The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Got the 5M Pro today at a local liquidator. Purchased as "open box" but it's new, never been unboxed. $215 out the door.
The Bambu printers are on sale at a bunch of places right now, the P1S Combo is down to $699 with the original AMS and $819 with the AMS2, I believe the AMS2 has built in drying and is faster at switching material, among other improvements. Best Buy, Micro Center, and the Bambu site have them on sale. All the other Bambu printers are also on sale.
I am very close to pulling the trigger on a P1S. But there is so much bad stuff on the web about Bambu and the software. So I have I hope a simple question for people that have a Bambu printer. Can I run the tools, and the printer, without connection to the web? I'll open access in general for firmware updates if I think I need them, but in general I don't want the printer or the SW to talk to the web. If my designs have to go to a cloud somewhere to print, well then I'll have to explore other options...
draco_1967
Well-known member
You can run the printer unconnected. You would transfer files for printing on an SD card. You lose the camera and monitoring ability of being online, but it still prints.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
As said before, yes. I made a simple box to tape next to the screen to hold a Micro-SD->USB stick, so it would be harder to misplace it when moving back/forth. Be aware, the firmware for the printer and the slicer firmware do occasionally need to "match" (if you update your printer firmware after a long time, it may force you to update the slicer as well). If you don't have the right color selected in the slicer, you can manually tell it which colors to use when printing on the screen.
For downloading files from MakerWorld, you need to make an account, IIRC, or it puts a limit on the number of downloads. Depending on model, itat be a .STL or a .3MF (what Bambu Slicer uses to save). If it is a 3mf, you are able to save individual .STL files from within the slicer if needed.
For downloading files from MakerWorld, you need to make an account, IIRC, or it puts a limit on the number of downloads. Depending on model, itat be a .STL or a .3MF (what Bambu Slicer uses to save). If it is a 3mf, you are able to save individual .STL files from within the slicer if needed.
draco_1967
Well-known member
Happy to help! 
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
All of my bambu's are set in my firewall to not have access to the internet, I still use orcaslicer to send the files over the network and can see the cameras over my internal network. This enables me to use home assistant through MQTT to control a lot of what they do and still get notifications without letting them speak to bambu servers. Just enable lan mode in the interface.
Thank you. I’ll do the same with my router.
Edited to add: I bought a P1S today. Obviously there is going to be a learning curve.
I'm looking forward to learning new tools.
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On ebay the Flashforge 5M is $220 from the company account. That's where I got mine. The 5M pro is also on sale but if you are mostly PLA the open frame 5M is good.
I might as well get a good one that do composites for stuff like Intake manifolds and car parts. But it would be nice to get something closer to click to print like bambu but it seems the eaiser to use the more anti consumer and locked down they are. I think I was looking at the k2 plus or one the big new ones. They poop though and multi head technology is starting to come out so it will be outdated in 16 months, mti head has way way less waste
Two of my sibs got K2s and have been happy with them. If you are printing things like manifolds I can imagine wanting to be anything less than a 300mm build size. Ideally bigger.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I've been happy with the K2+'s we've got now. They have been running in production for a couple weeks without much hiccup.
All are running engineering filaments (ABS, ASA, Nylon) on 0.6mm nozzles. I've been pretty happy with them and the quality/reliability has been just as good if not better than the X1C's and having the larger build plate has been great.
On the other end I haven't been able to get any of the Prusa XL units we got in just a little bit ago to work worth a damn, to be fair they are all running multimaterial with 3 or more toolheads. So the process is more complicated/convoluted in general. Regardless though the experience is more tinker, less click-print.
On the far other end of the spectrum I have an orange storm giga on the way I am planning to put a coprint system on for some of my larger multimaterial prints. I am expecting to spend a few days just getting it calibrated and dialed in though. I just got the plexi panels in for the enclosure so it'll be a fun/frustrating project I am sure.
Have you messaged prusa yet?
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Designed some different shape bins for the HF organizers.
Bins for Harbor Freight 20 Bin Portable Storage Case by Firebrick43 | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Additional variations to Armourcrafts excellent HF bins. | Download free 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com
Cc_windsurfer
Well-known member
Try that sometime. In 6-12 hours you will get a completely useless response
What is the table?Designed some different shape bins for the HF organizers.
Bins for Harbor Freight 20 Bin Portable Storage Case by Firebrick43 | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Additional variations to Armourcrafts excellent HF bins. | Download free 3D printable STL modelswww.printables.com
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Corona MFT build.
I started building this bench 2 years ago and got busy with life and other projects. Well the wuhan/ corona virus panic of 2020 is going to allow me lots of time to finish it. So as seen above I have bought a six pack of Corona, a juicy lime, and back to work, hopefully finish it. I have...
www.garagejournal.com
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I have, but these are more calibration issues than downright "won't print" issues.
To be transparent I've also never been a prusa fanboy and have criticized them for directions they have taken on many iterations of their machines. Buying these XL's was a last ditch effort as I've run out of time to tinker with my own designs. I was more than ready to be unhappy with these machines from the get go. A portion of this is growing pains working in Prusa Slicer as I had gone from Cura to Orcaslicer a few years ago. While prusa slicer and orca share many similarities they are not identical.
Now on the other hand my SV08 I migrated to mainline klipper and coprint is now printing along working production like I had hoped for it a long time ago.
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
This is painfully accurate.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
Don't get me wrong the XL is a decent machine and put together well. It is the only multi-head out of the box in its price range I am aware of.
If you are printing as a hobby it would be well worth the investment, but if you are printing for profit it'll be a let down initially. As I narrow in some of the calibration each one is getting better and better. I was really hoping for an out of the box slice and print solution but as of this moment I don't think that is realistic for a multi-toolhead machine.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I think I was about $4100 ea. for my 5x 5 toolhead machines.
It sounds like a lot but I've got more than that into failed printer designs that never made a complete print.
Hell I bet I had over $5k into my E3D toolchanger that has never been completed.
It sounds like a lot but I've got more than that into failed printer designs that never made a complete print.
Hell I bet I had over $5k into my E3D toolchanger that has never been completed.
cody1325
Well-known member
Finally got the Flashforge 5M on order today. USPS is supposed to deliver it tomorrow.
I also decided to start throwing the "junk" out of the basement so I can use it for hobby stuff. Thus, I'm getting rid of a treadmill that hasn't seen use in a decade, and an air hockey table that warped from a variety of factors (mostly relating to having been used as a table and workbench--often loaded down).
However, as I have been moving stuff around, I'm curious what surfaces would be appropriate to set it down on.
I'm eventually filling that corner with secondhand kitchen cabinets/counters (and getting wall outlets installed--there's only a handful in the basement, and all but two are ceiling-mount), but have a sizeable old dining room table (15 year old Kmart special) that otherwise isn't being used, as well as a small section of cabinetry I can easily move. Would that be appropriate for the time being?
I also decided to start throwing the "junk" out of the basement so I can use it for hobby stuff. Thus, I'm getting rid of a treadmill that hasn't seen use in a decade, and an air hockey table that warped from a variety of factors (mostly relating to having been used as a table and workbench--often loaded down).
However, as I have been moving stuff around, I'm curious what surfaces would be appropriate to set it down on.
I'm eventually filling that corner with secondhand kitchen cabinets/counters (and getting wall outlets installed--there's only a handful in the basement, and all but two are ceiling-mount), but have a sizeable old dining room table (15 year old Kmart special) that otherwise isn't being used, as well as a small section of cabinetry I can easily move. Would that be appropriate for the time being?
You got one of those filament recycling machines to reuse failed prints?
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I seriously thought about going down that route after building my railcore.
So glad I didnt
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I was super excited when they released it. I bought a bunch of parts and started putting it all together. When I first started it was before I had started working with klipper and was trying to build the whole thing around RepRap firmware. I was not good at it then, and I'm still not now. I used the e3d files for a jumping off point but of course being me I thought I could make it better as well my physical construction didn't exactly match their intended.
I was able to get single material prints to work just fine but I never got multitoolhead prints tuned well enough to call them "good" as well it was extremely slow by todays standards and was most often running at a max of 90mm/s. I think at that time firmware limitations and a volcano hotend were the biggest hold up on real fast prints.
I am thinking I might repurpose some of the kinematics for my next SV08 toolchanger.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Lots of people on the Facebook printer pages I watch have similar stories to yours.
I think the biggest problem with most tool change heads is that they have to much weight and inertia
I am even switching over (when I get time)my rail core to a orbiterv3 just to get the inertia down and my bondtech set up is pretty light for a direct drive extruder and hotend
I think the biggest problem with most tool change heads is that they have to much weight and inertia
I am even switching over (when I get time)my rail core to a orbiterv3 just to get the inertia down and my bondtech set up is pretty light for a direct drive extruder and hotend
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I am hopeful that the bondtech INDX system will be a true game changer and we will see some more innovation in the toolchanger space. I'm planning to build a new voron around it just to see how it goes.
It looks really cool, I signed up to be a tester for it. So far they have sent me two questionnaires about what printers I have and about my technical background. So hopefully I am being considered. I also am backing the Wondermaker 4 head printer, it looks pretty good so far.
pcrov
Well-known member
I posted this over in the "what are these pointy things" thread but thought I'd show off share it here too.
This is my centerline attachment for calipers. The model is parametric so you can customize them as you like. I've only been learning 3d modeling for a few days but I found this project super satisfying. It's wild the kind of detail you can iterate on.
And here's the model on onshape: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f...3fa7cacef4a89fc151/e/134bfeab7fcc5e4b6fa7210f
Copy to tweak the variables to your liking.
This is my centerline attachment for calipers. The model is parametric so you can customize them as you like. I've only been learning 3d modeling for a few days but I found this project super satisfying. It's wild the kind of detail you can iterate on.
And here's the model on onshape: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/f...3fa7cacef4a89fc151/e/134bfeab7fcc5e4b6fa7210f
Copy to tweak the variables to your liking.
Attachments
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
No stencil lines. Plus, I really like Futura. 
ptt49er
Well-known member
Stencils w/ no lines...what a great idea!
goneracin
Active member
pardon my dumb question here, but are you painting the numbers and letters or printing 2 color?Blue = Metric
Red = SAE
Black = triple square, torx, other non-denominational bits.
Gotta go through my garage and find my missing metric sockets, lol.
Jehannum
Well-known member
printing 2 color