mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Do you find Petg stays dimensionally stable over time?
I printed a part for my car interior in January and it was doing fine until we hit some hot days. It shrank and curved a bit
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
Do you find Petg stays dimensionally stable over time?
I printed a part for my car interior in January and it was doing fine until we hit some hot days. It shrank and curved a bit
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Some dash trim for a wireless charger. It was a tight fit when installed and now is a bit loose. Surprised me a bit.
thin?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes
Anyone using the Elegoo Slicer? For some reason I can't generate supports, every time I click on "enable support" all I get is a link to the WIKI. No support is generated, I even tried support painting with no success. I didn't seem to have this problem until lately. What am I doing wrong?
that'd be my guess. try PCTG.
@XJSuperman whats the deal on moisture in there. should I include desiccant packets?
Damon L.
Well-known member
I use that slicer, and don't have problems. Granted, there is an update available that I keep denying. Have you recently updated?
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Moisture would be no bueno in there. I've never seen desiccant inside one so I wouldn't add it now. Just keep the hat sealed and don't pressure wash it too closely. (Like any other electronic controllers)
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Assuming that is sitting in the sun all day? Would white be better?
Yes, I updated just a couple of days ago in an effort to correct the problem, no difference. It used to work as expected, I'll delete the slicer and reinstall. Any other slicer that would work such as Bamboo Studio?
Black300zx
Well-known member
Since my last post, I've pushed about another 2kg of PETG through my Ender 3 Max Neo without any printer-related problems, so I'm fairly certain I've got the heat creep issue fixed, at least at the speeds I'm printing. Bumped accel/decel up a bit on the Sonic Pad (2000 up to 2500), doubled the slow-layer speeds, inner/outer walls set at 100, infill at 120. Probably could push it a bit more but I'm at the point now where returns are probably diminishing and I don't want to run into any reliability issues.
Last project was an opportunity for me to get some seat time behind fusion since Solid Edge really lack tools to efficiently work with 3D scan data. My wife grabbed a radio-flyer big-wheel style trike for our 20month old son. He couldn't quite reach the pedals, so I scanned the trike body with my Creality CR-Scan Ferret and designed/printed him a booster seat and cup-holder. I didn't design in enough supports around the snap-fit features, causing them to not print properly, so it's got a bit of hot-glue holding it fully in place. Might re-print someday if needed.
I've been pretty happy with the CR-Scan Ferret. It's not perfect, but it's accurate enough to allow me to design stuff like this FAR more quickly that I would otherwise, and I can usually get it right within a couple iterations.
Last project was an opportunity for me to get some seat time behind fusion since Solid Edge really lack tools to efficiently work with 3D scan data. My wife grabbed a radio-flyer big-wheel style trike for our 20month old son. He couldn't quite reach the pedals, so I scanned the trike body with my Creality CR-Scan Ferret and designed/printed him a booster seat and cup-holder. I didn't design in enough supports around the snap-fit features, causing them to not print properly, so it's got a bit of hot-glue holding it fully in place. Might re-print someday if needed.
I've been pretty happy with the CR-Scan Ferret. It's not perfect, but it's accurate enough to allow me to design stuff like this FAR more quickly that I would otherwise, and I can usually get it right within a couple iterations.
we will be production in yellow.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That's awesome. I need a scannerSince my last post, I've pushed about another 2kg of PETG through my Ender 3 Max Neo without any printer-related problems, so I'm fairly certain I've got the heat creep issue fixed, at least at the speeds I'm printing. Bumped accel/decel up a bit on the Sonic Pad (2000 up to 2500), doubled the slow-layer speeds, inner/outer walls set at 100, infill at 120. Probably could push it a bit more but I'm at the point now where returns are probably diminishing and I don't want to run into any reliability issues.
Last project was an opportunity for me to get some seat time behind fusion since Solid Edge really lack tools to efficiently work with 3D scan data. My wife grabbed a radio-flyer big-wheel style trike for our 20month old son. He couldn't quite reach the pedals, so I scanned the trike body with my Creality CR-Scan Ferret and designed/printed him a booster seat and cup-holder. I didn't design in enough supports around the snap-fit features, causing them to not print properly, so it's got a bit of hot-glue holding it fully in place. Might re-print someday if needed.
I've been pretty happy with the CR-Scan Ferret. It's not perfect, but it's accurate enough to allow me to design stuff like this FAR more quickly that I would otherwise, and I can usually get it right within a couple iterations.
I got room for an Oring here. but the way the edge goes onto it no moisture is going to get in in. its more a humidity problem. think i need to go full Oring?
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Nah, its probably fine then. Time will tell, but by then the 3000s will probably be at end of life.I got room for an Oring here. but the way the edge goes onto it no moisture is going to get in in. its more a humidity problem. think i need to go full Oring?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Would it help to have a lip built into the dome to help shed water over that locking ring? And maybe ramp the top of the ring away from the dome?I got room for an Oring here. but the way the edge goes onto it no moisture is going to get in in. its more a humidity problem. think i need to go full Oring?
you and i both know farms dont believe in end of life like normal. some ukrainian will hack it and it'll be running on a ford N doing ditches in 2086.
I dont think so.
the green is the factory assembly. the red is my main retention piece. it would need to go back up to get there. i could probably put some drain slots on the bottom side to make sure its got an easy way out.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Ah, got it. That Pic helpsI dont think so.
the green is the factory assembly. the red is my main retention piece. it would need to go back up to get there. i could probably put some drain slots on the bottom side to make sure its got an easy way out.
Doing this in fusion?
yup
moab11
Well-known member
Just need to use the +500% feature when designing buildings for the print farm it seems haha
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Probably a metric/imperial issue
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
You didn't... Model the printers as just blocks... Right??I actually have a full size of the facility in fusion:
larry4406
Well-known member
down to the screws that hold the doors on
niget2002
Well-known member
Cruzan80
Well-known member
$$$$. compared to how often its needed to do it.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
why
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Because they are very easily to accidentally turn off
Thankfully the print was finished already
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
That's pretty slick. My 3D printer is a beast to reach the power switch. My solution was not so simple. I wrote code and flashed a Sonoff smart receptacle to do my bidding from the same PC that runs CAD, the slicer, and controls the printer.My printers are tight enough together that I don't have room to reach the power switches easily. I've been thinking about getting a PDU with switches for each plug so I can have some control up front but don't have a great spot for it.
I was poking around makerworld and this popped up
I printed one last night and is working great. Probably not ideal for someone turning their printer on and off all the time, but mine are on for long stretches. I used the 0.6mm nozzle profile, which doesn't have the provision for the lock, but I don't think I need it.
I'm going to print three, then reprint the little nub in red and install a p-touch label for on/off. And I got to use my dewalt construction jacks to help with the install
i'm trying to think of a way to make it a natural lock out.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Not installing the little nub would help. Could also print a little block that slides in and is tied off with a tether.
i feel like up and down on the side is a better motion to resist the brushing against it and changing the power state.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The direction change might be tough. How about pull to shut off?