The Garage Mahal!

[REFLEXX]

Scott,

You and I are of the same make and model. I've seen your cabinets and what you've done to your place, very-very nice!! I'll post up my Bridgeport "mods" one of these days. If you need a West Coast demo shop for your cabinets, I'd be happy to have them!

Sjsfire,

The pad sander was a walk behind motor with handlebars. I passed the time pretending to be Valentino Rossi. The square sheets were about 14" x 20" in size and about $6 each. They credited me any unused sheets too! Total for the rental was approx $90


more posts coming soon.....

 

[Gregdoo]

Reflexx....

Awesome job and great write-ups. I'm probably going with Epoxy Coat too. My garage is under the house, so I'm wondering how bad the smell was and how long it smelled after the application. Gotta keep the wife happy and wonder how many days I need to ship her out for! What a great space you've got there.

Also, you mention a second coat in the smaller room and a bit of touch-up in the big room with flakes, did the larger room primarily have just one coat? If you put it on thick, is a second coat needed?

 

[REFLEXX]

Greg,

what smell? Just put a fan in a window to **** the fumes out. I didn't notice any at all, till someone walked in and mentioned them. I did have all the windows open and the garage door.

The only reason I did a second coat is because the first was not thick enough. That's why I did the second coat and touch ups. I think one THICK coat is plenty good. This stuff is like milkshake thick, just don't roll it too thin.

 

[snorvet]

reflexx-

thanks for the writeup - I'll be doing mine next week. I'm going with the sander like you did, and I'll follow up with the acid-etch.

 

[IdahoJoe]

We need an update and more pictures!

 

[REFLEXX]

Sorry guys. Been busy (need to make money to pay for this little project).

Mega updates coming soon!

 

[colt zantop]

very nice shop! man I cant wait to have something like that! I WILL live in it!

 

[ChevyRestorer/C3]

Wow, will you adopt me. I'm only 54. I can still mow yards and wash your cars. You are THE MAN.

 

[REFLEXX]

Colt,

If I spend another penny, my wife said I WILL live in it!

 

[REFLEXX]

OK gents, it's time for me to catch up. This info might not be in order and is about 1 to 2 months old but it's good stuff. I've skipped a lot of detail, but this stuff is pretty starightforward as to how to I did it. If anyone's got questions about how any of this was done, just ask.

The big electrical lines were run, the main panel on the house finally got hooked up and the amazing thing is that it ALL worked on the first shot! I now have 200amps at the the house and 200 at the shop.

I bought 30+ used fixtures that came out of a military base. I'm sure they were hundereds of dollars when Uncle Sam bought them, I paid $10 each! They are electronic ballast, t8, dual light fixtures. In the big FAB room I painted 16 of them to match the Hammerite black truss.

Eight lights on one switch, eight on the other. So I light the two uppermost rows or the bottom rows. I had no clue how to arrange them perfectly square, till I remembered my trusty laser level dohicky! It casts a cross hair pattern! So I mounted it on a tripod, with the laser lines pointing up. Then I made a cardboard template of the light (with the centerlines marked). I then held the cardbard up and marked the corners. After the ceiling was marked, it just took some time to mark where the beams are and hang the lights with some screws. The light you see don't have the covers on them yet, but look dang good as is! The result is one word: DAYLIGHT! Eyes hurt with all the lights on and the shiny floor!!!

The other rooms were easier, since the ceilings were only 9 ft.

All the outlets and switches are done. Black paddle switches and receptacles, all stainless covers.

The cabinets all got installed. All these cabinets cost me $1,000. I found them on Craigslist. They were pulled out of an executive office during a remodel. I actually have about half left over for another room! The tabletops have not been made yet, I've got other priorities right now.

 

[REFLEXX]

Started in January of 2005 as an idea, finished (99%) in May 2006. I still have a lot of detail stuff to do (or have done) to finish, but I'M READY TO MOVE IN!!!

more (post dated) updates to come...

Total build time= 17 months (most nights & weekends). Cost= approx $70,000. The only "hired pro" work was the concrete slab and mud/sand/texture of walls.

I brag about how I did 75% of the work solo, but the other (very difficult) 25% was where I had the best help from friends and family. I COULD NOT have done this without them.

So here goes: Sharyn (supportive wife), Arianna (daughter), Ashley (Ari's best friend), Steve (stepdad), Mom (mom), John (best friend), pop (my dad), Curt, Daniel, Robert, Lash and my little boy, Easton!

THANK YOU ALL!!!

 

[bmwpower]

Looking awesome! Wow, 200 amps. Should be enough, eh?

 

[SuperKid]

That looks great! You're lucky to have all of those people to help you! There's nothing better than working with family and friends.

 

[Winmon]

Now THAT is a shop! You did one hell of a great job with everything. Congrats on the move in!!

 

[REFLEXX]

I got the "storage" room finished and almost all moved in, so I figure I'd share my OCD (read: ****) method for organizing everthing. I've even included a pic of what my previous place looked like while I built my shop

The room is approx 12' x 14' x 9' ceiling. I bought shelving for pennies on the dollar for a guy who installs it in the back of retail stores. It's used, but I wouldn't know unless he told me. I'm sure these guys exist in every town for others to find the same stuff. If you're in So. Cal. drop me a PM and I'll get you his info.

Here's how I got organized (after years of trying different meathods):

--Get a P-Touch Label Maker. Love this thing, almost an addiction!

--For the little stuff, I bought dozens of Sterilite brand totes from Target. They're about 8" x 17" x 6" tall. Zip ties, dremel tools, grease & gun, etc, etc...

--For the bigger stuff I bought the "red lid" totes from Home Depot. Car parts, lubes, bike parts, etc, etc...

--Nut & bolt drawers for nuts, bolts, electrical connecotrs, fuses, etc. Mounted to the ends of the shelving by first attaching a piece of wood to the "ends" (see pic)

--left room under shelving for stuff on wheels. Shop vac, O/A welding set.

--Bought a "rolling shevling unit" for use as a fabricating cart. I've got all my welding / fab gear in one place. When I need it, I roll it out. When I'm done, I roll it back into the storage room. I'll be making mods to hold some smallish gas tanks for the Tig & Mig and one extension cord for everything (like an umbillical cord) that supplies 110v, 220v, and air.

--I've got another shelving unit for when I work on a project. I put all the parts on the cart and roll it to where I need it!

--All tool boxes labled. You know, the sawzall box, the hamerdrill box, the bicycle toolbox, etc...I know that's nuts.

Keep in mind that if some of this doesn't quite look organized "enough." That's 'cuz I'm not done yet!!!

 

[SuperKid]

Not bad! I don't think you're ****. I think the key to a happy workplace is organization and cleanliness.

 

[snorvet]

great job!

I'm going to the Depot to get me some of those red lid totes

 

[AHotRod]

Beautiful and organized shop, very well done.

 

[katit]

Great shop!

Where did you get this nut and bolt organizer(last picture)?

 

[REFLEXX]

Thanks for the comments guys. I forgot to thank all the Junkies/Journalists for the help and info I have found here. This is the BEST site for those of us with workshops/garages/sheds/etc...

katit, they are regular draer bins you can find at hardware stores and even Walmart. It's deceptive because it looks so big, but it's just four of them bolted to a piece of plywood.

I prefer plastic (over steel) drawers because they don't scratch whatever's inside. I store cutting tools (drill/endmills) and they are well protected.

The best I've ever found are made by Acro-Mills:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=25398&product_id=19556

 

[SCOOTER]

Reflex..just seeing your shop makes me wanna move back down (I moved here from Corona) and just hang out with you in the shop...hahhahahahaha....Nice job

 

[REFLEXX]

Scooter,

If the invasion continues and the politics of the PRC (Peoples Republic of California) get any worse, I might be joining YOU!

I told my wife that if our bank account hits $1,000,000 we're moving. The only problem is we're a $1,000,000 short of that goal!

 

[SCOOTER]

Scooter,

If the invasion continues and the politics of the PRC (Peoples Republic of California) get any worse, I might be joining YOU!

I told my wife that if our bank account hits $1,000,000 we're moving. The only problem is we're a $1,000,000 short of that goal!

Come on up ..Heck it will give the natives one more of us to HATE.....

 

[katit]

The best I've ever found are made by Acro-Mills:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pr...SPlastic&category_name=25398&product_id=19556

Since you have them - you may help me with those.
On this chart
http://www.usplastic.com/pdfdatafiles/drawings/55330chart.pdf

They show dimensions, where 26, 44 and 64 have same overall dimensions. Looking at Drawer details it just doesn't add up..

I wanted to get a mix of different boxes, but they all need to be same height as I have perfect strip below cabinets.

I wanted to put 4 of them side by side to make 80x16 strip. But since dimensions misleading I can't figure out what I can get...

 

[REFLEXX]

Katit,

The pics are a different size, but the drawers are identical in outside dimensions!

Does that make sense?

 

[katit]

Thanks, I figured it all out.

I also found some info:
http://www.lkgoodwin.com/more_info/small_parts_storage_cabinets/small_parts_storage_cabinets.shtml

It seems that 44, 64 and 24 drawer cabinets are the same size.
Now, which drawers you use most efficient?

In my case - it will be nothing special. Some around a house hardware and small stuff that I always wanted organised. I just wonder if I should go with all 64's or have like 2 44's and 2 64's..

 

[REFLEXX]

mix them up!

1x64
2x44
1x24

IMHO

 

[REFLEXX]

UPDATE TIME!!!

I've been neglecting my updates, so I'm making a concerted effort to catch up!

But I'm glad to say that (short of a few decorations and air lines) the inside is completed!!!

This was a few months back, and the memories are great because moving the machines in was an adventure in itself! I had the mover COME OVER and see what was involved in getting the machines into place. We agreed on the set price and planned the date. I thought his price was kinda low, it was actually less than half of ANYONE else. I was't going to complain, these guys are a reputable company.

I will not bore anyone with pic of the machines being loaded, or me moving any other stuff in. But here is the delivery and placement of the big stuff! They started at 8:00am , and were non finished untill 9:30pm. These poor guys worked thier asses off! Not to mention that they got stuck on my (inclined & dirt) road TWICE! That added about 3 hours to thier adventure.

As always, I'll share what I learned to perhaps spare others time, effort and money.

#1 get quotes from movers and have them come out to give you a firm price. I paid $2000, should have been $4,000+ after they were done.

#2 If you've got dirt, get them to bring steel plates. Forklifts and dirt don't mix. Those steel plates helped them get thier own trucks unstuck (TWICE).

#3 They used custom "dollies" for the machines. They are also called roller skates. Make sure they have plastic wheels or kiss your nice epoxy floor goodby! All the marks they left just wiped right off, even after the 8,000 lb machine!

#4 Measure the location of everything and have it marked with tape. Last minute guessing *****.

#5 make your openings big enough to fit your biggest piece (machine or RV or truck). I did and had about 6" per side to spare!

I'll have more pics later. For those that don't know what these are. It's a lathe, a knee (bridgeport) mill and the big white box is a CNC milling machine.

 

[Der Bugmeister]

Very nice! When can I move in?

 

[REFLEXX]

Here are pics of the machine in place and the "CNC" room finished.

The knee mill is a variable frequency drive 5hp machine, with many little "hot rod" mods. Because I have never owned anything that I couldn't improve. It's got mini pool balls on all the handles/levers, diamondplate covers on all openings, custom way covers, two worklights, removed all logos, custom table covers, power feed, .0002" 3 axis DRO's and stickers (gotta have the stickers!)

The CNC is a 1995 Cincinatti Arrow 500, a sweet machine that I bought for "pennies on the dollar" 20" x 20" x 20" travels, 15hp motor and accurate as hell. I have to have it on a phase converter, so I bought a American Rotary 30hp unit. The only problem is when I turn it on, the lights dim in my neighborhood. The electric company is coming to install a MUCH larger transformer on our pole (37KVA vs. the 15 that is there) and to replace the wires coming to our house. Edison is doing this for FREE. God bless them!

It's soooo nice to have all my tools and equipment EXACTLY where I want it. I used to waste hours of time just looking for the simplest things. Now I'm like a high speed surgeon with all the implements at the ready.

So at this point the CNC room is 90% done....

 

[bmwpower]

Okay, now that you have everything in place - time to make me a set of custom wheels on that milling machine.

Looks awesome.

 

[REFLEXX]

Bmwpower, I could, but they would cost a mint. The guys that make rims, make 1,000 at a time. Kind of making a kit car, vs. buying a car.

 

[REFLEXX]

OK, another update.

The big CNC machine is now in place and I have a 9ft x 9ft opening between the CNC room and the FAB room. I want to keep the dust and fumes out of the CNC room, and to keep noise separated. I also have each room on it's own A/C system, so I don't want to cool the entire place all the time.

So I had to seal the opening. But I didn't want to make a permanent "false wall" so I decided on a BIG HONKIN DOOR!

A roll up would be ugly, an accordion door would not open enough and to buy a custom door this size would be way too expensive. So I made one...

MATERIALS:

1. steel studs (26ga) 7pcs
2. steel studs 2pc for top and bottom (22 ga)
2. small sheetmetal screws 6 x 3/4"
3. mod pan head screws
3. 1/8" thick LAUAN(SP?) thin plywood panels
4. spackle/patch paste
5. 3 large (normal) door hinges.
6. 3 castor wheels (the non rotating type)
7. plumbers tape (metal perforated tape)
8. small gate latch
9. foam weatherstriping
10. paint & matching baseboard trim
11. one wood 2x4
12. "gold" drywall/deck screws


CONSTRUCTION:

1. On the floor, I made the frame out of the steel studs and checked for squareness. screwed it together with the mod pan head screws. Then I added the plumbers tape to keep the assembly square while I put it in place. The steel studs are ver flimsy at this point (on the floor)

2. I then put the wood 2x4 inside the steel stud where the hinges will attach. This is just to make sure the hinges don't pull out of the steel studs and to be more ridgid.

3. Next, I measured out and screwed on the hinges using the gold screws. I also used some left over steel stud material to make a place for the support wheels to mount. There is one wheel at the bottom of the door, opposite of the hinges and one in the middle/bottom of the door. I cut a small opening in the bottom of the bottom stud for the wheel to stick out about 1/2"

4. With some help, I positioned the door in the opeining and screwed on the hinges. So now I had a (very flimsy) frame in place that I could open and close. I also found out that my "door" is much more square than my "opening" I had to shim the hinges a bit to make everything open and fit nicely.

5. I then attached all the paneling using the small sheetmetal screws. I chose the thin paneling because of its light weight. The screws did a nice job of countersinking themselves, so the panels stayed smooth. I also stuffed insulation between the panels for noise and temp control. The paneling made the door VERY ridgid, it now felt like a real door!

6. I then did a few coats of spackle and sanding to smooth things out. Followed up by foam weatherstrip along the top and sides to make up for any gaps.

7. The I painted both sides with 3 coats of the same stuff I used on the walls "Behr pure premium #2-3050 - ultra white" which is really good stuff. I needed three coats to hide the grain of the plywood.

8. I added the baseboard trim/moulding. it matches the rest of the shop and acts like a seal for the bottom of the door.

Now all that's left is the gray paint and black strip to match the walls!

It works like a charm. Now that I'm done with this really nice door, I hope I don't have to use it for at least 5 to 10 years!!!

 

[W-Cummins]

So I want to know what the city, county, neighbors think about you running a machine shop out of your garage

Glad to hear the convertor worked out ok I don't remember sugesting a 30hp though!

William.....

 

[REFLEXX]

William,

The VERY insulated walls keep everyone happy. The CNC at full tilt cannot be heard outside.

Beside, most of my neighbors love the fact that they have a neighbor that can fix just about anything and county doesn't care about what "hobbies" I have. I'm zone agricultural, so I need tools to fix my "agricultural machinery"

 

[REFLEXX]

Here the most important piece of my garage puzzle, and I finally got to "install" it. I call it icing on the cake.

A little background:
My grandfather (like me) was born in the Ukraine. Just imagine the village in "Fiddler On The Roof." He spent most of his life in the Soviet Union and for over 40 years he collected lapel pins. You know, the kind you put on your jacket or uniform. In Russia it was a big deal, much like coin or stamp collecting was here.

Well, he's got over a thousand pins on all subjects: from the space programs, to monuments, olympics, motorcycles, legends, cities, etc...They have been in a box since 1977. That's when we immigrated (legally!) to the USA. Nobody has even looked at them, but I've always know that they are there. I asked if I could have them, and he happily handed them over. They are not worth very much (just check e-bay). But to me, they are the closest thing to a family treasure.

My "deda" is in ill health and I wanted to give him some "medicine." I decided to do something special with the pins. I wanted to hang a huge Soviet flag and attach all the pins, but the weight would be too much and I didn't want a big communist banner on my wall. The biggest flag in my shop will be the Stars and Stripes!

So I did the next best thing. I bought a 8 x 5 foot red carpet from the www.redcarpetstore.com (of all places!) and had it trimmed with yellow/gold.

I then put grommets along the top and bottom edge at every 12 inches and anchored it to the wall. My daughters then spent a few weeks, pinning them all up. We managed to attach about 80% of them.

You should have seen my grandfather when he first walked in! He was BEAMING with happiness and bragged to all his friends for days!!!

Mission accomplished!

 

[Der Bugmeister]

Heartwarming piece of family history...thanks for sharing.

 

[Craig Balzer]

REFLEXX

As you were only 7 or 8 when you crossed the big pond, I am going to assume what Russian you learned as a kid is long gone -- unless deda uses the mother tongue at home and reinforces your memory.

What I am getting at is while YOU may think that none of the pins have meaning, maybe deda has an attachment to them. Some may be from a special event or invoke memories of a particular time or set of friends. Since he's gettin' on in age, NOW is the time to ask him to comment about 3 to 5 pins each visit. Write down what he says.

When my grandparents died, I was part of the clean up crew. I can't count the number of O-L-D photos we came across that were not dated, no names written on the back much less dates and local of the photo. What a loss of family history; all those photos ended up in the trash. They meant something to someone or they wouldn't have been saved all those years. Don't let the same thing happen to you.

And some of those pins MAY be worth something. A Sergeant Major (SGM) I knew when I was stationed in Skopje, Macedonia took 50 of his troops to Sophia Bulgaria for a weekend break from the mission. As soon as the bus stopped, the young soldiers headed for the bars and girls – well DUH. He noticed a small flea market of sorts set up in the town square. He wandered around and spotted an old guy with what amounted to a card table set up in front of him. He had a bunch of old WWII war memorabilia laid out. Among the stuff, the SGM spotted six pins of particular note. They were SS pins: 2 were gold, 3 silver and a bronze. They were issued in by Hitler’s team in recognition of good deeds. When asked for a price the old said $10 for the gold, $7 and 5 for the others. The SGM said “How about $100 for the entire display.” He later was able to sell a complete set (gold/silver/bronze) for $2,000. Ya never know.

Craig

 

[wilbilt]

I can also recommend trying to gain as much history as possible while those that know it are still living.

My grandfather was born in the Ukraine in 1900. His grandfather had come from Germany under uncertain circumstances sometime before.

My grandfather arrived at Ellis Island in December of 1909, along with his mother and siblings. His father (my GGF) had arrived a year or two earlier, but I cannot find any documents to substantiate that.

At any rate, my GGF returned to Russia shortly before the revolution and was not seen here again. My grandfather spent many years looking for him, and supposedly found out what had become of his father. My grandfather died in 1968, but my grandmother supposedly knew the whole story.

She never wanted to talk about it, but my uncle was able to get her to comment on some old photos while videotaping the process (an excellent idea). This shed some light on many of the questions we have, but there are still many more questions. She passed away about 18 months ago, and took the rest of the history with her.

The communists destroyed mountains of documents, and with them, many personal histories.

As far as the pin collection goes, I'd bet many of them have a special meaning, even if it is only the recollection of how, when and where it was acquired. This information is priceless.

Will

 

[REFLEXX]

Gents,

I have my grandparents history written down and have many photos labled. I took them on vacation to Florida a few years ago and we sat every night to write down what they went through. I guarantee tears after reading it! You cannot imagine the HELL they went through and they both are the kindest and sweetest people you will ever meet. I am who I am because of them. My grandmother lost ALL her family to the Nazis, then became a decorated soldier / nurse. My Deda, saved countless lives because he was in charge of a bread-rationing program and cheated the system to feed as many families as he could. If he was caught by the communists doing this, you can imagine what would happen to a Jew.

I discussed the pins at length with my deda, they were a regular collection. Not a "as I traveled" type collection, but he loves seeing it displayed. Regardless of thier worth, they will never be for sale! To me they are priceless.

On the other hand, my Baba (grandmother) has a chest full of ribbons and medals. THOSE have a history I will write down soon!

Yes, I was only seven when we came to the USA and I am still 95% fluent. Usually a child that young looses thier native language, but I kept mine for some reason. Speaking to parents and grandparents helped.

Four years ago I found the real reason my Russian stayed with me. We (wife and I) went to Kazakhstan (former Russian republic) to adopt our two kids!

I'm not a very religious guy, but God bless my grandparents, parents and the USA! We rarely pause and think about just how good we have it.

OK, back to garage stuff....