such as on the down tube. Does anyone make something that can go on a rotary tool like a die grinder to make life easier? I see decal eraser wheels for drills that might work? Ideally I would find something cone shaped. Although anything would be better than trying to use this abrasive cleaning stick as a ***** on the bike. Any thoughts welcomed (other than giving up on tubeless).

Xylol. I buy it by the gallon. Use it for adhesive removal on essentially any surface except plastics (and some of those even). The key is to use a lot of it, by refreshing your rag frequently while working the adhesive off. YMMV, but I've done it this way for 20+ yrs.

 

[Pexto]

Very nice shop set up.

no race bikes? I see one there.

Don't say that about race bikes you'll make him upset.
(I see you're in Belgium, who else is going to come to mind first)

That's a great pic. If I'm not mistaken, Eddy turns 80 this year.

 

[spyerx]

Apologies for the rambling here

So I'm NOT a bike tech. I haven't really wrenched on a biked since I was a teenager. However, I have and older mountain bike with some hybrid tires on it and a fixed gear city type bike that both hadn't been used in a while that I have greased up / cleaned up. Have some teenage nephews visiting for a while and well, they will want to get around and down to the beach, etc.

Anyway, I used my pile of snap on, sk, pb Swiss for most stuff and it worked great. Except for a few specialty tools. My parents had been avid cyclists and I have a small amount of bike specific tools from Park - a couple different cone wrenches, spoke wrench, chain tool a few other things.

I did have to buy a chain whip wrench, a bottom bracket socket, gearset adapter tool, pedal arm puller/removal tool. These I got cheap Amazon stuff and they worked ok for that, I don't see myself using them much.

Got both bikes apart, greased up, the bottom brackets were an SOB had to use an impact on both bikes (I guess its older Shimano style), and both are working great now.

But, those Park cone wrenches, they leave to be desired. They are USA made but pretty thin. Those I'd use more than anything for greasing the axles and setting the bearing lash...

Also, when torquing the bottom bracket cartridge/bearings, I see they (these are old bikes, steel frames, nothing exotic) suggest 30-50nm. But these things were massively tighter. And both were greased. Rest of the assembly I simply did "torque to feel"

So 2 questions:

Is that torque figure assume the threads are greased (ie anti seize or grease)?

Who's got the best cone wrenches? I don't mind paying up for the only few sizes I need for occasional maintenance. The Park I have are double ended stamped style.

Thanks

 

[slowtwitch73]

There should be grease on the bb threads to prevent the bb seizing in the frame, and to prevent creaking.

For a frame like you describe, torquing the bb is way overkill.. in my experience, it's not ever done.

I have the single ended Park cone wrenches.. they work fine.. nothing notable. Honestly I rarely use them nowadays with cartridge bearings gaining favor.

 

[spyerx]

There should be grease on the bb threads to prevent the bb seizing in the frame, and to prevent creaking.

For a frame like you describe, torquing the bb is way overkill.. in my experience, it's not ever done.

I have the single ended Park cone wrenches.. they work fine.. nothing notable. Honestly I rarely use them nowadays with cartridge bearings gaining favor.

ok yeah I did grease the threads (I used anti seize paste I had ) and coated the other internal bits with grease. Same on the seat post (grease) and forks (grease). There was some on these but it was kinda dry. I guess used to prevent galvanic corrosion on these parts.

But thanks for confirming these torque specs are wet/lubed. I think you're right though it is kind of overkill, "good and tight"!

On the wrenches, maybe the single ended are stronger/better feel since they have the handle. They aren't too $, maybe I'll just grab the few sizes I need.

But yeah I understand on bikes, these 2 are pretty old... old style bearing system.

 

[Meursault74]

Apologies for the rambling here

So I'm NOT a bike tech. I haven't really wrenched on a biked since I was a teenager. However, I have and older mountain bike with some hybrid tires on it and a fixed gear city type bike that both hadn't been used in a while that I have greased up / cleaned up. Have some teenage nephews visiting for a while and well, they will want to get around and down to the beach, etc.

Anyway, I used my pile of snap on, sk, pb Swiss for most stuff and it worked great. Except for a few specialty tools. My parents had been avid cyclists and I have a small amount of bike specific tools from Park - a couple different cone wrenches, spoke wrench, chain tool a few other things.

I did have to buy a chain whip wrench, a bottom bracket socket, gearset adapter tool, pedal arm puller/removal tool. These I got cheap Amazon stuff and they worked ok for that, I don't see myself using them much.

Got both bikes apart, greased up, the bottom brackets were an SOB had to use an impact on both bikes (I guess its older Shimano style), and both are working great now.

But, those Park cone wrenches, they leave to be desired. They are USA made but pretty thin. Those I'd use more than anything for greasing the axles and setting the bearing lash...

Also, when torquing the bottom bracket cartridge/bearings, I see they (these are old bikes, steel frames, nothing exotic) suggest 30-50nm. But these things were massively tighter. And both were greased. Rest of the assembly I simply did "torque to feel"

So 2 questions:

Is that torque figure assume the threads are greased (ie anti seize or grease)?

Who's got the best cone wrenches? I don't mind paying up for the only few sizes I need for occasional maintenance. The Park I have are double ended stamped style.

Thanks

That's what cone wrenches are for. For setting up cup and cone bearings. They're supposed to be thin. I have those double ended park ones. They do the job. sounds like they are good enough for your needs.

 

[Meursault74]

ok yeah I did grease the threads (I used anti seize paste I had ) and coated the other internal bits with grease. Same on the seat post (grease) and forks (grease). There was some on these but it was kinda dry. I guess used to prevent galvanic corrosion on these parts.

But thanks for confirming these torque specs are wet/lubed. I think you're right though it is kind of overkill, "good and tight"!

On the wrenches, maybe the single ended are stronger/better feel since they have the handle. They aren't too $, maybe I'll just grab the few sizes I need.

But yeah I understand on bikes, these 2 are pretty old... old style bearing system.

If you have a torque wrench, then go ahead and use it. I have used the beam type for the cartridge bottom bracket. The first time I used it for that purpose, I'm glad I did because the torque spec was higher than what I thought was "good and tight". I was concerned about it loosing up and damaging threads. That being said I've set up cup and cone bottom brackets by feel, as I don't have adapters for those tools to put on a torque wrench.

I've also used the torque wrench for the cranks and cassette lockring. I've had the lockring loosen up a time or two when I didn't use it. it's 40 nm, and printed on the ring. The rest I've done by feel for years, but I did later get a 1/4 drive clicker type, I've used it occasionally.

 

[shibertus]

Who's got the best cone wrenches? I don't mind paying up for the only few sizes I need for occasional maintenance. The Park I have are double ended stamped style.

The single-ended Park cone wrenches have worked for me. I also have some Japanese thin jaw adjustable wrenches like these from TOP:

https://www.amazon.com/TOP-HT-200B/dp/B001D31VQK?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another idea is a Knipex pliers wrench with the jaws milled down:

 

[Sbusmech]

Great and pretty in depth post! Most of my experience is with Park Tools. Even set my son up with a basic set of them for his Mountain Bike.

 

[duneslider]

I have some park tool cone wrenches and some other no name brand. The no names are slightly thicker but not enough to matter and the steel seems slightly harder. A couple of the park cone wrenches have a slight bit of deforming happening. I don't use cone wrenches much anymore on bikes, usually end up using them on random stuff that my regular wrenches are too wide for.

Most stuff really would be fine without a torque wrench if you aren't going crazy. I frequently try to "be as accurate" as a torque wrench and do it by feel then grab the torque wrench to compare, I am usually under-torqued it seems. I mostly worry about over-torquing on carbon but find even a lot of the torque values on carbon are higher than needed to keep stuff from moving.

 

[duneslider]

Curious on yalls thoughts on bleeding magura brakes? I don't personally have any maguras at the moment, I just have had the best luck with shimano overall. I have liked the power of maguras but for some reason really have struggled to get them bled correctly. I tend to have no issue with the front and get a nice firm lever feel and then I go to the rear and I spend forever on it and never quite seem to get it to feel great. I push fluid and I pull vacuum both directions, orient the bike in every imaginable direction, it just seems no matter what I do the back always feels spongy and not right. I helped a friend the other day with his and while he said it felt good, I am not content with how it ended up. Better than before the bleed but still not what I would consider great.

 

[spyerx]

That's what cone wrenches are for. For setting up cup and cone bearings. They're supposed to be thin. I have those double ended park ones. They do the job. sounds like they are good enough for your needs.

Yes, what I really want over the stamped double ended ones is better leverage and not digging into my hands when setting the bearing lash and tightening them. Gloves would be a simple fix I guess?

If you have a torque wrench, then go ahead and use it. I have used the beam type for the cartridge bottom bracket. The first time I used it for that purpose, I'm glad I did because the torque spec was higher than what I thought was "good and tight". I was concerned about it loosing up and damaging threads. That being said I've set up cup and cone bottom brackets by feel, as I don't have adapters for those tools to put on a torque wrench.

I've also used the torque wrench for the cranks and cassette lockring. I've had the lockring loosen up a time or two when I didn't use it. it's 40 nm, and printed on the ring. The rest I've done by feel for years, but I did later get a 1/4 drive clicker type, I've used it occasionally.

I do (I have a nice 3/8 digital wrench), I did torque bottom bracket and the crank arms to spec, these seem to be the most important to get right. Hey at least it's not clicking and seems very smooth now.

The single-ended Park cone wrenches have worked for me. I also have some Japanese thin jaw adjustable wrenches like these from TOP:



Another idea is a Knipex pliers wrench with the jaws milled down:

So I have a thin jaw Channellock adjustable (2 actually, 8 and 6" I think) which I also tried. These are Bahco made I think, Spain. They work ok, but the step from thin to thick gets in the way of the combo wrench so you're kinda on the edge of the jaws.

That Knipex is trick! That would work well.

 

[Meursault74]

The single-ended Park cone wrenches have worked for me. I also have some Japanese thin jaw adjustable wrenches like these from TOP:

https://www.amazon.com/TOP-HT-200B/dp/B001D31VQK?tag=atomicindus08-20

Another idea is a Knipex pliers wrench with the jaws milled down:

I have the "Channelock" brand thin adjustable wrench and have used it on threaded headsets for the adjustment nut. Have also used the pliers wrench for the top nut as well. I do have a head set wrench, but it's a little thin, but did work. The other two work better.
I had not seen that "thin" pliers wrench before. Guess it was a natural evolution to get to.

 

[Gebirgekind]

Also, when torquing the bottom bracket cartridge/bearings, I see they (these are old bikes, steel frames, nothing exotic) suggest 30-50nm. But these things were massively tighter. And both were greased. Rest of the assembly I simply did "torque to feel"

Bottom brackets tighten by design in use through mechanical precession (except Italian threads), plus they see some of the most weathering of any parts so it's common for them to seize up. Grease, torque to 50Nm and you're good.

Who's got the best cone wrenches? I don't mind paying up for the only few sizes I need for occasional maintenance. The Park I have are double ended stamped style.

Just get the blue single-end Park cone wrenches, they're much nicer to use and will do the job well. Unior's are nice too. Those stamped double-ended are horrible to use and don't provide enough leverage, they're mainly made for field repair kits, etc. 13mm, 15mm, and 17mm are all you should generally need except once in a blue moon.

 

[Gebirgekind]

Curious on yalls thoughts on bleeding magura brakes? I don't personally have any maguras at the moment, I just have had the best luck with shimano overall. I have liked the power of maguras but for some reason really have struggled to get them bled correctly. I tend to have no issue with the front and get a nice firm lever feel and then I go to the rear and I spend forever on it and never quite seem to get it to feel great. I push fluid and I pull vacuum both directions, orient the bike in every imaginable direction, it just seems no matter what I do the back always feels spongy and not right. I helped a friend the other day with his and while he said it felt good, I am not content with how it ended up. Better than before the bleed but still not what I would consider great.

They're notoriously famous for this. A lot of trial and error, you'll get there eventually. There are a few useful Youtube videos with some decent tips, but Magura's have always been fiddly.

 

[spyerx]

Just get the blue single-end Park cone wrenches, they're much nicer to use and will do the job well. Unior's are nice too. Those stamped double-ended are horrible to use and don't provide enough leverage, they're mainly made for field repair kits, etc. 13mm, 15mm, and 17mm are all you should generally need except once in a blue moon.

Went and measured the bikes I have and they all have thin nuts in those exact sizes... I have a separate pedal wrench that is thicker. Just ordered the Park blue handles. Thanks

 

[boom_bap]

You can also get a set from Jenson USA house brand "Foundation". They sell a whole set 13-19 IIRC for like $20 bucks. Great if you don't use them often.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Curious on yalls thoughts on bleeding magura brakes? I don't personally have any maguras at the moment, I just have had the best luck with shimano overall. I have liked the power of maguras but for some reason really have struggled to get them bled correctly. I tend to have no issue with the front and get a nice firm lever feel and then I go to the rear and I spend forever on it and never quite seem to get it to feel great. I push fluid and I pull vacuum both directions, orient the bike in every imaginable direction, it just seems no matter what I do the back always feels spongy and not right. I helped a friend the other day with his and while he said it felt good, I am not content with how it ended up. Better than before the bleed but still not what I would consider great.

I’ve found them to be very easy to bleed. However the oring on the caliper banjo bolts seem to need to be replaced frequently and the master cylinder in the levers is known to leak as well. Imop the calipers are great by the Magura levers are ****. I replaced my levers with Shimano XTR and they now are the strongest brakes I’ve ever used.

In regards to cone wrenches I wanna full set of Park.

Like most things Park the quality is meh.

I prefer to use my Snapon low-torque wrenches. However there are times only the Park will fit


I did just pick up a few Uniors in larger sizes that Park and Snapon do not make. Compared to Park the quality of Unior is way better however there are a few differences

The Unior and Snapon are the same thickness. On things like a Vorsprung smashpot coil conversion only the park one will work.

The parks can be used as a super thin crowfoot on a torque wrench as well. It’s surprising how often I’ve needed to use that trick when I have a full set of Snapon crow feet.

But with bikes it’s not too uncommon you need something super thin

 

[Griff79]

I love bikes! Sort of old school but some that are in my stable include: Merlin Ti, Torelli steel, Mondonico, Serotta steel, Pegoretti, Moots Va Moots. Great post to open this thread.
Griff

 

[duneslider]

I’ve found them to be very easy to bleed. However the oring on the caliper banjo bolts seem to need to be replaced frequently and the master cylinder in the levers is known to leak as well. Imop the calipers are great by the Magura levers are ****. I replaced my levers with Shimano XTR and they now are the strongest brakes I’ve ever used.

I wonder if o-rings in the banjo is the issue, on the few I have worked on, it seems like no matter how many times I pull a vaccum I keep getting air coming out. Something to consider. I have been hesitant to get me a set for one of my bikes due to this issue. For whatever reason (maybe just chance), the 4 piston brakes always seem to bleed and feel great, it has always been the two piston caliper that I have had issues with. (MT Trail SL-2 piston) All the 4 piston brakes I have done seemed to bleed up good and feel great.

Those thin snapon wrenches are cool, I haven't seen those before.