ODIS
Well-known member
Have enjoyed this thread and always look forward to the progress made on your build.
Continued success.
Ody.
Continued success.
Ody.
The Concrete Underground
- Thread starter ConCretin
- Start date
Bogdan M.
Well-known member
Amazing thread! I have watched it from day one and I can't wait to see the build finished.
We had a pretty good week and placed some more concrete yesterday. First we had to finish up the formwork for the chimney;
When placing tall narrow forms like this, you have to be careful with your lifts and placement rate. It's very easy to bring the concrete up too fast. With light duty formwork like this, you don;t want to exceed about 7' hour
We're also very careful to vibrate 6" or so into the previous lift and no more. The ******** 'liquifies' the concrete and increases the pressure on the forms.
Is it safe to say that you try to put the pump hose down into the form as far as possible when you have a tall pour like this ?
Congrates on the milestones!
Many curiosities: Are you using an EIFS "stucco" finish, or hanging wire lath and using portland cement plaster "stucco"? What brand of roof membrane? When are the windows supposed to hit the site?
It will be amazing to see the transformation of the interior, and you will probably perceive "scale confusion" as the windows go in. A house can be very misleading during construction.. Until you get some furniture in there to allow your mind to grasp the size of things.. It will vary from looking really big to looking strangely small.
Enjoy it, and best of luck. We will wait patiently (somewhat).
Many curiosities: Are you using an EIFS "stucco" finish, or hanging wire lath and using portland cement plaster "stucco"? What brand of roof membrane? When are the windows supposed to hit the site?
It will be amazing to see the transformation of the interior, and you will probably perceive "scale confusion" as the windows go in. A house can be very misleading during construction.. Until you get some furniture in there to allow your mind to grasp the size of things.. It will vary from looking really big to looking strangely small.
Enjoy it, and best of luck. We will wait patiently (somewhat).
sam 8
Well-known member
For a number of reasons too boring to mention I don't get to get on GJ as often as I'd like, but when I do this is the first thread I seek out.
LL thank you for taking us on this journey with you. It almost feels as though you have invited us all into your home, which, by nature is one of the most private, sacrosanct parts of a man's life.
In doing so you have demonstrated your skill, tenacity, and sense of humor. Thanks for taking us along for the ride, and I look forward to it continuing until you have someone take a photo of you and your loved ones sharing a beverage or two on the finished property, looking down at the river.
LL thank you for taking us on this journey with you. It almost feels as though you have invited us all into your home, which, by nature is one of the most private, sacrosanct parts of a man's life.
In doing so you have demonstrated your skill, tenacity, and sense of humor. Thanks for taking us along for the ride, and I look forward to it continuing until you have someone take a photo of you and your loved ones sharing a beverage or two on the finished property, looking down at the river.
60766244
Active member
Jackie Treehorn
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 24, 2012
- Messages
- 25
Speechless...
Thedoc14
Well-known member
LL, Thanks for the update, I keep looking for your updates and appreciate the time it takes away from real work to update us sticky beaks.
Love the work and cant wait to see more as you progress.
Love the work and cant wait to see more as you progress.
LockerPaul
Member
- Joined
- Aug 29, 2013
- Messages
- 6
LL, congrats on the progress so far, it is very impressive. I might have missed the answer somewhere, and I know it is definitely not high on your list of priorities at the moment, but are you going to put any railing on your stairs to your dock?
Very nice-looking house, you must be very impatient for it to become your home.
Very nice-looking house, you must be very impatient for it to become your home.
When we left off, we were placing the chimney concrete. When I returned to the site at the end of the day, I noticed something attached to the top of the formwork.
Apparently the boys felt that a topping off celebration was in order so they attached a small tree bough to the top of the form. It's customary to top off timber and steel frames in this manner and I guess it works for concrete too.
Since then we've been busy with a range of projects in preparation for roofing and siding. The first of these was to build the porch roof. If I recall from my opening post, I think I said there was no wood in this thing. At some point along the way this changed when I decided I could save some money by building the porch roof out of wood.
Since the roof covered unheated space the insulation wasn't needed. Not only was the wood structure less expensive than concrete but I could build in the pitch and save even more money be eliminating the need for tapered insulation.
Here's a shot of the finished product;
We started by setting some additional steel columns.
We used steel clip angles to attach the roof to the concrete structure and to join the LVLs to one another. The 2x10's that make up the balance of the structure use standard joist hangers.
Here's the view showing the roof over the main entry to the home
Here's a shot from the side. The roof structure pitches 1/4"/ft but the fascia will be installed level to make it look like an extension of the adjacent concrete roof. I'm going to build in an internal gutter or use scuppers to drain the water from behind the fascia at the low points.
Another project I needed to get out of the way was to install the underground propane tank and supply lines. The tank will be installed behind the fibonacci retaining wall.......in the same space I previously installed a foundation drain and the power and cable to the camper. Oops. Here's what it looked like after a re-routed everything;
It's hard to see but I also ripped out a section of footing drain that proceeded to fill the hole with water. After reconnecting the drain, I added a foot or so of crushed stone to ensure the area around the tank was well drained. After placing the tank we used the conveyor truck to backfill it with sand.
The Bobcat works well to supply sand to the belt
I had to dig two trenches the length of the job.site for the propane lines. One runs behind the garage to supply the emergency generator and the instant hot water heater for the garage. A second lines runs to the house to supply a boiler and gas fireplaces.
We've also been busy with a wide range of carpentry projects. Heres a shot of the infill over the 18' garage door. If you recall, we decided not to use a concrete beam due to the span and limited space.
We've pretty much completed the roof blocking. Think of the blocking as kind of a mini parapet. We're adding 2" of rigid and tapered insulation that's 1/2" thick at the base of the slope and increases in depth 1/4" per foot to create the low slope roof. The blocking provides a solid structure at the perimeter of the insulation.
The stucco will be applied over an inch and a half of foam that will come up under the lip you can see at the top of the blocking. Metal flashing will be attached to the lip to keep everything water tight.
Here's the detail I dreamed for the roof/wall connection. My roofer bent up some flashing that I installed over the plywood that he'll glue his roof membrane to. I added 18" of Ice and Water Shield that will be covered by foam and stucco. I'll post more photos as we go to hopefully make this more clear.
We're planning on lots of exterior lighting. Site lighting is very important when you live in a glass house to avoid 'black walls' at night. Here's the detail we're using for most of the wall sconces. The stucco contractor will stucco right over these plywood blocks after he installs an equivalent depth of foam so you won't see them but they'll provide a solid base.
We've also started strapping the ceilings. For most of the home, we're using 1 1/2" channel to provide clearance over column bearing plates and connecting bolts.
Next up is interior metal wall and ceiling framing. We'll also be starting stucco tomorrow. As soon as the stucco is clear, we'll put up abut 3,600 lf of clapboards and then bring in the roofer. Now that I've Finally finished the major concrete, we should start moving right along.
Apparently the boys felt that a topping off celebration was in order so they attached a small tree bough to the top of the form. It's customary to top off timber and steel frames in this manner and I guess it works for concrete too.
Since then we've been busy with a range of projects in preparation for roofing and siding. The first of these was to build the porch roof. If I recall from my opening post, I think I said there was no wood in this thing. At some point along the way this changed when I decided I could save some money by building the porch roof out of wood.
Since the roof covered unheated space the insulation wasn't needed. Not only was the wood structure less expensive than concrete but I could build in the pitch and save even more money be eliminating the need for tapered insulation.
Here's a shot of the finished product;
We started by setting some additional steel columns.
We used steel clip angles to attach the roof to the concrete structure and to join the LVLs to one another. The 2x10's that make up the balance of the structure use standard joist hangers.
Here's the view showing the roof over the main entry to the home
Here's a shot from the side. The roof structure pitches 1/4"/ft but the fascia will be installed level to make it look like an extension of the adjacent concrete roof. I'm going to build in an internal gutter or use scuppers to drain the water from behind the fascia at the low points.
Another project I needed to get out of the way was to install the underground propane tank and supply lines. The tank will be installed behind the fibonacci retaining wall.......in the same space I previously installed a foundation drain and the power and cable to the camper. Oops. Here's what it looked like after a re-routed everything;
It's hard to see but I also ripped out a section of footing drain that proceeded to fill the hole with water. After reconnecting the drain, I added a foot or so of crushed stone to ensure the area around the tank was well drained. After placing the tank we used the conveyor truck to backfill it with sand.
The Bobcat works well to supply sand to the belt
I had to dig two trenches the length of the job.site for the propane lines. One runs behind the garage to supply the emergency generator and the instant hot water heater for the garage. A second lines runs to the house to supply a boiler and gas fireplaces.
We've also been busy with a wide range of carpentry projects. Heres a shot of the infill over the 18' garage door. If you recall, we decided not to use a concrete beam due to the span and limited space.
We've pretty much completed the roof blocking. Think of the blocking as kind of a mini parapet. We're adding 2" of rigid and tapered insulation that's 1/2" thick at the base of the slope and increases in depth 1/4" per foot to create the low slope roof. The blocking provides a solid structure at the perimeter of the insulation.
The stucco will be applied over an inch and a half of foam that will come up under the lip you can see at the top of the blocking. Metal flashing will be attached to the lip to keep everything water tight.
Here's the detail I dreamed for the roof/wall connection. My roofer bent up some flashing that I installed over the plywood that he'll glue his roof membrane to. I added 18" of Ice and Water Shield that will be covered by foam and stucco. I'll post more photos as we go to hopefully make this more clear.
We're planning on lots of exterior lighting. Site lighting is very important when you live in a glass house to avoid 'black walls' at night. Here's the detail we're using for most of the wall sconces. The stucco contractor will stucco right over these plywood blocks after he installs an equivalent depth of foam so you won't see them but they'll provide a solid base.
We've also started strapping the ceilings. For most of the home, we're using 1 1/2" channel to provide clearance over column bearing plates and connecting bolts.
Next up is interior metal wall and ceiling framing. We'll also be starting stucco tomorrow. As soon as the stucco is clear, we'll put up abut 3,600 lf of clapboards and then bring in the roofer. Now that I've Finally finished the major concrete, we should start moving right along.
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granada don
Active member
- Joined
- May 20, 2013
- Messages
- 34
Hi LL
Do you think you can move into part of the new house before winter sets in, or is that too much to ask with a bunch of stuff left too do ?
What a great project to look and just know what you must be going throu to have it come out this nice, like they say down under ' Good On Ya '
Thanks, Don
Do you think you can move into part of the new house before winter sets in, or is that too much to ask with a bunch of stuff left too do ?
What a great project to look and just know what you must be going throu to have it come out this nice, like they say down under ' Good On Ya '
Thanks, Don
You are correct as usual Nutts. You should limit the free fall of concrete through rebar due to the likelihood that segregation of aggregate will occur.
Your guys use different methods but their work is every bit as good. I've been amazed by your build and am looking forward to the rest
Thanks for the comments OHSCrifle.
We're using EIFS. Pre-colored synthetic stucco over foam. It wasn't my first choice but the budget required some concessions. I'm warming up to the idea and think it will look fine.
To be honest, I don't know what type of membrane we're using. My roofing contractor is an old friend so I haven't really sweated the details - probably should know though.
Windows are custom manufactured and are still weeks out as in November. The delays in finishing concrete so I could field measure all the opening is going to haunt me.
We're already getting the perception issues you describe so well and i expect it will continue until we're finally done.
We're definitely going to install railings - we just haven't made it a priority yet. I probably should though. The damn things are treacherous especially at night.
granada don
Active member
- Joined
- May 20, 2013
- Messages
- 34
Thanks LL for the kind words on the coupe, those were great times for the gassers from 58' to 68'
After that the Afx cars and Funny's just killed them, but we had a great run and put a little mark in the racing sand
What is very cool is the Gassers are back, both street and at some 1/8 mile tracks
Later , Don
After that the Afx cars and Funny's just killed them, but we had a great run and put a little mark in the racing sand
What is very cool is the Gassers are back, both street and at some 1/8 mile tracks
Later , Don
Buzz Lightyear
Well-known member
That is coming along really well. I'm sure I'm not the only one that is enjoying the technical details of how and why things are done the way they are. 
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
It's looking so good; here's hoping you have one long 'Indian Summer' to be able to move in before the snow falls!
We have almost completed the fascia around the perimeter of the porch roof. The plywood will eventually be covered by stucco.
Here's a view from the front. It will look to be an extension of the first floor concrete roof.
Since the fascia is level and the roof pitches, the curb varies in height. We're leaning towards a couple scuppers to let the water drain out.
We have also started interior partition framing. This is the Master Bedroom suite.
Here's the bathroom/kitchenette/closet in the Guest Suite
These are the 'pods' that separate the main living space from the Prep Kitchen and Office. They are basically free standing room dividers that house back to back cabinets.
Here's another shot. The pods will get a wrap of dark wood, which will contrast with the glossy white european style cabinets. Hopefully this will make more sense as we get a little further along.
We've also commenced work on the exterior stucco. The system starts with a layer of 1 1/2" foam, which is adhered to the ICF's/plywood with a cementitious adhesive. This is the end wall of the garage with the foam in place.
We are going to cut in some grooves in a rectangular pattern to create panels and a little more detail.
The foam terminates at the bottom in a plastic drip edge that has weep holes to allow any water that penetrates the system to escape. Where we are placing the foam over Ice & Water Shield the foam is mechanically attached.
Here's the drip edge running up the slope on the side of the garage that is mostly underground. we opted to slope the bottom of the stucco rather than step it up the way the foundation does.
Wherever we have a penetration or need to mount something to the side of the house, we install an inch and a half of plywood to act as a base. The gold color is from a primer the crew applies so they can stucco right over the plywood. Here is a box for a light fixture but we'll use the same detail for hose bibbs, exhaust vents, etc.
Here's a shot of the back of the garage showing more foam and plywood backers in place. The square backer in the bottom center is for an eventual garage exhaust fan - gotta mention garage stuff whenever I can, right?
I'll finish up with a wide angle shot to give you some perspective. You can see all the roof blocking we've installed. The tapered insulation will start level with the back blocking and end up level with the front blocking.
Well that's about it for now. Metal framing should be complete by mid week after which we can start roughing in plumbing, mechanical and electrical. Stucco will take several more weeks during which we'll also tackle the clapboard siding. Once all the siding is done, it's time for a roof. Stay tuned.
Here's a view from the front. It will look to be an extension of the first floor concrete roof.
Since the fascia is level and the roof pitches, the curb varies in height. We're leaning towards a couple scuppers to let the water drain out.
We have also started interior partition framing. This is the Master Bedroom suite.
Here's the bathroom/kitchenette/closet in the Guest Suite
These are the 'pods' that separate the main living space from the Prep Kitchen and Office. They are basically free standing room dividers that house back to back cabinets.
Here's another shot. The pods will get a wrap of dark wood, which will contrast with the glossy white european style cabinets. Hopefully this will make more sense as we get a little further along.
We've also commenced work on the exterior stucco. The system starts with a layer of 1 1/2" foam, which is adhered to the ICF's/plywood with a cementitious adhesive. This is the end wall of the garage with the foam in place.
We are going to cut in some grooves in a rectangular pattern to create panels and a little more detail.
The foam terminates at the bottom in a plastic drip edge that has weep holes to allow any water that penetrates the system to escape. Where we are placing the foam over Ice & Water Shield the foam is mechanically attached.
Here's the drip edge running up the slope on the side of the garage that is mostly underground. we opted to slope the bottom of the stucco rather than step it up the way the foundation does.
Wherever we have a penetration or need to mount something to the side of the house, we install an inch and a half of plywood to act as a base. The gold color is from a primer the crew applies so they can stucco right over the plywood. Here is a box for a light fixture but we'll use the same detail for hose bibbs, exhaust vents, etc.
Here's a shot of the back of the garage showing more foam and plywood backers in place. The square backer in the bottom center is for an eventual garage exhaust fan - gotta mention garage stuff whenever I can, right?
I'll finish up with a wide angle shot to give you some perspective. You can see all the roof blocking we've installed. The tapered insulation will start level with the back blocking and end up level with the front blocking.
Well that's about it for now. Metal framing should be complete by mid week after which we can start roughing in plumbing, mechanical and electrical. Stucco will take several more weeks during which we'll also tackle the clapboard siding. Once all the siding is done, it's time for a roof. Stay tuned.
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Keep up the great work.
ct71rr
Well-known member
Wow!! Looks awesome. It's really starting to come together now. Thanks for the update!!
Are you going to have it closed up for winter Doug ?
I am sure he is hoping so!
HOTFR8
Banned
I am guessing the steel frame work inside would be quick to assemble.
cj7365
Well-known member
wow, with only concrete and metal studs, that house will be there for at least a couple of years
Jagmandave
Well-known member
Don't the windows have to go in before the stucco goes on?
Justanoldguy
Well-known member
HOTFR8
Banned
Yep.
I've done a heap of that work.
Used to see many of them here and now not so many. Put a house up with a spanner.
Bib Overalls
Well-known member
Around here virtually all commercial construction is with metal studs. Residential is almost completely stick framed.
It's going to be close Nutts. The delay in completeing the concrete structure meant that I couldn't field measure for windows. I probably won't see them until November.
It's quick but it's also more true than wood framing resulting in flatter and straighter walls.
Because the windows won't be here for a while, I had to develop details to allow the stucco and clapboard siding to go first. Keep in mind that the windows are not flanged like most residential windows. They more like commercial windows that sit inside the openings and rely on caulking to seal them up.
On your interior steel stud walls, will you be using something like a blown on cellulose insulation for sound control?
I've come to the conclusion that I wish all of my interior walls and ceilings had been done that way. Unfortunately, we are the second owners. On the exterior walls of an unfinished room we just built out, we had 1-2" of close cell foam sprayed on, then the blown on cellulose out to the edge of the studs. This area is the quietist and most
comfortable room in our home.
It's really been fun following your build-thanks again for sharing this.
GGB
I've come to the conclusion that I wish all of my interior walls and ceilings had been done that way. Unfortunately, we are the second owners. On the exterior walls of an unfinished room we just built out, we had 1-2" of close cell foam sprayed on, then the blown on cellulose out to the edge of the studs. This area is the quietist and most
comfortable room in our home.
It's really been fun following your build-thanks again for sharing this.
GGB
M-technik-3
Well-known member
Nice to see progression been awhile since I have viewed this thread. Look forward to seeing completed project.
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Hottrod
Well-known member
I love seeing these updates, this build continues to impress: glad to see the progress being made - keep up the awesome work, things are really moving now!
Quick question: Does the stucco come tinted or do you have to paint it afterwards?
Quick question: Does the stucco come tinted or do you have to paint it afterwards?
Wow. All I can say is wow. I saw this thread in the morning, and couldn't stop reading it all day. Now I can't wait to see the progress.
Beautiful location as well.
You owe me a day of work for captivating me all day with this thread. lol. Awesome.
Beautiful location as well.
You owe me a day of work for captivating me all day with this thread. lol. Awesome.