Cruzan80
Well-known member
Snap-Flash. Since it is a snappy Flashforge...
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
LeonardY
Well-known member
BobTook delivery of and setup the Flashforge Adventurer 5M. It's currently printing the plinth at 9x the speed of the Ender.
Any suggestions on case colors or a snappy name for it? All comments from the peanut gallery gladly accepted.
Glad you got a new printer rather than modifying the old one.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Except Flashforge's colors were originally blue and white ... Maybe an "alternate universe" look?
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
The Adventurer found a knot in the new spool of PETG. Needless to say I came down to it going like hell over the air. Purged and restarted.
No color suggestions other than black. My enclosure was all black because I had it. I do have some suggestions for the enclosure. First, reduce the infill % on the top parts. I was able to get mine printed with about 1kg of filament vs the 1.4 (or what ever it is) simply by greatly reducing the infill density on those bulky top parts. No reason for them to be so dense. I also just used PLA. The parts just don't get so hot that I was worried about using PETG. Again, PLA is what I normally print.
The second warning when printing the enclosure is watch out for the ~1" tall, 1/8" wide part that goes above the original screen location. I had a few print failures with that part and it took me a bit to understand the issue. I think the way I first tried to print it was right off the 3MF files. The infill pattern was, I think, just a grid at 45* to the build plate that changed direction every few layers. Given the part it was a horrible choice. The problem is when the infill is parallel to the long axis of the part they act a bit like guitar strings pulling on the neck of a guitar. As the plastic cools it contracts a bit. All that tension causes the end of the part to lift from the bed. I think I solved the issue by changing the infill pattern and using my painter's tape build plate. However, I really wished I had simply designed an alternative to that section of the FF design. I would rather leave the screen in it's original location and redesign that front plastic part. I think some people have. The way the screen mounts to the DIY enclosure was far and away my least favorite part of the project.
The second warning when printing the enclosure is watch out for the ~1" tall, 1/8" wide part that goes above the original screen location. I had a few print failures with that part and it took me a bit to understand the issue. I think the way I first tried to print it was right off the 3MF files. The infill pattern was, I think, just a grid at 45* to the build plate that changed direction every few layers. Given the part it was a horrible choice. The problem is when the infill is parallel to the long axis of the part they act a bit like guitar strings pulling on the neck of a guitar. As the plastic cools it contracts a bit. All that tension causes the end of the part to lift from the bed. I think I solved the issue by changing the infill pattern and using my painter's tape build plate. However, I really wished I had simply designed an alternative to that section of the FF design. I would rather leave the screen in it's original location and redesign that front plastic part. I think some people have. The way the screen mounts to the DIY enclosure was far and away my least favorite part of the project.
Poolshark314
Well-known member
larry4406
Well-known member
Flash GordonTook delivery of and setup the Flashforge Adventurer 5M. It's currently printing the plinth at 9x the speed of the Ender.
Any suggestions on case colors or a snappy name for it? All comments from the peanut gallery gladly accepted.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
f-squared or fx2
It ***** it went down ..but In good news you confirmed it's a valuable part of the display and that it's worth doing and maybe leaning in harder to draw more people in
Damon L.
Well-known member
I am building a thein baffle to improve my dust collector separation, and needed to make the 4" intake duct tangent to the main housing. Rather than piece something together with plywood and PVC, I just fired up solidworks and printed exactly what I needed.
I may upload this one, as it saves a bunch of time over building something.
I may upload this one, as it saves a bunch of time over building something.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm struggling with something on my P1s that maybe someone here knows how to deal with.
I've been sending print files to the printer so my son can run them when he switches build plates. It worked great before I started messing around with colors but now fails every time. The model color matches (down to the RGB code) between the model and what I am telling it is in the AMS, but I get an error every time. Works find if I print directly from bambu studio (vs sending the file and printing from the printer)
I'll try it again tonight and share the error code, but figured I'd share to see if someone knows rhe fix
I've been sending print files to the printer so my son can run them when he switches build plates. It worked great before I started messing around with colors but now fails every time. The model color matches (down to the RGB code) between the model and what I am telling it is in the AMS, but I get an error every time. Works find if I print directly from bambu studio (vs sending the file and printing from the printer)
I'll try it again tonight and share the error code, but figured I'd share to see if someone knows rhe fix
Good catch.Just picked this up, another P1S but with the AMS2 Pro and a box of filament and supplies for 500. I already have a P1S so I will move one along. I've wanted to add an AMS for a while and a similar setup came up a couple of weeks ago and was gone in a day. So I saw this and figured why not. This machine has 81 hours on it, mine had 282.
pcrov
Well-known member
Without knowing the error this is a shot in the dark, but does the filament type match?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Can you manually assign the AMS slots on the printer when you try to print, or is it not letting you?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Maybe that's the issue. It's coded as #3 in the print, but I want it to pull from slot 1 or 2. I'll move the filament from. 1 to 4
3 when we start the next print in a couple hrs.
Cruzan80
Well-known member
The alignment between Bambu Studio and the printer shouldn't matter (aka. Bambi Studio has Black as color 1, but it is in slot 3).
I meant if it doesn't see the correct one, it will ask which one you want to use on the screen (at least the X1's). Can you then "manually" tell it? If not, I would also suspect a type mismatch (aka, if I slice it as PLA, it won't let me grab PLA-CF, even manually).
Any chance someone accidentally changed the type in the slicer program?
I meant if it doesn't see the correct one, it will ask which one you want to use on the screen (at least the X1's). Can you then "manually" tell it? If not, I would also suspect a type mismatch (aka, if I slice it as PLA, it won't let me grab PLA-CF, even manually).
Any chance someone accidentally changed the type in the slicer program?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The p1s just throws and error with no options to resolve at the unit.
I have to cancel and then print from studio
Cruzan80
Well-known member
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
aquinob
Well-known member
Making dust collection fittings is one of the things I've found the printer most useful for. I recently printed a 4" to (3) 2.5 adapter from a design I found on Thingiverse and a while back I printed a custom adapter for a pretty rare little bandsaw. That one my brother designed for me and it took several iterations to get it right.I am building a thein baffle to improve my dust collector separation, and needed to make the 4" intake duct tangent to the main housing. Rather than piece something together with plywood and PVC, I just fired up solidworks and printed exactly what I needed.
I may upload this one, as it saves a bunch of time over building something.
cody1325
Well-known member
Recently found a model for an R/C snow groomer like you might see leaving The Overlook Hotel...
Printables link
It's been a long while since I did anything with R/C vehicles. Just what I need: an expensive hobby that I can feed with another hobby!
I'm going to do similar.
Amazon's got lots of fairly cheap construction RC, but well--they ****. The less-expensive ones are not only often comically under-powered, but fragile. They tend to not use very good quality materials or electronics, and you usually can't buy parts that break. Looked at a track loader that uses an N20 motor with an attached planetary gearbox--one of those motors cost as much as the track loader and they are a known weak point.
Most of the stuff that can break on a 3D printed rig is printable (even though I plan to use something durable like PET-G or PCT-G, it still can break) or inexpensive off-the-shelf electronics. Thus, serviceable.
Ultimately, these are the "endgame" projects, but the components are rather pricey. And that's not even considering the filament.
PET-G should work fine at taking wear and damage at a decent price, but PCT-G has some colors I like better and is tougher (but about 2-3x more expensive).
However, my plans for beginning projects are the basic Cyberbrick stuff Bambu sells pre-assembled hardware and electronics kits for--like the truck, forklift, and dozer.
Fly Fishing Rick
Well-known member
Took a long time but I finally got all the components printed for my RepRack. Was about time too. Had spools of filament everywhere lol. Made with PETG and about $15 worth of 1/2" EMT conduit.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The plate had about 50 parts on it and my pc is really slow working this model, so I gave up on testing. Next weekend I'll have time to mess around more
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
The Adventure pumped out a few of these. Nice flat bottoms, not like the Ender.
Handed out a bunch this morning....see what the feedback comes back as.
Believe that was a 15 hr print for 24 nozzles in PETG. The 2 handed "snap test" is possible to break but it's tough. Will get some TPU and try that as well
What are these?Handed out a bunch this morning....see what the feedback comes back as.
Believe that was a 15 hr print for 24 nozzles in PETG. The 2 handed "snap test" is possible to break but it's tough. Will get some TPU and try that as well
extended caulk nozzles.
duneslider
Well-known member
In all seriousness, this seems like a really cool organization and if the need exists, I would consider buying another printer just to help out.
Great idea
Jehannum
Well-known member
Having too short a caulk can be embarrassing for sure.
Useful for deeper cavities becoming more common with 2x8 wall construction
There is a reason the ones I handed out aren't black....the jokes are just too easy
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Print them in red... Call them Red Rockets
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
And the tablesaw fence cover. Took a few tries to get it nice and strong. I was so tired of catching myself on the innards. I like that this printer allows me to iterate more frequently.
signcrafter
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 9, 2012
- Messages
- 12,318
Is there a thread about a newb getting into 3D printing? Didn't really want to ask a question that has been asked 100 times already. I started reading the post and will keep reading as time allows to learn what I can. I've kicked around the idea of getting a printer for a few years and think I'm ready to pull the trigger. But don't know much of anything about them. Also not not the biggest computer guy. I can get around and have done some sketch up work for laying out stuff for remodeling projects and did take a drafting/CAD course 25 years ago in high school. So not completely stupid but haven't kept up and probably forgot most if not everything I learned back then.
Want to get a machine and play around with it and see if I can figure it out. Just want to make things for shop organization, drawer dividers, hardware bins, holders for m12 and m18 batteries and tools(have bought a bunch online), etc. Is there a decent machine for a beginner? I was googling and since I really don't know what to look for in a machine it's hard to figure out what machines are decent. Prices are all over the place, don't want to spend 1000 dollars on something and not be able to figure it out. But also don't want to spend 200 on one and it be junk, is there a good middle of the line machine that isn't overly complicated to get up and running? I'm starting to look at file sharing on thingiverse and ready to buy a machine and see if I can get some things printed and learn as I go. Thanks for any advice or if there is already answers to all this if you have a link so I can go read it.
Want to get a machine and play around with it and see if I can figure it out. Just want to make things for shop organization, drawer dividers, hardware bins, holders for m12 and m18 batteries and tools(have bought a bunch online), etc. Is there a decent machine for a beginner? I was googling and since I really don't know what to look for in a machine it's hard to figure out what machines are decent. Prices are all over the place, don't want to spend 1000 dollars on something and not be able to figure it out. But also don't want to spend 200 on one and it be junk, is there a good middle of the line machine that isn't overly complicated to get up and running? I'm starting to look at file sharing on thingiverse and ready to buy a machine and see if I can get some things printed and learn as I go. Thanks for any advice or if there is already answers to all this if you have a link so I can go read it.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Any bambu machine.