Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Build Thread - Hello from SW Mustang, OK

[penright]

The project at work that I had hoped would be finished and was spending a lot of time is not finished yet. So I took a last Thursday and Friday off. Also, my college football team had a bye week, that gave me 3 days in a row.

Things keep changing. I bought a 60 gallon compressor Labor Day. Since it is more permanent than the one I had, I thought I would put it in a corner. The corner that I picked was below the "over the workbench" shelving. So I needed to finish the shelf, so once the compressor was installed I would not have to move it to get behind it.

Here are the links where I was figuring out how to go about installing the compressor.
New Install Dewalt 60 Gallon Air Compressor
Grounds with different size wire and ground wire nut

Before someone yells at me for no disconnect, the breaker panel is just 10 feet away and in full view of the compressor. I still need to break it in, trim the hold-down bolts, install some airline. I will run some 1/2" hose to my hose reel for now, till I get things more settled where the airlines will go. Then I will install something more permanent. As you will see, I am making more changes to the plan that I have already changed.


Now to the "over the workbench" shelf, hereafter in the post referred to a shelf. If you go back to post #32 you will see how I had the plan to have the shelf floating over the bench. At the time of post #32, I was not sure what I was going to use for shelving. So I had some shelving given to me. They have been in a field for a long time and are pretty crusty. That link is where I was trying to figure out how to brace them. So now I am thinking about using those shelves.
I have 2 different sizes 30" x 36" and 42" x 36".

Back to the floating shelf. So the back and right sides will be supported by the girts. That is why in the picture for the right front corner, I have two pieces of C-channel carrying the load to the floor. The left front corner is supported via z-brace and vertical support attached to the purlin. The front horizontal bar is about 44" depth. With my current shelves, I can get 3 depths from them (30", 36", 42") I decided to use the 30" then I would have 14" and a joint. I was going to brace the joint with a second horizontal beam parallel to the front and back. I was trying to keep the structure as light as possible. I was floating the shelf to keep a post from invading the floor space. At 30" the post would be right next to the workbench and therefore not as intrusive. Now you will see the domino effect of that decision. To create the beam, I sistered two c-channel together. Right now you may be asking why all the welding. Besides needing the practice, I had a bunch of this 3-foot long c-channel.

Back to the changes, once I decided to have the floor support instead of building structure, I started over-engineering. I was looking at the beam and posts and decided, why splice a 14" piece on the front just use the 42". I would have to cut and bend the edges to get a 14" piece. Now there would be a post in the middle of the floor. Here are some pictures showing the front edge at 30", 36" and 42". I had removed the floating horizontal bar by this time. The one you see in the first picture will be the beam once I decide where the posts go.

This is at 42"

This is at 36"

This is at 30"

Pros and Cons
The 42" position. Mostly cons. The left post sticks out on the floor. It may be hard to tell from the picture, I was going to have the cabinet pushed up against the parts bin. I have two folding 6' tables stored behind the cabinet. Now there is not enough room between the post.

I like the 30" position as far as where it sits on the floor. It has two downsides.
1. Not enough depth, some of the items would hang off the edge.
2. Looking at the right post, you can see it does not leave much room for where the airline would connect to the compressor.

So I am leaning toward the 36". The left post will be a little in the way, but there is enough room on the right post to put the tables against the wall and fit between the parts bin and the post. There is enough room for the airline. I also can put the items up there without them overhanging. Just the left post is a little out in the way, to the front of the workbench instead of next to it.

I am guessing I need to put some shelving material up there and see how it all fits.

BTW, here is the beam before I painted it. As clutter as things are, that is why I am trying to get my shelving started.

 

[penright]

I have not updated the thread in a while. I actually finished off a section. I lot of good advice from this forum told me not to worry too much about it because they are going to change a lot and that is so true. Here are 3 sets of pictures showing some of the evolution. The 3rd and 4th are just from different angles.

The old garage was a lot smaller, but I had years of tweaking the space to use every nook and cranny. You have to use every hole you can find. An example is in the final two pictures where I hung jack stands over the compressor. The first picture was just shortly after moving in and before moving the barn at the old house and moving what would become shelving parts. Right now the shelving is taking up a lot of the room where the boxes were laid out.

I did know that was generally where I wanted the workbench to go. My first plan to use the area above the workbench with a hanging shelf. I was going to keep lightweight stuff up there. You can see from the second to the fourth picture, I did support it with a pole. Also, the girt that the back shelf sits on has some c-channel between it and the middle, then one from the middle to the ground. Between the girts welded to the poles and those, I feel pretty good about the support. Still, I will keep what I store up there somewhat light. The lighting in the first picture was just an outlet wired onto a breaker. Then an extension cord to a couple of 4' hanging fluorescent lights. Since then I have conduits and permanent lights bolted to the red iron and under the shelf for task lighting.

I still need to punch down the cat6 in the picture. I have finished that but do not have a picture.

That the corner is in the southeast of the building. The back wall is on the east. I am not working on shelves for the northeast corner.

 

[penright]

Been a long process for getting the shop to a point where I can pull a car in. I had to use it for storage after the move and building infrastructure for organizations, internet, electrical, etc... The corner in the previous post touch on a lot these. I told my daughter my goal is to have enough floor space for her to park, before the first snow, when they come to visit from out of town.
I also told her I would add a garage door opener for her.

I also pointed out two big variables. One is how much time I have, but the other is the fact that we live in OK and it could snow in July.

I got one goal finished and partway down the road for the other. I got the garage door opener installed, which was in these COVID times was harder than you would think. I need a side mount. From the stories I heard, Liftmast converted over to manufacture ventilators and just recently started producing openers again. They make a lot of different openers that are rebranded. I order one a few weeks ago and by switching to a different brand I could get it quicker. Quicker was about 3 weeks. Anyway, showed up last week and got it installed. Had to move some things on my wall, run a conduit for an outlet, add some bracing, but got it done. The fact it was a metal building added to the fun.

The next part was getting more shelves up. These took a while to strip and paint. In hindsight, I would have just painted the edges, left the underside primer, and just put some "smooth brown wall panel". After painting the bottoms, that is exactly what I did for the tops.

I left the far right one a few inches off the ground to park the floor jacks under and I will make a drawer to put my little metal scraps. The one to the far left, I started in the middle and will park things such as an airless sprayer. The pegboard will be cut to fit that area. That will make the area look better and a place to hang tools. Those shelves are 48" wide and 36" deep. I will store mostly totes but will make some cubby holes. Also, will add some structure to the back to stack pipe and other longer items from the side. I may put some small bolt bins, if I do, I need to but some structure on the back for them to bolt to.

I had to move the ramps and wheelbarrow, you can just see the handles, over to the left. Two things to make room for was the lock. It is the black box bolted to the track parallel to the top of the fire extinguisher. That also made room for the sensors. I had to figure out a way to attach almost everything because most of the install is expecting wood construction. The house garage door openers are Linear. Linear does not make a side mount. The Linear remotes have 3 buttons. We are using one for the two-car and one for the one-car. I wanted to use the 3rd one for the shop. To make it work, Linear makes a receiver that acts as a relay. And the Genie has terminals for old-style switches. I call them doorbell switches to distinguish them from the wireless remote. So I was able to use the Linears. It looks like a power brick. The light, round one mounted vertically, is controlled wirelessly. So all I need is a doorbell style switch to mount below the fire extinguisher. I can run a wire easy to it. Then I mounted the wireless one over by the bench.

Kind of a cool idea. Basically, it is a remote like what you would put in a car, but mount to the wall. Not that I would have gone out of my way, the door is not that far, the fact that it came with it, why not.

 

[penright]

I finished the drawer for metal scraps. I was able to hide most of the ugly behind the hardboard. The rollers are not on rails so you have to guide it somewhat, at least now the pile is hidden.

 

[penright]

Things moved a little farther along. I was able to pegboards, shelves, and low voltage wire for window contacts done.

I did get the rack on the back of the middle shelf, looking at the end shot on the bottom picture. That one is for short sticks of wood, plastic, or metal.
I need to do the same for the top shelf. The PVC was what I had leftover from boring under the driveway. I was going to save the water hose attachment in case I need to push something again. I will do something with it. Either make it smaller or someplace else. That a good candidate for the attic.

Before I get yelled at, I did not screw into the truss. I use some of my orange C channels and cut tabs to slide between the truss and insulation. Then screw the side near the top. Extended the pegboard above the truss, so when screwed to the C channel it squeezes the truss. The outside sheeting is screwed to it, but I do not want to weld or put any holes in it.

 

[penright]

Had a milestone in the shop build today. We had our first car. Still have a lot of organization left to go. I had to move and stack shelves that I am painting. The cool part was that it was my grandson's car. Broken motor mount.

It was fun.

 

[jakes29]

greetings from Goldsby, OK! Great build thread!

 

[penright]

Finished up a couple of projects this weekend.
#1 Added a drop light for the 1st bay.

#2, finished the gas heater.
Here is a thread with a lot of detail.
Install Big Maxx Vertical vs Horizontal venting?

 

[penright]

The heater has been nice this year. Like the retractable light so much got an extension cord version.

 

[penright]

I had this grinder on this stool convert to stand for almost 40 years. Finally gave it an upgrade. More comfortable height. I plan on inclosing the sides, back, and middle with something on the front to have some storage.

Before ...


After...