The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[lilscorpion]

The only failed PLA print I have had was from leaving the P1S door open, the front bottom edges curled up.
I have never had a problem with PLA, Bambu or IIID-Max, with the door closed. 220 nozzle, 55 bed, 100% part cooling and 70% auxiliary cooling. I don’t remember what the exhaust fan runs at but it is running.

Never had stringing? This is the second time mine has done this. I don’t k is for sure if the door being closed is the problem or not. I only get adhesion problems in the back and it seems to happen when the aux fan is on. Found a post where a guy who has a bunch of different printers that don’t have enclosures don’t have this issues with bed adhesion.

I’m frustrated. Doesn’t make sense I can print non-stop for days and then I get a failed print and can’t get one to succeed no matter what I try until I swap out the hot end assembly. Kinda an expensive thing to do every week

 

[moab11]

I recently had a clog with ASA, but it was completely stopped up.

What I did was crank the nozzle to 300, then take the little pin thing that came with the printer and tried to free the clog from the bottom. That got it going ok, but not great. I then worked in some cleaning filament I bought a while ago. It took a few tries to get it to feed and flow freely (the extruder gear would kind of grind away the filament and then not grab). After that it has been working great again.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

Do I understand correctly that you are trying to print PLA with the door closed? Bambu specifically recommends keeping the door open when printing PLA, and the X1C will even warn if it thinks the door is closed.

 

[lilscorpion]

I recently had a clog with ASA, but it was completely stopped up.

What I did was crank the nozzle to 300, then take the little pin thing that came with the printer and tried to free the clog from the bottom. That got it going ok, but not great. I then worked in some cleaning filament I bought a while ago. It took a few tries to get it to feed and flow freely (the extruder gear would kind of grind away the filament and then not grab). After that it has been working great again.

Read up on cleaning filament. Sounds exactly like what my problem is. Thank,, I’ll get some and try.

I think there’s dust in the iiidmax PLA and that’s the culprit. Now I know someone’s going to tell me they run iiidmax PLA all the time and have no issues…I’ll find you, I swear…

For whatever reason there exists a 3D printing anomaly where at some people never have issues ever. Probably the same people still driving that 1987 Toyota Corolla that has 537k and still drives like it’s new with the original tires and wiper blades…

 

[lilscorpion]

Do I understand correctly that you are trying to print PLA with the door closed? Bambu specifically recommends keeping the door open when printing PLA, and the X1C will even warn if it thinks the door is closed.

Inadvertently closed the door before running an all night print. I usually keep it open.

 

[Poolshark314]

Do I understand correctly that you are trying to print PLA with the door closed? Bambu specifically recommends keeping the door open when printing PLA, and the X1C will even warn if it thinks the door is closed.

I've never left the door or lid open on any print and never had a clog. Over 1000 hours on an X1. Probably environment dependent

 

[draco_1967]

Same here. All my PLA prints have been with the door closed.

 

[Firstram]

Never had stringing? This is the second time mine has done this. I don’t k is for sure if the door being closed is the problem or not. I only get adhesion problems in the back and it seems to happen when the aux fan is on. Found a post where a guy who has a bunch of different printers that don’t have enclosures don’t have this issues with bed adhesion.

I’m frustrated. Doesn’t make sense I can print non-stop for days and then I get a failed print and can’t get one to succeed no matter what I try until I swap out the hot end assembly. Kinda an expensive thing to do every week

What build plate are you using and how often are you washing it?

A dusting of Aqua Net hair spray does wonders for adhesion!

 

[Firstram]

Never had stringing? This is the second time mine has done this. I don’t k is for sure if the door being closed is the problem or not. I only get adhesion problems in the back and it seems to happen when the aux fan is on. Found a post where a guy who has a bunch of different printers that don’t have enclosures don’t have this issues with bed adhesion.

I’m frustrated. Doesn’t make sense I can print non-stop for days and then I get a failed print and can’t get one to succeed no matter what I try until I swap out the hot end assembly. Kinda an expensive thing to do every week

To add to the expensive hot end conversation. I use cheap aftermarket hot ends with screw in nozzles, and I do mean cheap! A clogged nozzle would cost you a $1.50 to replace! Not to mention switching sizes is very quick and easy.

Hot End
Nozzle

You heat it up and change nozzles at 260C. The silicone boots ****, I used all OEM parts off of my spare hot ends. The OEM stuff seems a higher quality of Chinese.

 

[Poolshark314]

To add to the expensive hot end conversation. I use cheap aftermarket hot ends with screw in nozzles, and I do mean cheap! A clogged nozzle would cost you a $1.50 to replace! Not to mention switching sizes is very quick and easy.

Hot End
Nozzle

You heat it up and change nozzles at 260C. The silicone boots ****, I used all OEM parts off of my spare hot ends. The OEM stuff seems a higher quality of Chinese.

I'm still on my original nozzle, but I might grab some of those as spares. I saw the MicroSwiss ones that just came out and look really nice, but $80 is a little high lol

 

[moab11]

I'm on my second nozzle, I tried changing the original once and broke a connector, so this has been going ever since, with over a thousand print hours on it. So far I really don't see the need for an aftermarket nozzle unless you are trying to chase higher flow rates.

 

[Poolshark314]

I'm on my second nozzle, I tried changing the original once and broke a connector, so this has been going ever since, with over a thousand print hours on it. So far I really don't see the need for an aftermarket nozzle unless you are trying to chase higher flow rates.

The Microswiss ones are closer to most other FDM nozzles in that the nozzle can separate from the rest of the hotend, so changing a nozzle doesn't require disconnecting any wiring and risking a broken connector, theoretically lol

FlowTech™ Hotend for Bambu Lab X1 and P1 Printers

FlowTech™ Hotend for Bambu Lab Printers Microswiss FlowTech Hotend is designed with advanced features for optimized performance. Paired with Bondtech CHT High Flow Nozzles, this hotend delivers up to 50 mm³/sec for ultra-fast printing without compromising quality. Installation is simple and...

store.micro-swiss.com

 

[Firstram]

I'm on my second nozzle, I tried changing the original once and broke a connector, so this has been going ever since, with over a thousand print hours on it. So far I really don't see the need for an aftermarket nozzle unless you are trying to chase higher flow rates.

One of the things that motivated me to buy a printer was printing spiral vase foundry masters. That's 0.6 or 0.8 mm, little do-dads with tiny text need 0.2mm to be legible and the standard 0.4 for most work. If I'm in a hurry for something, sometimes a 0.6mm will take hours off of a 14 hour 0.4mm print and the quality is similar. It is nice to have options! I also understand the reinforced and wood filaments need larger nozzles too.

At the end of the day, I have 3 hot ends with a boatload of nozzles for little more than one OEM hot end!
On top of that, I don't have to fat finger those tiny plugs anymore either. That fact alone is worth the price of admission to me!

 

[moab11]

Yeah if I didn't have an assortment of fully built bambu hot ends, I'd switch out for a different one to change nozzles easier.
It's a good design, but does not lend to changing easily.

 

[lovetap]

Found a costume at the transfer site, "the dump" as others may call it, that was clean and complete except the ring that held the fan against the suit.



Made a simple ring in tinkercad and we're off to the races

 

[lovetap]

Now that my garage is heated it's time to move the printer from the loft, where I can print all night without earplugs. Would anyone like to post some enclosure inspiration? I'm thinking an MDF box with an acrylic door that I can mount to the wall. I'm guessing with the garage staying at 55F the heat from the printer will be enough without further insulation.

 

[loganb]

Think this one is done now, but dust collection for the factory Sawstop PCS overarm/riving knife guard. Snug fit onto the oversized 1.5" port, then goes up to a magnetic quick connect designed to mate up to these:

2-1/2" - 63mm / 64mm Magnetic Dust Collection Connectors / Fittings by blackjackbender | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Magnetic dust collection fittings for hoses and tools based around a 2-1/2", 63-64mm hose and tool sizing. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

Printed in matte PLA, 113 grams for both pieces.

 

[shoot summ]

Do I understand correctly that you are trying to print PLA with the door closed? Bambu specifically recommends keeping the door open when printing PLA, and the X1C will even warn if it thinks the door is closed.

I print PLA on the X1C exclusively with the door closed, no issues.

 

[ArcReactorKC]

I don't know how you guys are getting away with printing PLA with the door closed on your X1's.

I've clogged the nozzle twice due to a long PLA print causing heat creep.

I now have a home assistant automation that pops the door open a little with a servo motor specifically so this doesn't happen.

 

[Poolshark314]

@coldh2o Printed another one of these plier racks and it came out just as good. Even the bottom with the brim removed came out perfect

 

[moab11]

I've found that keeping the top glass cracked open about an inch is plenty on my X1C printing PLA. I'm using part of a failed print, but there are many models available to prop the lid open a bit. Much better than leaving the door open I think.

 

[Cruzan80]

Chiming in with others. Have printed a 24hr+ print on the X1's (think it was the C, not E, but not 100%) without issue with the door shut. We have used Hatchbox, Inland and Bambu filaments without issue as well. So maybe it is brand dependant? Running stock PLA settings for either Bambu or Generic.

 

[PCustoms]

Random thought after seeing a video today:

What are you doing with your scrap/waste filament?

 

[kaymccampbell]

Random thought after seeing a video today:

What are you doing with your scrap/waste filament?

Cooking it on a hotplate and making coasters? Sometimes I make it into crude sheet stock, when I need a chunk of plastic.

 

[moab11]

Random thought after seeing a video today:

What are you doing with your scrap/waste filament?

So far I have a bin I put all of my PLA waste in, hoping to be able to recycle it somehow soon.
The rest unfortunately has gone to the landfill, but would like to be able to avoid that too.

 

[jeepxj]

Free CAD Designs, Files & 3D Models | The GrabCAD Community Library

The GrabCAD Library offers millions of free CAD designs, CAD files, and 3D models. Join the GrabCAD Community today to gain access and download!

grabcad.com

 

[olds70supreme]

Cam bearing driver - 3D printed tool, 1/2" NPT pipe threads into on end to drive with. Printed w/ solid infill, this is helping me make good progress towards breaking even on money saved vs the printer cost. Now I need to just find more legitimate uses like this lol.

 

[loganb]

Some case inserts for a Festool Systainer to hold sandpaper discs with the machine for my new toy I mean tool

Model from: https://makerworld.com/en/models/989763#profileId-965181






It's a pretty significant amount of material at 1.2kg and change, printed in Bambu PLA on an A1, 10% infill. Pretty nice model and gets the consumables with the machine which was the goal. Debating on remodeling the lower insert with the allen key to make that slot wider so it too could take the 150mm(6") sanding discs. Based on his original print it was sized to hold the 125mm (5") sanding platen but I'd rather try and move that wrench cutout and make that slot bigger so I could stick discs or a pad there

 

[draco_1967]

My wife is the admin for the director of the R&D team at a medical device company. Her boss dropped this monster printer off last night. They were throwing it out, and he just didn't feel right about tossing it. He says it still works fine, they just got a fancier printer and don't need this any longer.

That's an 18" ruler on the bed! The print area is probably around 500mm2


It looks like it is Ender CR-10 based, with a Keenvo bed heater, E3D extruder, some kind of bed leveling, and filament run-out sensor. I don't know what firmware it is running. It should be interesting to play with, but I need a bigger table for it. Or I'll put it on the floor, I guess... The base is 24" x 28"

Of course I don't need another printer, but free is hard to say no to...

 

[Poolshark314]

My wife is the admin for the director of the R&D team at a medical device company. Her boss dropped this monster printer off last night. They were throwing it out, and he just didn't feel right about tossing it. He says it still works fine, they just got a fancier printer and don't need this any longer.

That's an 18" ruler on the bed! The print area is probably around 500mm2


It looks like it is Ender CR-10 based, with a Keenvo bed heater, E3D extruder, some kind of bed leveling, and filament run-out sensor. I don't know what firmware it is running. It should be interesting to play with, but I need a bigger table for it. Or I'll put it on the floor, I guess... The base is 24" x 28"

Of course I don't need another printer, but free is hard to say no to...

Is that an Ender Extender kit?

 

[kaymccampbell]

My wife is the admin for the director of the R&D team at a medical device company. Her boss dropped this monster printer off last night. They were throwing it out, and he just didn't feel right about tossing it. He says it still works fine, they just got a fancier printer and don't need this any longer.

That's an 18" ruler on the bed! The print area is probably around 500mm2


It looks like it is Ender CR-10 based, with a Keenvo bed heater, E3D extruder, some kind of bed leveling, and filament run-out sensor. I don't know what firmware it is running. It should be interesting to play with, but I need a bigger table for it. Or I'll put it on the floor, I guess... The base is 24" x 28"

Of course I don't need another printer, but free is hard to say no to...

You ****.

 

[draco_1967]

Is that an Ender Extender kit?

I have no idea. Probably?

You ****.

Why thank you!
It is rare that I find a deal that is "you ****" worthy

I honestly don't know what I'll do with this thing. There have been very few things I've wanted to print that would use this much build volume. Maybe I'll start with a giant benchy.

 

[zanyad]

My wife is the admin for the director of the R&D team at a medical device company. Her boss dropped this monster printer off last night. They were throwing it out, and he just didn't feel right about tossing it. He says it still works fine, they just got a fancier printer and don't need this any longer.

That's an 18" ruler on the bed! The print area is probably around 500mm2


It looks like it is Ender CR-10 based, with a Keenvo bed heater, E3D extruder, some kind of bed leveling, and filament run-out sensor. I don't know what firmware it is running. It should be interesting to play with, but I need a bigger table for it. Or I'll put it on the floor, I guess... The base is 24" x 28"

Of course I don't need another printer, but free is hard to say no to...

You ****.

You ****.

 

[Citation]

While it might be fun to get parts or if that things in not sure how much use it would be. If anything is wrong then you have a project. It appears to be missing a build plate so you need to get that. I also suspect it's going to be slow. Slow isn't such a big deal on small printers but once you start talking about 400x400x400 build volumes show can mean really really long print times.

If it were me, I would let curiosity get the best of me. Spend money to fix the damn thing, print a few test parts then either try to give it away or leave it sitting on a corner just in case I ever need to actually print something larger than my current good printer or current shelf queen (longer lk5 pro with a 300x300x400 build volume... and slow print speeds).

Probably best I didn't get one.

 

[draco_1967]

It has a clear glass build plate on it. I fired it up, and it is running an older version of Marlin (TH3D U1.R2.14). I need to do some research on how to set up a printer like this for slicing, then I can run some calibration prints. The heated bed has its own controller (with a separate power cord), which is interesting. It is a direct drive extruder, and it looks like the extruder gear might be pretty worn.
I don't plan on spending much (if any) money on this. It should run as it is, and my wife's boss can connect me with the guy who built it if I have any big issues getting it going. I really have no need for a build volume this large. Maybe I can cannibalize it to build a laser engraver or something... Not that I need one of those either

 

[kaymccampbell]

It has a clear glass build plate on it. I fired it up, and it is running an older version of Marlin (TH3D U1.R2.14). I need to do some research on how to set up a printer like this for slicing, then I can run some calibration prints. The heated bed has its own controller (with a separate power cord), which is interesting. It is a direct drive extruder, and it looks like the extruder gear might be pretty worn.
I don't plan on spending much (if any) money on this. It should run as it is, and my wife's boss can connect me with the guy who built it if I have any big issues getting it going. I really have no need for a build volume this large. Maybe I can cannibalize it to build a laser engraver or something... Not that I need one of those either

Laser engravers are fun. It's the artwork that I most enjoy. I've got one that has paid for itself, and it's now paying off the hotter diode head and ventilation system that I bought for it.

 

[ArcReactorKC]

It has a clear glass build plate on it. I fired it up, and it is running an older version of Marlin (TH3D U1.R2.14). I need to do some research on how to set up a printer like this for slicing, then I can run some calibration prints. The heated bed has its own controller (with a separate power cord), which is interesting. It is a direct drive extruder, and it looks like the extruder gear might be pretty worn.
I don't plan on spending much (if any) money on this. It should run as it is, and my wife's boss can connect me with the guy who built it if I have any big issues getting it going. I really have no need for a build volume this large. Maybe I can cannibalize it to build a laser engraver or something... Not that I need one of those either

I would bet the bed is run off a SSR, same style of control as a PCB heated bed. Just more powa.

 

[250]

I started looking into 3d printing after my son got into lego trains, and the total lack of variety (and high price) of track pieces. Hard to justify a printer for that, but after stumbling across the gridfinity organization method for shop organization, it might be time to take the plunge. I don't want to tinker with printers, so for the most part, Bambu's X1c has been the top of the list. What I can't reassure myself of is if layering lines can be eliminated enough for satisfaction w/out laborious post processing techniques? To dumb it down, can I print a box that looks really good right off the plate?

I'd really like to see something in person, anything that might help fight the paralysis from anaylist. Perhaps I can purchase a sample from someone to see the posibilities?

 

[Firstram]

I started looking into 3d printing after my son got into lego trains, and the total lack of variety (and high price) of track pieces. Hard to justify a printer for that, but after stumbling across the gridfinity organization method for shop organization, it might be time to take the plunge. I don't want to tinker with printers, so for the most part, Bambu's X1c has been the top of the list. What I can't reassure myself of is if layering lines can be eliminated enough for satisfaction w/out laborious post processing techniques? To dumb it down, can I print a box that looks really good right off the plate?

I'd really like to see something in person, anything that might help fight the paralysis from anaylist. Perhaps I can purchase a sample from someone to see the posibilities?

The layering lines can be damn near invisible, it depends on the type of filament and settings. How perfect do you need it to be?

 

[LS1-IROC]

I started looking into 3d printing after my son got into lego trains, and the total lack of variety (and high price) of track pieces. Hard to justify a printer for that, but after stumbling across the gridfinity organization method for shop organization, it might be time to take the plunge. I don't want to tinker with printers, so for the most part, Bambu's X1c has been the top of the list. What I can't reassure myself of is if layering lines can be eliminated enough for satisfaction w/out laborious post processing techniques? To dumb it down, can I print a box that looks really good right off the plate?

I'd really like to see something in person, anything that might help fight the paralysis from anaylist. Perhaps I can purchase a sample from someone to see the posibilities?

If you go the Bambu route, which I can't recommend enough to people, hopefully you have a microcenter nearby because you can't order them to the US right now. I was on their site yesterday poking around because a co-worker was interested in ordering one after he witnessed mine printing ...he was bummed because our closest MC is 100 miles away.