To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The Everything 3D Printer Thread

purplezr2

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
5,290
Location
Central MN
So thinking about getting a new printer. Currently have a Flashforge Guider. It works well thought I have issue with it printing undersize holes, with no good way to fix it.

I would like to do multiple colors and print things like ABS well. I like that my current printer has an enclosure. Also Camera would be nice too have.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ER70S-2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
796
@loganb I printed a few of the ones that look like Wera handles and I really like them. I heated the files up slightly so the handles bonded nicely to them when I pressed them on.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,495
Location
Omaha, NE
@loganb I printed a few of the ones that look like Wera handles and I really like them. I heated the files up slightly so the handles bonded nicely to them when I pressed them on.

I was wondering about doing that, thanks for the confirmation! The non-Wera style handle has the largest tang holder, and I think I really like that in theory(see how it aligns with practice) as that handle aligns more with how I normally hold the files when going for heavier material removal. The Wera style handle which I'm partial to already then work more for some detail type work. I've got another set of 3 going now then will take stock of my file collection tonight and see which ones I really need to print and load up a longer print after switching to some black material.

For anyone curious, links are below:


 

cherokee

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2010
Messages
980
Location
Kansas City MO
Mine is also just a toy. My big project this weekend was basically a "V" shaped troft so when I change the oil in my compressor I can route it away from the compressor so it will not just dump all over the tank. I also made a troft to channel the water off of the AC into my rain barrels, why waste it.

Nothing really major.

I think the real only thing I made that is useful was a battery tray for my Fiero. It has held up very well, I was worried about the heat back there, it is a fiero after all and have that rep, so I was ready for the PLA to turn into goo, but that has not happened I am not sure why. I guess it is vented back there better then I figured.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,495
Location
Omaha, NE
Looks like they offer 3 options now. I'm honestly not sure which one to pick....

If the budget exists, X1C. Just get it all, enclosed, AMS etc. Once you have an enclosure you'll find out ABS is an awesome material to print with, and several of the other higher performance ones just work once you have an enclosure and can control temp better. The people here and others I know that have an X1C all love the AMS/color change and I haven't found someone yet who bought an X1C who wishes they would've bought the less optioned, slower model
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
If the budget exists, X1C. Just get it all, enclosed, AMS etc. Once you have an enclosure you'll find out ABS is an awesome material to print with, and several of the other higher performance ones just work once you have an enclosure and can control temp better. The people here and others I know that have an X1C all love the AMS/color change and I haven't found someone yet who bought an X1C who wishes they would've bought the less optioned, slower model
Exactly this. The X1C has it all and will not leave you wishing you'd bought it in the first place. He's spot on about ABS as well. It's a really nice material to print with. I have two X1C's and I'm very happy with them.
 

jayz66ragtop

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
1,521
Location
SoCal
If the budget exists, X1C. Just get it all, enclosed, AMS etc. Once you have an enclosure you'll find out ABS is an awesome material to print with, and several of the other higher performance ones just work once you have an enclosure and can control temp better. The people here and others I know that have an X1C all love the AMS/color change and I haven't found someone yet who bought an X1C who wishes they would've bought the less optioned, slower model

100% this. I have a co-worker that has a Prusa that he prints drone parts for and asked what materials I've printed with. Gave him the alphabet soup list and his comment was "whoa, doesn't ABS put off nasty fumes" and all I could say is "I barely smell anything with the X1C. He looked up the specs and said that'll probably be his next printer.
 

sh944

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Jan 1, 2014
Messages
291
Location
Linwood, KS
Add me to the list of satisfied X1C users. Its a solid machine that does what it advertises, without much muss or fuss. The only thing I'd have asked for was a slightly more robust, quieter cooling fan, but one of my engineers already replaced it.
 

ER70S-2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
796
100% this. I have a co-worker that has a Prusa that he prints drone parts for and asked what materials I've printed with. Gave him the alphabet soup list and his comment was "whoa, doesn't ABS put off nasty fumes" and all I could say is "I barely smell anything with the X1C. He looked up the specs and said that'll probably be his next printer.

All a Prusa needs is an enclosure and a hardened nozzle to print any material, and it would still cost less than an X1C. I'm not dissing the X1C at all. It's a nice machine. If I wasn't already invested in a Prusa and a nice enclosure, an X1C would be on my list.
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
All a Prusa needs is an enclosure and a hardened nozzle to print any material, and it would still cost less than an X1C. I'm not dissing the X1C at all. It's a nice machine. If I wasn't already invested in a Prusa and a nice enclosure, an X1C would be on my list.
What’s the nice enclosure?
 

ER70S-2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
796
What’s the nice enclosure?
After much deliberation, I went with one from Clearview Plastics. They don't offer the model that I bought anymore, but I ended up getting one designed for the MMU because I have my printer on a paver (I needed the extra height). The panels themselves are beautiful, but the 3d printed parts that it came with were trash. I'm not even sure why they sent me printed parts because I didn't select that option or pay for them. I reprinted all the parts which I intended to do anyway.

Everything worked out in the end, but if anyone intends to buy from them, beware that most of the images on their website are renders and that some pics of a specific item might show different options, hardware, or printed parts, so it's really hard to know what you'll actually get without asking LOTS of questions.

 

AirMech#406

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2021
Messages
142
Looks like they offer 3 options now. I'm honestly not sure which one to pick....
Add me to the list of X1C fan-boys. For a few hundred dollars more than a Prusa MK4, you get way more bang for your buck. I dont hate Prusa, they have done a TON for 3d printing, but Bambu is simply a better machine in just about every metric.
If $1500 isnt in your budget though, and you would still like to multi-color print in ABS, I wouldn't hesitate to go for the P1S w/ an AMS if I were you.
 

jayz66ragtop

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
1,521
Location
SoCal
All a Prusa needs is an enclosure and a hardened nozzle to print any material, and it would still cost less than an X1C. I'm not dissing the X1C at all. It's a nice machine. If I wasn't already invested in a Prusa and a nice enclosure, an X1C would be on my list.
I'm not knocking the Prusa either, I was -><- close to buying one until I stumbled upon the X1C kickstarter. Had the kickstarter form filled out then closed the tab three or four times before just going for it and hoping I didn't just lose $1K. Hell, I even cancelled my original pledge and went for the big daddy (X1C with AMS) instead of my original X1 without AMS. There were just too many pluses for the X1C vs just about any 3D printer out there at that time.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,495
Location
Omaha, NE
11” long spindle liner for the CNC chucker lathe printed on the XL. The bed adhesion even after the bed had cooled was quite impressive. Filament is Prusament PETG that’s been open for almost four years. No doubt my high desert climate helped the filament.

IMG_2515.jpeg

IMG_2516.jpeg

IMG_2517.jpeg

Perfect example of a type of part I would not want to try on a "bed slinger" style machine without adding tree supports or something to keep the top end from wobbling. Nice work!
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
Perfect example of a type of part I would not want to try on a "bed slinger" style machine without adding tree supports or something to keep the top end from wobbling. Nice work!
I made a 6-7” version of this part on the i3 and it went really well. No need for support. I have never used supports. Granted, most of what I make is lots of tall vertical walls and not much if any overhang.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bessy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2012
Messages
992
Location
Ontario, Canada
Printed up a quick (5 minutes to design, 71 mins to print) replacement bushing for the handlebar on my bike. On recommendation from PT, I had been instructed that I should try and ride more upright where possible to avoid further strain on my lower back. Happened across an adjustable stem mount at one of those bin stores for $3, and while it fit the fork just fine, it took a 30mm handlebar, instead of the 25mm one that I have on my bike. Ironically, I ended up coming to the conclusion that I could print the part I needed to take up the space, while in the store, looking for a piece to use as a bushing... I will be on the look out for a slightly more red red to see if I can't match the paint on the bike better.
TrekHandleBarBushing.pngHandle Bar Bushing.jpg
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
The XL continues to impress with print quality. Parts coming off it are really nice. These hardware bins where waiting for me this morning. All but the upper right square bin are off the XL.

IMG_2749.jpeg

Detail of that label pocket overhang:
IMG_2750.jpeg

The X1C continues to win the speed race and the print quality is awesome. I'm hopeful the much-anticipated input shaping firmware will yield the expected speed improvements on the XL.

This stuff was spread out over my 4x8 work table. It always blows my mind how a little bit of organization condenses things so well.

IMG_2757.jpeg

IMG_2758.jpeg

These kind of photos are always fun to share. It's pretty cool to look at. Of course, there's a functional piece as well. All of these fasteners are in the database the label software uses.

In an effort to not accidentally grab fine thread I'm making their bins a different color:
IMG_2761.jpeg

I have a lot of the small Schaller bins that don't have labels, and more hardware that would benefit from being in the little bins. The Fusion model is all parameters. This makes different size bins a few mouse clicks. These turn out so nice. This is off the X1C:
IMG_2759.jpeg

Compared to similar Schaller bin:
IMG_2760.jpeg

I have a feeling I will have a LOT of Schaller bins to sell..
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
@slodat Those prints look great. I'm not convinced any other printer in the same realm can print better.
The XL definitely has the quality compared to the Bambu at “normal” speed. When the Bambu is slowed down to “silent” mode the print quality is pretty much flawless, as is the XL.

IMG_2762.jpeg

Comparison of the two. Same model, same slicer settings except for 0.4mm nozzle on the X1C and 0.6mm on the XL.

Both yield a great result. Paired together and it’s anything you want up to 14” cube, or fast af!
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
Came into some nice prints this morning. On the way out the door last night I came up with an idea for an organizer..

IMG_2764.jpeg

The X1C printed what I see as a perfect part.

IMG_2766.jpeg

The XL is still completing its overnight job:
1692547106098.png

The other X1C made these:
1692547072395.png

And the gray bins for fine pitch threads worked out great:
IMG_2770.jpeg

Having that different color will do the trick to help ensure the right stuff gets packed out.

Up next for the XL:
1692550086380.png
 
Last edited:

99LeCouch

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
1,053
Location
Rochester, NY
Printing up some slatwall hooks. Nothing fancy, just cheap black PLA. These won't see sun and the garage doesn't get too hot. Maybe 110*F at the hottest. These should be fine for light stuff.

Printer is a Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro with the Sonic Pad. I'm happy enough with it. I'm waiting to be able to vent the house before trying ASA prints. It may move into the garage in its enclosure to reduce fumes further for those prints.
 

Attachments

  • 20230820_212818.jpg
    20230820_212818.jpg
    616.5 KB · Views: 25

rslaback

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 24, 2010
Messages
4,061
Location
Westcentral Wisconsin
As I was gearing up to turn some Chinese ATV spindle bushings on the lathe tonight I was thinking that it might at least be worth a try to print some and save myself some machine work. The one thing I have not determined is to print them horizontally with supports or vertically. I almost think I want to go horizontally in order to get the strength of the layer grain going the right direction but I don't know that it really would matter and supportless vertically would be a lot cleaner. Hive mind, your thoughts?

1692591271789.png

For anyone not familiar with how a spindle works, here is a rudimentary drawing. The bushing push into the rotating section. There is a spacer with a bolt through it that sets the distance of the A arms and then these bushings rotate around that spacer. so the top flange carries the weight of the rider most of the time and the center bores rotate against the spacer when turning.

16925919080298870347942715321858.jpg
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,410
Location
Upstate New York
As I was gearing up to turn some Chinese ATV spindle bushings on the lathe tonight I was thinking that it might at least be worth a try to print some and save myself some machine work. The one thing I have not determined is to print them horizontally with supports or vertically. I almost think I want to go horizontally in order to get the strength of the layer grain going the right direction but I don't know that it really would matter and supportless vertically would be a lot cleaner. Hive mind, your thoughts?



For anyone not familiar with how a spindle works, here is a rudimentary drawing. The bushing push into the rotating section. There is a spacer with a bolt through it that sets the distance of the A arms and then these bushings rotate around that spacer. so the top flange carries the weight of the rider most of the time and the center bores rotate against the spacer when turning.
I would think a vertical orientation would be your best bet against the loading that you're going to give it. Stack of washers vs bundle of straws.
 

loganb

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
5,495
Location
Omaha, NE
Quick design to hold sanding disc's for random orbitals.

20230822_214148.jpg

Blue was first with 1/2" wide slots, thought they were a bit tight so quick tweak then 10 hrs later have black with 1" slots. I like the fit of the disc's in the black one better, so have another one running overnight. Will have to come up with a label as well
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom