Nice. I just printed some functional parts with Fiberon PA12-CF and it was as easy as any other filament.First time printing PA-CF and it looks pretty cool.
Some older benchies I keep to compare.
PA-CF, PLA, ABS, ASA, TPU
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
KwikFab
Well-known member
Was a bit hesitant on brand choice - I got Sunlu PA6-CF since all the PLA I use is by Sunlu and I've had nothing but great results.
The ABS, ASA, and TPU I use is all by Overture and it's never failed me either; prints extremely easy and very well.
I forget what brand PETG I tried once but it was absolutely terrible no matter what I printed or what settings I changed so I wrote it off completely. I'm betting it was a bad roll but I haven't found a reason to use PETG.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I love printing in PA6-GF from Bambu. Keep it dry (really dry!) and go slow, and the print quality is outstanding!
Some filament is just weird. I have a roll of 95A TPU that printed like ****. It was so bad that the prints were unusable. I dried it for days and couldn't figure out what the problem was. I then decided to bump the dryer temp up 5 or 10 degrees over what is typically recommended for TPU and it printed beautifully, but I have to dry it very well every time I use it. It's much more finicky in terms or drying time and temp than the other TPUs I've used.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Interesting.
I'll leave my TPU for weeks in my AMS HT (not drying or anything, I just let it sit) and it'll reach 30% humidity or so?
Still printed like normal without drying.
But yeah some filaments can be weird like PETG for me. Or at least that specific roll (maybe a bad batch?).
burger
Well-known member
I didn't even think to check Maker World. I guess Solidworks is just my default solution!
duneslider
Well-known member
I'm lazy, I always check first before I draw it myself. Really, I can never find my calipers to accurately measure stuff, so I check for drawings before I go looking for my calipers.
Every time I've downloaded an stl, I've spent more time fixing it than it would have taken to just design it from scratch
I rarely download for that reason.
burger
Well-known member
i HAVE caps lock on apparently.
What I meant to say is that I have calipers and scales at my desk and a veritable metrology department in the garage.
I have so many hours logged in Solidworks that it's probably easier than searching for something pre-made.
duneslider
Well-known member
I'm an autodesk guy but my calipers follow me around from the home office, garage office, work office. Most of what I do is bigger picture than what a caliper measures. I should have more than one set but I am not using them all that often, so I just keep dragging them around and forgetting where I last used them. Its always a pain on a Friday night when I need them for something in the garage and realize I left them at the office...
So after a few days of printing garbage stuff on the new H2D, I wouldn't say quality is better than the P1S I have. I feel like it is maybe a little faster. Two color is WAY faster. Being able to print dedicated support material and a color is awesome. If you need the larger capacity its great, which I don't think I have ever printed anything that big so for me not sure it matters. I would say that I am now very interested in the dual head X2d to have at home. I don't see myself ever needing the size of the H2D. I am still impressed with how easy to use the bambu stuff is, you unbox it, plug it in, it does its own updates and calibration, and boom you are printing.
burger
Well-known member
At my desk I just have $15 digital calipers from Harbor Freight. Accurate enough for what I'm doing. The Mitutoyos stay in a case in the garage.
That's disappointing to hear that you don't think the H2D is a large improvement over the P1S. I've been very happy with my P1S and have been contemplating a second printer to increase output. At least for me, owning a printer has become a primary way to solve problems, especially given that it's no problem for me to make models. As I write this I'm designing a planter for an indoor tomato garden. The space is tight, so being able to print something with the exact footprint that I need is huge. Anyway, getting back to the H2D. What's disappointing you? I'd really like the larger print size as in fact the planters I'm designing now should be larger, but I'm limited by my bed size. And the H2D price has come down since release, making it much more attractive. It is top of my list.
I'm not surprised that the H2D isn't a large improvement over the P1S. The areas where the H2D is better are specific capabilities rather than just being generally faster etc as we saw going from say the old Enders to a P1S. For example, one of the big upgrades of the H2D is size. It's not easy to make the printer that much bigger and still maintain the same level of chassis stiffness/squareness that is needed to print nicely. But if you don't need the larger size, all that extra engineering effort and cost is of no value to you (think about someone buying an F350 when the cargo capacity of an F150 is more than sufficient for their needs).
The same is true of the chamber heater. If you aren't running filaments that benefit from the chamber heater, well it's not an advantage and I would expect the P1S to print just as well. Of course if you are printing those materials then it's a big plus.
The dual head is another such example. If you are running just a single filament or don't mind the slower material chances of the P1S (and the poop) then the P1S might actually be a bit better. Without the weight of the dual nozzle it can actually move faster than the H2D. However, for the right applications, especially cases where you are using the dual nozzle for different material types, the H2D is going to be a big advantage. The things that make the H2D better are not that it's fundamentally better with the standard materials and prints. Rather, it can print bigger and is better able to handle less common materials that the P1S would have trouble with.
BTW, having moved from the smaller print area of my old Flashforge 5M to the Creality K1 max, I did find that for smaller prints, I think the 5M was better. I think it was easier for the system to be mechanically robust when the build size was smaller. However, I had some larger jobs that simply wouldn't fit on the smaller printer. Hence the only advantage to me was the larger size.
This is a pretty good example of how the advantages of the H2D isn't really the print quality with standard materials
Cruzan80
Well-known member
The H2D also has the "Vision" encoder plate option, so should be capable of holding tighter tolerances on parts.