magnumleigh
Member
Spent a good while today going through this entire build so far, makes for very good reading indeed - thanks for sharing. I love it so far (the boat dock is great!) and look forward to reading more updates
If I didn't know better, I'd think these guys were going to screed themselves into a corner.

The infloor system should be pressurized with 100 PSI of air for at least the pour and preferablely until put into service.It is to be a "telltale" in case a tube gets nicked.You will see the bubbles up through the concrete so you can locate the damage.You can do a repair and sleeve it right then or come back and chip it out later if the concrete is not finish floor.If you used water instead,you would ruin the concrete in the area of the break.Anyone who does not air up an infloor system for the concrete pour does not know what they are doing and is asking for trouble.How else will you know when a carpenter shoots a nail through your tubing because the damn general contractor couldn't be bothered to have the right short pins on hand for the framers?I've never seen it pressurized before. What's the reasoning? Just to prevent a potential collapse of a line or what?

I thought passing the Pex through some PVC sweeps was a nice touch to help renforce the tubing as it exits the slab. Gonna keep that in mind for my build.
This whole project shows how Americans can do great work if allowed too!
I also wanted to comment on the job your infloor guys did.It is first rate ...I love seeing a nice straight, symmetrical layout.The time they took to make it look good even though it will be buried forever speaks to their pride, care and craftsmanship.Without good people(yourself,your crew and subs) putting this project together with care and good planning....it would turn into nightmare very fast!!!This whole project shows how Americans can do great work if allowed too!
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I will still add though, that you could heat up this thread from a 1000°C to a 2000°C by sometimes adding a wide-angle overview-pic (like you just did, awesome pic!!) as well as the occasional picture from across the river. I really like how it looks quite differently from across the river.
The infloor system should be pressurized with 100 PSI of air for at least the pour and preferablely until put into service.I asked my geothermal guy about that. He told me that he always used to pressurize the lines but has gotten away from it- the lines are factory tested and he has installed a million feet of tubing without a problem. He said he'd be glad to pressurize the lines if I wished.
In this case I wasn't particularly concerned because the tubing didn't get any abuse but I'll definitely give it some thought on future placements. I'll also be sure to have ONLY the correct fasteners available on site
Lets see if i get this??
The lite deck is the formwork for your floor, that you leave in place to add more insulation value![]()
So the reo sits ontop and the concrete will vibrate down into all the gaps and tie in your steel beams![]()
You have it exactly right. The LiteDeck is a stay in place form that creates integral beams. The profile reduces the amount of concrete required and provides sound and thermal insulation.
We're placing two #5 bars in the bottom of each beam. When you place the deck, you start by filling just the beams and voids to make sure you fill them completely, then you place the slab over the top.
Think of it as an alternative to metal form deck. LiteDeck can span greater distances than metal decking though in our case the spans are quite short due to the overall design. I considered using metal deck but the cost to frame and insulate would have been more.
We're placing two #5 bars in the bottom of each beam. When you place the deck, you start by filling just the beams and voids to make sure you fill them completely, then you place the slab over the top.
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Is the strapping something the LiteDeck rep has dealt with before? Just wondering if their company has come up with some other solution for preventing panel shift on the I-beam lip?
Is the shoring put in dead straight or do you have a slight upward camber in it?
With pouring the floor do you do it the same day as the beams? Or do you do the deck like when you pour the walls, the bottom is poured around the perimeter allowed to set up some before the top is poured.
It would all be poured in one to avoid a cold break.
Do you only need the one shoring prop under the litedeck ? Or will you prop it out some more for the actual slab load later. That stuff looks real neat underneath. Do you do anything to it after or just leave it raw. I know it is not exposed to the outside. Do you silicone up your edges or does that stuff lock in tight, what about along the I beams or side walls.


may have been covered already but what do you do for plumbing or wiring with these floor pannels?? Do you cut it and insert??
It still boggles my mind that none of what we have seen thus far will ever see the light of day again save on this site and perhaps in a photo journal that maybe you should present your wife with on the day you open the door for her to step into her new home.
That overall photo sure puts the project in perspective....wow. I also like the way you have protected and capped the steel for safety with the timber.
Are you kidding me 3 days with no updates???? Whats going on here? You are going to have to fix this limited access to internet because those of us that are hooked need to have our fix!
Rob
